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CRANO COIVII^ANDERY, 

AND APPENDAI 

OT^ THE ST.A.TE OI^ 

uTo tl)e Kigljt (Eminent ©ranb Commanber, 

(Dffuers anh Sir Knii 

€ ^ 3g $ t 

// having come to my knowledge^ by petition duly signed\^directei 
that Allegheny Gommandery, No. 35, Knights Templai-, mi^er oim.^ 
the honor of the Orders of Knighthood., and aiding the cause of. 

2 Ijcrebij (Svant i|pcvmi50ion?7?ito^.>szvtli^ 

to appear in public in Full Temi^lar Unieobm, or FATiGU^'rJ 
o-^TO ESCORT THE MEMBERS OF TM 

and to leave this State for a blending of Knightly sentiments andjeMo^tt)^ 
to present and make known to our Illustrious Frater, Right E)ni 
of the State of Xew Yoi^k, and other Illustrious Compajiioji^SW 
the friendly and Knightly regards and good intent of the Pennsylvania 
^Ttllvtllwl SyOi^ may forever exist betiveen us, -and that ^tviCt 4tlU 

^UU lUVtl)£r, our Sir Knights comprising said Command 
Templar in your jurisdiction. 

&W)t\\ UUbCV out \)(!i\\^^ as loitness our signature, and 

attested by the signature of our Grand Recorder, in the City of Meadville, > 

estubUslnnent of the order of Knighthood in Pennsylvania. 

By order of 







INIICHTS TEMPLAR 

)RDERS, 

3sr3Nrs'S"aLiTr-.ftuisri-A.. 



of tl)c (Bxaixb €ommaui^£i:2 of ^XTeu) Sork, 

$ 

'SI JR/Bd/MT EMINENT GRAND COMMANDER of this jurisdiction^ 
^UI'M-y/^mplate visiting your jurisdiction, and being desirous of promoting 




Mp and pumauitg: 




.Cmnmmider, Officers and Sir Knights of Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, 
mplar, as they may wish, on July 1,2, 3 & 4, A. 0. 780, A. D. 1878, 
\o EUROPE TO NEW YORK CTTY,^-> — 
^/;e ~^:^nic//iis Templar of your jurisdiction, and with Knightly courtesy 
ander of the Grand Commandery of the Knights Templar 
>osing the Grand Commandery of the State of Neio York, 
^^^i'erhplar for your continued prosperity and well being, trusting that 
■ttittj may ever prevail throughout the world, in this (El^rlstian (^X^tX, 
I, are hereby commended to your Knightly consideration, and to all Knights 

e seal of the Grand Commandery of Knights Templar of Pennsylvania, and 
\s 27th day of June, A. D. 1878, A. 0. 780. Being the 80th year of the 



<3 Grand Commander. 





rand Recorder. 



CRUSADING 



Knights Templar, 



UNDER THE BANNERS 



Jvlffsffiii ®oiiiiiiii«3rr|, ^o. S5, 



ALLEGHENY CITY, PA 



DURING 1878. 



r 

BY DAVID ^V. SEMPLE, 






PITTSBURGH: 

PUBLISHED BY WM. P. BENNETT, 94 FIFTH AVENUE. 
1879- 



COPYRIGHTED, ACCOUDING TO LAW, BV 

DAVID W. SEMPLE and WILLIAM V. BENNETT, 

IN THE OFFICE OF THE LIBRARIAN OF CONGRESS. 



[the library I 

I OF C ONGR ESS I 
I WASHINGTON 



0'^ 
:^1 



Wo 

THE "CRUSADERS" of 



Aiiefgke'hir ^oMM^hde^^p-, Mo. SS, 






ALLEGHENY CITY, PENNSYL VANIA, 



THIS VOLUME IS 



RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED. 



-te^i 



.CONTENTS.. 



-^^s^--- 



LETTER OF CREDENCE, Frontispiece 

PREFACE, 5 

ORGANIZATION OF, AND PREPARATION 

FOR, THE CRUSADE, 7 

INTRODUCTION— 

Introduction of Author and " Quartette." — The Pilgrims. 
— Preparing to Leave. — The Excursion to New York. 29 

TETTER NUMBER ONE— 

The Pilgrims at Sea. — Celebration of Our Glorious Day 
of Independence. — Notorious Interruption of Religious 
Services. — A Truly Loving Couple. — Nine Days in a 
World of Our Own 47 

LETTER NUMBER TWO— 

The Pilgrims Landed at Queenstown. — Their First Trouble 
on Ireland's Green Sod. — Attempts at Smuggling. — 
Reception in Cork. — In Trouble Again in a Barber 
Shop. — A Row with a Hotel Proprietor. — Blarney Castle. 
— Shandon Church. — Incidents by the Way, 72 

LETTER NUMBER THREE— 

The Pilgrims at Killaniey. — One of the Gems of Irish 
Scenery.— Amusing Scenes in Genuine Irish Life. — A 
Pleasant Ride through the Gap of Dunloe, and on the 
Lakes. — Incidents by the Way, 105 



CONTKNTS. 



LKITKR NUMBKR FOUR— 

Killarney to lJul)lin. — Kui^^lus Teiiiplar transiiosed into 
Knights of Submission. — Full Account of the Imjires- 
sive Ceremonies of Initiation, as well as the (irand 
Ennobling Principles of the Order. — In Dublin. — Inci- 
dents by the Way, 139 

i,i:tter number five— 

Dublin to Enniskillen. — Londonderry. — The Giant's 
Causeway, and Belfast. — Riding on an Irish Locomo- 
tive. — A Grand Day spent with a Glorious People. — 
A Gala Day with True Friends, and the Ladies of 
Enniskillen.--lncidents by the Way, 166 

LETTER NUMBER SIX— 

Up the River Clyde. — In and Around (Glasgow. — The 
Grand Reception by St. Mungo Encampment, and others. 
— Purchase of a Clothing House. — Trouble \\ ith Gents' 
Furnishing Goods. — A Day spent with Friends. — Se]3- 
aration ot " Carlisle " from the remainder of the 
"Quartette." — Arrival in Edinburgh.. — Incidents by the 
Way, .... 1 207 

LETTER NUMBER SIX— Continued— 

Edinburgh. — Presentation of Bills to the Trio of the 
" Quartette." — Reception and Banquet by the Provin- 
cial Grand Lodge. — Melrose and Abboltsford. — Re- 
cherche Banqiret at Leeds. — To London. — The Doctor 
and " Carlisle,'" now Two Poor and Weary Pilgrims, 
Traveling Alone. — Incidents by the Way, 238 

LETTER NUMBER SEVEN— 

A Saturday Night's Ride to Paris. — The Two Pilgrims 
in Paris. — Meeting of Friends in Cologne. — Accident 
on the Rhine. — Bingen. — Mayence. — Heidleberg. — 
Bale. — Lake Lucerne. — Brunig Pass and Brienz Valley. 
— Interlakcn. — Berne. — INIarligny to Chamouny. — Over 
the 'left' Xoirc. — Geneva. — To London. — Incidents by 
Way, 263 



CONTKXTS. 

I.KTTER NUMlSEll EIGHT— 

London and its Siy;hts. — The Unfortunate Loss of a Watch. 
— Pilgrims Turn their weary feet Homewards. — " Car- 
lisle " and the Doctor badly used up on the Homeward 
Voyage. — -Particularly "Carlisle." — Arrival Home. — 
Incidents by the Way, 314 

LETTER NUMBER NINE— 

E.xtracts from Letter Written by the Captain-tieneral, 
W. C. INIoreland, Esc[., while doing the Italian Section, 
with part of the Crusaders. — Description of Scenery 
and Art, 341 

CONCLUSION, 349 

IN MEMORIAM, 367 



<s^Pi^e'f^^e\%^ 



PERHAPS in no country, where the rites and ceremonies of that 
ancient and honorable institution known to the world as 
Freemasonry are observed, is there any society, whether public 
or secret, which carries upon her banners a higher prestige or a more 
honorable name, than does the Commandery of Knights Templar sta- 
tioned in Allegheny City, Pa., known as Allegheny Commandery, 
No. 35. 

From the outer world, as well as within the broad fold of Tem- 
plarism, come most gratifying words of commendation as to her com- 
position, her character, and her tacit following of the signs she bears 
upon her banners and upon her arms. 

Knowing full well the trust graciously bestowed would be care- 
fully guarded and preserved, permission of the Grand Commandery of 
our grand Old Keystone State was granted to Allegheny Commandery 
to pay a fraternal visit to fraters of our mother country, and we trust 
egotism may not be laid at our door, when we make the, assertion that 
the Grand Cominandery can have no regret at the confidence reposed, 
and No. 35 of her subordinate Commanderies, has yet, for the first 
time, either at home or abroad, to bring to her fair name a single 
tinge of color or shame. 

Though a series of correspondence has followed the " Second 
European Crusade of Allegheny Commandery," that could but be 
done in a condensed form and limited manner, and that the Second 
Pilgrimage may be more conveniently followed, we endeavor to place 
before our readers in these pages, as accurate an account as possible 



of the Crusade, and laying aside the dull, monotonous method usually 
pursued in " Travels Abroad," we prefer giving the actual daily occur- 
rances met with by us all, rather than the prosy and wearisome des- 
criptions of Castles, centuries old ; and ivy-covered stones, said to be 
started 2000 years B. C, and which have been written up and described 
limes without nunil^er and without end. 

If we can in your hands spend an hour pleasantly with you, and if 
we can take you with us from city to city, and country to countr}', our 
aim is accomplished, and that we may endeavor to do so in a manner 
more simple than a continuous chapter of incidents, we care rather to 
talk with our reader m the shape of correspondence. 

THE AUTHOR. 







I^HE first " Crusade " by any Masonic body in mod- 
ern days, was made during 1871, by Allegheny 
CoMMANDERY, Knights Templar, wlien fort3^-one Sir 
Kniglits left friends and liome, not on a crusade of warfare 
against the blindness and superstitions of any clan or re- 
ligious sect ; not upon the test of steel against steel, valoi" 
against valor, arm against arm ; but upon the most sub- 
lime pilgrimage man can ever undertake, that of carrying 
" Peace and Good Will to Man," of laying aside the 
sword ; and the fraters of the New World grasping with 
" fraternal good will and brotherly love," the hands of 
the fraters of the Old. 

As those forty-one Sir Knights bade adieu to Alle- 
gheny Citj^ ; as thej^ steamed down the bay towards the 
broad Atlantic ; as they reached the farther shore, and 
Great Britain's Templars received, with open arms, those 
of America, how the world looked on ! And truly, never 



S Cktsadi-; to EuRori': 

was a better example given to the gaze of tlie eager eyes 
which watched, than of man meeting man, friend meeting- 
friend, brotlier meeting })rotherwith hand fnll of welcome 
in its fraternal grasp, and heart full of love in its every 
pulsation. 

With each succeeding year was the Commandery in- 
vited and importuned to pay a second visit to Europe, 
and accordingly a resolution was offered that Allegheny 
Commander}^ make a Second PJuropean Pilgrimage, which 
was unanimousl}^ passed, and arrangements were at once 
commenced that placed the matter in definite shape to 
carry out this resolution. A committee being dul}'- ap- 
pointed and negotiations at once entered into with E. M. 
Jenkins, Esq., a member of Allegheny- Commandery, by 
the way, and a person widel}^ and favorably known to 
the traveling public of the United States, in fact of the 
world. 

That the Committee labored industriously at their 
work, is shown more full^^ in the following circular, issued 
sixty days after the offering of the resolution in the Com- 
mandery : 



OK Allegheny Commandery. 




Geo. C. Johnstone, Re 



A Uegh eny Com ni a. n dery, 

No. 35, 
KNIGHTS TEMPLAR. 

OFFICE OF THE RECORDER, 

Allegheny, Pa., August 20th, iSyj. 



Dear Sir Knight : 

This Commandery, which made a highly 

successful tour during the Summer of 1 871, propose, at the earnest 

solicitation of a number of prominent Sir Knights, to make, during 

1878, a 

SECOND PILGRIMAGE TO EUROPE. 

To that end a resolution was offered and inianimously adopted at 
the June conclave, and for the purpose of making all necessary arrange- 
ments, a Committee consisting of the following Sir Knights was ap- 
pointed, viz : 

Sirs B. F. Horner, 

P. Em. C. William H. Slack, 
Edward Coates, 
P. Em. C. Joseph H. Elton, and 
^ Geo. C. Johnstone. 

The Committee have been occupied in the performance of this 
duty, for several weeks past. They have consulted the wishes of those 
who have already decided to accompany the Commandery, among 
them several who made the first pilgrimage in 1871. They have been 
in written and personal communication with Sir E. M. Jenkins, a mem- 
ber of the Commandery, but now a resident of New York, whose ex- 
perience and judgment will be recognized, and as a result announce 
the following: 

The Commandery will take its departure from New York the last 
week in June or the first week in July, 1878, — the exact date to be 
hereafter announced. One of the best steamers of a first class line,- 
probably a Cunarder, will be selected for their accommodation. The 
Commandery w ill land at Queenstown, the following being the adopted 



Crusade to Euroi'k 



ROUTE: 

( hieen.siown to Cork; Blarney Castle ; Mallow; Killarney; Gap 
of Dunloe; Lakes of Killarney; Dublin; Drogheda; Dundalk; En- 
niskillen, Londonderry; Port Rush; Giant's Causeway; Belfast; Glas- 
gow; Loch Lomond; Loch Kathrine; Frossachs; Stirling; Edinburgh 
Melrose; Abbottsford ; Carlisle; Leeds; Sheffield; Liecester; Bedford 
London; Flushing; Antwerp; Brussells; Rotterdam; Amsterdam 
Utrecht; Cologne; the Rhine, by day steamer; Wiesbaden; Frank- 
fort-oii-the-Main; Darmstadt; Heidleburg ; Baden-Baden; Stras- 
burg ; the Black Forest ; Schaff-hausen ; Zurich ; Lucerne ; the 
Rhigi ; Lake Lucerne ; Alpnacht ; Brunig Pass ; Brientz ; Giesbach ; 
Illuminated Waterfall; Literlacken; Berne; Lausanne; Lake Leman ; 
Bouveret; Martigny ; TeteNoir; Chamouix ; Geneva; Macon; Di- 
jon; Fontainbleau ; Paris; Rouen; Dieppe; Newhaven ; Brighton; 
London; Oxford; Warwick; Stratford-on-Avon, Chester; Liverpool; 
New York. Time occupied about seventy-five days, allowing a week 
each in London and Paris, and an amply sufficient time at each other 
place. 

THE ENTIRE COST WILL BE $300,00 GOLD, EACH. 

This will include Ocean Passage, Rail Road, Steamboat and Dil- 
igence Travel, Hotel Accommodation at each city, — all first class. It 
will also include Omnibuses for transfer between Hotel and Rail 
Road Stations; Jaunting Cars to Blarney Castle and Giant's Cause- 
way ; Boats and Ponies at Killarney ; Wagonettes at Melrose for Ab- 
bottsford. Meals and accommodations to be in accordance with the 
custom of each country visited, viz. : In Ireland, Scotland and Eng- 
land, Meat Breakfast, Table D'Hote Dinner, Bedroom, Lights and 
Attendance. One hundred pounds baggage allowed free in Great 
Britain and Ireland ; sixty-six pounds on the Continent. Porterage 
is also included, and the service of a competent Conductor, who will 
accompany the party all through the tour, who will act as Guide and 
Interpreter, and also as Superintendent of Traveling Arrangements, 
and who will pay all bills for sight seeing, who Vvill assist in the for- 
mation of small Carriage Parties, and engage such local guides at 
points needed, as the memljers of the party may wish, the expense of 
which will be borne Ly those requiring them, as the sum quoted does 
not include carriage hire, or fees for sight seeing, and such small ex- 
penses as cannot be coiitrolled by the conductor. 



OF Allegheny Commanufry. 



Some of the members of the Commandery desire to have the com- 
pany of ladies. It is therefore determined that those who wish may 
be accompanied by their wives. The accommodation on the Steamers 
selected will be outside rooms, three j^ersons in each room ; or hiside 
rooms, two persons in each room. An Outside room can be given to 
two persons, u] on payment of ^36.00 in gold, each, which will in- 
clude ocean passage both ways. 

A contract with E. M. Jenkins has been made to the above effect. 
It is expected that Sir Knight Jenkins will accompany the Command- 
ery, and take charge of the traveling arrangements. 

The Committee, in determining the above route, have been gov- 
erned to some extent by the experiences obtained on ihejirst pilgrim- 
age of Allegheny Commandery in 1871. They have stricken from the 
programme all the unnecessary features of the former pilgrimage, while 
retaining those the most pleasant. Having a vivid recollection of the 
heat, dust and fleas of Italy, they have determined to omit that country 
this year, though a route will be laid out and a plan arranged for 
those who desire to take it. The route, as adopted, though very sim- 
ilar to that taken in 1871, is still quite different. 

The Grand Commandery of Pennsylvania have already granted 
permission to Allegheny Commandery to make this Second Pilgrimage, 
and previous to their departure will issue a Letter of Credence, as the 
following extract from the minutes of said Grand Commandery attest : 

Whereas, In the year 1870, this Grand Commandery granted 
permission to Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, to travel abroad and 
visit Commanderies in Europe, and a Letter of Credence was issued 
for that purpose by the Grand Commandery of Pennsylvania ; the Sir 
Knights were received with credit, honor, and great distinction through- 
out Great Britain or wherever this Letter of Credence was presented. 
It is well known that the Pilgrims from America conducted themselves 
while abroad with honor and dignity, which reflected credit upon 
Templar Masonry in America : Therefore, 

Resolved, That this Grand Commandery grant permission to Alle- 
gheny Commandery, No. 35, to make a Second Crusade to Europe, 
for the purpose of visiting the Exposition in Paris, next year, and to 
visit Commanderies in Great Britain, and that a Letter of Credence be 
issued similar to the one issued in 1870. 

While the Commandery will keep its organization intact, during 
its absence, still it is not the intention of the Eminent Commander to 



Crusade to Euroi'k 



make "hard and fast" rules, which will interfere with the pleasure of 
the members. Certain proper orders will be issued for the govern- 
ment of those participating, which it is believed will be ol>served with- 
out inconvenience to anyone, the principal being to remind each mem- 
ber lie is a Knight Templar, and a Member of Allegheny Cominandery. 
Should any fail to remember this, he will have refunded to him the 
balance of his unexpended fare, less lo per cent., and told to depart 
in peace. 

While the oljjecl of this pilgrimage is pleasure, sight-seeing and 
rela.xation from business, still the Commandery expects to meet many 
of its fraters, some of whom they had the gratification of meeting in 
187 1, and they hope to be prepai^ed to return some of the compliments 
received during that year. 

Each Sir Knight will be required to provide himself with the uni- 
form and Complete e(|uipmcnts known as " Crusader's Uniform," 
Allegheny Commandery ; particulars can be obtained by addressing the 
Recorder. 

A limited number of Knights Templar from other Commanderies, 
accompanied, if they visit, by their wives, will be cordially and heart- 
ily welcomed to join this pilgrimage. The names of such Sir Knights 
will be duly presented to Allegheny Commandery, for Honorary 
Membership. Vou are invited to make one of the number. 

It is expected that those who decide to go will pay lo Sir Hon. 
Alfred Slack, Treasurer of Allegheny Commandery, a deposit of 
One Hundred Dollars, previous to January ist, 1878, the money thus 
deposited being used to secure steamship accommodations. This de- 
posit is not necessarily to be forfeited, in case of withdrawal, as no diffi- 
culty is apprehended in finding a suljstitute. The balance of the 
amount due will be required to be paid thirty days before departure. 
Any further information desired will be given by addressing the under- 
signed. 

GEORGE C. JOHNSTONE, 

Recordei-. 

The above circular being mailed to a number of Sir 
Knights, members of a limited number of Commanderies, 
necessarily resulted in quite a heavy work in the line of 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 



correspondence; and right here we may l)e permitted to 
add, by wa}^ of parenthesis, not only as an individual 
member of Allegheny Commandery, but on behalf of that 
body as a whole, that we take it as an opportune moment 
to congratulate Allegheny Commandery upon her selec- 
tion of a Sir Knight to fill one of her most responsible 
positions, requiring judgment, care and prudence, that 
of Recorder, so efficiently and ably filled by Sir Knight 
Geo. C. Johnstone, a worthy gentleman, a capable officer, 
and an honorable Knight of the Temple. 

Some little conception may be formed of the work 
necessary to be performed, incidental to moving a Com- 
mandery on such a pilgrimage, when we name but a few 
of the cities from which were received letters of inquiry 
in answer to the foregoing circular, and the amount of 
correspondence occurring in replying to all sorts of ques- 
tions made concerning the tour. 

Letters came from Rochester, Elmira, Ithica, Syra- 
cuse, Albany'- and New York City, N. Y. ; Lancaster, 
Emilie, Philadelphia, Coatesville, Shippensburg, Sharon, 
Altoona, Greensburg, Bellefonte, Columbia, Harrisburg, 
Scranton, Williamsport, and Clearfield, Pa. ; Yersailles, 
Richmond, Paris, Cjnithia, Ky. ; Winooski, Burlington, 
Yt. ; Cincinnati, Canton, Cleveland, Chillicothe, Hamil- 
ton, Dayton, 0. ; Staunton, Wheeling, Halltown, W. Ya. ; 
Davenport, Dubuque, Keokuk, Burlington, Muscatine, 
Iowa; Dover, Del.; Rock Island, Chicago, Ills.; West 
Joplin, St. Joseph, St. Louis, Mo. ; Elkhart, Logansport, 



14 Crusadk id Kuroi'e 

Evansville, South Bend, Ind. ; Black Hawk, Denver, Col. ; 
Georgetown, Washington, D. C. ; Kansas Citj', Kan. ; 
Little Rock, Ark. ; San Francisco, Cal. ; Savannah, Ga. ; 
etc., etc. Of course from so many varied sources, as to 
any business house, the letters seeking information Avould 
be concise, '' boiled down " and to the point ; while others 
would begin witli their " sit me down with pen in hand, 
etc.," giving the pedigree of themselves, " their sisters, 
their cousins, and their aunts," and man}' were quite a 
fund of amusement. 

One letter from a very nice, rather aged gentleman, 
(now deceased, poor fellow !) contained an obituary no- 
tice of his wife, written by himself, her age at death, etc.; 
as well as a complete histor}^ of himself, his age, his 
height, his weight, how man^^ children, their ages, sexes 
and general physical make up. 

However the requisite number was speedily attained 
to make the pilgrimage, and the following supplementary- 
circular was issued : 

SECOND PILGRIMAGE TO EUROPE. 

The Eminent Commander desires to give the Sir Knights 
fur'j'her information on the subject: 

Since the issue of the Circular from the Recorder's Office, under 
date of August 20, 1877, so many appHcations have been received for 
permission to join, both by our own membership and those of other 
jurisdictions, that the Second Pilgrimage is now a fixed fact. 

The following arrangements have now been completed : The 
Commandery will leave Pittsburgh on Monday Evening, July 1st, next, 
for New York, and will sail by a Cunard Steamer, on Wednesday, July 
3d, landing at Queenstown in Ireland. The Route in Europe is as 
follows : 



OK Allegheny Commander v. 15 



ROUTE: 

Queenstown to Cork ; Blaniejj Castle ; Mallow; Killarney; Gap 
of Dunloe; Lakes of Killarney; Dublin; Drogheda; Dundalk; En- 
niskillen; Londonderry; Port Rush; Giant's Causeway; Belfast; Glas- 
gow; Loch Lomond; Loch Kathrine; Trossachs, Stirling; Edinburgh 
Melrose; Abbottsford; Carlisle; Leeds; Sheffield; Liecester; Bedford 
London, Flushing; Antwerp; Brussells; Rotterdam; Amsterdam 
Utrecht; Cologne; the Rhine by day Steamer; Wiesbaden; Frank- 
fort-on-the-Main; Darmstadt; Heidelberg; Baden-Baden; Strasburg; 
the Black Forest; Schaff-hausen; Zurich; Lucerne; the Rhigi; Lake 
Lucerne; Alpnacht; the Brunig Pass; Brientz; Giesbach; Illumi- 
ated Waterfalls; Interlacken; Berne; Lausanne; Lake Leman; 
Bouveret; Martigny; Tete Noir ; Chamouix; Geneva; Macon; Dijon; 
Fontainbleau ; Paris; Rouen; Dieppe; Newhaven; Brighton; Lon- 
don; Oxford; Warwick; Slratford-on-Avon ; Chester; Liverpool; 
New York. Time occupied, about seventy-five days, allowing a week 
each in London ai\d Paris, and an amply sufficient time at each other 
place. The return will be made in a Cunard Steamer; the Steamship 
Tickets will be good to return for a year. 

Those who wish to extend their tour to Italy, will be permitted to 
do so, and the following additional arrangements have been made 
with Sir Knight E. M. Jenkins : To leave main party at Geneva; to 
be supplied with a conductor, (if there be ten in the party,) and go via 
Mount Cenis Tunnel to Turin; Milan; Verona; Venice; Padua; Bou- 
logne; Florence; Rome; Naples; Vesuvius; Pompeii; Pisa; Genoa; 
Turin; and back to Paris, London, Liverpool and New York. To oc- 
cupy three weeks longer, and to cost ^140, in gold, more, which in- 
cludes all hotel expenses, gondolas in Venice, carriages for three days' 
sight-seeing in Rome, with Companion Shakspei-e Wood for guide, 
carriages and ponies for Pompeii and Vesuvius. 

The accommodations on board the Steamships, at Hotels, and on 
the Railroads, are first class in every particular. The Rooms on the 
Ocean Steamers are to be occupied by three persons; but smaller 
rooms for two persons may be obtained at no increased expense. 
Should two persons wish to occupy a large outside room, the additional 
charge will be ^36 in gold, each, for the journey both ways. The 
Steamship accommodations must be secured by the middle of Febru- 
ary, and it is intended to engage and pay for twenty rooms, by that 



i6 Crusadk to Ei'Roi'i; 



time; hence it is important that those who intend participating in this 
pilgrimage, pay at once to the Treasurer of Allegheny Commandery, 
Sir Alfred Slack, the advance payment necessary to secure these rooms. 
The balance of the amount can be arranged by the 1st of June, in a 

manner to be announced. 

The Pilgrimage Party w ill be limited to the number necessaiy to 
fdl twenty rooms, which in no case will exceed tifty, and may fall 
below that number. 

By order of Em. Commander, 

B. F. HORNER, 
Geo. C. Johnstone, W. H. SLACK, 

Recorder. EDWARD COATES, 

JOS. H. ELTON, 
JOHN HEATH, 
GEO. C. JOHNSTONE, 
• Conmiittee. 

Final arrangements for the Crusade, so far as the 
other side of the ocean was concerned, being tliiis com- 
pleted, the following letters were received, showing our 
fraters across the Atlantic were anticipating our visit: 

Enniskillen, Ireland, March 7, 187S. 

Dear Sir and Brother : 

Kindly drop me a line by return mail, saying what 
day the Allegheny Commandery will positively leave New Vork and 
reach Enniskillen. If you have a dated itinerary to spare, I would be 
glad to have it. ■'•" - '•'' * Hoping to meet you all 

well and hearty on your arrival. 

Fraternally and faithfully yours, 

O. TERNAN. 
Geo. C. J0HN.STONE, Esq., 

Allei^heuy City, Pa. 



OK Alt,f.ghf.ny Commandery. 17 

LEiais, England, March 26th, 1878. 
Dear Sir Knigh' : 

I have heard through E. M. Jenkins' agents here, 
that your Commandery purpose to pay Leeds a visit this summer, and 
as you would not object, perhaps, to meeting your brethren on this side 
the water, I have written to our E. C. to-day, informing him, and no 
doulot he will call a meeting to see what we can do; our numbers are 
only small, but I doubt not we shall be able to give you an English 
welcome. With fraternal regards to yourself and the other Sir Knights, 

believe me, 

Fraternally yours, 

t W. J. BECK, P. E. P. 
Sir Geo. C. Johnstone, 

Allegheny City, Pa. 

In the meantime the efficient Committee, in whose 
hands were the arrangements, had been perfecting and 
completing the same, so that on June 1st, 18Y8, their 
arduous and well managed labors were ended, the books 
being closed with thirty-eight persons forming the part}^ 

The following kind letter was tlien duly received 
from a Commandery whose " fame has spread both far 
and wide," and from gentlemen of whom it is entireh^ 
worthy, and of whom we shall have occasion to spealv 
later on. The words contained therein speak kindly and 
directly as though coming from the heart sincerel}'^ : 

HEADQUARTERS 

Palestine Commandery, 

nnic Te,,, No. 18, K. T. 

ijtii Ave. & 23(1 St, New York, Jime 8th, 1878. 

To the Eminent Commander, Officers and Sir Knights of Allegheny 
Commandery, No. 35, K. T., Stationed at Allegheny City, Pa.: 



i8 Crusade to Kuroi-e 

Dear Fralcrs : 

We are well aware thai you are lo make a Tilgrini- 
age to Europe, leaving this port on July 3d, next, and wisiiing you to 
leave these shores in the most pleasant manner, we therefore, as a 
Commandery, should like to meet you on your arrival in our city, on 
Tuesday, July 2d, and escort you to your hotel. 

Palestine, No. 18, desires to become Ijelter acijuainted with the 
Sir Knights of Allegheny, No. 35, and we trust this may be the means 
of so doing it. 

Trusting that you will accept of our escort, and if you will give us 
full particulars as to the time of your arrival here, we will make all 
proper arrangements for receiving you. 

We remain, 

Courteously and fraternally yours, 

ATTEST, t GEORGE W^ SKELLEN, 

J.\MES A. Rich, Em. Commander. 

Recorder. 

This hearty and kind invitation, coming as it did. 
so manifestly an evidence of fraternal good -will and 
esteem, was unanimonsl}' accepted on the part of Alle- 
gheny, No. 35, by means of the following letter : 

Allegheny Commandery, 

No. 30, K. T. 

Allegheny City, Pa., June 12, 1878. 

To the Eminent Commander, Officers and .Sir Knights of Palestine 
Commandery, No. 18, K. T., Stationed at Ne\\- York, Greeting: 

Dear Fraiers : 

Your official communication has been duly received. 
Knowing well the reputation the Sir Knights of Palestine Commandery, 
No. 18, have ever enjoyed of being "Good Sir Knights, and True," 
those compos. ng the membership of Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, 
will deem it one of the most pleasant features of their Second Pilgrim- 
age to Euroi^e, to meet and greet, personally, the members of your 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 19 

Commandery, and as you have to this end so kindly intimated, we 
cheerfully accept the tender of your Commandery as escort on our 
arrival in New York. 

We leave Pittsburgh on Monday evening, July ist, at 6 P. M. 

via Pennsylvania Rail Road, arriving at Jersey City about 7:15 A. M. 

July 2d. 

We remain ever, 

Courteously and fraternally yours, 

ATTEST, LEE S. SMITH, 

Geo. C. Johnstone, Em. Commmider. 

Recorder. 

And the following answer was received : 

HEADQUARTERS 

Palestine CommsLiidery, 

. 7, No. 1-8, K. T. 

Gth Ave. & 23d St.^ ^^^ Y^^^'^' J""^ 2°' ^^78. 

Geo. C. Johnstone, 

Recorder Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, K. T. 
Dear Sir Knight : 

Your courteous letter of 12th inst., accepting our escort, 
was duly received. We have also received your circular giving partic- 
ulars of route, etc., and we will therefore arrange our plans accordingly 
for the 2d proximo. 

Please state the exact time you will leave your headquarters, the 
Grand Central Hotel, on July 3d, to go on. board the S. S. "Russia." 
Your reply by Monday morning next, will greatly facilitate our orders 
and plans. 

Yours, fraternally and courteously, 

JAMES A. RICH, 

Recorder. 

The following orders were then issued from the Com- 
mandery, in accordance with all previously arranged 
plans : 



Crusadk to Europe 



}IEADIJUART1CKS 

Allegheny Commandery, 

No. 35, K. T. 

Masonic IIai.l, Allegheny City, Pa., June, 15, 1878. 

SPECIAL ORDER No. i. 

I. In accordance with Resolution of the Commandery, the Re- 
port of Committee of Arrangements for Excursion to New York, will 
accompany this order. 

IL The members of Allegheny Commandery, as well as those 
of Pittsburgh No. i, Tancred No. 48, and all others who desire to 
participate in escort, will assemble at Asylum, at 4 P. M., sharp, on 
Monday, July 1st, in full Templar uniform. It will be necessary to 
complete formation and assign Sir Knights to their positions before 
leaving the Asylum. 

III. On arrival in New York the Command \\\\\ lie received by 
Palestine Commandery No. iS, stationed in New "\'ork, and escorted 
to hotel. 

lY. After escorting the Crusaders to steamer in New York, July 
3d, the escort will return to hotel where it will be disbanded. It will 
be necessary for Sir Knights to take with them a full suit of citizen's 
clothing. 

Y. Sir Knights who cannot accompany escort to New York 
and desire participating in parade before starting can do so ; their 
I'^ggage will be taken to depot, that they may change their dress 
there. 

YI. Hand will report at depot at 5:00 P. M. sharp, to Captain- 
General of Commandery. 

By order of LEE S. SMITH, 
ATTEST, Em. CoDuiiander. 

Geo. C. Johnstone, EDWARD COATES, 
Recorder. Capt.- General. 



C)F Allegheny Commandery. 



A Uegh eny Com m an dery, 

]S"o. 35, K:. 'V. 

Masonic ?Iall, Allegheny City, Pa., 
Sir Knight : June, 1878. 

At the stated conclave of the Commandery, held April 
26th, it was resolved that the Commandery go to New York, as escort 
to Members of this and other Commanderies who accompany Allegheny 
Commandery on its Second Pilgrimage to Europe in July next. 

The Committee of Arrangements for the Excursion, issued the 
following Information, viz : * 

The Commandery will go via P. R. R., on special train, leaving 
Union Depot at 6 P. M., Monday, July ist. Baggage will be taken 
from Masonic Hall, Allegheny, and Library Hall, Pittsburgh, to depot, 
(free of charge,) by kindness of Sir John W. Haney, of Pittsburgh 
Commandery, No. i. 

Members of Pittsburgh, No. i, Tancred, No. 48, and all visiting 
Sir Knights, are courteously invited to join with us on this occasion. 

Eare to Neiu York and Heturn, $12.^0, 

Tickets good for 15 days. Any Sir Knight wishing to remain longer 
can have his ticket endorsed by Thomas E. Watt, Esq., who will ac- 
company Commandery to New York. 

Tickets for European party good until return. Quarters have 
been secm-ed at Grand Central Hotel, New York, at $2.50 per day. 

Sleeping-car rates as usual. In order that sufficient accommoda- 
tion may be provided, those intending to participate and desiring 
sleeping-car berths, will notify Sir William H. Bown, Chairman Com- 
mittee, No. 136 Wood Street, immediately, and by paying him they 
will be secured. 

Tickets will be sold to friends of Sir Knights desiring to go to 
New York on this train. 

Tickets may be had at Union Depot, of Thomas E. Watt, Gen- 
eral Ticket Office, corner Fifth Avenue and Smithfield Street ; also at 
the Asylum, at regular Conclave, June 28. 



Crusade to Europe 



In order to arrange for special train, it will he necessary to know 
soon how many are going. You will please notify George C. John- 
stone, Recorder, No. II Boyle Street, Allegheny, immediately. Lunch 
will be provided on train. 

WILLIAM H. BOWN, 
GEO. W. SPENCER, 
THOMAS M. WHITE, 

Coiiunittee. 

All tinangemc'iits on the part of the Coramandeiy for 
the Crusade being complete, we awaited the receipt of 
our " Lettei-s of Credence " from the Grand Commandery 
of Pennsylvania, as well as permission from that body, 
and the Grand Commandery of the State of New Jersey, 
to pass through the two named States as a bod}^ of 
Knights Templar, which came duly to hand, to-wit: 

Letter of Credence. 

AiiefgiiefhlT ^chihi^hde^ir, Mo. ;3S, 

Masonic Knights Templar, Allegheny, U. S. ok A. 

1878. 

To the Most Eminent and Supreme Grand Master : 

The Grand and Subordinate Officers and Sir Knights 
of all Encampments, Preceptories and Priories of the Royal, Exalted, 
Religious, and Military Order of Masonic Knights Templar, in Eng- 
land and Wales, and Jurisdiction thereunto belonging; as well as to 
those of Scotland, Ireland, and in whatever country wherein the symbol 
of the Cross has been displayed upon the banners of Templarism, to 
advance the moral, intellectual, and religious knowledge of our Chris- 
tian order, 

PEACE, UNITY, AND FRATERNAL LOVE. 

Be it known. That Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, of the 
City of Allegheny, Pennsylvania, deriving a charter from the Grand 
Commandery of Knights Templar, of the State of Pennsylvania — 



0.F Al.T.EGHKNY COMMANDERY. 23 

in their associate capacity as a Subordinate Commandery, having 
made all the necessary arrangements for an excursion through Europe, 
and to visit all Encampments, Preceptories, and Priories, on their 
designated route — it is eminently proper on such an occasion that the 
Right Eminent Grand Commandery of Knights Templar should pre- 
sent a Letter of Credence to such valiant and magnanimous Knights 
of Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, as may participate in the excur- 
sion. 

A list of these Sir Knights is appended, to vi^hich they have affix- 
ed their signatures. It is more particularly required from this Grand 
Commandery, as Pennsylvania was the first State in the American 
Union which organized a Grand Encampment, in Philadelphia, in 
1797, from Sir Knights who came to this State from the mother coun- 
try, and brought with them the rites and ceremonies of our chivalric 
and Christian Order. Hence it is right and proper that the glorious 
old Keystone State should be the first Grand Commandery in America 
to send to our mother country one of her subordinate Commanderies, 
fully equipped, to visit the home, the altars, the asylums, the historic 
memorials ; nay, the graves and monuments of our Templar fathers. 
This fact of itself should, and we trust ever will, render more stable 
and lasting the fraternal intercourse which should exist between the 
brethren of two countries descended from a common origin and 
bound together by the same ties. 

In the exalted character of Knights Templar, therefore, we affec- 
tionately and fraternally commend each and every one of the niem- 
bers and Sir Knights of Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, as Master 
Masons, who have worked on the Square — as Royal Arch Masons 
who have wrought on the Triangle at the rebuilding of the Second 
Temple, and brought to light treasures of inestimable value — and as 
Sir Knights, who as Pilgrim Penitents in our Asylums, have not only 
visited the Sepulcher, but knelt around the Sacred Delta and beheld 
the cross of our ascended Redeemer. 

These Sir Knights go from among us, for a season, as our imme- 
diate representatives, and we pray you, as officers and Sir Knights, 
to extend to our beloved subordinates, the Sir Knights of Allegheny 
Commandery, No. 35, and those associated with them from other 
States and other Commanderies, those fraternal greetings, and that 
disintei-ested friendship and unbounded hospitality which ever has, 



24 Crusade to Europe 



and we trust, ever will continue to adorn, distinguish and characterize 
our magnanimous Order, based upon brotherly love, friendship, and 
the Christian religion. 

Throughout their perilous voyage by sea and land, the officers 
of the Right Eminent Grand Commandery, its subordinates, and the 
individual Sir Knights will feel it to be their duty to pray, Immanuel, 
God with us, to have the illustrious Knights of Allegheny Ccm- 
mandery, No. 35, and those associated with them in His most holy 
keeping, and in due time, return the Sir Knights in peace and health 
to their families, their friends, their brothers, and their Asylums, in 
which fond and loving hearts will greet them as weary, wayworn pil. 
grinis, who, having performed their pilgrimage, desire to rest and 
offer their prayers and meditations at the shrine of their Redeemer. 

^ Given under our hands and seal of the Grand Commandery of 
Knight Templar of Pennsylvania, at the City of Meadville, Crawford 
County, this tenth day of June, 1878, A. O. 760, A. E. O. P. 81. 

SAMUEL B. DICK, R. E. G. Com. 

J. P. S. GO BIN, D. G. Com. 

De WITT C. CARROLL, G. Generalissimo. 

GEO. W. KENDRICK, Jr., G. Capt.-Gen. 

(^ ^ B. FRANK BRENNEMAN, G. Senior Warden. 

CHAS. W. BATCHELOR, G. Junior Warden. 
RICHARD MUCKLE, G. Treasurer. 

ATTEST, 

Chas. E. Meyer, Grand Recorder. 

The Grand Commandery of Pennsylvania issues the 
enclosed Letter of Credence to the following Knights, 
Members of Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, Kniohts 
Templar, Stationed at Allegheny. Pennsylvania. 
and tiiose associated with them from other Commanderies: 

Lee S. Smith, E. C. Rev. W. B. Watkins, 

No. 1, Pennsylvania. 

WiLLTAM H. Slack, P. E. C. Je.sse L. Stackhouse, 

No. 4, New Jersey. 

David W. Semple, Rohert Morris, 

Kentucky. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 



25 



James Milliken, 
J. F. Beilstein, 
Jas. C. Rafferty, 
Geo. S. Haines, 
J. D. Landis, C. G. 

No. 34:, Penusylviuiiii. 

A. O. Baker, 

No. bi, Pennsylvania. 

William C. Moreland, 

No. 4S, Pennsylvania. 

Geo. S. Eyster, 

Potomac, yv. Va. 

John Heath, 

No. 35, Pennsylvania. 

R. R. Carson, E. C. 

Logansport, Ind. 



John Amsden, P. E. C. 

Versailles, Kentucky. 

Robert J. Baxter, 

No. 16, St. Louis. 

William Fullerton, 

No. 2, Colorado. 

Edward F. Clinton, 

No. 2, Colorado. 

O. H Brusie, 

South Bend, Indiana. 

Ed. L. Schroder, 

York, Pa. 
W. C. Irwin, 

No. 12, Ohio. 

Jos. Vv^. Smith, 

No. 7, Pennsylvania. 

Walter E. Hague, 

No. 35, Pennsylvania. 

Alfred Slack, 

No. 35, Pennsvlvaiiiii. 



Accompanying these Letters of Credence, a copy of 
wliicli was given to each Crusader, was the following 
to the Right Eminent Grand Commanders of Knights 
Templar, Jurisdictions of New Jersej' and New York, 
to pass through their jurisdiction as a body of Knights 
Templar : 

Gr'S.nd ComniS-ndery^, Knights Templar, 
km AppEJiDAKT Orders of the State op Pennsylvania. 

7'o the A'ig/it Eminent Grand Coiuuiander, 

Officers and Sir Knights of the Grand Co?iimandery of N. yersey, 

GREETING : 
It having come to my knowledge, l:>y petition duly signed, directed 
to me as Right Eminent Grand Commander of this Jurisdiction, that 
Allegheny Commandery, No. jj. Knights Templar, under our com- 
mand, contemplate visiting your jurisdiction, and being desirous of 
promoting the honor of the Order of Knighthood, and aiding the cause 
of Virtue, linowledge and Hinnanity , 



26 Crusadil to EuROI'K 



I IIkrki.y Grant Permission unto Em. Sir Lee S. Smith, Oom- 
niaiulcr, Of'licers niul Sir Knights of Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, 
to appear in public in full Templar uniform, or fatigue dreiJs of Knights 
'remi)lar, as they may wish, on July 1st, 2d, 3d and 4th, A. O. 760, A. 
D. 1878, to escort the members of the Pilgrimage to Europe to New 
York City, and to leave this State for a blending of kniglitly sentiments 
and enjoyment with the Sir Knights Templar of your jurisdiction, and 
with knightly courtesy to present and make known unto our Illustrious 
Frater, Right Eminent (!rand Commander of the Grand Commandery 
of the Knights Templar of the State of New Jersey, and other Illus- 
trious Companions, Sir Knights, composing the Grand Commandery 
of the State of New Jersey, the friendly and knightly regards and good 
intent of the Pennsylvania Knights Templar, for your continued pros- 
perity and well being, trusting that f}-aiei'tial love may ever exist 
between us, and that peace and utiity may forever prevail throughout 
the world in this Christian C)rder. 

And further, our Sir Knights comprising said Commandery, 
are hereby commended to your knightly consideration, and to all 
Knights Templar in your jurisdiction. 

Given under our hand, as witness our signature, and the Seal 
of the Grand Commandery of Knights Templar of Pennsylvania, and 
attested by the signature of our Grand Recorder, in the City of Mead- 
ville, this 27th day of June, A. D. 1878, A. O. 760, being the 80th 
year of the establishment of the Order of Knighthood in Pennsylvania. 

By order of 
ATTEST, SAMUEL B. DICK, 

j> \ Charles E. Meyer, Grand Comniandcr. 

Grand Recorder. 

With a similar autliority to the Right Eminent Grand 
Commander of the State of New York, Allegheny Com- 
mandeiy, No. 35, was, in every way, as a bod}-, prepared 
for her "Second European Pilgrimage;" and, apropos of 
our preparation, the following General Orders of Palestine 
Commandeiy, No. 18, of New York, were issued to the 



SKAL. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 



27 



members of that command, so that every detail had been 
arranged to make the departure of Allegheny, No. 35, a 
success in every particular. 



^a^ 



to 

Palestine 

No. 18, 

Masonic Temple, 



353 West 24th Street. 



'^-%. 



^% 




Com man derj, ^ 
K. T. 

SlxthAve. &23dS']-. 



ORDER No. 2. 

Sir Knip-Jit : 



New York, June 27, li 



In accordance with our letter to Allegheny Commandery, No. 
35, K. T. (tendering them an escort, on their arrival in this city, on 
their way to Europe, and which they have accepted,) you are ordered 
to assemble at the ferry, foot of Cortlandt Street, N. R., on the morn- 
ing of Tuesday, July 2d, promptly, at g^ A. M., in full uniform for 
escort duty. — 

A delegation of six Sir Knights., (to be appointed at our next regu- 
lar conclave, July ist,) will cross the ferry to Jersey City, and meet the 
Sir Knights of Allegheny, No. 35, and those of Pittsburgh, No. I, and 
Tancred, No. 48, who accompany the Crusaders. 

When the delegation and our visiting Knights reach this side, the 
line of march will move through Cortlandt Street to Broadway, through 
Broadway to the Grand Central Hotel. On arrival at the hotel the 
Commandery, as a body, will be dismissed for the day. 



28 Crl'sadk to Europe 



It is especially ordered that all Sir Knights will he prompt at 
Corllandt Street Ferry, on Tuesday morning, at the specified time, to 
answer the roll call, and to receive their numbers in line, by which 
they will be designated. If the weather proves stormy, \\\& full faligtce 
dress will he worn. 

It is the express desire of the Eminent Commander, that as many 
Sir Knights of our Commandery as can possibly do so, will parade, as 
he is desirous of having a full re]5resentation of our Command. 

Every Sir Knight who can', will Ije present at 7^ o' c\ocV, promptly , 
on Monday, 1st prox. 

ATTEST, f GEO. W. SKELLEX, 

James A. Rich, Em. Commander. 

Keco7'der. 

The arrangements being wholly completed, the first 
day of July was awaited patiently, each of those partici- 
pating in tlie crusade being now busily engaged in 
arranging their business matters, and individually- pre- 
paring for departure. 




OF Allegheny Commaxdery. 




ihti^-odiictioii. 



Introduction of Author and the 
Pilgrims. — Preparing to Leave. 
New York. 



' Quartette." — The 
-The Excursion to 



ikT the very outstarfc of this volume, and at the 
threshold of our work, our condemnation may be 
written, our doom may forever be sealed, so far as 
book-work maj' be concerned; for an apparent evidence of 
egotism, but we feel that a certain feeling of friendship 
should exist between the reader and the writer, and that 
all should become acquainted with the " poor and wear}- 
pilgrims" about departing on their wayfaring tour; hence, 
we trust that in thus introducing ourselves, our most 
severe critics maj'' lean charitably towards us, when we 
state the fact, that under no circumstances can we permit 
our hours spent far into the night, the waking in the 
mornings with bleared eyes, sunken and expressionless 
in appearance, with visions of ghosts and hobgoblins 
flashing like wild-fire through our brain — to use a de- 
scription frequently read of poor and lowly authors, 



30 



CrUSADK to El'ROI'E 



who, for a meager pittance, in some lowly corner or gar- 
ret, grind out i)age after page of intellectual food for the 
hungiT mind, knowledge for the learning and studious, 
or trash for the young or lower minds — we sa}' we can- 
not permit such an opportunity to pass, without introduc- 
ing ourselves to our reader, and to each Sir Knight with 
whom we ma}' thus become acquainted ; therefore we 
humbly ask that pardon, which we feel will readily be 
granted by all, at least those who have been taught the 
invaluable lessons of charity and brotherly love, we 
having thus frankly confessed judgment in this case. 

B}^ occupation we wearily tread the path of life as — 
pardon our bash fulness — an editor ; earning our livelihood 
wielding the pencil for a journal, not of the kind that sa3S, 
" Good morning " to us at the breakfast table, to be read 
by pater familiasj with glaring headlines of 50,000 
majority for the opponent of our political views, and 
which causes us to throw down the innocent paper 
violently', with still the last bite of toast in process of 
mastication, jam our hats on wrong side foremost, and 
pass out at the door, muttering something about Maine, 
Ohio or Penns3dvania gone Republican, Democratic or 
Greenback again. No ; not a political journal, nor 
even one that drops in during the sombre hours of the 
evening, with foreign news twelve to twenty-four hours 
old, clippings from other papers and titbits of romance 
from the monthlies, with choice bits of mild gossip and 
light scandal ; no, neither such as these, but of such an 
one as goes into the hands of smiling maidens and pretty 



OK Allegheny Commandkrv, 



creatures of the fair sex, with pnges of cuts from the 
latest imperative orders from dame fashion, which regal 
mistress causes tlie fair reader and looker on to beseech 
papa to open his heart and pocket-book to give daughter 
the wherewithal to purchase sufficient material to make a 
costume copied from pattern No. 12, &c. 

An editor is supposed by all who are not editors to 
be a portion of a race of people entirely different from 
their brethren in humanity — a sort of peculiar personage, 
who lives, moves and has his being in the most simple 
kind of manner, a sure dead-head on all free excursions ; 
ever}- poclvet bulged out with rail road and street car 
passes; Avith the doors of theatres and opera houses 
wide open to allow him to enter therein ; picked up bodily 
and carried by sheer force, and entire!}' in opposition to 
his will, into Congress and into power ; one who knows 
everything, can stand any amount of abuse and fears no 
living thing ; and on behalf of the editor, without deny- 
ing or affirming the common belief, we would say that 
the latter clause is about the only thing on this earth an 
editor has to be thankful for, namely, he is allowed con- 
siderable freedom about his own office, his home or upon 
the street, for as a rule the multitude fear the editor, for 
he is the ghoul of his jurisdiction, pariicularl}- if he be 
the editor-in-chief, the city editor and proprietor, for 
these three form the grand trinity of newspaperdom with 
one noble head the — fighting editor. 

When we bring to the notice of loving parents and 
kind guardians the fact that away up flights of stairs, in 



Crusade 'jo Euroi'k 



some sccliuled nook or corner, gnzing- upon bus}' and 
begrimned hnmiinit}- below, or 'neatli tlie dim light of 
lamp or gas, sits the editor, scratching iiis cranium, as 
his brain ekes out that, wliieh in his o[>iniou is to please 
mankind generally, onl^' to lintl that withiji twenty-four 
hours after his pencil has left his article, some terribly 
oflended personage presents himself at the door of the 
sanctum, armed in a manner a lava bed or Ute chief 
would envy, and cry for b-lud ; or when we recall the 
fact that perhaps the strawberrj^ short-cake, furnished by 
some church festival — for notice — is the onlj' morsel he 
lias had for da3's to drive awa}- the dull gnawing at his 
vitals, we would sa^', give your bo}' the education of a 
lawyer, doctor, dentist, machinist, counter-hoppei', roller, 
puddler — anjthing in this world, but do not we pray you 
entice the young man into a situation where he is not 
only in great danger of starving, but of being thrashed 
daily, and under no circumstances allow him to take to 
the craft, unless you go over him with a tape line and by 
exact measurement find him to be six feet one inch high, 
chest fort3^-two to forty-flve inches, his arm above elbow 
twenty-four inches, with six inches of a " sliding scale" 
at that point, well skilled in the manly art, an expert 
with the sword, and a crack pistol shot. With qualifica- 
tions such as these, tiie chances are, with a fine educa- 
tion thrown in, ninetj'-nine to one hundred he will be able 
to drag out a weaiy existence on this mundane sphere 
anVid struggling humanity. 

We have thus, perhaps lengthily, told of our occupa- 



OF Allegheny Commandery. ;^^ 



tion, but we considered it necessary, for had we not filled 
the afore-described bill and made a success of it, how 
could we possibly have gathered together sufficient 
resumption mone}^ to go on a "Crusade?" 

We take pleasure now in introducing first, three gen- 
tlemen wlio accompanied the " Crusade " and who with 
the author formed what we shall know throiTgh our work 
as the '"Quartette," 

Lee S. Smith, Esq., a gentleman engaged in business, 
in the centre of the busy home of enterprise in the city of 
much smoke, alias Pittsburgh, alias Iron City, &c., &c., 
in whose office are case after case filled with front teeth 
and back teeth, upper teeth and lower teeth, eye teeth 
and stomach teeth, wisdom teeth, molar teeth, — and — 
teeth, and — well, yes, and — teeth. Preceding his name is 
tlie title of doctor, a title he honestly deserves, and here- 
after we shall know him with the " Quartette " as the 
Doctor. 

Mnjor William C. Moreland, a gentleman well-known 
to the citizens not only of Pittsburgh, Allegheny City 
and their vicinitj^, but throughout the whole State of 
Pennsylvania, as a gentleman of the highest culture ; 
gifted with a flow of language and oratory such as the 
Almight}^ gives to but an infinitessimally small number 
of the human race ; a gentleman who takes the platform 
before the largest audiences possible to be assembled, and 
with his vivid powers of description, his elegantly round- 
ed periods, holds the vast multitude in perfect silence, 

c 



34 Crusade io Eukoi'E 



until the pulsation of a heart could almost be heard 
aloud ; a gentleman well know to the bench and bar of 
Alleglieny County, and who has made the rooms of the 
court house ring and the ears of many " twelve good men 
and true" tingle witli his elo(iuence — is the third person 
we wish our readers to become acquainted with, and as a 
member ot the " Quartette " shall know him as the Major. 

And now to complete the four, whose acts and deeds 
" have spread both far and wide," we have the pleasure 
of introducing Colonel Samuel McConihe, an officer in 
the United States arni}^, a particularly fair and hand- 
some gentleman, wlio fought, bled, died and came to life 
again during our civil war, and now stationed in that far 
western territory where many men think and feel they 
are happy with anywhere from six to sixty wives and 
countless children ; a gentleman whose pleasant acquaint- 
ance we shall ever remember with a positive and lasting- 
pleasure. Thus is completed with the Colonel, Major, 
Doctor and "Carlisle" a perfect and happy Quartette. 

PREPARING TO LEAVE. 

As the (\a.y neared for the departure, we find regis- 
tered the following persons, making the subjoined 

ROSTER : 

Em. Sir Lee S. Smith, Evu Commander. 
Em. Sir John Amsden, Generalissimo. 

Sir Wm. C. Moreland, Captain- General. 

Sir David W. Semple, Recorder. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 



Em, Sir GrEO. S. Eysteii, Treasurer. 
Em. Sir William H. Slack, 



Prelates. 
Em. Si I' Robert Morris, 

Sir Wm, Fullerton, Senior Warden. 

Sir Jas. C. Rafferty, Junior Warden. 

Sir J. D. Landis, Sword Bea^rer. 

Em. Sir 0. H. Brusie, Standard Bearer, 

Sir Robert J. Baxter, Warder. 

Sir Kiiiglits James Milliken, 

George S. Haines 

J. F. Beilstein, 

Edward F. Clinton, 

A. O. Baker, 

Jesse L. Stackhouse, 

Edward L. Schroder, 

AND as members OF THE PARTY: 

Col. S. M'Conihe, of Salt Lake City, Utah ; Dr. Wm. M. 
Herron, Misses Mary and Nannie Herron, Miss Lillian 
B. Patterson, Mrs. William H. Slack, Mrs. E. C. Raf- 
ferty, and Frank E, Heath, Esq. of Allegheny City, Pa. ; 
Dr. A. Dudley, of Salem, Mass. ; Mrs. E. L. Schroder, 
of York, Pa. ; xMrs. J. T. Mifflin and Mrs. W. T. Frohock, 
of Philadelphia, Pa.; H. C. Levis, Esq., of Mt. Holly, 
N. J. ; Wm. E. Corey, Esq., of Kearney, N. J ; C. D. 
Boynton and Miss Ella M. Carr, of Jersey City, N. J. 
Miss Susan M. Leverich, of Bridgeport, Coiuie ', Jacob 
Laucks, Esq., of Womelsdorf, Pa., and E. W. Parke f, 
Esq., of Little Rock, Ark. 



Crusade to Europe 



The first (\tiy of July finality caino round and all were 
on the qui vice — friends hurrying hither and thither, 
packing satchels and trunks; and just here let us add, it 
is one of the. most pleasant features of leaving home on 
an extended tour. 

It is such an enjoyable affair after having been puffing 
and tugging with your collar loose at the back, project- 
ing itself away up over your ears, pulling at a strap, 
endeavoring to close the gaping sides of a trunk or 
satchel, you have it at last securely fastened, and with 
a sigh of relief you say, "Well, there's a good job 
done ;" you seat yourself to cool off (we beg our readers 
to remember that this time is the first of July ;) you see 
something white below the table or bed on which you 
have had 3^our things, and you discover 3'ou have foroot- 
ten to put in 3'our collars or some handkerchiefs, and of 
course they must go in. 

An air from " Pinafore " or a bar of the " Sweet Bye 
and Bj^e " are of course the fii'st things which come to 
your recollection, and with a cheerful smile you proceed 
to unbuckle your hard-earned pull ; ^-our satchel flies 
open with a dull thud ; you place in a corner the articles 
you have innocently oveiiooked ; and go to work again on 
the satchel. Now you cannot close it ; you sit down on it 
or call in your wife or the landlady to sit down on it; 
you place your left foot against it, the veins in 3'our fs)ie- 
head and neck begin to swell ; your face alternatelj^ 
becomes purple and red ; 3'ou wear paper collars : a button 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 



hole bursts ; you stoop to take a better hold, away goes 
a suspender button, and still the abominable arrange- 
ment will not fasten ; you begin to feel a little mad now, 
and of course it helps things amazingly to heave the 
satchel a fearful kick, touching up a tender corn or 
bunion on your right foot; then you look at it and 
around it, and lo ! tlie poor little innocent tab-like arrange- 
ment that is in 3'Oiir linen, for holding smoothly down 
the elegantly laundried shirt-front, has doubled up and 
in some manner unexplainable, gotten out over the edge, 
and prevents the lid of the satchel or trunk from being 
fastened ; you open it to remove the obstruction, when 
out slides some collars, a necktie, a pair of hose, or 
something of the kind ; pleasantly replacing them, \',ou 
get up smiling, aye, may be, singing aloud a verse of 
some old familiar Sunday school, or revival, or camp- 
meeting hj-ran, and with cheerfulness depicted on everj^ 
feature, j'-ou go at the pulling process again, only to 
break a strap or to have a buckle give way, and the reac- 
tion brings yon up standing, striking your head against 
some sharp point or corner, but heeding not any of these 
seeming little annoj-^ances, the tune you are humming 
goes on quite as cheerfully as ever. All this we say is 
exhilarating in the extreme, and would lead a person to 
wish they were going away every day in the week. 

EXCURSION TO NEW YORK. 

But every mortal thing comes to an end sometime, 
and as with all others so does the pleasantry of packing ; 



38 Crusade to Europk 



and as according to our orders it is now almost 4 P. M. 
and the hour of departure is almost at hand ; we must 
say " Good bye " now to dear and loved ones, and 
although it is surnamed the " ocean ferry " and little is 
now thought of the dangers of travel b}^ sea, 3'et there is 
scarcely anything more touching to a man's heart if he 
is the possessor of a happ}' home, than to gather around 
him his loving wife, and his little ones upon his knee^ 
and hear those tender words, affectionately said, " Good- 
b3'e, husband," and " Bj^e-bye, papa dear," from the 
loA'ing children as their tender arms encircle the father's' 
neck ; and as he turns at the doorstep to snatch a last 
fond kiss from those who are dearer than all the world to 
him. Xone but those having such homes and passed 
through such scenes, can appreciate the father's feelings, 
as he leaves, on looking into his little one's eyes so beau- 
tiful, sparkling and clear, containing the big tear now 
read}^ to roll out and over, and hurriedly thinks himself 
home again, to see those e3'es once more all sunshine and 
gladness, or that he is now looking into them for the last 
time on this earth ; despite the anticipated pleasures of 
the trip and the excitement attendant, it is with sad 
heart he goes forth from home. 

At 5 P. M. we find the Asylum of Allegheny Com- 
mandery all bustle and excitement, baggage being check- 
ed — and here it is but due to a worthy Sir Knight, an 
honorary member of Allegheny Commnnder}', that to his- 
kindness much trouble was avoided to the " Crusaders,'' 
by having voluntarih' j^roffered his wagons and services 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 39 

in checking baggage directly from tlie Asylum to the 
steamer, and transporting the same to the depot. As 
Allegheny Commandery is under obligations for many 
such acts of kindness upon the part of the same gentle- 
man, all will know to whom we refer, our worthy frater, 
Sir John W. Haney, of Pittsburgh Commandery, No. 1. 

The hour of starting is 5:30 P. M., and with military 
promptness — an escort kindl}^ tendered us by Pittsburgh 
Commandery, No. 1, and Tancred, No. 48, both turning 
out some fifty swords each — were in waiting for us at 
our Asylum. 

The lines were soon formed, consisting of about one 
hundred and fifty Sir Knights, and the commands: 
Officers^ Posts ! Commandery, forivard, March ! ! were 
given, when as a piece of machinery, with steady and 
measured tread, light of foot and. heart, Alleghenj' Com- 
mandery stepped off from her Asylum on her second 
European Crusade. 

As we left our quarters we were handed a package by 
an old time friend, Joseph H. Elton, Esq., with whom 
we shook hands regretfully, as we should like to have 
had him along with his old command, and although he 
gave seemingly good and sufiicient reasons for not going 
we are prone to believe he,inwardly reflected that thirty- 
eight persons were a good many to laugh at one man, a 
couple of days out from New York. 

It was a lovely summer evening, and as the Com- 
mandery moved down Federal Street, headed by the 



40 Ckusadk io KlkoI'I. 



b:ui<1 of the Commandery, under the leadership of Prof. 
Thomas F. Kirk, playing the " Child of the Regiment," 
all alonu the loute, on the sidewalks, in the windows, 
were crowds giving a farewell cheer to tlic pilgrims as 
they passed, showing, as came forth the hearty •' Good- 
IjA'e Lee, Will, James," &c., that thej^ Lore with them the 
good wishes for a safe vo^-age and return of their fellow 
citizens. 

At the Union Depot we find a special train awaiting 
us, made up of luxurious sleeping-coaches, placed at our 
disposal by Thos. E. Watt, P^sq., of tlie Pennsylvania 
Rail Road Companj^, and after a hearty shake all round, 
^" all aboard " was cried out by the conductor ; and at 6 
o'clock sharp, amid the loud cheers from our friends, and 
music from the band, we were out of the depot, soon 
leaving the good old Smoky City behind, and traveling- 
over the road at the rate of fort}' miles an hour. 

It would be superfluous on our part to describe the 
main division of the Pennsylvania Rail Road, with its 
" Pack-Saddle," Johnstown, Cresson, Horse Shoe, Kit- 
tanning l^oint, &c. Suffice it to say Ave soon reached 
Altoona, where we made a combined attack upon the 
supper table, spread specially for us in the dining-room 
of the Logan House, which we will say is the onl}' place 
on the Pennsylvania Rail Road where tlie weary traveler 
can obtain wliat the common run of humanit}' would call 
a meal. 

Leaving Altoona we sought our berths and Avith 



OF Allegheny Commanueky. ' 41 



George C. Johnstone as our bed-fellow, we sought rest 
in laying down, but so far as sleep was concerned, were 
out about two dollars and fifty cents worth, for in- talk- 
ing over matters in general we did not notice the time 
pass so rapidl}', and were surprised to hear the porter 
say, '' time to get up, gentlemen," which of course we 
did, and prepared to go into the restaurant at Philadel- 
phia, and go through the form of eating at least — we 
will not say a word about this place, for those who have 
been there know what it is, and those who have not can 
try it once and judge for themselves. 

Leaving Philadelphia we sped lively from the United 
States into "New Jersey," and at 10 A. M. arrived at 
Jersey Cit}^, where we found a detachment of six Sir 
Knights in waiting to receive us froto Palestine Com- 
mandery. No. 18, of New York, under command of Sir 

Horace H. Brockway, Generalissimo of Palestine Com- 
mandery. 

The Command was again formed and marched on 
board the ferryboat and conve^'ed to Cortlandt Street, 
on the New York side. Arrived at Cortlandt Street, 
the Knights of Palestme Commandery under the com- 
mand of Em. Sir George W. Skellen, the Eminent Com- 
mander, and Sir Thomas B. Rand, the Captain- General 
of that Commandery, were found, drawn up in line 
awaiting us, and bearing the burning heat of the sun 
with commendable and exemplary patience ; and after 
exchange of courtesies by the respective officers, the ISir 
Knights of Palestine at once assumed the duties of 



42 Crusauic to Europe 



escort, and both bodies under the banners of their 
respective Comnianderies, and headed by tlie band of the 
Sevent3'-first Regiment, moved up Cortlaudt Street and 
into Broadway. 

Once on the great thorouglifare of the metropolis, 
the sidewalks were speedily filled with people, who accom- 
panied the Sir Knights on their march to the Grand 
Central Hotel. 

The march up Broadway to the stirring music ot the 
band was exceedingly pretty and gained special attrac- 
tiveness by the maneuvres of the escorting Knights, who 
frequently left the ordinary style of marching in company 
form, and fell into the cruciform and triangle form. All 
along the route the occupants of the stores and ware- 
houses crowded to the windows to see the unexpected 
pageant, and when tlie Knights drew up in front of the 
hotel the crowd had grown to very considerable propor- 
tions. 

The Command was then halted and filing into the 
corridor of the hotel, and the " Pilgrims " were drawn 
up in line on the northern side, when the escort went by 
at a quick pace, giving their guests a marching salute. 
Doubling back again they drew up in line on the 
southern side, when Eminent Commander Skellen stepped 
between the lines, bade Eminent Commander Smith and 
the Sir Knights of Allegheny Commandery welcome to 
the city in the name of Palestine Commander}'-, and also 
wished a pleasant voyage to such as were about to 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 43 



depart for Europe. Eminent Commander Lee S. Smith, 
iittingly replied to tlie warm and feeling remarks of Em. 
Sir Skellen, after which personal congratulations were 
exchanged ; and the warm grasp of the hand, the friendly 
and knightly welcome to each and all of us by the Sir 
Knights of Palestine Commandery made us feel per- 
fectl}' at home, and in five minutes were surrounded by 
as warm friends — though we had never met before — as 
almost any we could claim in Allegheny City. 

The bodies as bodies, were then dismissed for the 
daj^, to answer roll-call at headquarters at 8 P. M., the 
day being spent mostly in the quiet of our rooms until 
the hour for assembling had arrived, when our escort 
again visited our quarters, where an informal meeting 
and reception was held and a most delightful evening 
spent in old reminiscences of our former pilgrimage, and 
we feel assured that that evening will ever be remembered 
as one of the most pleasant occurrences experienced in 
our " Crusade." 

Pleasant and liappy addresses were made by Em. Sir 
George W. Skellen, who, by the way, is a gentleman we 
shall always remember for his genuine good-heartediiess 
and kindness ; but we must not, cannot mention one 
unless we speak of all who were there on that evening, 
for all alike proved themselves to be " good men and 
true," and everything in their power was done to make 
our visit to the metropolis as pleasant as it was. 

Remarks were kindly made by Sir James A. Rich, 



44 Crusade to Europe 



the genitil unci gentlemanly Recorder, and b}' Past Grand 
Coinmaiider of the State of New York, p]m. Sir EUwood 
E. Thorne, who made some A'ery beautiful and touching 
I'einarks ; requesting tlie Sir Knights ever to bear in 
mind the Cross, the eml)lem of their Christian order, as 
on them and their doings the e3'es of the curious and 
the world would gaze, and asked the Great Jehovah to 
take the •' Crusaders'' under His special care and keep- 
ing, and then briefly referring to the deatli of Sir Knight 
Bell, of Glasgow Scotland, also an honorary member of 
Allegheu}^ Commanderj^, closed bj' bidding us a hearty 
and knightly " farewell." 

These remarks were replied to by our Captain-Gen- 
eral and our friend Sir William C. Moreland, who with 
liis wonderful God-given power as an orator, in the won- 
derfully^ beautiful language of Avliich he possesses an 
exliaustless store, held all witliin his hearing as though 
spell-bound, and until the palpitations of the hearts of 
those present could almost be heard, and scarce!}'- an e^-e 
but was dimmed with a tear — an evidence we ever con- 
sider noble, as nothing so truthfuU}- tells the heart of 
man or woman as the tear which comes unforced — as he 
referred to the life of a Christian and Sir Knight of the 
Order of the Temple ; and indeed we felt as it were a 
feeling strongly savoring of pride, as round after round 
of applause came forth, to know that we had such talent 
with us to control entirel}^, almost for half an hour, the 
nigh unto breathless attention of so fine and cultivated a 
body of gentlemen and Sir Knights as were there assem- 
bled. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 45 



During the social exclianges of tlie evening a, very 
pleasant and unexpected little episode occurred, which 
added much to the already full enjoyment of the 
occasion. 

Major Moreland arose, and on behalf of a few friends 
in the " Crusade," presented Em. Commander Smith, in 
a few appropriate words, with a very iine U. S. signal 
glass, which we can say was most worthily bestowed, for 
never did any body of men leave home with a head 
carrying so honorably the respect and esteem of all, hot 
only under his official charge, but of all our citizens 
generally — a gentleman whose name stands far above 
any reproach — than Em. Sir Smith, who was in every 
way worthily qualified to lead a body bearing the good 
name of Allegheny Commandery. The gift was a com- 
plete surprise to the recipient, and was received in a few 
neat remarks in return, and thus was a pleasant evening, 
happily spent, when, owing to the early hour of sailing 
the follow^ing morning (7 A. M.,) the tender of an 
escort was respectively declined, and we were bade 
"adieu "by the Sir Knights of Palestine Commandery, 
and a " sky-rocket " (a new arrangement to us at that 
time,) arid which we immediately appropriated, despite 
the fact that Palestine had a patent on the same, and 
warned us to that effect, so tliat our friends in Allegheny 
and Pittsburgh are at any time liable to hear such a 
clatter of fireworks as will hiy the " great and glorious 
Fourth " completely in the shade, and not have their 
insurance rates advanced either. 



46 Crusade to Europe 



We must say trul}', that Allegheny Commandeiy has 
journeyed hither and thither, made man}^ pilgrimages, 
and will require to niake quite a number more, before 
her members Mill be more cordiail}' received, more 
courteousl}' treated, and more hosijitabl}^ entertained, 
than were the " Crusaders " by the Sir Knights of Pales- 
tine, and we trust the acquaintance formed between No. 
18 and No. 35 may be long, lasting, and continued, and 
that the " sky-rocket " may go forth frequently on the 
banks of the Ohio in honor of Palestine's A^sits to 
Alleghen}'. 

After a good night's rest we were called at 4:30 A. 
M- to make ready for sailing from the Cunard wharf, in 
Jersey City, and at 5 A. M. breakfasted, paid our bills, 
and boarded the coach in waiting to take us thither. 
We should like to, in fact we almost feel it our duty to 
speak of our sta}" at our liotel, but we will pass it b}-, we 
will onl}^ say, that Allegheu}^ Commandery owns a fine 
coach and span of horses in New York, the use of which 
we fraternall}' extend to any visiting Sir Knights when 
in New York City ; this tender we freely leave open to 
all, without reserve. 

Our friends accompanied us to the steamer, and again 
the ceremonies of handshaking were indulged in, and we 
find ourselves at 6:45 A. M., on Monday, July 8d, on 
board the British and North American Royal Hail 
Trans- Atlantic Steam Ship " Russia," and if there is 
anything in a name, we were in for all the benefit we 
could derive from that. 



OF Al.LKGHICNY CuMMANDERY. 47 



^eiie'^ #a i. 



ON BOARD R. M. S. S. " RUSSIA," AT SEA. 



The Pilgrims at Sea. — Celebration of Our Glorious Day 
of Independence. — Notorious Interruption of Reli- 
gious Services. — A Truly Loving Couple. — Nine 
Days in a "World of Our O-wn. 

(^j]>AVINGr found our baggage all safely stowed 
Sy^ away in our rooms, we returned to the deck of 
the steamer to take a last look into the faces 
of our fraters and friends upon the dock ; the last bell 
had rung for all to leave the ship who were not going 
out with her ; all was hurry and bustle and activity, 
orders being passed from captain to officers, and from 
officers to sailors ; making preparations to cast loose the 
lines which held the steamer to the deck. 

On every hand were little groups — husbands parting 
from wives, wives from husbands, parents from children, 
and friends from friends ; a merry laugh here mingled 
with a sob there ; making the near surroundings very 
pathetic. 

" All ashore ! " " Heave away that aft line ! " were 



48 Crusauic tu Euroimc 



sliouted from the bridge, iiiul in a few monients tlie lines 
were cast off, tlie bell in the engineer's room was heard 
to tingle, tlie machinery was set in motion, the water at 
the stern commenced to boil and gurgle, and we were 
now truly awaj'. 

Out upon the head of the pier had gathered our 
friends, and as we glided slowly out, loud and lusty were 
the cheers that went up from those on the pier to those 
on the steamer, and a " Good bye, George!" or a " Good 
bye, James," " Good bye, Ed.," was heard all along the 
side of the steamer, which continued until the ship had 
made her long and graceful curve, turning her pretty 
sharp prow toward the narrows ; then the faces became 
dim, until we could see and recognize onl^^ the white 
straw hat of our genial and jovial friend, A. M. Rambo, 
Esq., and the last person recognizable being our old 
friend, George C. Jolnistone, from whom we parted with 
regret ; the red cross upon his cap, that noble and 
glorious emblem of the magnanimous order of Knights 
Templar, pointed him out as he stood at his post waving 
his handkerchief, and soon the crowd upon the dock Avas 
only an apparent mass of small pieces of waving rags, 
and no one could be distinguished. 

What a beautiful morning! as we slowlj^ and quietly- 
dropped down the bay ; yet, as the sun cast his reflection 
upon the waters, we looked not with envious eyes back 
to the city we were fast leaving, for there was every 
indication the good citizens of New^ York would that day 
be running around with grape leaves in their hats, mop- 



OF Al.l.ECHKNY COMMANDERY. 49 

ping off their fevered brows with four-quarter bandanas, 
'chewing ice and running about promiscuously, and 
generally in search of " schooners " without masts. 

But how nice, cool and pleasant with us ; the stiff 
breeze coming up the ba}' was a cheerful stranger to 
meet ; and we now were seated away forward, taking in 
the scenery, beautiful as it is, passing pretty Staten 
Island and down under the guns of forts Hamilton, 
Wadsworth and Richmond. We passed the Hook, and 
giving our pilot a bushel or so of postal cards, letters, 
&c., we put him in his little boat, and immediately put 
to sea, closely followecl by tlie "Perierre," of the French 
line, and met her sister ship, the "Amerique," coming in. 

Having now passed far away from any view of land, 
we begin to meditate upon our situation, and it is only 
now we realize the fact that we are on board a 
" Cunarder." What! a "Cunarder?" Yes, and the 
commodore ship of the line, the "Russia." There is a 
singular fact in connection with, this steamer, and that 
is : prior to the placing of the " Scythia," "Bothnia" and 
"Grallia," in this line, we never met any person — not one — 
who had been to Europe and had crossed in a Cunard 
boat, but had crossed in the "Russia." "Been to 
Europe, Mr. Smith ? " " Yes, sir; just returned. Came 
over in the ' Russia.' " " Been to Europe, Mr. Jones ? " 
" Yes, sir ; arrived in New York one week ago, in the 
' Russia,' " and so on ad infinitum. We have yet for 
the first time to meet one who had ever crossed in tlie 
" Samaria," " Java," " Calabria," " Parthia," or " Olym- 

D 



50 Crusade to EuRori: 



pus ; " and beyond all question of doubt, the '" Russia " 
has carried more traus-Atlantic passengers to the square 
inch than an}- other boat or boats combined to the square 
mile. Having frequentl}- noticed tlie afore-stated fact, Ave 
now realize that we are at lost making one trip across the 
ocean in true pomp and style, on board a pompous and 
stylish steamer, belonging to a line having a long name, 
and that liad never lost a life. (Sailors' lives not counted.) 
We felt ourselves grow considerabh' when we thought 
of all these things ; any former experience of ours in a 
nautical wa}^ being confined exclusivel}' to more hinnble 
and common lines, such as the "Cit}' of Boston," or 
■^ " Cit}' of Baltimore," of the luman, and the '■ Columbia," 
'•Cambria," " Angiia," "Australia" and '•California," 
of the Anchor Line ; and we are now prepared to 
be lifted from our narrow, contracted ideas of what a 
steamship is, into all the grandeur of a floating palace. 

Without commenting, let us rather attempt a descrip- 
tion of an humble boat of an humble line, and then 
make a tour of the one we are now on. The "Circassia" 
say, of the Anchor Line, has, first, a flush deck — mean- 
ing a deck covered over and solid, tlie entire length and 
breadth of the ship, making a grand promenade. On 
this deck, amidships, are a smoking room, a handsome 
ladies' saloon, and a.wa.y above, as the roof to these 
large and commodious rooms, is what is called the 
'' hurricane deck," being on a level with the officers' 
bridge ; and on this is built a round tower with glass 
windows, so that in times of wet and stormy weather, 



OF Allkoheny Commandery. 



51 



passengers can enjo}', if they wish, the " billowing, 
tumbling waves." From tlie main deck you pass down 
a magnificent stairway, bronze statuary holding aloft 
large lamps, and from this stairway you pass round into 
your staterooms or into the saloon. 

The saloon is the whole width of the steamer, say 
forty to fort3^-t\vo feet, and maybe as long. The ceiling 
in the centre is open, in which are growing the most 
luxurious tropical plants and beautiful flowers, while 
surrounding this in a circle is the music room, a piano 
and a pipe organ at either end ; libraries filled with 
elegantl}^ bound standard works of history, science and 
fiction. 

The staterooms are on a level with the saloon, large 
and commodious, luxuriantly upholstered and fitted up ; 
electric bells in every room, so that a steward or stew- 
ardess can be called in a moment ; no tin pails and 
rattling basins, but running water from a spigot can be 
had at any time. On board are a ver}^ large lavatory, 
barber shop, and every possible luxury the ocean traveler 
could possibly desire, either for comfort or necessit}^ 
It win be observed, as stated, the staterooms are all 
directly underneath the main deck, so that those rooms 
are alwa3^s above water, and it has to be a pretty rough 
day when the portholes cannot be kept open, and 
freshen the rooms with good, pleasant air. Hastily- 
described, these are a few of the comforts of so common 
a boat as the " Circassia," with one other important 
addition : two persons only are ever placed in a single 
room. 



52 Crusadk to EuKoI'K 

Now let us look about us and see our commodore 
ship, find about the simplest manner possible to describe 
her, is to say she has not one of these conveniences. 
You go down a ladder from tlie quarter deck to the 
main deck, and then pass down two stairways to the 
" first floor," where instead of good clear daylight, 3^ou 
have lamps and foul air from closed portholes, and three, 
or even four, in a room. Ladies can have their choice, 
go down two stories to their rooms, or stay on deck 
through rain and fog. Gentlemen can suit themselves, 
give up the filthy practice of smoking, or hug the smoke- 
stack, or sit down in the hatchway and enjoy their 
fragrant Havanas, and finall}', if the " Russia " is a 
commodore ship we would like to try a liner. 

Of one thing we can freely speak in terms of praise ; 
never will more perfect discipline be seen on land or sea, 
nor a more gentlemanly man, or more watchful captain, 
than Commodore Cook of this steamer. He is never 
seen gadding and gossiping around with ladies -and 
passengers in general, always by himself, and always on 
duty, taking a peep at the compass or a squint at the 
sails. 

Having now been down to our room — we say doiv7i 
with emphasis — and having made the rounds of the 
steamer, and having put oh our overcoats we are fully 
prepared for the wind or the blast, or neither, of our sea 
voj'age. Our party numbering thirty-eight, we are 
assigned to what is termed the fore saloon, a very cosy 
room too, away forward of the smokestack, and just 



OF ALLEtaiENY COMMANDERY. 53 



suflEicientl}^ large to accommodate us, and by this method 
we are the better enabled to become acquainted with 
each of our traveling companions, and of course the first 
day is sufficient to decide who are to be " crowds " on 
the A^oyage. 

Of course among so many as we have on board, we 
have a large assortment of dispositions ; j^oung men 
fresh from college, young ladies from " Bosting," old 
gentlemen from the countr}^, doctors, lawyers, ministers, 
politicians, priests, merchants, school teachers, music 
teacliers, philanthrophists, pliilosophers, astronomers, 
and generals, colonels, captains, by the score. 

Thursday, Jul^^ 4th, the great and glorious day of 
our American Independence, we were all up early and 
moving round as livel3' as crickets. The day was dull, 
foggy, 3'et withal not disagreeably so ; the water as 
smooth as the Allegheny or Ohio rivers. None but were 
at least, as Gough would sa^^, " com-for-a-ble," — not a 
single person sick, tables all full, and all working out 
bravel}' tlieir passage monej^ No signs whatever of hav- 
ing a laugli at the expense of another; in fact we 
despaired, from the healthy appearance and hearty 
appetites of all, of seeing, as Judge Kirkpatrick describes 
them, running to the side of the steamer and lustily 
yelling, "New York! New Yoruk ! ! New Yorruk ! ! ! " 

After dinner we met in our saloon for the purpose of 
commemorating in some way the one hundred and second 
anniversary^ of our Natal Da}-. The meeting was called 
to order by Prof. William H. Slack, who nominated Lee 



54 CkUSAIiK to KlKol'K 

S. Smith for president, and D. W, Semple for secretarj', 
both of which nominations proved the appreciation of 
our party for superior talent, when some one loudly 
moved the nominations close, and it is needless for 
me to sa}', dear reader, the election Avas unanimous. 
Messrs. Robert Morris, L. L. P., of Lagrange, Ky. ; 
Edward Clinton, of Colorado; Dr. A. M. Milligan, 
Chaplain of tlie Western Penitentiary, in Allegheny 
City ; J. B. Amsdcn, of Kentucky, and Geoi'ge S. Eyster, 
of West Virginia, were elected vice-presidents. 

Although with two hundred and seventy-five passen- 
gers on board, yet our little party was the onl}- one to 
show any remembrance of our nation's birthday-, and we 
are now patiently waiting our appointment to some 
$17,500 foreign mission — say to the court of St. James — 
by the President, as an appreciation of our loyalty. 
Prof. Slack stated the object of the meeting, which 
was opened by a fervent prayer by Dr. Milligan, and the 
singing of the " Star Spangled Banner " by Prof. Slack, 
and a hearty chorus by all in the party, which we are 
sure frightened away at least all the little fishes, if not 
the larger ones, which might be swimming along in the 
wake of the steamer, waiting for those persons to come 
to the side and yell " New Yorruk ! ! " and which was 
rendered so heartil}-, and witli such a strong good will 
as to at once awaken enthusiasm, and to fire up everji-one 
to make the meeting a rousing one. 

Major Moreland was called on, and well he warmed 
up in his oratory for he had a glorious subject and 



ov Allecheny Commandeky. 55 

as gloriously did lie acquit himself; and as he finished 
his remarks, he was applauded and cheered until tlie 
clapping of hands and roars from hundreds of voices 
might have been heard at Sandy Hook, and rendering 
the fog whistle utterly useless. 

" My Country 'Tis of Thee," was then sung, and Dr. 
Milligan made an able and stirring address. Sir Robert 
Morris, the noted traveler and lecturer, was the next 
speaker, and feeling a " leetle onpleasant " about where 
the vest fits the tightest, made only a few brief remarks, 
but exceedingly well put, of many persons going abroad 
as " traveled monkeys," Rev. T)r. Deere, of Michigan, 
spoke at some length, pointedly and ably ; then came 
" Columbia the Gem of the Ocean," followed by the 
beautiful duet, " Larboard Watch," by Prof. Slack and 
Dr. Lee Smith who has an elegant deep basso voice, 
(particularly for crying, "Steward, some more prunes 
and crackers!") Other songs were then sung, and Dr. 
Smith recited beautifully, "Wounded," and our pleasant 
evening was closed with " In the Sweet Bye and Bye," 
and the Fourth of July, 18t8, was numbered with the 
past. Foggy all day, sea very calm and at noon had 
made three hundred and fifty miles. 

Friday, the 5th, was clear and beautiful, and if such 
were possible, the sea smoother than ever; the "Perierre" 
again in sight, as well as a steamer having fair winds 
with her, was making rapid way to New York. 
Not a " ripple on the wave," and it was a most amusing 
sight to see some of our party poke their fingers in 



56 Ck L.SAUK TO EUROPIi 



the arm-holes of their vests, and strutting alj(Hit the 
deck, loudl}- boast, " Oh ! I'm not going to be sick ! " 
" VViiy, I went round Cape Hatteras in a gunboat once," 
or '• Went up tlie Kiskiminetas or Schuylkill river in a 
skiff and never missed a meal." Among those so boast- 
ing and so strutting was the D. D., (not Doctor of 
Divinity but Doctor of Dentistr3\) 

We gazed wath the utmost satisfaction upon the 
Doctor, the Mnjor, the Colonel, and others, as thej' rolled 
indiscriminately into soups, pies, '' rol}' - pol^'^ " and 
" sich like," and seeing them progressing thusl}', we 
couldn't stand the dull monoton}^ any longer, so we set to 
work to get up a little toss, which b}- the little clouds no 
larger than a man's hand away off on the horizon, w^e 
concluded we would have,, and we did have it, as we will 
soon see. This day was pleasantly passed with a shuffle- 
board, euchre, whist, attempts at reading, etc., and at 
noon had added three hundred and twenty- miles more 
to our log. 

Saturday, JUI3' 6th, was clear and pleasant ; meeting 
occasionally or passing a sailor or two ; the party Avalk- 
ing in heavilj' to rich dinners, and getting an excellent 
" ready on " for the following da3\ All were going- 
round with broad grins and pleasant smiles, coming up 
cheerfull}^, cracking jokes at one another, and oh ! how 
J0II3' the\' all felt as they said. '' Grood morning '' or 
" Good night, Doctor," " Good night, Carlisle," &c., and 
with what an immense feeling of satisfaction every one 
would come up from dinner and '■ pull down his vest." 



)F ALHiGUENV CoMMANDKKY. 57 



The Doctor did that; the Major did that, and several 
others, and all retired that evening just "feeling elegant.'' 
Ahem ! Made three hundred and six miles to-da3^ 

Sunday, Jul^^ Yth. I awakened from a most refresh- 
ing sleep, and heard some kind of somnambulism in my 
room ; the sea was gurgling up and over the port- 
hole in a verj^ A'iolent manner. I looked over my 
bunk to find my room-mate, the Doctor, had vacated. 
James Rafferty, another room-mate, lay in his upper 
berth makino^ some kind of mumbling remarks about 
" Federal Street — Allegheny' — home." On looking over 
the side I found something come bumping around my 
bed on the sofa, the Doctor's valise diving wickedl}^ into 
the sides of my two-story Saratoga; friend Rafferty's 
Knight of Templar cap running around fearful of being 
jammed between trunks and evidently searching for its 
owner ; one leg of my pantaloons chasing the other 
wildly up and down ; a cent running after a pocket-book, 
or the pocket-book trying to capture the escaped cent ; 
umbrellas playing leap frog with canes, and everything 
in the room, in fact, having a jolly good game of " tag," 
and the vessel bobbing round like a cork. I said, ''Well, 
James, how do you feel ? " " Oh, 'Carlisle,' " says James, 
"if I only was at home; Ugh! Ugh!!" That was 
enough ; I knew how James felt ; I had been there on 
more than one occasion. Finally- I arose feeling, so far, 
tip-top, and after skirmishing round for a little while 
and bracing myself between two trunks, I succeeded in 
laying hands on the drunken water-pitcher, and having 



58 Crusadk to Euroi'K 



perfoniied tlie necessary ablutions, proceeded on deck to 
lind but a few persons there and it almost eight o'clock. 
The first person we meet is the Doctor, and with " Good 
morning, Doctor," we greet liim " how are 3-ou this 
morning? ■' " Oli, l.am not sick at all, Carlisle," sa3'S 
he, " but I am not well by a large majority." 

Of this we were perfectly satisfied before inquiring, 
but the Doctor takes ever^^tiiing good-iiaturedl}^ and 
philosophically^ and enjoyed the laugh on him all in good 
part. Now and again, up comes some straggler, among 
whom was the Major, or the Absolom of our part\% his 
raven locks just as neat, pretty and curly as ever ; but, 
oh ! horrors, what a face! Not usually lengthy, now dis- 
tended six inches further than customary, and after a 
liasty rush to the side. to see if he can observe any 
barnacles on the ship's side, "fesses up" like a man, 
'' that he is sick and don't care a continental who 
kiwws it." 

Then away forward coming towards us is our friend 
Baxter, from St. Louis, now and then stopping to see if 
phosphorescence can be seen in da^dight. The vessel is 
rolling fearfulh' and it is with difficult}- one can navigate 
the deck, and it was a most amusing sight to see our 
musical professor coming along the deck at an angle of 
about fortj'-five degrees, a lady on either arm, his portl}' 
figure onls" half visible from carr3-ing waterproofs^ 
wraps, gum cloaks, nubias, shawls, in fact a general 
assortment of dr^- goods, and in addition to these, of 
course, every lady must have her book and smelling- 



(IF* Allegheny Commandery. 59 



bottle, and umbrella, and crocheting, and lace work, 
and knitting, &c., all of which Professor S. was carrying 
gracefnlly and smiling as clieerfully as ever, his counte- 
nance as bright and liappy as though leading the Alle- 
gheny ■•' Quartette " to musical glory, or the good people 
of a certain church in Allegheny in 8's, t's and 4's, for 
so far our genial friend has not been under the weather, 
he being an old tar, and crusaded with our fraters in "71. 
And we might add here that we do not see how many of 
our party would have gotten along without him, for he 
was as a ministering angel unto many, proving himself 
exceedingly kind and attentive, going down into the 
staterooms of tliis one and that one, putting in a kind 
word here or prodding another one there with his 
inevitable cane, until they they were compelled to get 
out on deck, take in some of the good fresh air, and be 
made well. But then he, like us all, has his faults, being- 
mortal as us all, and we do unquestionably vote him 
the most selfish man on board the vessel in one particu- 
lar -j^ notwithstanding the fact that he is accompanied by 
his better-half, yet he monopolized the entire company 
of the young ladies of our part}' at the table, to the 
evident displeasure of our young friends from West 
Yirginia, New Jersey and Pennsylvania, for they v/ere 
debarred the pleasure of doing the agreeable ; but the 
boys had the inside track on him when the stars began 
to twinkle and the moon shone o'er the sea. 

To return to Sunday, a broad smile would have been 
" smoled " could the reader have seen our manl}'- and 
gallant Em. Commander, v^ho had bravely faced the enemy 



bo Crusade to Europe 



in our late civil war and led whole armies to battle, 
and shot down poor starving prisoners with cold hearted 
pleasure, (in the "Drummer Boy of Shiloh," on the 
stage of one of our Pittsburgh theatres,) his noble 
six feet of manhood laying prostrate on the deck, meek 
and helpless as an innocent little lamb, pleading with 
•' Carlisle " to go down and interview the steward on the 
subject of a sour orange, and laboring under a bad 
attack of the "Ugh's!'' and our famed orator, the Major, 
beside him, with not exactlj'^ an attack of the " Ugh's ! " 
but correspondingi}' as bad of the "Oh! mj^'s ! " He 
who is our pride, our gallant Captain-General, as sick as 
his superior oflicer. 

Tlien there is our friend from St. Louis, the sickest 
man I ever saw in m^^ life, threatening to commit suicide 
b}^ jumping overboard, and his face as long as a politi- 
cian's affidavit. But he was cured this morning. He 
was treading along the deck, swaggering with ever}- 
lurch of the ship, his hand about the centre of his body, 
(we trust onl}^ to pull down his vest ;) but through it all 
the best natured and kindest hearted person possible. 
He went awaj^ forward and engaged the ship's carpenter 
in conversation, mistaking him for the Doctor, related to 
him his feelings. The carpenter said he could soon fix 
him up. Our friend wanted to know how, of course, and 
discovered his mistake in the person he was addressing, 
when Mr. Carpenter brought forth some pine boards, a 
saw -and some nails, and drawing hastily' a coffin on one 
of the boards, said he could make one like that in about 



OF Allegheny Commanderv. 6i 



jive minutes. Sunday was an awful day on our friend 
from St. Louis. He succumbed to the pleadings of the 
Doctor for a "sour orange," and. on returning from the 
interview with the steward, (in fact we were now steward 

de facto ourselves,) we found our friend B from 

Indiana was in reality a philosopher. He was evidently 
near-sighted at that moment, and was intently looking 
down through a scupper-hole, and replied on our inquir- 
ing what he was doing there, and with his face so close 
to the opening, " that he was simply meditating upon the 
m3^steries of naval architecture ; that thej^ would make 
holes in the sides of the vessel, and wondering why the 
sea did not come up through and sink the vessel." 

Then a few steps further on we met our friend C , 

from Colorado, large tears coursing down his cheeks 
from liis large blue eyes, doubtless thinking tenderly of 
home, and we did not stop him to inquire the cause of 
his sadness, fearing that we should start afresh the foun- 
tains of grief. 

Many were the amusing scenes of this Sunday — the 
few persons at the table grabbing for a runaway soup'- 
dish, an escaping plate or cup, or a harum-scarum tumbler 
or goblet that wanted to carry on its own course regard- 
less of the liberties and rights of others. The Comman- 
dery was but poorly represented at table so far as quan- 
tity was concerned ; the officers having fallen in the good 
fight, and we pi'esume that their feelings were that they 
did not care at that time whether all the Grand or Subor- 
dinate Commanderies in Christendom went to wreck or 



62 CkISADK to KlKOl'K 



not; at least judging from the woeful, distressed and 

i 
sorrowful faces of the Em. Commander and Captain- 
General. 

Speaking of the table, one of the most amusing 
scenes occurred tliis da}'^ we have had the pleasure of 
seeing for man}- a day. At our table, and near us, sat a 
gentleman from " Bostmg," who ''couldn't for the 
world, 3^ou know, see how au}' one could wear clean or 
white linen in so vile a place as the City of Pittsburgh," 
and this gentleman of " culchali " has been seasick almost 
all the vo3'age, at least he has been troubled with " con- 
siderable nausea," particularly so on this day, and was 
beyond all question of doubt the best " feeder " within 
our knowledge. So, to use a verj'^ vulgar expression, 
which, nnder the circumstances, we ask our reader to 
pardon, a gentleman from Brooklyn and '' Carlisle " set 
up a base job on him. 

We got him down to the dinner table, which is as a 
rule particularh^ rich and fine on Sunday ; made friends 
with him, sj'mpathizing deeply with him in all of his 
miserable feelings, and having gained his confidence, 
proceeded to prescribe several specific remedies for that 
abomination of abominations, sea sickness. We told 
him his onl}^ reason for his being so afflicted was insuffi- 
ciency' ot eating, — he in the meantime, at all previous 
meals, going directly through the bill of fare as the 
bo3'S of to-da}' do through a commercial college, and 
adopting the tactics of our friend from Indiana — philoso- 
ph}'-, we philosophized with him thush^ : That to fill a 
steamer but three-quarters full in each of her holds, it 



OV Al.LF.CliKNY CiiMMANDKRV. 63 



stood plainly to reason that on putting to sea in that 
condition her cargo in time of rough weather would 
rattle around regardlessly, and give her officers consider- 
able trouble. On the same principle precisely was it 
with a man in sea sickness ; tliat if he ate but little, 
leaving a vacuum in nature's receptacle, and did not 
pack himself tight, his cargo would necessarilj^ flop 
arouud at will, and this constaut churning was the whole 
and onl}- cause of all this terrible nausea and state of 
un-com-for-a-ble-ness ; and to this philosopliy he entirely 
succumbed, perhaps on its vast strength, perhaps on its 
general principles ; and we referred our argument to the 
several medical and clerical gentlemen opposite us, viz. : 
Dr. Wm. M. Herron, Dr. Bittinger and Dr. A. M. Milli- 
gan, whom any fair minded person would consider a 
committee of good authority on either physical or 
spiritual matters, and of course tliQy could not but agree 
with us in our argument ; adding that all the Isaac New- 
ton's were not passed from among us. 

So to-day we sent him almost unto death's door, 
insisting upon him punishing the following list, Avliich 
he did, and it is a fact, too : Two large plates of macca- 
roui soup, (now anyone knows that maccaronl soup is a 
sure cure for sea sickness,) then a large piece of baked 
salmon and three potatoes, (more good cure,) roast beef, 
roast turkey, salmon pie, and palmed off a pork chop for 
a mutton chop, some more potatoes, corn, spinach, and 
some cucumbers, (now we advise all seasick persons to 
eat cucumbers. Oh ! they are a sure remedy!) And all 



64 CKISADK 10 El ROl'K 



those we assisted him to in large doses ; some he did not 
wisii to touch, but liaving tlie gentleman's welfare and 
health at heart, we felt it our dut}^ as a brother man to 
make him a well man. Then we gave liini about half an 
apple i)ie. a lemon tart, a raspberry tart, some rice, jam 
and custard, all on his plate atone time, (these items have 
never been known to fail in effecting a speedj'- and cer- 
tain cure!) The next course we gave hiin almonds, 
filberts, raisins, figs, oranges, and a green apple ; and 
begged to suggest that all that was necessary now to 
settle his sea sickness forever, was a good cup of strong 
cofiee, (and if these things Avouhl n't fetch a man nothing 
under the sun would!) While the coffee was being- 
brought, we suggested as a capital thing to settle the 
stomach for the night, was the taking of a Welsh rarebit 
and a bottle of porter just before retiring, which he said 
he would take tliat evening. We noticed a peculiar gag- 
ging sensation was being carried on by our friend, and 
just before the coffee was served, we mentioned the fact 
of many persons crossing tlie ocean frequentU' without 
having the least unpleasant sensation until reaching the 
coast of Ireland, when we had known the ship to rise 
and fall anywhere ivoxn. forty to seventy-five feet, and you 
should have seen the gentleman get up and leave that 
table when he heard the ^'' seventy five"' feet. Xever 
waited on coffee or said a word, but seizing his shawl 
and cap, was out the door like a streak of lightning, 
amid roars of laughter from our fellow passengers, and 
that was tlie last meal he ate at that table on that 
voyage. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 65 

Amid all these passing scenes, we would not have the 
reader suppose that Allegheny Commandery, on leaving 
home, would forget or neglect her devotions, and as 
there was to be church in the large saloon, the Comman- 
dery was called together by orders at 10 A. M. to answer 
roll call and to attend divine service at 10:30 A. M., and 
the following surviving Sir Knights answered to their 
names: Past Em. Com. William H. Slack and your 
humble servant, " Carlisle." Just think of it ! Here 
were two members of No. 35, now all that were left of the 
good old Commandery, to go down to worship ; there- 
fore being at once E. C, Generalissimo, Capt.-Gen, Treas., 
Recorder, and line officers and privates, at one and the 
same time. The Professor and " Carlisle " accordingly 
linked arms and wended their way down the ladder and 
to the house of devotion. Dr. Abercrombie, of New 
Jersey, read the service, and Dr. Peabody, ex-president 
of Yale College, preached the sermon, which was one 
hour and fifteen minutes in duration, and would have 
been an admirable theological address to students. 

But even in the temple of solemnity we are prone to 
enter the house and portals of mirth and merriment, for 
while the services were being read by Dr. Abercrombie, 
a most amusing thing occurred, and one we shall never 
forget so long as we live. In the beautiful Episcopalian 
service, where the responses are given and chants ren- 
dered by a trained choir, and precisely at those parts, for 
instance, " Good Lord, deliver us," was being responded, 
a couple of distressed parties were out at as many scup- 

E 



66 Crusadk to Elroi'E 



per-lioles, and were evidently gargling their throats for 
some affection therein, and vociferonsl^^ j'elling, " Oh ! 
dear!" '• Oli, my ! " "Ugh!" " New Yorruok! " and 
similar expressions, and fitting in so perfectly at the 
points they did, a titter was started in the worshiping 
congregation, and even our worth}' minister smiled 
rather audibly. After service we made earnest en- 
deavor to find out who it was. The Doctor declared 
it was the Major and the Major as earnestly declared 
it was the Doctor. Personally I am satisfied it was 
the Doctor, for a Methodist minister was at one scup- 
per-hole, and I am certain the Doctor went to the other 
through sympath}^ and kind feeling towards one of 
the same faith and creed, and besides we have since 
then discovered that the Doctor mastered up his cour- 
age to come down and sit with the balance of the 
Commander}', but the aforesaid scupper-hole was as far 
as he reached on his pilgrimage, for the spirit was will- 
ing but his stomach most fearfully weak. 

We would kindl}' sa}- a word here to husbands, that 
you need have no feai* of sending your wives to Europe 
whenever the}^ may desire to make such a trip, for tlie}^ 
will suffer from no lack of attention whatever; and to 
wives, that the}^ need have no fear either that their hus- 
bands, going from their homes, will lose or forget their 
customar\- gallantry. 

We have on board a lady who claims to be the wife 
of a minister, (let us trust that she is mistaken, to put it 
mildly,) from , and a celebrated lawyer, (in his 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 67 

own estimation,) from , who were fun for the mil- 
lion. We happen to have several attorneys on board 

who actually do hail from , and they unanimously 

tally in their report that i\\Qy never before heard of such 
a man as Dr. Well, this gentleman — this cele- 
brated lawyer — was some six feet tall, wore a Dutch cap 
over his riglit eye, and taking him in generally, we have 
frequently in our daily walks in life seen many much 
more handsome men. 

She, Mrs. Minister, was fully four feet nine inches, 
and we have also seen at times ladies who- might be 
termed more beautiful than she, and even be telling the 
truth ; while between the two it was about five parts to 
five parts as to affectation to hear them discussing the 
" solah " system, etc., as in the evening they cosily sat 
nigh unto each other, a warm robe giving its warmth to 
both at the same time. 

This Smiday evening Prof. Slack and " Carlisle," at 
about IIP. M., concluded to go up on deck, after having 
been reading for an hour or so in the saloon, and obtain 
a little fresh air before retiring to our beds of ease 'neath 
eider-down quilts, and we were fully repaid for our inten- 
tions. Having opened the package mentioned earlier in 
this work, we found our friend Joseph H. Elton had 
known our failings and put us up a box of fragrant and 
choice Havanas, and lighting one we meandered towards 
the main deck. On reaching there all was still and silent 
as the grave, no signs of life visible save the watchful 
officer on the bridge as he trod his beat steadily and 



68 Crusade to EuKori-: 



ftiithfullv- We walked slowly towards the smokestack, 
when we uiuntentionally overheard voices, and heard the 
following snggestive and interesting conversation, being 
drawn out in true blue Yankee style : 

Mrs. Minister was saying " She did not know what 
love was ; " to which came the reply : " A h ! dear ; can 
it be possible you have not felt the tender touch upon 
the heart's sensitive chords — that you do not know what 
love is? Two souls with but a single thought two 
hearts that beat as one. Ah ! my ! could n't you love 

me, and teach your little D to love me ? '' (referring 

to the little daughter of Mrs. Minister.) She said " She 
could not quite comprehend the full import of his 
tender words ; " and tlien, giving her a very warm 
embrace, he said: "Never mind, dear; have faith in 
God and all will come out right." Yes, and then through 
the day might have been seen this gentleman and lady, sit- 
ting side by side, bibles in hand, reading chapter after 
chapter aloud. And then the Professor spoiled the 
whole job by sa3dng, "What a good cigar that was ! " 
and of course the whole jig was up, and the Romeo and 
Juliet scene was knocked into " pi ; " and as the curtain 
fell we had passed over Sunday and our fifth day out. 

Monday, July 8th, the rolling had ceased consider- 
ably, nothing but a good swell being on the sea; pleasant, 
and aside from the pastimes engaged in, nothing occur- 
red of much interest, save one little item, and which, by 
the way, was the cause of the formation of the " Quar- 
tette." At the head of our table sat a oentleman whose 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 69 

name we have already mentioned, veiy sedate and 
reserved in his manners, always by himself, seemed to 
have no particular company, was always prim and spruce, 
as though he spent the major portion of his life on ship- 
board in the dressing-room. Tliis afternoon we observed 
him leave the deck, and an hour or so later we happened 
to look over the railing to the quarter-deck, and observed 
this stately and erect personage smoking a cigar, clean 
shaven, a tender cane in his gloved hand, come saunter- 
ing down from the saloon stairway ; the vessel was roll- 
ing considerabh^, when suddenly along came a great 
lieav3^ swell, struck the side of the ship, careened her a 
little, when over came a ton or so of water, and doused 
w^io ? — -why it was our friend the Colonel — through from 
head to foot, leaving him almost a total wreck ; his 
collar hung about his neck as a piece of twine, his cigar 
had gone to fool some of the little fishes, while water 
oozed from the tops of his gaiters with every mrotion of 
his foot. He was, as usual, cool as a cucumber, to use 
an aged expression ; made a calm and deliberate retreat 
to his quarters, and reappeared soon after in his former 
dress. We had the laugh on him ; he bore it all good- 
naturedly and soldierly, and from that moment the 
*' Quartette " was formed. 

We have one other person to whom we wish to pay our 
respects, and he gets completely away with anything we 
have yet met in our travels, far or near. Our party has 
still many on its sick list, "Carlisle" being the only 
representative of the " Quartette " appearing at the 



70 Crusade 'lo Europk 



table, the remainder taking tiieir provender on deck. 
'IMiis gentleman to whom we refer, is sick ; 3-es, very 
sick. He wears a heavy 'double shawl, is suffering 
severely from a disorganized liver, a stomach which 
refuses to perform its usual functions, and a bad dose of 
dyspepsia', (sq he says, but do the facts bear him out ?) 

The deck steward comes around, and takes the orders 
of those eating on deck ; this gentl-eman with the others 
gives his order ; the dinner bell rings ; he goes down to 
the saloon and punishes a fair dinner there, commencing, 
say with soup, and winding up with plum pudding. On 
arriving on deck, the steward is about delivering the 
orders, and this poor, ill being makes away with this 
dinner also, and then it is a daily and usual occurrence to 
hear him say " Doctor, do you wish that piece of beef on 
your plate ? " or, " Major, can I haA^e that piece of tart^ 
if you are through with it ? " "Well, we profess to be 
something on appetite, but we have never been answered 
in our praj^er to have just such a liver and stomach and 
case of dj^spepsia as has this gentleman with the shawl. 

Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday the ocean had 
again become as an inland river. Schools of porpoises 
plaj^ed about the bow of the steamer, and no item of 
interest occurred to vary the dull monoton}^ of ship-board 
life, other than the more frequent sighting of steamers 
and sailing vessels. 

Friday morning. July 12th, we are up bright and early; 
it is raining very hard, and we are hugging the smoke- 
stack closel}', endeavoring to keep warm, and waiting 



OF Allegheny Commander y. 71 



patientl}^ to sight land. A hea\y fog is down and around 
us; we go down and have our breakfast, and, coming up, 
we find the fog lifting, and sud<lenly our hearts are grati- 
fied by the cry from the look-out, "Land ahead, on the 
port bow, sir ! " We look, and away in the distance we 
see the breakers. The rain is now ceasing, the inisty cur- 
tain is lifting, and lo ! there is the beautiful and green 
"Emerald Isle," and happy are Ave to see it ; all the sick 
are as a miracle made well and whole, and we are all 
pleased that we are to plant foot first on the sod of good, 
grand and beautiful " Old Ireland." We are now passing 
at no great distance the " Skeilliff Rocks." 




72 Crusade to Europe 



^<^iie'^ Mo. S. 

The Pilgrims landed at Queensto-wn. — Their First 
Trouble on Ireland's Green Sod. — Attempts at 
Smuggling. — Reception in Cork. — In Trouble again 
in a Barber Shop. — A Ilo"w with a Hotel Proprie- 
tor. — Blarney Castle. — Shandon Church. — Incidents 
by the Way. 

C^S stated in the preceding letter, we were passing the 
" Skeillig Rocks." . Some of our party had not yet 
had their morning meal, when some one would come 
up, and, smacking his lips, say, " Porridge; go down and 
have some porridge ! " to which would come the unani- 
mous and echoing reply from the aforesaid watchers, in a 
tone of voice pitched to high E flat, " No ! Get thee to a 
Nunnery ^1 thou base serf ; we will have no porridge, give 
us land, tliat's what we want, and lots of it." 

So far as the writer was concerned, he knew his dut^' 
to the pantry, and to himself, had been faithfully per- 
formed, as also on the part of the Colonel — in short, on 
the eating line they had worked out their passages — but 
we exceedinglj^ regretted that he of "Absolom's locks," 
and he of the " dentistrj- profession," had not carried out 
their parts of the programme so well. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 



Slowl}^ and cautiously we are now steaming along, as 
the fog has thickened again, being now quite dense, and 
we obtain but a glimpse of Pastnet Rock and Light 
House, and then we see no more of land until 10 A. M- 
Old Sol, who evidently is our friend, has been earn- 
estly endeavoring to come through and show us the 
" Emerald Isle,", suddenly breaks through, his bright 
rays penetrating and scattering the mist and fog, which 
lifts as a drop curtain, and there away on our left are the 
beautiful green fields of Old Ireland, all divided and sub- 
divided by the neat, pretty, green hedges that prevail 
throughout all the British kingdom. 

Away up some charming miniature valley we see the 
little villages dotted here and there, while, as we 
approach some projecting point, we see a pretty little 
" thatched cottage by the sea," It is a truly beautiful 
approach to land along the southern coast of Ireland, 
where you have more of the mild scenery, in striking 
contrast to that of the north coast of that island, which 
is very rough, rugged and formidable, being high rock- 
bound all the way in to Moville or the Giants' Causeway. 
It has turned out one of the loveliest of da3'S, to which we 
could conscientiously make but one little exception, and 
that, a little too warm for true comfort ; the decks are 
pileU high with portmanteaus, small trunks, large trunks, 
young trunks, old trunks, boxes, Saratogas, chests, hand 
satchels, traveling-bags, valises, and dear only knows 
what a,ll ; while everything around us is bustle and 
activity, friend chatting with newly-made friend, hopings 



74 Crusade to Europe 



to meet again, exchanging cards, and general invitations 
to '• be sure to come and see us," &c., are heard all 
around ; but we do not believe one solitary individual 
looking down at the deck of the ship that had carried us 
safely over, and wiping away tlie feeling of dampness 
fiom the eyes, said: "Oh, deck, must we from tliee 
part?" " Shall I ne'er more tread thee again ? " No ! 
but '' Get thee behind me or below me, deck ; go down to 
stateroom 16*7 and remain there, oh, deck! and as quick 
as possible, too." 

About 1:30 P. M. we were almost at the entrance to 
the beautiful harbor of Cork, when we saw approaching 
us rapidl}^, a little tug, which soon came alongside, and 
on her we embarked ; and as we left the side of the 
steamer three cheers were given her, three loud and lust}^ 
cheers and a " tiger" for the beautiful and pure flag, the 
American stars and stripes, floating gracefully and beauti- 
fully from the foremast of the " Russia,". and a genuine 
hearty " sky-rocket " for our fellow voyagers remaining 
on the steamer to disembark at Liverpool, which was 
given with such a hearty good-will from thirty-eight 
pairs of sound and solid lungs, that caused' the " red 
coats " in the forts at the entrance to the harbor, to 
imagine the Spanish fleet was chasing Sir Admiral 
Drake's ghost into to where his body some j^ears before 
had gone — at least we saw them mount their guns and 
prepare at once for action. 

As we parted company with the steamer, we found on 
board Dr. E. T. Bricknell and a committee of Free 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 75 

Masons in waiting to welcome us to the hospitalities and 
courtesies of the fraternity, as well as to Ireland's 
charming shores ; and anyone can imagine the feelings 
of each and every one of us, going ashore, where but 
one or two of the party had ever been before, and not 
knowing a solitary soul, perhaps, anj'where on that 
island, j^et by the strong and binding chain of universal 
brotherhood, we were given a warm grasp of the hand, 
which betokened us as being at once among true and 
dear friends. 

The Inman steamer " City of Richmond," was laying 
at anclior, receiving mails and passengers, preparatory to 
sailing for the United States, and through the courtesy 
and kindness of custom house officials, we were allowed 
to jump ashore and run to the post ofllce with a ton or 
so of mail for home, and by this means of getting it on 
board the " Richmond," we saved some three or four 
days' time. 

The custom house officials, sworn to do their duty, 
commenced operations on our arrival at the pier, and of 
course are not so strict in their searches as on oar side 
of the water. Tlie first examined was the luggage of 
one holding the highest office in the gift of Allegheny 
Commandery, and who with " Carlisle," was booked for 
the identical trip and room-mate on our tour. " Any 
firearms, tobacco, spirits, or books ? " was the question 
put to our Eminent Commander, and in liis usual 
emphatic manner, came the honest reply, " No, sir." 
The man from some reason or other, we presume being a 



76 Crusade to Europe 



poor judge of human nature, took his word and chalked 
it " passed ;" but, oh ! if he liad known what we knew, if 
he had gone through that baggage, that contained some 
contraband stuff of an unmentionable nature, and opened a 
package tied up in a manner to deceive, in fact it strik- 
ingly resembled a large pair of United States signal 
corps field-glasses, and he could not be suspected of 
duplicity in saying it was such a described article, in his 
carrying two pair, for he had given " Carlisle," innocent 
as he was of this piece of fraud, the pair to carry he was 
presented with in New York, so that he could the better 
carry out his scheme of smuggling. We fear we would 
have been short an Eminent Commander, had we told all 
we knew ; and despite the great wrong that was being- 
done Her Britannic Majesty and her government, it was 
the polic}^ for us to be " mum," for as stated I was his 
room-mate, he six feet nine, I five feet five. Oh, no ; it 
was strictly our business to keep quiet, and we always 
like to leave other people's business entirely to them- 
selves, and attend to our own, and in this instance partic- 
ularly did we do it. We will say this, that the package 
whatever it contained, remained unopened from the date 
of leaving to that of our returning home, so that perhaps 
my own imaginations may have probably led me adrift 
in my conclusions, the only thing was the fact of how 
carefully that satchel was always handled. We got 
along all right, however, until the ofllcers came to a 
chapeau box and some satchels, marked in bold letters, 
" G. S. H.," which may stand foi " Great San Hedrim," 
but at any rate these satchels were opened, and the officer 



OF Allegheny Commandkry. 77 

in charge again put the direct question, "Any firearms, 
spirits, tobacco, or books in your possession ? " To 
which came, I have no question of doubt, the truthful 
answer, " No, sir ; I have not." The officer looked 
searchingly and curiously at the proprietor of the bag- 
gage marked " G. S. H.," and the proprietor of the bag- 
gage marked " G. S. H.," looked as sejj^rchingl}' and 
curiously at him, when we all became highly interested 
in this somewhat novel and unexplained " go-as-you- 
please" staring match, and the question was again put 
directly and pointedly, " Any firearms, spirits, tobacco, 
or books in your possession, particularly tobacco?" 
"No, sir ; I have not," came the still more decided and 
emphatic reply. All gathered around our nonplussed Sir 
Knight and fellow frater, looks of determination settling- 
down upon every face — hands were being clinched, and 
motions made towards that pocket in which some gentle- 
men carry their handkerchiefs, and where others carry 
something else, not strictly speaking handkerchiefs — in 
all of which could be read the stern avowal, that if the 
worst came to the worst, that we would just topple that 
and all other custom house officials overboard, capture the 
steamer, and especially the chalk, and pass any and all 
baggage we saw fit. Before, however, resorting to such 
violent and extreme measures, we inquired of the officer 
what was the cause of all tliis looking, and staring, and 
gaping between he and our friend. He replied that 
this man, pointing to the sole proprietor of the baggage 
marked " G. S. H.," has said " he had no dutiable goods 
in his possession, and he feared he was endeavoring to 



78 Crusade to Europe 



smuggle, from the fact of his having two cigars in his 
mouth at one and the same time." After much exertion 
we finally convinced this scrutinous and watchful officer 
that he was laboring under a very vague and serious mis- 
take, that he was totally in error, that what he supposed 
to be two cigars, were only and reall}- the two ends of 
our friend's^ waxed moustache, which by some peculiar 
and mysterious method, have been taught to project out- 
wardly instead of along the lip and cheek like other 
Christian moustaches, and so with this narrow escape 
from detention, which was our first trouble or ajmoyance 
of anj^ kind we were permitted to depart in peace. 

We neglected to mention a very gratifying little inci- 
dent that occurred prior to our leaving the steamer 
" Russia." About a dozen or so of us were standing up 
about the foremast, chatting pleasantly over the ocean 
trip, when Rev. Dr. Milligan, one of Allegheny's most 
honored and respected clergymen, came forward. We 
had drifted into a warm discussion on the subject of 
liquors for medicinal purposes, for the stomach's sake, 
&e., when Dr. Milligan paid the party a very great and 
appreciated compliment, when he said, " Gentlemen, I 
have crossed the Atlantic quite a number of times, and 
have been away from home with quite a number of par- 
ties on excursions, but it gives me the utmost pleasure to 
say here, as I shall take frequent occasion to say on my 
return home, that I have never seen any party where less 
liquor was drank, and where everyone in the party was 
so uniformly gentlemanly." Such a remark was thor- 
oughly appreciated, and though the writer was a member 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 79 

of that party, we trust his evidence will also be admitted 
when he bears testimony to the remarks of our friend 
Dr. Milligan. 

At 2:30 P. M. we were ashore in Queenstown, a pretty 
little town on the south side of Ireland, originally called 
Cove, but receiving its present appellation, from the 
visit of Her Majesty Queen Yictoria, in 1849. It is 
situated on the side of a hill commanding a charming 
view of the harbor we have just entered, and is frequent- 
ed much b^^ invalids, owing to its salubrious climate. 
There is a very handsome Protestant church and 
Catholic cathedral here, also a very fine hotel, the 
Queen'' s^ but as our guide, C. P. Cooper, Esq., of Dun- 
dalk, Ireland, now has us in charge, and as we are due in 
Cork tliat evening we cannot remain long here, so we 
move in a body to the station near at hand ; and this 
was attended with its little incidents too. 

Immediately on landing, we were literally besieged 
with the inevitable " Shamrock" women, these being- 
dressed in short petticoats or gowns, wearing " mutches " 
or white muslin and lace caps, in bare feet, with shoulder 
shawls strapped crosswise on their bodies, and they mean 
business " first, last and all the time." "Arrah, now, buy 
a wee bit o' the sliamrock, dear." " Take a wee bit o' it 
wid yez, now." " God bless yez, me darlints, and its to 
Ireland yez are come.'' "Arrah, now, as 3^ez are just fresh 
over, take a wee bit o' Ireland's green emblem wid yez;" 
or " Have some o' the nice fresh gooseberries," and so on, 
and they are like hungry leeches for holding on to you ; 



8o Crusade to Europe 



there is no shaking them off, and 3-011 can, if you wish 
draw down upon your head the richest blessings of heaA'en, 
according to the manner in wliicli you draw upon 3'our 
exchequer for the purchase " o' the shamrock," or j^ou 
can have your " sowl " cheerfully wished, with expressive 
and strongly qualifying adjectives, to places in which it is 
said there is no use for linen suits, and where water is at 
a heavy premium, by refusing to invest in any of theii 
wares. 

But, having run the gauntlet through this mob, we 
finally arrived at the depot, and taking the 3 P. M. train, 
are on our way to Cork, passing through a most beautiful 
country, following the liver from the Harbor of Cork to 
the city of the same name. The Harbor of Cork is one 
of the largest and most commodious in the United King- 
dom, and capable of affording shelter to the entire British 
Navy. Of the scenery on the river, Arthur Young says, 
that "the country on the harbor he thought preferable in 
many respects to anything in Ireland ;" and Sir John 
Forbes thinks " it would be difficult to over-praise the 
beauty of the river from Queenstown to Cork, or the 
magnificent harbor or inland bay in which it terminates, 
more especially when these are seen under the influence 
of a briglit sun and a brilliant sky. * * * * Indeed, 
every element of beauty that can mingle in such a scene 
seems to be here comprised j * * * * Water of a 
color and purity of the sea, lofty barriers on either side, 
covered with rich woods, and intermingled with green, 
park-like fields and shining villas * * * And tlie whole 
animated and, as it were, humanized, by the peopled 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 8i 

steamers sweeping up and down, the boats and yachts 
pulling about, and a ship or two at anchor in every little 
bay that opened out upon our course." 

Dr. Scott, of Queenstown, writes, that "the salubrity 
of the climate is such that it has been chosen as a resi- 
dence by many invalids who would otherwise have sought 
the far-off scenes of Montpelier or Madeira, with their 
vehement Junes, and less tempei'ate vicissitudes of 
climate." 

It is also an interesting fact to note, that the Rev. 
Charles Wolfe, author of the incomparable lines on the 
" Burial of Sir John Moore," beginning : 

"Not a drum was heard, nor a funeral note," 
who died in 1823, of consumption, lies interred on Great 
Island. 

We arrived in Cork at 4.10 P. M., and were driven at 
once to the Imperial Hotel, and at this time we stumbled 
across some of the most amusing incidents of our trip, 
amusing for the time being, but one proved almost a 
little annoying, as we shall see later. 

As already shown, the steamer " Russia " was not 
prolific of bath rooms, and we were by this time feeling 
badly the need of free bath houses, or a tub of au}^ de- 
scription, and fearing to shave on board ship, our beards 
had become somewhat similar to a prophet's, for a warn- 
ing to us was in the case of the Major, who was always 
busy at the primping process, gave a steward a shilling 
for cutting him quite a gash 'neath the chin ; a man may 
know all about waiting on a table, but knoAv nothing of 
shaving, as was the case in this instance. 



82 Crusade to Europe 

The " Doctor " and " Carlisle " boldly sallied forth in 
search of a " House of Tubs," and a barber shop, feeling- 
somewhat as a Federal street jeweler, of Teutonic origin, 
and a friend of ours, felt, when walking over one of the 
bridges which form the connecting links between the two 
cities, in company with another friend of us both. Our 
friend incidentally remarked, " What a good institution 
these free bath houses were," pointing to one laying on the 
'wharf on the Pittsburgh side, " that they were so good for 
the poor and working man, coming home from his hard 
iioil, besmeared with dirt and smoke, to step in and take a 
'bath in the evening," which brought from our jeweler the 
somewhat astonishing and amusing reply, " Path ! Path ! 
I not path me for seventeen 3' ears!" and we felt a little 
that way ourselves, though not quite so bad in years of 
lack of ablutions. 

Passing along one of the principal streets, we could 
■see no red and white and variegated barber poles or 
boxes, but finally observed a sign " Thomas Moriarty, 
Hair Dresser and Perfumer to His Royal Highness the 
Prince of Wales." Now in democratic America, we are 
not prone to run after and knuckle at the shrine of "blue 
blood," &c., still, when we read that sign, its length, its 
breadth, its meaning, our hearts fluttered a little, and we 
said, "Ah ! has it come to this ? Are we poor American 
Sovereigns to sit in a chair where, perhaps, has been 
seated the heir apparent to the British throne, (may be ?)" 
and, gladdened by this thought, led away by vanity, 
thinking we had stolen a long march on the remainder of 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 83 

the party, we wandered into this man Moriarty's, to sit 
in this seat, if only that, and have our faces lathered by 
the same brush, our faces shaved by the same razor, our 
moustaches pomaded with the same stick, our hair pasted 
and brushed a la H. R. H. P. of W., and with fear and 
trembling we ventured in, fearing that august personage, 
H. R. H. P. of W., might be there then, and we, by no 
means, in full court dress. 

We found a room about four feet by nine, a long 
bench, at the side of which was a table with a very large 
and elegant mirror three inches by five ; on the table lay 
a piece of kitchen soap about the size and thickness of a 
silver half dollar, an old strop, and a tin cup for lather ; 
on a little bench on the other side of the room were a 
shoemaker's hammer, a brad-awl, a chisel, a watchmaker's 
implement, a blacksmith's tools, and I don't know what 
else. In this room sat a little old woman, a " mutch " on 
her head, and puffing away at a "cutty" pipe. We 
inquired for the barber and were informed "he had just 
stepped over the way to get a drink." We ventured 
forth much more boldly than we ventured in, with our 
minds fully made up that H. R. H. P. of W. could 
monopolize the whole of that hair dressing and perfum- 
ing establishment, so far as we were concerned. We did 
not care of partaking in any of it ; we would rather go 
back to Pittsburgh with beards trailing on the ground as 
they were now almost doing, than have a man go at us 
with a brad-awl, ft chisel, a mallet, and watchmaker's 
pinchers. 



84 Crusade to Europe 



"If at first you don't succeed, then try, try again." 
Remembering this school-boy motto, we tried again, and 
finally succeeded in finding a shop at last, where they 
backed our heads up against the wall, and gave us in the 
language of the " Post,^' our good Democratic newspaper 
friend of Pittsburgh, an " alleged " shave. " Alleged " 
is good, it has let us out many times for a libel suit. 

Here again our friend, he of the curious moustache, 
was in a serious squabble with the barber, each doubting 
the other's veracity, for we arrived there just in time to 
hear the tonsorial artist requesting the proprietor of the 
baggage mar]\;ed Gr. S. H. to remove those toothpicks, as 
he possibly could not shave a man having a mouthful of 
toothpicks, and it was again necessary for us to pledge 
our words that he was telling the truth, the whole truth, 
and nothing but the truth, when insisting they were not 
toothpicks but were only the ends of his unchristianlike 
moustache . 

After being scraped, for we could call it nothing- 
else, we went in quest of a printer's office, having a little 
work to be done, and, stepping into one — a Mr. Ache- 
son's, on Greorge street — showed a sample of what we 
wanted ; he politely informed us he could not do it, that 
he had not the facilities, but, putting on his hat, leaving 
a customer, his business and his store in charge of his 
little daughter, eight to ten years of age, said he could 
show us where we could and did have our work done. 
From the copy we had shown him, he discovered we 
belonged to the party of visiting Sir Knights to Ireland, 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 85 

and on our way to the printer's, in true, genuine Irisli- 
man style, not, as in this countrj^, from the love ol 
drink, but out of kindly feeling, and a kind heart, he 
insisted on our going in and "taking something," but 
owing to our being absolutely and strictly temperate, 
we were obliged to decline with thanks. 

We found the printer, gave him our order, asked 
him when it would be done, and he said in about a week. 
We told him we left the city on the following day at 
2:30, and would want it by 12 o'clock. We told him in 
America the circuses, theatres, combinations, &c., when 
traveling, just gave their orders for several thousand 
posters and programmes, and by the time the troupe 
had finished their dinners the printer had his work in 
the cars, his bill receipted, and looking for another job. 
We take the credit of stirring up those good people of 
Cork, and having had done the quickest piece of 
" comp." ever performed in that good city. 

Returning to the hotel, it was now a little late — 6:45 
P. M., and Table d'Hote was at 6:15 sharp — but owing 
to our delays we were unable to reach the hotel sooner, 
and here we had a funny experience. Feeling fresh 
from our bath and " wash-up," we walked lightly and 
briskly up to the Coffee Room, as they call their dining- 
rooms, and were about to enter the door, seeing all our 
party comfortably seated there, our teeth watered for 
some of the good things borne by the table; and having 
had nothing to eat since leaving the "Russia," we do 
not put it too strongly when we say we were desperately 



86 Crusade to Europe 



hungry, but just as we were about to enter, a portly 
" Chief Butler " with a pair of indispensable black trou- 
serloons, low cut black vest with coral buttons, spike- 
tail coat, moustache and goatee black as crows, and 
faultlessly waxed, hair curled up, excelling in that 
regard, we fear, even our own Absalom, the Major's 
raven hair, the admiration of all our part}^ This " Chief 
Butler," who is always a better man than the proprietor^ 
came at us with, we are not sure whether it was a fly- 
brush or a young table cloth, and endeavored to "shoo" 
us out of the door; and there he stood, to our amaze- 
ment, his arras extended and flapping like a victorious 
barnyard fowl, crying, " Shoo ! Shoo ! ! Shoo ! ! ! " 
"Can't get dinner here now, Shoo! Shoo!! Shoo!!!" 
But we struck an attitude, knowing full well the eyes 
of the multitude were upon us, as they sat around the 
richly laden table, enjoying, we may very vulgarly say, 
piggishly, the good things of this life and our misfortune 
and predicament-, while the Colonel deliberately and 
tauntingly held aloft the " walker " of a fowl, which 
goaded us to despair. When we struck the afore-men- 
tioned attitude, the " Chief Butler " sobered down a 
little, but was still somewhat excited, crying " Three 
causes over — soup, fish and chops all done ! " " You 
will haA^e to go down stairs and get your dinner." We 
looked him defiantly in the face, told him not to whisper, 
not to say another word ; we wanted to know if he knew 
what our stomachs wanted before he had seen us ; that 
neither of us so far had asked him for any soup, fish 
or chops, and that if anyone had told him we did, he 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 87 

had informed him of what was a base fabrication and 
perversion of the trutli ; that we would not eat soup if 
it was put down before us in vats, that we never ate 
cliops under any consideration, and as for fish, we simply 
abhori'ed it; that for others, we cared not what they might 
do, but as for us, give us just a good piece of beef and 
potatoes, or give us death just at that time. All-4his, 
we will now state, was a deliberate falsehood to His Royal 
Highness, the " Chief Butler," for inwardly we felt we 
would have given half our wealth for a good dish of each 
of the above-mentioned articles of food, but we could 
not possibly allow H. R. H., C. B. to make away with us 
in that manner, especially on the last thirty or forty 
courses of dinner, to sacrifice three at the first. Oh ! but 
he was mad ; blood was on the fac6, not of the moon, but 
of H. R. H., the C. B. But we made our point, and were 
soon as busily engaged as those who had simplj^ gone 
before, and we were permitted to finish our repast in 
peace. 

At 8 P. M. this Friday evening, a committee called 
and escorted us to their Masonic rooms, where we visited 
Lodge of Ireland No. 1, the oldest Free Mason Lodge 
in Ireland, their Masonic charter being given them in 
1T31, making them at the time of our visit almost one 
hundred and fifty years old. They have some intensely 
interesting relics and antiquities ; for instance, they have 
a bible on their table printed in the year 1526, and many 
ancient letters, demits and documents, coming down from 
age after age of ancestry to their present membership. 
They have also a very handsome portrait, done in oil, of 



88 Crusade to Europe 



Lady Aldsworth, the onl}^ woman Mason the world ever 
knew, and it might be interesting to know how she came 
to be made a member of tlie craft, which we take from a 
little pamphlet entitled, "Memoirs of the Life of the 
Hon. Mrs. Aldsworth, the only female who ever obtained 
the honor of initiation in the sublime m^'steries of Free- 
masonry ;" a little work which was printed and prepared 
for onr fellow Crusaders of '71. 

" The Hon. Mrs. Aldsworth was second daughter of 
Arthur St. Leger, Lord Y. Doneraile and Baron Kil- 
meaden, by Eliza Hayes, daughter of John Hayes of 
Winchelsea, in the count}^ of Sussex, Esq., * * * 
The family is very ancient and honorable. Her ancestor, 
Sir Anthony St. Leger, of the county of Kent, Knight 
of the Garter, ' unus nobilium secretiorist Gaviaroe Begis,^ 
succeeded Sir William Brereton as Lord Deputy of Ire- 
land, in the reign of Henrj^ YIII, and was sworn July 
25th, 1540, at Christ Church, Dublin, in the form follow- 
ing, and was five times Lord Deputy or Lieutenaut dur- 
ing that and the succeeding reigns, and died in the reign 
of Queen Mary, March 12th, 1559, at Ulcomb, in Kent, 
the ancient seat of the family : 

" You shall swear that you shall faithfullj^ and truly 
to your power, serve our Sovereign Lord, the King's 
Majestic, in the room and authority of Lord Deputy and 
Chief Governor of this his realm of Ireland, you shall 
maintain and defend the laws of God and the Christian 
faith. You shall to your power, not only keep his 
Msjestie's peace amongst his people, but also maintain 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 89 



his officers and ministers in tlie execution and adminis- 
tration of justice. You sliall defend liis Majestie's cas- 
tles, garrisons, dominions, people and subjects of this 
realm, and repress his rebels and enemies. You shall 
not consent to the damage and disherizen of his Majesty, 
his heirs or successors ; neither shall you suffer the right 
of the crown to be destroj^ed in any way, but shall let it 
to 3'our power; and if you cannot let the same, you shall 
certifie his Majesty clearly and expressly thereof. You 
shall give 3'our true and faithful council for the King's 
Majestie's profit, and his Highness' council you shall con- 
ceal and keep ; all other things for the preservation of 
his Majestie's realm of Ireland, the peace amongst his 
people, the execution of his justice, according to his 
Majestie's laws, usages and customs, of this his High- 
ness' realm, you shall perform and do your power * * * 
^^ Council of Trent, Folio 392. | Borlaoe." 

Eliza Hayes, the subject of this sketch, was married 
to Richard Aldsworth, of Newmarket, in the count^^ of 
Cork, of a highly respected and ancient family, long- 
celebrated for their hospitalities and other virtues, and 
now deriving additional honor from this lady's liaving 
been the only female who was ever initiated in the 
ancient and honorable mysteries of Free Masonry. * * 
She was a w'oman of model virtue, sweetened and adorned 
by all the amiable qualities that grace and dignif3'^ the 
female character. 

Lord Doneraile, Mrs. Aldsworth's father, who was a 
very zealous Mason, held a warrant in his own hands, 



90 Crusade to Europe 



and occasionally opened Lodge at Doneraile House, his 
sons and some intimate friends in the neighborhood as- 
sisting ; and, it is said, never were the Masonic duties 
more rigidly performed, or the business of the Craft more 
sincerely pursued, than by the brethren of No. 150, the 
number of their warrant. 

It appears that previous to the initiation of a gentle- 
man to the first steps in Freemasonry, Mrs. Aldsworth, 
who was then a young girl, happened to be in an apart- 
ment adjoining the room usually used as a lodge room, 
this room at the time undergoing some repair and altera- 
tion ; amongst other things, the wall was considerably 
reduced in one part for the purpose of making a saloon. 
The young lady having distinctly heard voices, and 
prompted by the curiosity natural to all to see somewhat 
of this mystery, so long and so secretly locked up from 
public view, she had the courage, with her scissors, to 
pick a brick from the wall, and actually witnessed the 
awful and mysterious ceremony through the two first 
steps. Curiosity gratified, fear at once took possession of 
her mind, and those who understand this passage well 
know what the feelings must be of any person who could 
have the same opportunity of unlawfully beholding that 
ceremon3^ Let them then judge what must be the feel- 
ings of a 3'Oung girl. She saw no mode of escape, but 
through the very room where the concluding part of the 
second step was still performing, and that being at the 
far end, and the room a very large one. She had again 
resolution sufficient to attempt her escape that way, and 
with light but trembling step, and almost suspended 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 91 

breath, she glided along unobserved by the lodge, laid 
her hand on the handle, and softly opening the door,, 
before her stood a grim and surly Tyler, with his long 
rusty sword. Her shriek alarmed the lodge, who all 
rushed to the door, and on finding out from the Tyler 
that she had been in the room during all the ceremony^ 
in the first paroxysm of rage, it is said, her death was 
resolved on, but that from the moving and earnest suppli-^ 
cations of her youngest brother her life was spared, on 
condition of her going through the two steps she had 
already seen. This was agreed to, and they conducted 
the young, beautiful and terrified creature through those 
trials which are sometimes more than enough for mascu- 
line resolution, little thinking they were taking into the 
bosom of their Craft a member that would afterwards- 
reflect a lustre on the annals of Masonr3^ 

Mrs. Aldsworth is said not to have possessed that con- 
struction of countenance which ma}' claim the appellation 
of very beautiful, but a certain air of dignity to which 
the benevolence of her heart and sweetness of her natural 
disposition, more than compensated the deficiency. 

It was a countenance that gave encouragement to the 
unfortunate to put in their petitions, and assurances that 
their distress would be alleviated. Having, however, ob- 
tained the foregoing particulars from persons who only 
knew this lady in the last years of her life, what she 
might have been in her youth we can only obtain from 
her portrait, which, though taken at an advanced period, 
still retains, if not the semblance of beauty, the traita 



92 Crusade to Europe 



and lineaments of a fine countenance, only a little shaken 
and defaced by time. Though the memory of Mrs. Aids- 
worth's beauty ma}^ have passed away, which, in a long 
life of eighty years is no improbable conjecture, and 
though the bloom and charms of the young St. Leger 
may be sought for in the countenance of our benevolent 
sister, the almost divine character which it pleased heaven 
to stamp upon her uncommon mind, has left so many 
memorials behind, that to doubt this part of her history 
must be blind incredulity- The truth is, her heart and, 
hand, ever open to the sufferings and to the claims of 
sorrow and distress, almost prevented supplication by 
their promptitude to relieve, nor let it be supposed this 
spirit of beneficence circumscribed a circle around its 
action, or confined its influence ; no, for though her 
brethren in distress had the first claims on her liberality, 
it was not the less open or less bountiful to the unen- 
lightened. Best of women ; mother to the motherless, 
friend to the friendless, benignant and generous soul, 
who from the bosom of affluence did'st hear the wretches' 
cry, and would fly from the table of comfort to bear com- 
fort to the hovel of wretchedness, and wipe the unobtru- 
sive tear from the eye of retired misery. 

In the active gratification of her hospitable and be- 
nevolent heart, she did not, however, neglect altogether 
the duties of the Craft. She was, (as far as she went,) a 
most exemplary member and Mason, and has presided as 
Master of her lodge, which she headed frequentl}'^ in 
Masonic order of procession, and it was her custom on 



OF Allegheny Commanuery. 93 

tliose occasions to precede the lodge in an open phseton. 
* * * * One circumstance, before we conclude, de- 
serves notice, as it is a handsome lesson to those wlio 
boast the superiority of manly discretion and understand- 
ing, and yet err in this particular, Mrs. A. had such a 
veneration for Masonry that she would never suffer it to 
be lightly spoken of in her hearing, nor would she touch 
on the subject but with the greatest caution in company 
even with her most intimate friends whom she did not 
know to be Masons, and when she did it was under evi- 
dent embarrassment, and a trembling apprehension lest 
she may in a moment of inadvertence commit a breach of 
Masonic duty. . Thus lived this pattern of female excel- 
lence, we had almost said human perfection, dispensing 
like a principle of good, comfort and happiness to all 
around her, till He that gave thought proper to call her 
away to participate in the joys of His eternal kingdom. 
Her death, it is said, was occasioned by the imprudent 
use of laudanum in a slight indisposition. We cannot con- 
clude this sketch better than by giving a paragraph which 
appeared in a print of the day, on occasion of her death : 

" On Monday last, died at ISTewmarket, in this county, 
the Hon. Mrs. Aldsworth, the wife of Richard Aldsworth, 
Esq., M. P. She lived to the age of eighty, and such 
were the effects of her early education under the good 
Lord Doneraile, her father, and her own happy disposi- 
tion, that from her infancy there passed not a day which 
might not have been distinguished by some one act of 
her benevolence or charity. She lived for the most part 



94 Crusade to Europe 



of her time in the countiy in the midst of her tenants, 
to wliom her house afforded the most cheerful liospitality. 
The meanest of them wlien tlieir wants required it, had 
access to her, and when the indigent or sick called upon 
her she never failed to dispense her favors with that 
bounty and humanity which a large fortune enabled her, 
and a still larger soul induced her to bestow. Indeed, 
heaven seemed to have appointed her guardian of the 
poor, whom she relieved without ostentation. She pos- 
sessed the fairest sentiments of religion, and as if the 
manner of her death was rheant as an anticipation of 
that happiness which awaited her, she spent in slumber 
her last hours, those hours so very dreadful in the gen- 
eral, without the least pain or opposition, her mind quite 
disengaged from the world in which she did her own 
duty, whilst the tears and lamentations of thousands 
about her expressed their feelings for their kind benefac- 

■|"VpQG " ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ '•' 

Having spent considerable time in examination of the 
relics and antiquities which were carefully explained to 
us by our brethren of No. 1, T. C. Cooper, the Provin- 
cial Deputy Grand Master, was called to the chair, and 
the evening was spent in song, speeches, &c., indulged in 
by Major William C. Moreland, Col. McConihe, Lee S. 
Smith, and others, and thus was another evening happily 
and pleasantly passed with those who to us now are 
friends, while but a few hours before were perfect and 
entire strangers. 

About 10:30 P. M. we returned to our hotel and 
enjoyed the witnessing of the sleeping scenes of Lady 



OK Allegheny Commandery. 95 



Macbeth carried out in simon-pure theatrical style. It 
certainly recalled that scene most vividly to see tlie 

stately Mrs. M and Mrs. F , of Philadelphia, 

wending their way heavenward per stairway, Mr. §■ 

and his bride turning the corner of a hall, and our patri- 
archal prelate Professor S of Allegheny, his good 

wife leaning tenderly on his stout arm, while the less 
liappy single gentlemen , and for the time being widowers, 
climbing stairs, wandering around corridors, each with a 
brazen candlestick and sperm candle, looking for No. 68 
or No. 10, etc. Oh! how sweet our first sleep on teira 
firma again; our first impression, however, on entering 
our rooms was that perhaps the genial and jovial friends 
from whom we had just parted, had not only treated us 
hospitably but convivially, for the bed, dressing-case, 
washstand, seemed to be on a general spiritualistic move, 
while the floor had every appearance of being movable, 
for we had not yet accustomed ourselves to tlie steadiness 
of things built on the substantial after passing through 
the nine days of rolling we had just endured. In the 
morning the " Quartette ' ' was awake with the lark and 
into a jaunting car, and "doing" the far-famed cit}'^ 01 
Cork. 

Cork is a city of some eighty thousand inhabitants, 
and is generally termed the capital of the south ; is a 
corporate city, governed by a mayor, sixteen aldermen 
and forty-eight counsellors, and a stafl" of paid oflftcials. 
It is the third city in Ireland in importance and pop- 
ulation, Dublin and Belfast alone ranking it. We 



go Crusade to Europe 



visited Patrick's Bridge, Parliament Bridge, and in St. 
Patrick's street is a handsome statue of Fatlier Mat- 
thew, the Apostle of Temperance. The Custom Housey 
which is a handsome building, occupies a tongue of 
land where the two streams of the city meet at a some- 
what acute angle on the eastern side of the city. 

A tract of 240 acres of land has been recovered from 
the river, and laid out as a park, whei-e are held annual 
races Avhich are largely attended. The most important 
literary and scientific institutions are : The Queen's 
College, opened in 1849, which occupies a picturesque 
site on a rock rising fully forty feet above the level 
of the southern branch of the River Lee. The College 
is open to all religious sects ; it has eighteen professors 
teaching languages, sciences, including Greek, Latin and 
the modern tongues, medicine, surgery, natural historj^, 
botany, geology, mathematics and chemistry ; besides 
classes for engineering, political economy and law. The 
Royal Cork Institution, incorporated in ISOY.with a view 
mainly to the advancement of agriculture. The Mechan- 
ics Listitute, agricultural, horticultural and an art union. 
There are two theatres, and barracks for cavalry and 
infantry. Substantial quays of cut stone for the ship- 
ping, are worthy a visit, when it is known that over 
£300,000 have been expended upon improvements con- 
nected with the river ; and when this amount of £300,000 
is mentioned, or one million and a half of American dol- 
lars, just contemplate how miserly and niggardly they 
all are over there in that poor country, when we think 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 97 

of all of $10,000 appropriated by our supremely wise 
American Congress for the improvement of our beau- 
tiful stream — the Allegheny. Just think of it ! Such 
enormous and reckless extravagance on the part of our 
all-wise law makers will ruin any weak or strong gov- 
ernment ever conceived of. 

A very flourishing trade is carried on in Cork, the 
imports consisting of timber chiefly, and the exporting 
of grain, live stock, provisions and linen. The regis- 
tered shipping of this city is about 40,000 tons, sailing 
vessels and steamers. The walls of Cork were built by the 
Danes, in the ninth century, and it derived its name 
from the Irish eorroch or corcagh, a swamp, was given 
to it in allusion to the original character of its site. 

The Union Workhouse, the largest in the country, 
was opened for paupers in 1840 ; the inmates work at 
tailoring, weaving and other trades, and a large corn- 
mill is attached which is worked by the paupers. 

After a drive through the Grand Parade, South 
Mall, Great George's street, Mardyke, and the famous 
" Broad Lane," not a dozen feet wide, we returned to 
the hotel for breakfast. 

At 10 A. M., the entire party were seated in large 
wagonettes and jaunting cars, prepared for the drive 
to Blarney Castle, famous the world over. It is a lovely 
drive of some eight miles, along a most beautiful road, 
and passing through a most charming country, while 
at many points en route some unusually fine landscape 
views are to be had. On our arrival at the Castle, the 

G 



gS Crusade to Europe 



first procedure was the climbing of tlie seemingly inter- 
minable steps, up one hundred and twenty feet high, in 
search of the stone, to which old Father Prout alludes 
thusly : 

" There is a stone there, 
That whoever kisses, 
Oil ! he never misses. 

To grow eloquent. 
'Tis he may clamber 
To a lady's chamber. 
Or become a member 
Of Parliament. 

Or, as he puts it again : 

"A clever spouter, 
He'll sure turn out, or 
An out and outer 

To be let alone ! 
Don't hope to hinder him. 
Or to bewilder him, 
Sure he's a pilgrim 

From the Blarney Stone." 

The Castle was built in the fifteenth century, built 
by Cormick MacOarty, in 1449. It stands on the side 
of a precipitous ledge of limestone rock, rising from a 
deep valle^^, and part of its base is washed by a small 
river called the Aw-Martin. There remains now of the 
original fortress only a square, massive tower, with 
a parapet breast high, and, of course, in the most dan- 
gerous looking place in the whole business. On the 
summit is this stone, which is said to confer on the 
persons kissing it the peculiar property of saying any- 
thing coaxing or complimentary or praise most agreeable 
to the hearer. Only for our being the head of a family, 



OF ALLEGHENY COMMANDERY. 



99 



we would mildly suggest that this is our early mar- 
riage. Every one going to Blarney Castle always kisses 
the " real stone," and, of course, we want it distinctly 
understood we kissed the " real stone," the " rale stone " 
sure. The Major and Colonel would not attempt it, in 
fact we believe the Doctor and "Carlisle " were the only 
two who ventured the feat. Empt3dng our pockets of 
our '• Bank of Englands," we were solemnly held over 
by the heels, and performed the nonsensical operation, 
and as we looked down through the aperture, one hun- 
dred and twenty feet high, to kiss this stone to which 
is ascribed the power of giving jon all the " blarney" 
you can. very comfortably carry, we thought of our 
illustrious predecessors of "71, and of the portl}^ figures 
the pilgrim party of that year had with them, and we 
wondered and pondered how they ever, and how many 
of them, held out our friend Sir Edward M. Jenkins, 
or how they ever escaped permitting another friend, Sir 
James A. Sholes, from slipping through their fingers, 
and I know it must have been an efi"ort of no mean 
order to hold even our genial friend A. M. Rambo, Esq., 
from measuring the distance to the ground below, by 
as many times the length of his body multiplied by the 
time taken in falling, deducting the pi'essure on the air 
as he compressed it in his momentum. We all knew 
our venerable prelate had been at it before, and lie did 
not try it again. Blarney Lake is a sweet little piece 
of water, distant about a quarter of a mile from the 
Castle. A tradition remains that at certain seasons a 



Crusade to Europe 



herd of white cows rises from the bosom of the Lake 
to graze among the rich pasture whicli clothes its banks. 
Another storyjs, " tliat the Earl of Clancart}^, who for- 
feited the Castle at the Revolution, cast all his plate 
into a certain part ;. that three of the McCarthy's inherit 
the secret of the place where they are deposited, any 
one of whom dying communicates it to another member 
of the family, and thus perpetuates the secret, which is. 
never to be revealed until a McCarthy be again Lord 
of Blarney." For traditions, for stories, for tales and 
yarns, before which far western snake and Indian stories 
would pale, and are the frozen truth in comparison, 
commend us to these good people in Ireland. 

Then here are the beautiful " Groves of Blarney," 
to which is ascribed the following quotation of a song 
found in Mr. Crofton Croker's " Popular Songs of Ire- 
land : " . 

" The Groves of Blarney, 
They look so charming, 
Down by the purling 

Of sweet silent streams. 
Being banked with posies 
That spontaneous grow there. 
Planted in order 

By the sweet rock close." 

" 'Tis there's the daisy, 
And the sweet carnation, 
The blooming pink. 

And the rose so fair; 
The daffodowndilly, 
Likewise the lily. 
All flowers that scent 

The sweet fragrant air." 



OF Allegheny Commanuery. 



Having spent a few hours tlius at the Castle, buy- 
ing armload after armload of the genuine bogwood, sold 
at the Castle gate, we take our conveyances and return 
to the city, and here again our Masonic friends had a 
treat in store for us. Notwithstanding the fact the 
famous Shandon Church was closed for repairs, they 
had it opened for our inspection. The Church is a 
plain grotesque looking edifice, with a steeple resem- 
bling a number of stories. It was begun in 1T22, and 
Crofton Croker informs us "that its steeple was con- 
structed of hewn stone from the Franciscan Abbey, 
where James II. heard mass, and from the ruins of 
Lord Barry's Castle, which had been the official resi- 
dence of the lords president of Munster, and from 
whence this quarter of the city takes its name Shandon 
or Seandun, signifying, in Irish, the old fort or castle." 
Its height is one hundred and twenty feet, and in this 
steeple are those Shandon Bells, of which Rev. Father 
Mahoney says this, in two stanzas from his song : 

" With deep affection 
And recollection, 
I often think on 

•Those Shandon Bells, 
Whose sound so mild would 
In the days of childhood, 
Fling round my cradle 

Their magic spells." 



" I have heard bells chiming 
Full many a clime in. 
Tolling sublime in 
Cathedral shrine ; 



Crusade lo Europe 



While at a glib rate 

Brass tongues would vibrate, 

But all their music 

Spoke nought like thine." 

We heard those sweet Shandon Bells, and never 
will, we forget the emotions with which we were filled, 
as on that day they rang out " Caller Herrin," "Amer- 
ica," " The Last Rose of Summer," " The Old Folks at 
Home," '' Home, Sweet Home," and how, as they sang 
out with their iron tongues in sweet melody, those old 
and dear familiar airs, we were carried away thousands 
of miles across land and water to the '• Smoky City," 
nestling amidst her bleak and barren hills. 

But our time is growing short, we cannot remain 
longer here, much as were wont to do, so we returned to 
the Imperial, where our Royal Highness, the Chief But- 
ler, has a nice lunch in waiting for us, of which we 
partake heartily, and are again seated in our coaches, 
ready again for the road. At the moment of our de- 
parture, our newly made friend of the day preceding, 
Mr. AchesoUj came round to the hotel with a large 
paper containing the most beautiful and fragrant rose- 
buds of all varieties and colors, and a package of sweet 
smelling verbena, for a button-hole bouquet for each of 
the party, which were duly appreciated. And here the 
thought struck us forciblj^; here we were, strangers in 
a sti'ange land, not one of us knowing a single, solitary 
soul, yet even before putting a foot ashore we were 
among firm, fast friends, whose every shake of the 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 



band betokened friendship, kindness and brotherly love ; 
and there is one thing of which can be said of Amer- 
icans, as of Scotchmen and Irishmen, for our good 
friends' benefit on tlie other side of the water, and 
that is, they never forget, and we but await the op- 
portunity of carrying out literally the golden rule of 
" doing unto them as they did unto us.'' 

A little fact, or rather incident, we neglected to men- 
tion earlier in this letter, illustrative of how stories carry 
and are perverted and twisted until the original becomes 
unrecognizable, was, we were informed of the terrible 
Fourth of July disaster, which happened to the Sunday 
School pic-nic being held in one of the groves adjacent 
to Allegheny City, when that fatal storm of wind, 
lightning and blew down trees, &c., killing a number 
of persons, but the version we heard was that the 
entire lower portion of Allegheny City was consumed 
by fire, that houses had been blown down, and persons 
numbering hundreds had been killed and wounded, hund- 
reds of thousands of dollars worth of propert}^ destroyed; 
and we can assure the reader, being so far away from 
home, with intelligence such as that, the " Crusade,'' 
until more definite intelligence from home would arrive, 
would be a YQvy tame and mild affair. 

Through, the kindness of the Cork Constitution, the 
live newspaper of that city, we were permitted to go 
over its file, but could find nothing concerning it. 
The Colonel, whose home was in the vicinity of that 
honorable gentleman, Mr. Brigham Young, and the 



I04 Crusade to Europe 



Major, whose residence was safe in the region of 
Nicholson block and locust post pavements in tlie 
City of Pittsburgh, were selfishly asleep in their rooms, 
while the poor Doctor and " Carlisle " spent a large 
portion of the night examining newspapers, and we 
conscientiously believe the two former mentioned gen- 
tlemen were laughing at us for doing so, and would 
have been pleased had the Doctor and " Carlisle " been 
burned out of house and home, and been to-day star- 
ring the country out of the states enforcing the Tramp 
Act, as the " Two Orphans.'' 

At 2:30 P. M., we take the train for Killarney, 
passing through Bandon, Enniskean, Dunmanway, Ban- 
try, Glengariff and Kenmare, and arriving at Killarney 
at 5:30 P. M. 



^^ 



OF Allegheny Commandery. . 105 



The Pilgrims at Killarney. — One of the Gems of Irish 
Scenery.— Amusing' Scenes in Genuine Irish Life. — 
A Pleasant Ride Through the Gap of Dunloe and 
on the Lakes.— Incidents by the "Way. 

(^j^O conception can be formed of the appetites we 
" poor and weary pilgrims traveling from afar" 
had on our arrival at Killarney, for we were 
hourlj^ being benefited by our ocean trip, and with the 
crisp, bracing air of Ireland, as with a fast growing- 
child, we could almost in the same manner see each 
other growing fat, and it would have been a very im- 
material matter to us whether we met a man with one 
*' shillelah " or a dozen at that moment, for we had 
been informed that Killarney was the place to have a 
glimpse of real Irish life, in all of its original phases. 
Shortly after our arrival, however, we filed into the 
large and handsome dining room of the Railway Hotel, 
where we seated ourselves and fared sumptuously of a 
magnificent dinner, composed of all the good things of 
this life, and they even had many delicacies and luxu- 
ries in the shape of fruits, &c., many of which are 
foreign to Britain, and a rarit}^ 

After dinner, on one of the loveliest of lovely 
eveninos. we took a stroll down throuo-h this famous 



io6 Crusade to Europe 



Ifish town of Killarney, and, situated as this little town 
is, surrounded by towering hills, we were privileged in 
seeing one of the most gorgeous sunsets we had ever 
beheld. The sun had almost run his course for that 
day, and was just goiug down behind the " Purple 
Mountain," his golden rays spreading and shedding the 
beautiful light all over the heavens, and tinging the 
light and fleec^^ clouds with a richness such as is sel- 
dom seen. Now and then, as we were walking onward, 
a little opening in the foliage of the trees revealed to 
us the pretty, calm, and still Lakes we had come to 
see ; but we are now out to see simply the town, and, 
if possible, to observe the quality and character of its 
inhabitants, and, as we have already said, for a sight of 
real Irish life, commend us unhesitatingly to Killarney. 

As the " Quartette " passed down and along the nar- 
row and winding streets, each of us enjoying a fragrant 
Havana, (the Posf''s word again — alleged Havana,) we 
were followed and literally besieged by every little urchin 
in the place. We are prone to believe, and we certainly 
would have been taken for a walking side-show had we 
been seen in our own country, surrounded as we were by 
anywhere from forty to one hundred dirty-faced, bare- 
footed gamins, who seeing us smoking, yelled like a band 
of Ute Indians, " Sa}", raisther; give's the stump?" 
" Jump the ditch for the stump, misther !" The crowd 
represented children and youth of all ages from the 
little bits of tads four or five years of age, to full-fledged 
boys of twelve, fourteen and sixteen ; and no sooner had 



OF Allegheny Commandery. • 107 



the exhausted end of our cigars left our hands, no matter 
where falling in the street, than would be seen one of the 
following, howling mob, puffing and drawing for dear life 
^t the very small remainder of our original smoke. 

As is the custom in the smaller and even the larger, 
but particularly the smaller towns throughout the king- 
dom, the work of the week being ended, the whole town 
turns out on Saturday nights ; consequently may be seen 
at almost every step little knots of people, men and 
women, and as a general rule the '' whuskey " flies. We 
see among the groups an old gray-haired man whose 
hairs attest the frosts of seventy years, wearing the half- 
high silk hat, a dark check shirt, black silk cravat tied in 
a big heavy knot, the swallow-tailed coat with gilt or brass 
buttons, from the pocket of the coat hangs the indispens- 
able red Bandana handkerchief, a black low-cut waistcoat, 
corduroy knee pants, blue ribbed stockings — home made, 
and hob-nail boots or shoes ; and we see this old man, 
diving his head into the person to whom he is talking, or 
" steadying up " as he inclines backwards, sideways or 
forward. 

Again, and very probably in the same group, we see 
the younger man of the more modern period, having on 
the Christian cut of pantaloons, swaggering backwards 
and forward, and apparently most fearfully weak at the 
knees. Again we see the beardless youth, with a "cutty" 
pipe in his mouth, probably the pipe turned upside down, 
and the smoker, in short, as drunk as a loon ; and even 
in all these motley assemblages may be seen the "gentler'' 



io8 Crusade to ^^urope 



sex, (still we had no desire of tackling any of the female 
gender, for they looked more powerful than the men,) 
as hot in conversation, as good at swearing, and as loud 
in gestures as any of their male companions, and a great 
proportion of them under the " influence." 

Of course we could not go through all this and not 
see a first class " hand-to-hand," not strictly in accord- 
ance with the imperative rules of the prize ring, but 
more in the nature of our American lunacy walking 
matches, that is to say, " go-as-you-please.'' Two stal- 
warts had met and fully agreed to disagree, and after one 
boldly giving the other "the lie, be jabers!" with a 
" shillalali " in one hand, lie danced around like an auto- 
maton, with a " Whoop ! Who '11 thread on me coat 
tails ; " which, of course, no true man of Erin can stand 
for a moment. So this man's opponent was no exception 
to this rule, and becoming exceedingi}^ forcible in his 
remarks, he gave his adversary a terrible '• sockdolager " 
on the nasal appendage and right eye, which caused tlie 
" claret " certainly, if not the " potheen " to fly ; and 
this had been done but a moment when about three or 
four " bobbies " of the constabular}^ force swooped down 
upon the combatants, and to jail they went with them in 
a "jiffy,'' but requiring an extra policeman to keep back 
a couple of women who, by entreaties and even by force, 
were earnestl}^ endeavoring to have one of them, the 
man who received " the bash on the nose," as they 
termed it, released. But once into the hands of one of 
the constabu^ar}'-, there is no release until you have been 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 109 

presented to, and had the honor and pleasure of an inter- 
view "with his honor the justice. 

Returning to our hotel, as it was now almost eleven 
o'clock, and sitting out on the piazza on that beautiful 
moonlit night, our thoughts were wafted homeward ; in 
fact, we were forcibly reminded of Allegheny Citj' at 
least, from the, fact, as we sat there, our good, kind- 
hearted German friend. Sir Knight Fred Beilstein, came 
in the gateway muttering and mumbling to himself in 
inaudible sounds, and when he reached ns he broke out 
on a certain " highly respected gentleman," formerly 
the head of a prominent institution in Allegheny, and he 
■ went for him pretty severely, too. In fact it would not 
have been healthy for that " highly respected gentle- 
man" by any means, to have turned up around the 
" Railway Hotel " on that evening. Whatever started 
Fred on that subject at that time and place is something 
we have still to find out. 

Sunday morning, like a good pious four, the " Quar- 
tette " arose and proceeded to the Roman Catholic Cathe- 
dral and attended ^' early church," and at 10:30 we 
attended divine service in St. Franciscan Church, and at 
both these services we recognized one and all of our 
friends of the evening before, excepting perhaps the poor 
individual who received the afore-mentioned " sockdola- 
ger" on the nose, and the person presenting it to him. 
Not much can be said as regards the architectural beauty 
of either of these churches, but the cathedral is more 
than ordinarily large, and as with nearly all buildings on 



Crusade to Europe 



that side of the water, is built completel}'^ and entirely of 
stone. The most striking feature in common with all 
such public places, and even private mansions, is in the 
solidity and substantiability of their appearance. The 
interior is fitted up as is usual in churches of that 
denomination, the alters and pulpits all being of exquis- 
itely carved stone, no gaudiness of any kind existing, 
while the beautiful work of the mallet and chisel, dis- 
plaj'ed in carving out of the rude stone the twelve 
Apostles, the two Marys and Jesus Christ our Saviour, 
while the magnificent stained-glass windows attaining the 
height of sixt}^ feet, are emblematical of various por- 
tions of Scripture, and the very elaborately embroidered 
robes which the good father wears during the service, all 
tend with harmonj^ to please the eye of the beautiful and 
chaste. 

But there is in great contrast to this another side 
to this picture. In looking forward, we see only that 
which proves attractive, and extracts words of com- 
mendation and admiration ; but turning back and look- 
ing around over a congregation of two to three thous- 
and persons, 'tis then we see the squalor and poverty 
prevailing in poor old Ireland, particularly in the 
southern country ; 'tis there we see a sight never to be 
forgotten, the faces of Irish men and Irish women, 
bearing the inevitable mark of their nationality as 
unmistakably as do Grod's chosen people, which for 
thousands of years, time nor change have ever been 
able to eradicate ; we see there men, women, children, 



OK Allegheny Commandery. 



in rags, with unshaven faces and unkempt hair, in 
poverty, liunger and dirt, misery stamped upon each of 
their unliappj^ countenances. 

Oil! liow our heart goes out in sjanpathy towards 
this people, to think, that no matter how laborious, how 
steady, how industrious, how hard working a man may 
be for years, or how many generations may succeed 
him, earnestly working and studiously saving and econ- 
omizing, the^^ never rise above tenants, for the cursed 
and outrageously barbarous law of entailment, resting 
upon poor Ireland and her people ; thej^ are born 
into the world in poverty, and depart from it in 
poverty as they came, and although the people we 
are now amongst are to a certain extent benighted, 
yet they are a noble race of people, and the best 
people in their own homes in God's whole world. 
We express no Fenian words, nor advance no social- 
istic, communistic nor rebellious ideas, when we say 
with all our heart, we hope to see the day when 
Ireland will be as free as an^' nation on the earth ; 
when by the enlightenment of civilization, the power 
of the pen, and the cultivation of that grand and 
noble feeling — humanitj^ — England will take the hand 
of her protege — Ireland — and clasped in bonds of 
peace and fraternal love, with each of Erin's thrifty 
sons living on his own little spot of ground, in his 
own little home, all shall dwell together in happiness 
and unity. 



Crusade to Europe 



About noon we partook of a good lunch, and 
having previously ordered a jaunting car, the irre- 
pressible " Quartette ' got aboard for a drive. For 
the benefit of any who have never seen a jaunting- 
car, we will attempt the description of one. They are 
a neat little single-horse vehicle, somewhat of a box 
shape, the driver sitting, as it were, on the top and 
centre of the box, while on either side of the box 
are two seats, the two hold two persons each, so that 
the occupants face the sidewalks, instead of the road 
proper, and are back to back to each other ; when but 
one person takes a car, the driver comes down from 
his box and seats himself with his back to you on the 
opposite side, which balances the thing nicely, par- 
ticularly if one should have a heav^^ dose of dyspepsia 
and weigh but ninety pounds or so, and the driver 
with a proper digestion weighing, say, the mild weight 
of two hundred and forty. 

We drive through the town first, and are quickly 
impressed with the idea that Killarney is certainly 
not the cleanest place in the world by a large ma- 
jority. The population is about 5,000, and the prin- 
cipal business of the people appears to be begging, 
touting, acting as guides, and similar annoyances. 
We again quote from Mr. Croker, that " In an evening 
ramble through the town, the first thing that will 
strike a stranger, is the number of idle people loung- 
ing about the streets, or standing with their backs 
against the door-posts of the houses." Ajid there is 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 113 

no doubt but much of this consummate laziness is 
due to tlie indiscrimiuate benevolence of unsophisti- 
cated tourists. 

There is a dispensary, a fever hospital, and an 
alms-house, as well as a workhouse, in which are 
four hundred paupers ; there is also a "nunnery, to 
which is attached a school where four hundred girls 
are educated. Lord Kenmare, the large land-owner 
in this section, besides providing clothing for 
thirty of the girls, annually contributes £100 for the 
maintenance of the school, and this said, all is said 
worth saying of Killarney for the town itself. We drive 
out to Muckross Abbey, around the Lower and 
Middle Lakes, ascend the Tore Mountain, and see 
the Tore Waterfall, and from the side of this moun- 
tain the finest view is to be had of one of the pretti- 
est pieces of Irish scenery, for such the Lakes and 
surrounding country of Killarney really are. 

We had, aside from the beauties of nature which 
we were enjoying and permitted to visit, a most 
amusing time with the driver provided us, which was 
well worth all the cost alone. He was a young fellow, 
a genuine Irishman, and Avhilst we were for the greater 
portion of the time convulsed in laughter, yet from 
him we obtained much valuable information as to 
the means of support of the inhabitants, the wages 
usually paid, and in every respect he was witty, 
quick and bright. We made one terrible mistake, 
however, with him, which came near proving fatal. 

H 



114 Crusade to Europe 



aiid from wliicli we liaA^e scarcelj^ yet recovered. In 
an unguarded, thoughtless and mifortunate moment, 
we asked Mr. OTlahert}'-, (the driver's name,) if he 
eouhl sing ? Oh ! fatal conundrum. '' Oh ! yes, he 
could that, be jabers." And without further sugges- 
tion or solicitation upon our part, he started up, and 
notwithstanding the fact we have held several meetings 
open and private since, and carefull}^ gone over all 
the Irish, Scotch, English, French, German, Italian and 
other composers, we can arrive at no reasonable or 
definite conclusion as to what that man sang for us on 
that da}'', and we still remain in the darkness and bliss of 
ignorance. He sang and pitched his voice in a beautiful 
minor ke}^, similar to the sound of a circular saw striking 
an old and rusty nail, and the " Doctor " looked at " Car- 
lisle" and " Carlisle " looked at the '' Doctor ; " we turned 
and saw the " Colonel " looking at the " Majali " and the 
"Majah" looking at the "Colonel;" and then we all 
turned and gazed on the driver. 

The Colonel thought to break the" excruciating sound 
by asking, "Will you be so kind as to tell us the name 
of that mountain ? " The singing goes on, heedless of 
the question put. The Major asks, " What ruin is that 
in the distance, on our left ? " The singing continues. 
The Doctor asks, "Who owns this estate?" Alwa3^s a 
safe question to ask. No cessation to the croaking on 
the driver's box. " Carlisle " taps him on the shoulder, 
tells him " If he was in Pittsburgh he would be in jail 
in twenty minutes fi-om date, for violating the Sundaj^ 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 115 

laws for sawing wood on Sunda3^" But still tlie abomina- 
ble squeaking goes on, from flats to sharps and majors to 
minors in horrible style, and we will never believe any- 
thing else than that man was wound up just to run a 
stated length of time, and nothing under heaven could 
stop him unless you smashed in the works. All four of 
the " Quartette " then lend their " inflooence " to endea- 
vor to stop the agon}'. We entreated him, we begged 
and plead with him in the name of all that was good, 
and for the sake of our dear wives and families so many 
thousand miles away, for the sake of humanitj^, to please 
stop ; but our entreaties were of no more avail tlian had 
we remained dumb. Then we tried the custom of dealing 
with Pennsylvania legislatures by endeavoring to bribe 
him with money, pearls, precious stones, U. S. bonds, or 
even offered to stop somewhere and make him a present 
of a whole barrel of " Jersey Lightning," if he would 
only do as the wicked, " cease from troubling," and allow 
the weary to rest ; but there was the difference between 
Pennsylvania State legislatures and that poor jaunting- 
car driver : they accept, while he simply laughed us to 
scorn. Now we were positive he was wound up, and our 
next fear was that he was an " eight day '' one, too. 

There was but one final resort for us, to save our- 
selves from dying a lingering and miserable death away 
from home, and we regretted the necessity tliat compelled 
us to use it, though it was in reality a simple question of 
life or death ; and as we felt we had not quite finished our 
mission here below, in true American stjde, in the twink- 



ii6 Crusade to Europe 

ling of an eye, we covered him with four " Colts' Navy 
six-shooters " and four seven inch " Bowie knives," which 
made the hair on that Irishman's head raise his hat and 
forever squelched his excruciating, painful and sickening 
singing propensities, for he immediately and vociferously 
yelled, " Och ! Mister ; do n't shoot ! Be all the powers 
that was, is, or is to come, put away j'our cannons and 
bloody weapons o'war ! and I'll do anything in the world 
for yez." We put away our young Fortress Monroe, and 
we had a most docile driver all the afternoon. 

During our conversation with him we asked if he 
would not like to go out to America ? He said, as do 
nearly all over there, that he would if he could only raise 
the " necessary." We asked him " If he had any rela- 
tives in America ? " " Divil a one," says he, " but I've 
got two brothers about Boston," and that struck us as a 
little singular, for we asked very few in Ireland if they 
had any relatives in America, but who had a father, 
mother, sister, brother, cousin or an aunt, and all " about 
Boston," which leads us to the conclusion that the 
"Hub," with all its "culchah" is but a southern 
extremity of Ireland itself, its Yankee notions and pro- 
fessions to the contrary notwithstanding. 

A LITTLE TOO MUCH POLITENESS. 

We entered the beautiful grounds of Captain H. A. 
Herbert, M. P. for Kerry, and one of the largest pro- 
prietors in the Soutli of Ireland ; and as we rode along 
upon the elegant and smooth roads, we saw posted at 
frequent intervals the following notices : " Drivers 



OF Allegheny Commandery. , 117 

stopping or allowing visitors to pull flowers or leaves, or 
cut trees, etc., will be expelled from the grounds," 
" Flowers taken from visitors," or " Prosecuted accord- 
ing to law," etc., etc. But the desire to obtain little 
mementos of places visited is inherent in everyone, so 
that so far as we were concerned the notices became as 
many of our laws, strictly a dead letter; so we worked 
away, the driver now being completely under our control, 
pnlling an ivy leaf here, a sprig of heather there, a "bit 
o' the shamrock," occasionally a pretty little flower, 
until our pockets were overflowing, and resorted to fill- 
ing our hats ; knowing full well that we were American 
Sovereigns, and compelled by no law save that of ° 
etiquette to lift our hats to any foreign potentate, landed 
proprietor or aristocracy of any kind, so we kept placing 
the little souvenirs in our chapeaux until the space 
between the crown of our heads and the crown of our 
hats was actually jammed, when we came to the pretty 
little shaded resting cottage, placed there by Mr. Her- 
bert for the accommodation of visitors. 

We entered quite unconcernedly, to find the keeper 
of the grounds with his little family comfortablj'' seated 
at dinner. The " Colonel " kept nudging us with his 
elbow and gently whispering, " Keep on your hats," 
"Keep on your hats; " but we did not understand him, 
and having forgotten all about the hat being full of 
" forbidden fruit," our American politeness, in slang- 
parlance, " gave us most emphatically and completelj^ 
away," for off" went our hats as we entered the door, and 



ii8 Crusade to Europe 



down fell a quart of leaves, flowers, &c., and lay scat- 
tered at our feet. To say it was a predicament but 
mildly expresses the feelings we then endured ; the 
sagacity of the " Colonel " saving him nicely, while 
" Carlisle," seeing the predicament we were in, as well as 
our liability to see the inside of the " Bastile," con- 
sidered discretion much the better part of valor in this 
instance, and so made a hasty exit, followed rapidly 
by six feet more of discretion, namely, the Doctor, 
amid roars of laughter; and so we were compelled to 
again fill all our receptacles the second time with afore- 
said mementos, but we shook hands on our resolution 
never again to lift our hats to any one under any circum- 
stances while traveling in foreign lands. It was late in 
the evening when we returned to our hotel, after having 
had a most delightful drive. We had three young 
ladies in our party, (not Knights Templar though,) and 
by a singular coincidence we might call it, three young 
gentlemen — susceptible young gentlemen, too. One from 
Allegheny City, a son of one of our most respected 
citizens, and who for many years graced tlie bench of 
Allegheny county, (so Edward M. Jenkins says,) though 
we have none of his able opinions nor decisions before 
ns ; another from West Virginia, and another from New 
Jersey ; and although so far on our tour we have not 
frequented any " Missionary Society," "Sewing Society" 
or " Church Social," we cannot expect to be posted in 
everything going on about other people's business, still 
at this point matters looked mighty interesting, and we 



OF Allegheny Commander y. 119 

certainly hoped to see our venerable Sir Knight Pre- 
late obtain something to do, for he, the Em. Comman- 
der and Captain - General, and even our very stately 
Generalissimo, were actually becoming rusty for want 
of use. We simply mention this little coincidence, for 
having traveled that road, we know whereof we speak, 
that moonlight drives, and seeing old abbeys, &c., by 
candlelight, are conducive towards the end to which 
we allude. : 

Knowing we had a big day before us the following 
day, Monday, we all went through the " Lady Macbeth " 
scene again, and retired early ; and we thought of all the 
poor plebeians at home ; of how, about that time they 
would also be retiring, tossing and rolling around, 
sweltering in hot rooms with a fan in one hand trying to 
keep cool, and a towel in the other, striking recklessly at 
pestersome and troublesome flies, longing and praying 
for daylight and the morning, and remarking then what 
a horrible night you had passed, and sighing for the 
primitive days of light- wearing apparel, such as is worn 
in the lower tropics, and that, say a pair of " sox " and a 
paper collar might be the full dress for July and August ; 
and we wealthy, traveling, sojourning nabobs, ensconced 
snugly in our little beds, beneath blankets and comforts, 
rather too cool if anything for comfort ; but as our 
wealth was exhausted on this pilgrimage, we presume we 
will have to put in some horrible nights ourselves for 
some summers to come. 

Monday morning at 9 A. M. we were all seated in 



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jaunting cars and wagonettes, ready for onr trip tlirough 
the celebrated Gap of Dunloe, and down the lakes b3^ 
boats, and at 9:10 tlie procession of forty persons in 
nine vehicles, were on our way thither ; down through 
the pretty roads of Killarney, and as all their roads are 
macadamized, they are perfectl}^ smooth, and covered 
over with a beautiful arch of green, the boughs of the 
large trees growing on either side of the road intertwin- 
ing and interlacing, forming a. beautiful shelter from a sun 
that would have rendered our ride at least a little uncom- 
fortable, and made it to us so cool and pleasant. 

Leaving the streets of Killarnej^, we passed the Union 
Workhouse and County Lunatic As3'lum on our right, 
and the handsome Roman Catholic Cathedral on our 
left. On our way we are given a magnificent view of 
the picturesque scenery surrounding Killarney and her 
lakes ; on our right, in front and behind us lies a ricli 
and fertile landscape, every inch of which that can possi- 
bly be utilized, under careful cultivation, which we are 
also happy to say is being done by all the latest improv- 
ed American agricultural machines. A little to our 
left is the broad lov^er lake or Lough Leane as it is called 
a very pretty sheet of water ; while on the extreme left as 
a handsome background to the beautiful valley below, is 
the chain of mountains all along on that side. On our 
right, as we pass out from the town, perched on a piece 
of rising ground are the venerable ruins of Aghadoe, one 
of the most delightfullj' situated assemblages of ruins in 
the kinodom. The castle is but a fragment of a tower 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 



about thirty feet in height ; the church, a low oblong 
building, consisting of two distinct chapels, built in 1158, 
and dedicated to the Holy Trinit}^ The Round Tower 
is in no better condition than the Castle ; the greater 
part of the facing stone having been carried away for the 
erection of tombs in the adjacent burying-ground. 
About a mile farther along we pass Aghadoe House, the 
pleasant mansion of the dowager Lady Headle}'. To our 
left on the lake side is the Lake View House, the resi- 
dence of James O'Connell, Esq., brother of the late 
agitator in Ireland. On the same side is seen Killalee 
House and Beaufort House, having an extensive and 
beautiful demesne, and crossing the river Laune, which 
conveys the surplus water from the upper lake, at Beau- 
fort bridge, and here we are immediately beseiged by a 
cavalcade of seemingly Mosb}^ guerillas ; some one- 
legged, one-e3'ed, one-toothed, one-eared, and altogether 
about as hard a looking " gang " as it was ever our mis- 
fortune to meet. These fellows ride along, and blather 
awa}" about taking their horses or ponies at the entrance 
to the gap. Finally we arrive at the famous cottage of 
Kate Kearney ; when out comes little old Kate, (not the 
original Kate to be sure,) with a jug of the "potheen " 
under one arm, and a bottle of pure "goats' milk" 
under the other, but we can say Kate will not speedily 
become a landowner through the means of such parties 
as that day visited her. 

Here after a little delay we were provided with ponies 
— ladies having side-saddles to be sure — and we must say 



Crusade to Europe 



all did nobly, including Mrs. M of the city of 

Brotherly Love, who was with us on the tour solely and 
wholly for her health, she being extremely delicate, and 
we all sincerely trust that she derived much benefit since 
from her trip, and was enabled to return to her friends 
hale, hearty and stout ; for, having fallen away as she 
had done before leaving home, she must certainly have 
been very ill ; and she being a most agreeable and pleas- 
ant traveling companion not to speak of her charming 

daughter Mrs. F , we should only be too gratified 

to hear of her complete recovery lo her wonted health. 

Mrs. M was the only one of whom we had any 

fear, thinking- it might probably be too rough a ride for 
her, but she managed through it appearing none the 
worse. (But, oh, heavens, how we did pity that pony !) 
We proceeded on our way through the gap, and 
everything was going on all right until our friend from 
St. Louis was giving us a few circus feats and perform- 
ances. He had been riding successfully for some time 
with his face to the tail of the pony until tiring of that 
position, he concluded to turn round without going to 
the trouble of dismounting, and of course not being used 
to such " ring tricks," it was like two trains attemping 
to pass on the same track, it could not be done, for down 
came our poor friend at the pony's feet, and it was 
truly a comical sight to see our St. Louis friend alight 
on his head, his neck, his back, his limbs, his feet in 
rapid succession, and the poor little innocent pony 
gazing intently at Robert, and Robert gazing intently at 
the pony. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. ^ 123 



The Gap of Duiiloe is a wild and narrow mountain 
pass between tlie range of hills known as Macgillicuddy's 
Reeks and the Purple Mountains. It is four miles in 
length. Sterling Coyne thus writes of it : " On either 
hand the craggy cliffs, composed of huge masses of pro- 
jecting rocks suspend fearfully over the narrow pathway, 
and at every step threaten with destruction the adventur- 
ous explorer of this desolate scene. In the interstices of 
these immense fragments a few shrubs and trees shoot 
out in fantastic shapes, which, with the dark ivy and 
luxuriant heather, contribute to the picturesque efl'ect of 
the landscape." We pass the Black Lough where it is 
related Saint Patrick banished the last snake. A small 
stream called the Loe traverses the whole length of the 
Gap, expanding itself at different points iiato five small 
lakes, each liaving its proper name, but which are known 
in the aggregate as the Cummeen Thomeen lakes. 

We come to Echo Rock, where our guide took his 
cornet and pla3^ed several familiar airs, such as " Home, 
Sweet, Home," " The Old Folks at Home," &c., and the 
rock echoing back those svveet airs in eight separate and 
distinct keys, apparently, commencing loud and close to 
hand, until growing sweeter and fainter as it climbed the 
mountain side, it was lost in the ninth echo, yet in the 
eighth each trill or flat or grace note sounded, came back 
as perfectly and as sweetly as though there had been eight 
different cornets playing the same bar in different keys. 
Touters along the road fire off cannon to awaken the, ' 
magnificent echo which passes from hill to hill, and at 



124 ' Crusade to Europe 



every little step are to be found deaf, dumb, lame, 
decrepit, deformed, maimed persons begging for a six 
pence. Emerging from tiie gap we come within sight of 
the Black Valley, which stretches away to our right and 
seems lost in its own profundity. The Irish name for 
this Yalley is Cummeenduff, Commenduff^, Gom-a-Dhuv, 
Gom-Dhuv and Goovi-Dhuvh, and of either of these 
unpronounceable words the reader may take his or her 
choice. Mr. Inglis in writing up Irish scenery, sa5^s, 
" this vale is much more striking than that which we have 
just left, for few could look into its wild recess without a 
feeling akin to horror." The darkness of the valley is 
not caused b}^ any excess of vegetation, what exists 
being, on the contrar}^, very stunted and sparingly scat- 
tered. The effect is produced by the height of the hills 
surrounding the valle}^, and the immense quantity of 
dissolved peat}'^ matter in the water. Mr, Wuidele 
describes the valley much more concisely and truly than 
we could attempt to do, and he gives this as his descrip- 
tion : " On our right lies the deep, broad desolate glen of 
Coom Dhuv, an amphitheatre, buried at the base and 
hemmed in by vast mountains, whose rugged sides are 
marked by the course of the descending streams. , At 
the western extremity ef the valley gloomily reposes, 
amid silence and shadows one of the lakes or rather 
circular basins of dark still water, Loch-au-bric-dearg, 
' the lake of chav, or red trout.' Other lesser lakes dot 
the surface of the moor, and uniting, form at the side 
opposite the termination of the gap. A waterfall of 



OF Allegheny Commandf.ry. 125 

considerable height enjoying the advantage not common 
to other falls in Ireland, of being plentifully supplied 
with water at every season of the year." 

The whole valley is a black, scarcely defined prison, 
and the water throws back the light, which it receives by 
reflection from the clouds, giving the idea of being light- 
ed from below. We now proceed down the pathway ^ 
leading through the valley, and speaking a moment ago 
of begging, we will give one example' which for notorious 
and unmitigated cheek surpasses anything we have ever i> 
met in our little experience. We were passing down this 
little narrow path when we were tackled by one of the 
most frightful looking women we had ever beheld, in her 
bare feet, with her hair dirty and tousy, and her face <^ 
accustomed to long exposure in the burning sun, one 
solid mass of freckles the size of three cent silver pieces, 
and she styled herself the " Colleen Bawn." Heaven 
preserve us from the Colleen Bawn ! Eileen was her 
name, and as we rode along, Eileen importuned us one 
by one to invest in one of her " picturs," asking a six- 
pence therefor, and there is nothing we regret so much 
now, that we did not invest in a " sample copy "of the 
same, that through the aid of woodcuts or steel plate, 
we might be able to produce the image of " Eileen " in 
this work for the inspection of the reader, and our 
fortune would have been an assured fact. However, to 
resume, "Carlisle" happened to be riding in company 
with the " Major," who was carrying an awful look of 
disdain upon his usually pleasant countenance, and mut- 



126 Crusade to Europe 



tering some camp meeting revival sentences on begging 
in general, when to rid himself of " Eileen, the pest,'' he 
dived his hand deep down into his pants pocket and 
pulled forth an American five and one cent piece. Hold- 
ing the five cent piece towards " Eileen," he inquired of 
her "if she knew what it was? " " Of coiirse," says she, 
^' its a five cint piece." " Well," says the Major, "take 
that and go awa}^ from me forever;" at the same time 
replacing the one cent piece in his pocket, when" Eileen" 
coolly said, "but, Misther, couldn't yez give me the 
other cint, too." It is scarcely necessary to add that the 
look of disgust on the Major's face did not change to a 
pleasant smile by any means, at this further show of 
consummate impudence. A certain gentleman from 
Allegheny City, who enjoys a wide reputation of supply- 
ing juicy pieces of tender meat to the families of said 
city, became quite infatuated with the " Colleen Bawn," 
and invested in one of her pictures, saying " he just 
wanted to show it to his wife;" but none of us believed a 
v.'ord of it, and we do not think he has shown it to this 
moment to her. 

It was also rumored at headquarters, as well as 
in the camp, that the Doctor, and even our gallant 
Colonel, were verj^ much taken Avith " Eileen." Of 
course they were very careful, but the Major and 
" Carlisle " can at any moment testify to the sweet 
glances cast by them to she of the tous}^ hair and 
little " barefoot." All along this path we are met by 
women, children strapped to their backs, a la Indian 



OF Allegheny Commander y. 127 



squaw style, and tliey knitting at stockings tliick enough 
for horse blankets, and the prices asked for a pair 
would keep a horse comfortable under a covering during 
the winter. 

Arriving at the head of the Upper Lake, we seat 
ourselves on the grass, and are served with a fine 
luncheon of cold chicken and sandwiches, brought us by 
the boatmen, and, having finished the same, we enter 
the boats with four rowers to each boat, dressed in 
pretty white sailor suits, the grand old " Stars and 
Stripes " at the bow of each of the little boats, and 
three rousing cheers are given for the flag of our 
countrj^ as we sight it. 

We now proceed down the Upper Lake, near which 
is situated Lord Brandon's cottage, from which the 
tourist, if he is so disposed, can ascend the Purple 
Mountain ; this we failed to do, owing to lack of 
time. The Upper Lake is in length two and a half 
miles, and three-quarters of a mile in breadth, cov- 
ering an area of 430 acres, containing twelve islands, 
ranging from a rood to an acre in size. It is gen- 
erally admitted to be the finest of the three lakes, 
not for the lake itself, as the Lower Lake far sur- 
passes it for grandeur, combining, as it does, manj^ 
of the softer beauties of wood and watei- with the 
grand mountain scenerj-, and the wild rocky shores, 
which liem it in on all sides. 

Arbutus Island is one of tlie largest in the lake, 
and takes its name from the fact of its being com- 



128 Crusade to Europe 



pletely covered with the beautiful plant whose name it 
bears. The leaves of this plant, even in winter, are 
of a rich, glossy green, and so clustered at the tei'- 
mination of the branches, that the waxen, fresli-like 
flowers which hang' in graceful racemes, or the rich 
crimson, strawberry-like fruit, seem cradled in a nest 
of verdure. Mr. Coyne, who, we think, rather exag- 
gerates in his writings of Irisli scenerj', leading the 
tourist to expectations even greater than in reality 
are to be gratified, and in speaking of Macgillicud- 
dy's Reeks, in connection with this lake, puts his 
description in these lines : 

" On the left, the Reeks 
Lift to the clouds their craggy heads on high, 
Crowned witli tiaras fashioned in the sky, 
In vesture clad of soft ethereal hue. 
The Purple Mountains rise to distant view 
With Dunloe's Gap." 

And Weed, in his work, says " The Upper Lake 
displays much greater variety than the others, but 
that variety arises from different combinations of the 
same wild and uncultivated features ; in picturesque 
scenery, indeed, it far surpasses all the other lakes, 
and it is only by a patient examination of its shores, 
and particularly of the deep inlets along it, that ts 
full beauties can be discovered. As we near the 
eastern end of the Lake, it becomes but a narrow 
strip of water, more than lialf a mile long, called 
Newfoundland Bay, and every little island has a yarn 
about it which the boatmen will spin out; indeed, from 



OF Allegheny Commandfry. 



129 



the time you enter Ireland until the time j^ou leave 
it, you become literally jammed full of lies, so that 
there would scarcely be room enough for another 
square meal. 

One huge mass of rock, called the "Man of War," 
resembles an upturned hulk of a vessel, exactly, and 
of course there is a lie in connection with it ; and 
there is another with the resemblance of a foot-print 
in it, and that is where some ancient giant stepped 
in crossing the lake, once upon a time; and from its 
appearance, not only " were there giants in those 
days," but those giants must certainly have been 
troubled with corns. We then come to the Eagle's 
Nest, a precipitous rock, rearing its head seven hun- 
dred feet above the river, and is eleven hundred feet 
above the level of the sea, and in its chasms the 
American Bird of Paradise makes itself comfortably 
at home. The echo from this huge rock, as well as 
those surrounding it, is remarkable ; a call from the 
cornet or bugle is repeated nearly a dozen times, 
and answered from mountain to mountain, sometimes 
loud and without interval, and then fainter and fainter, 
and after a sudden pause again arising as if from some 
distant glen, and then dying insensibly awaj^ As we 
approach the "Meeting of Waters," the entrance to 
the Middle Lake, we pass through below the Old Weir 
Bridge, through the arch of which the water rushes, 
so that the boatmen stop rowing and simplj^ guiding 
the boat, and we dash through into Muck Ross, oi' 

I 



130 Crusade to Europe 



Middle Lake, containing an area of about six iiun- 
dred and eight}^ acres. All will remember Thackeray's 
description oi' the Middle Lake, in his " Irish Sketch 
Book," when, in answer to the question, " What is 
to be said about Tore Lake ? " replies : " When there, 
we agreed that it was more beautiful than the large 
lake, of which it is not one-fourth the size ; then when 
we came back, we said, 'No, the large lake is the most 
beautiful,' and so at every point we stopped at we de- 
termined that that particular spot was the prettiest 
in the whole lake. The fact is, and I don't care to 
own it, the}!' are too handsome. As for a man'*- coming 
from his desk in London or Dublin, and seeing the 
' whole lakes in a da}',' he is an ass for his pains. 
A child doing a sum in addition might as well read 
the whole multiplication table and fanc}^ he had it by 
heart." 

Thus saith Mr. Thackeray, and we do not know 
whether that gentleman was aware when he wrote the 
" Sketch Book," that Allegheny Gommandery was going 
to see " the whole lakes in a day," or not, but we 
agree with Mr. Thackeray fully, that we did make 
asses of ourselves in spending but one day on the 
lakes, and if the admired author will forgive us this 
time, though he has been dead some sixteen years, 
we would never give him another chance, were he 
living, to fore-ordain our coming to the " Lakes of Kil- 
larney." 

We now enter upon Lough Leane, or the Lower 
Lake, by passing below Brickeen Bridge. This Lake 



OF Allegheny Commandery. ■ 131 

is five miles long by three in width, and covers an 
area of some five thousand acres. There are some 
thirty islands in this lake, none over an acre in area. 
The names of the islands are derived from the suppo- 
sition of their being the resort of different animals, or 
from some fancied resemblance to some inanimate 
objects, sucli as Lamb Island, Elephant Island, Heron 
Island, Rabbit Island, Slag Island, OyLer Island, Gun 
Rocks, O'Donoghue's Horse, Crow Island, Grannet 
Rocks, &c. 

One legend, of which every inch of ground has a 
dozen, concerns the O'Donogliues of the Lakes, whose 
castle on Ross Island lies in ruins, but the fame of 
whose deeds still lives in the memories of the people, 
and that legend may be worth giving : " Once every 
seven years, on a fine morning before the first raj^s 
of the sun have begun to disperse the mists from the 
bosom of the Lake, the O'Donoghue comes riding over 
it on a beautiful snow white horse, intent upon house- 
hold afiairs, fairies hovering over him and strewing 
his path with flowers. As he approaches his ancient 
residence, everything returns to its former state of 
magnificence; his castle, his librar}^, his prison, and 
his pigeon-house, are reproduced as in olden time. 
Those who have courage to follow him over the lake 
may cross even the deepest parts dry footed, and ride 
with him into the opposite mountains, where his treas- 
ures lie concealed, and the daring visitor will receive 
a liberal gift in return for his company; but before 



132 Crusade to Europe 



the sun is risen, the O'Donoghue re-crosses the water 
and vanishes amidst the ruins of his castle." Now, 
when the seventli year comes round, Mr. O'Donoghue 
can count us in for liis companj^ on tlie trip to his 
hidden treasures, and he can re-cross as much water 
as ever he has a mind to, or vanish all he pleases, 
we will take the risk of finding our way home. 

Glena Bay ,is the part of the Lower Lakes first 
entered, and the quiet beauty which surrounds it, 
coupled with the sheet of water beyond, which 
seems to melt into the horizon, gives a favorable 
impression of the Lake. Then 'Sullivan's Cascade 
is worth}'^ of a visit, and then we row to Innisfallen 
Island, which is about half way between the east and 
west shores of the Lake, and is interesting on account 
of the historical associations in connection with it, 
and the charm thrown around it by the poetry of 
Moore. The island is about 21 acres in extent, and 
commands the most varied and lovely views of the 
Lower Lake, its shores, and the mountain scenery. 
On the island are the ruins of Innisfallen Abbey, 
which are scattered, over the island, and were sup- 
posed to have been founded by St. Finian, in A. D. 600, 
to whom the Cathedral of Aghadoe was dedicated. 
In this Abbey the celebrated "Annals of Innisfallen" 
were composed, which work contains scraps from the 
Old Testament; a compendious, though not by any 
means valuable," universal history, down to the period 
of Saint Patrick, with a more perfect continuation 
of Irish history to the beginning of the fourteenth 



OF Allegheny Commandery. • 133 

century. The Annals record that, in 1180, the Abbey 
of Innisfallen, which had at that time all the gold 
and silver and richest goods of the whole country 
deposited in it, as the place of greatest security, was 
plundered by Mildurie, son of Daniel O'Donoghue, 
as was also the church of Ardfert, and many persons 
were slain in the very cemeterj^ by the McCarthys. 
There is on the island a curious freak of nature 
in the shape of a tree which spreads at the ground 
like two separate and distinct trees, and some dis- 
tance up meets and grows together again, which gives 
it the appearance, as it is Called, of " The eye of the 
Needle," in connection with which there is the cus- 
tomary yarn, that any unmarried person passing through 
the space, (about six inches), they will be married 
within a year ; and it was wonderful to see how agile, 
and particularly, through how small a space the unmar- 
ried portion of our party could pass. And after all, 
it may be necessary for us to take back our assertions 
of all being yarns and falsehoods in Ireland, for in one 
instance the legend proved true since our return home, 
in the case of one of our number. 

With the lines of Moore, we say farewell to Innis- 
fallen Island : 

" Sweet Innisfallen, fare thee well, 

May calm and sunshine long be thine, 
How fair thou art, let others tell. 

While but to feel how fair be mine." 

" Sweet Innisfallen, long shall dwell, 
•In memory's dream that sunny smile, 
Which o'er thee on that evening fell. 
When first I saw that fairy isle." 



134 Crusade to Europe 



We then rowed across the lake to Ross Island, 
on the eastern shore, on which is a copper mine, 
opened in 1804. Crofton Croker asserts that "during 
the four years that Ross mine was worked, nearly 
£80,000, or four hundred thousand dollars' worth of 
ore was disposed of at Swansea, some cargoes pro- 
ducing £40 per ton." He adds " that this very rich- 
ness was the ultimate cause of its destruction, as sev- 
eral small veins of pure oxide of copper split off from 
the main lode and ran towards the surface. The ore 
of these veins was much more valuable than the other, 
consequentl}', the miners, who were paid by the quality 
as well as the quantity, pursued the smaller veins so 
near the surface that the water broke through into 
the mine in such an overwhelming degree, that an 
engine of thirty-horse power could make no sensible 
impression on the inundation. 

The Ross Castle is the next object of our visit, 
which is a conspicuous object from many positions on 
the lake, and from the summit is obtained a most de- 
lightful view ; and from its top we waved the little 
" Star Spangled Banner " our colors, kindly presented 
to us on our departure by Mrs. E. C Rafferty, and 
which was carried with us all round on our " Crusade." 
The Castle is, of course, in ruins, being the last to 
surrender in Munster. It was on the 26th clay of July, 
1652. Lord Muskerry had been defeated in the County 
Cork, and many of his followers slain ; and retreating 
to Ross Castle, he held out against the repeated at- 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 135 

*- 

tacks of General Ludlow, and not until " Ships of 
War " were seen upon the lake did the garrison sur- 
render. 

In his memoirs, Ludlow thus narrates the inci- 
cident : " When we had received our boats, each of 
which was capable of containing one hundred and 
twenty men, I ordered one of them to be rowed about 
the water, in order to find out the most convenient 
place for landing upon the enemy ; which, they perceiv- 
ing, thought fit, by a timely submission, to prevent 
the danger that threatened them. After the surrender, 
five thousand of the Munster men laid down their arms. 
Lord Broghill, who accompanied Ludlow, had granted 
to him " £1,000 yearly oub of the estates of Lord 
Muskerry." 

We then visit Muckross Abbey, which is very inter- 
esting tor its wonderful state of preservation, its age, 
and beauty of construction, with its pleasant and happy 
location, standing, as it does, on a beautiful plateau of 
ground hidden from sight amidst magnificent shade 
trees of various kinds, while around almost as far as 
eye can see, what a lovely landscape view, and how 
strikingly beautiful the fields and grounds are at present, 
in their bright and pretty green, owing to their season 
being much later than ours, and they not yet having 
garnered their harvests, while occasional glimpses may 
be had of the Lower Lake, from whicli we have just 
come. 

The Abbey is on the demesne of Mr. Herbert, M. 



136 Crusade to Europe 



P. It was founded in 1440, and consists of the Abbey 
and a church. The cloisters belonging to the Abbey 
are in the form of a sombre piazza, surrounding a dark 
court 3^ard, made still more gloomy by the presence of 
■a magnificent yew tree growing immediately in its centre. 
In the grounds, and within the ruin itself, are the 
to-mbs of those who have been and passed away to sleep 
the long, last sleep, to awake when " the last trump 
shall sound." One, we deciphered on a tomb-stone "as 
being dated August 12th, 1213, and several more from 
that date up to ItOO ; and on one stone, we saw that 
one man had died in 1*199, at the age of one hundred 
and fourteen years. 

Here our jaunting cars are in waiting for our return, 
to convey us to the hotel, and, driving along the beau- 
tiful drive, with constant and ever varying scenery, 
slumps of trees, elegant and rare ferns, and blooming- 
heather, with occasionally small open places to spacious 
■grounds, we see growing many fine species of sub- 
tropical plants ; sometimes in the shade of trees, at 
•others full and enchanting views of the lake and 
scenery opening out to us ; all around on our left are 
the mountains, all covered with heather, and the 
■"Mja-tle of Killarne}^," — the Arbutus wood. Not a 
speck of cultivation is to be seen on the side of an^^ 
of the hills which range from 1,100 to 3,000 feet in 
height, and the more mild and picturesque scener^'^ 
on the right,' makes them grander and nobler than 



OF Allegheny Commandery. , 137 



were the country coiitinuall}^ mountainous, and relieves 
what would he a monotony of beauty in the valley 
below. On the summit of one of these mountains is 
one of tlie alleged deepest lakes in the world, called 
the " Devil's Punch Bowl," so deep, in fact, that one 
da}'^ some foolish, venturesome man, , (we will wager 
some Yankee to plant a " Bitters " or " Cuticura " 
sign) climbed to the top of this mountain and tumbled 
in, going all the way through to Australia, landing 
at some lady's feet, and men were so scarce in those 
days, that she gobbled him up and took him unto 
herself. Fact I 

We can truthfully say, this day, a glorious day 
spent amid glorious scenery, is one that will ever be 
remembered as one of the brightest, sparkling gems 
in all our bouquet of sight-seeing, as well as the 
mau}^ pleasantries interspersed and experienced through- 
out the day, and which will never be forgotten. 

As we neared our hotel, the coach of another 
hotel passed us, filled with newlj^ arrived tourists, 
and happening to have our flag floating in the breeze, 
it was greeted with cheers loud and strong, and clapping 
of hands, and we were satisfied America was to be 
represented on the following day on the same ground 
we were just leaving. 

We should liked to have made the ascent of Man- 
gerton, until lately considered the highest mountain 
in Ireland, and also Macgillicuddy's Reeks, but our 



i-;8 Crusade to Europe 



time being short, we Aveve for the time being com- 
pelled to forego that privilege; so after satisfying our 
appetites after our hard day's sight-seeing, we retired 
to our rooms, and at nine o'clock Tuesday, the fol- 
lowing morning, bade farewell to Killarney and take 
train for Dublin. 




OF Allegheny Commander y. 139 



^eftie'^ Mo. 4. 



Killarney to Dublin. — Knights Templar transposed 
Into Knights of Submission. — Full Account of the 
Impressive Ceremonies of Initiation, as w^ell as 
the Grand Ennobling Principles of the Order.— 
In Dublin. — Incidents by the "Way. 

'IS with sincere regret we leave Killarney. We 
would feign have remained and rested a few 
days longer, for it seems to us we could never 
tire of its scenery, or of talking of it ; and we have 
been wonderfully favored as to weather, not having 
had since our da}^ of landing, one drop of rain, nor 
even a mist, though we had been lead to believe it 
rained about three hundred and twenty-five days in 
the year in Ireland. It is a feast for the eye here 
— all that beautiful, rich and fertile valley round and 
about us seems to lift itself, and smilingly say : "Pil- 
grim, I greet thee." We would tarr}^, if we could, 
much longer to feast our eyes on such a banquet 
as Dame Nature has prepared for those who will 
only come and partake. 

And just here the beautiful thought struck us, 



I40 Crusade to Europe 



expressed by one of the brightest, shrewdest and most 
astute criminal lawj^ers at our county bar, if he has his 
equal in this great Commonwealth, who, in a murder 
trial on one occasion in pleading the defendant's cause, 
brought forth this thought : " That although the poor 
prisoner at the bar had no friend, no relative in this wide 
world to plead his cause, save a paid advocate, yet to 
some one that face had been as sweet and dear as were 
any of those he was then addressing to their friends ; " 
and we thouglit it aptl}^ applied here in this little town 
where we were, that no matter how bloated, how seared, 
how besotted, how haggard, how ugly a face was, j^et to 
some one in this wide world, thousands of miles off in 
America, Australia, or to some one now filling a narrow 
grave, that face had been as dear, sweet and beloved as 
the most beautiful face and complexion of an}- fair 
Cleopatra. Some one living, or that has lived, loves or 
loved that face — though now with sunken eyes or bleared 
countenance — as dearl}^ as thej'^ loved their own. And 
so it struck us, continuing the thought in the National 
face of Ireland. Cursed by the corruption of her 
notorious land-owners, the finger of scorn and ridicule 
pointed towards her, for her people, their darkness 
superstition and ignorance, yet an Almighty Being has 
given her in nature a face that evevy Irishman justly 
loves, and loves so much they would die for her. And 
no wonder they love that face ; no wonder they love to 
call it the Green, the Emerald, and Erin's Isle. 'Tis 
here nature shows her beaut3\ Covering her face at 



OF Allegheny Commandery. . 141 



many points on the approach to her rock-bound coast, 
yet as you advance to her Killarney Lakes, she boldly 
removes her hands and exposes to the tourist a profile, 
rich in beauty and handsome in features ; and as the 
great galaxy of beauties are presented in the famed 
mountains of Switzerland ; the gardens of France and 
Italy ; the stern expression of Scotland ; Ireland can 
modestly and conscientiously thrust herself in upon the 
claimants for praise, and though perhaps not to receive 
the prize, will at least be furnished the highest commen- 
dation. 

But we are traveling on schedule time and our time- 
table says: " Leave Killarney 9:10 A. M., Tuesday, July 
16th," and at that hour we bid farewell to Killarney, and 
are on our way to Dublin, the capital city of Ireland ; 
the distance thither being one hundred and sixty-five 
miles, and time to run it, eight hours and twenty 
minutes. These facts and figures we know only because 
the time-table said so, for we will be honest and make 
an open confession here, and we will venture to say in 
every particular we are correct, that with the exception 
of one short glimpse at the great bogs between Mallow 
and Dublin, not one person in our compartment in the 
railway carriage, saw any of the country we passed 
through, know any of its features or anj^thing else con- 
cerning it. For our own part, the 16th day of July, 
18*18, so far as scenery, distance traveled, or time con- 
sumed in traveling it, is in our mind a perfect blank — a 
page in memory vacant, save the aforesaid compartment, 



142 Crusade to Europe 



the scenes enacted therein, and they are ineffaceably 
written on the tablet of our mind ; and this leads us to 
the famed " C." K. ot S., or one hundredth degree or 
Knights of Submission. 

Our compartment held, as did all the others, eight 
pei'sons. In it were the irrepressible " Quartette " — the 
Doctor, the Colonel, the Major, and " Carlisle" — and our 
venerable, handsome friend John Amsden, Esq., Robert 
Baxter, Esq., (the renowned and celebrated equestrian, 
a lo. GajD of Dunloe,) and our friend from Womelsdorf, 
Pa., one of the noisiest, funniest iellows and loudest 
talkers we ever had the pleasure of meeting. To our 
knowledge the poor fellow, who was really very delicate, 
had never open his mouth from the da}^ of leaving New 
York up to the time of our parting in London, save to 
eat his meals and occasionally to yawn. These were the 
occupants of an Irish railway carriage, and seating therh- 
selves the " Quartette " were soon deeply engaged in the 
usually quiet yet fascinating game of eucher. Now 
eucher is an innocent little game as a rule, even the 
rector of the parish may consistently sit down with his 
Avife and children, and " order up and go it alone " with 
none of his parishioners to "molest or make him afraid," 
but eucher as all other things can be fearfully abused, 
and it was on this occasion. We do not desire to be 
personal in this instance, though duty in writing up the 
history of this " Crusade " would almost lead us to tell 
all the truth and nothing but the truth, but we will spare 
the two who debased the pasteboards. Millions were 



OF Allegheny Commandery. . 143 

staked on each game, two of the party, (two well versed 
in army tactics,) betting their wealth profusely, while the 
other two looked sadly upon the demoralized pair and 
meditating upon the fearful consequences, a high official 
of Allegheny Commandery and an epauletted officer of 
the United States army were setting to the youthful 
Amsden, the guileless Baxter, and the noisy Laucks, not 
,to speak of the " innocents abroad " the Major and 
" Carlisle." On the peril of our lives and the cheerful 
assurance of a terrible threat of instant death, we were 
commanded not to tell on them upon our arrival home, 
not even to ever whisper anything concerning their 
gambling propensities, but acting under the advice of 
eminent counsel and a reminder by conscience of our 
duty in the premises, we cannot afford to be derelict; 
and there we were, covered b}^ a Colt's five-shooter in the 
hands of one, and a full grown stiletto in the hands of 
the other, and patiently compelled to sit and hold the 
sovereigns those two money-making plebeians were 
playing for. The eucher playing went rapidly on; both 
were euchered out of all they had, for we had been grad- 
ually coaxing up our courage, and having nursed it to 
the proper pitch, the Major suddenly rushed his hands 
up through liis raven and beautifully curled locks ; 
" Carlisle " loosened his cravat and by a strategic move- 
ment captured the money, pocketed the bank, dared 
either to lay hands upon us, and from that date the 
playing proceeded in a manner becoming people hailing 
from a land of freedom, an enlightened nation and a 
Christian country. (All fact !) 



144 Crusade to Europe 



As the day advanced it became very warm, a hot 
sun was pouring down its rays upon the roof of the 
carriage, and having worn out a couple packs of 
pasteboards, we were left in a state of " unfixedness," 
nothing to do, time hanging wearily upon our hands, 
in short, Micawber like, we were simply waiting for 
something to " turn up." 

Active minds such as those could not long remain 
idle, and knowing full well humanity was suifering 
very greatly from the evil of never knowing how to 
patiently submit to misfortune, evils, drawbacks, ad- 
versity, &c., it dawned upon the minds of the " Quar- 
tette," and, singular coincidence, almost simultaneously, 
proving again the oft-used expression, "that great minds 
run in the same channel,'' to take up the mantle of 
philanthropy, in favor and hope of benefiting man- 
kind ; so, following the thought, and girding our loins 
with these noble principles, we founded then and there 
the one hundredth degree or Knights of Submission. 
We trust the time draws nearer and nearer when we 
shall see this order — founded, as it was, by noble men, 
and for a noble purpose — spread rapidly from quarter 
to quarter of this great and magnificent world of ours, 
until the American, the European, the Asiatic, and the 
African shall be brought within the fold of its well 
founded principles and teg^chings ; and then, and not 
until then, shall this world — not as in parts, but as 
in one vast whole — move forward in the steady tread 
of progress, making the ball of advancement, elevation 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 145 



and education roll as though regulated by a faultless 
machinery. 

Oh, yes ! ye nations ; nations yet in darkness, and 
yet unborn, away in the unseen and unkuown future, 
the generations now rising and still to come will turn 
back the pages of histor}'- and sing ]oud songs ot 
praise to the Doctor, the Mnjor, the Colonel, and 
" Carlisle." Parents and grand-parents will sit around 
the cheerful fire of midwinter, in the happy family 
circle, with children upon their knees, and tell of the 
heroic deeds and humaniiarian thoughts of the afore- 
mentioned personages, and their names shall be lauded 
in the mouths of the nations, and, more than that, 
to those four will be given the honor, by all the 
sterner sex, who, from excess of work in the club 
room of the evening before, unselfishly sleep their 
sweet sleep, while their wives, who never have any- 
thing to do, no sick children to attend to, arise early 
to see that the household duties are proceeding in a 
manner that will prove satisfactory to their wear}' liege 
lords ; we say, to those four will be given the honor 
due them, of having instituted an order, whose first 
fundamental principle is Submission, so that with the 
thermometer twent}- degrees lower than nothing, lie may 
with due propriety, at 5 A. M., awaken and gently 
remark, "Arline or Rosalba, get thee down and start 
the fires," and Arline or Rosalba patiently, beautifully 
and cheerfully submits to this noble Sir Knight, and 
many other such cheerful examples we could set forth. 

J 



146 Crusade to Europe 



The "Quartette" formed tlie charter members, and 
constituted themselves at once the Subordniate and 
Grand Lodge of the Worhl, and, as is supposed hj'- . 
many, that all secret societies love darkness rather than 
light, we could not depart from the customary usages and 
so constituted this a very dark-lantern society, and at 
once proceeded to the election of officers, the Doctor 
being imanimousli/ elected Grand Mogul — we say unan- 
imously for very simple I'easons, these were the stub- 
born facts, that 'the Major had too much of his other- 
wise symmetrical frame turned under for pedals, the 
Colonel had grown too much broadways, and "Carlisle" 
had not 3'et reached the height of a giant, and, of course 
the Doctor usurped the position, none of us, in fact all 
combined, scarcely felt the ability to compel him to 
submit to a decorous nomination and parliamentarj^ 
election, so we simpl}'' had the pleasure of teaching 
ourselves the first cardinal point our order — we sub- 
mitted. We then went into secret council, " pulled down 
the blinds," that the curious and outside world might 
have no knowledge of our secrets, formed the obligations 
to our degree, which ran about in this wise : " That if 
any of the secrets were ever revealed by the candidate, 
the^^ would, upon their arrival in London, be taken to 
London Bridge, at the dread hour of midnight, and 
there chucked over to become food for the little fishes 
in the Thames, or converted into oleomargarine mud, 
which is prolific in the river of that name," &c. Then 
we formed our pass-words and our signs, but fearing to 
leave weeping and mourning friends we dare not give 



OF ALLEGHENY COMMANDERY. I47 

them ; we leave tliem to the charitable and thoroughly 
posted people who make up the Anti-Secret Society. 
We were then declared constituted, open and ready for 
business, and, without further ado, proceeded to the 
initiation of the remaining occupants of our compart- 
ments, the first being our venerable and wortli,y and 
social friend Mr. Amsden, then Robert Baxter, but for 
fear our friend Laucks would make more noise than 
ever, we made him an honorary member, declining to 
put him through. 

We needed a solicitor for our order, and employed 
our friend Mr. C. P. Cooper, our gentlemanly conduc- 
tor, for that responsible position, and made him an 
honorary member also, and he did his work nobly, 
as he can do all he takes in hand, and at each station 
he furnished us a fresh candidate, and between each 
station the degree was conferred, so that the order 
flourished beyond our most sanguine expectations, and 
we can assure you it was healthy. The ceremonies 
were very solemn, impressive and interesting, particu- 
larly impressive, and varied to suit the various can- 
didates. For instance, our two jolly good friends, 
Clinton and Fullerton, (very healthy gentlemen too, 
by the way,) were our first victims. They were poked 
into our compartment beaming with smiles. All within 
was quiet; calm and death-like stillness prevailed; 
but no sooner had the train pulled away from the 
station than Grand Mogul — the Doctor — vociferously 
yelled in his deep basso voice we have heretofore 



148 Crusade to Europe 



alluded to, "for the two villains to take off their hats." 
All sat looking on solemnly, and the poor fellows looked 
around in blank astonishment at this stern command, 
and, we presume, during their thoughts forgot to carry 
it out, at least the hats did not come off as briskly as 
should have been done, so in an instant the hands of 
the '' Quartette '' swept off the head coverings as though 
by magic, portions of their natural capillary substance 
with them. " Sit down," yelled the Grand Mogul in a 
still louder and deeper voice, and, of course, there were 
no places for the poor fellows to rest their weary, 
trembling bodies, when immediately four hands placed 
them in a horizontal position. This latter part of the 
imposing ceremonies they attempted to resent, it was 
getting pretty warm in there, so oflF went coats and 
hats ; and handling the candidates thusly until we reach- 
ed the next station, we inculcated into them, practi- 
cally and thoroughly, the beauties of Submission, and 
on the stoppage of the train we were all serenely settled 
for another unsubmissive victim. Along ciime our hard 
working Solicitor with poor Dr.Wm. M. Herron. We 
felt sorr}^ for the Doctor, as he was suffering consid- 
erably from an attack of rheumatism, but he, with all 
other fellow mortals, must be taught the principles of 
our order. Yet he did look like a lamb led to the 
slaughter. We dealt with hiui as gently as possible, 
however — put him on the broad of his back, and six 
or seven sat down on him. 

We got fearfully weak in the back when we tackled 



OK Allegheny Commanderv. , 149 

our venerable prelate, Sir Wm. H. Slack. He wore his 
usual serene countenance, a merry twinkle was in his eye 
as he surmised some job was afloat, and was smoking the 
inevitable " tobie." With all our combined force it was 
as much as we could do to plant the professor on the back 
of his " Prince Albert," but having him once there, his 
stately person made an excellent cushion for the valiant 
Knights of Submission, while the combined whoops in the 
victim's ears would have done credit to the noble Sioux 
warriors. Poor Stackhouse ! will any ever forget him ? 
he wasn't well at all. He was a lover of our favorite 
American garden vegetable, the cucumber ; he didn't 
feel good nohow ; we put him through in haste, and as 
tenderly as possible. Then thei'e was Eyster and Levis, 
always prim, neat and just so ; of course they suffered 
fearfully. Levis bought two new pairs of eye-glasses in 
Dublin, and Eyster — well, George didn't wear any, else 
he would have been necessarily compelled to go and do 
likewise. Theh there was our friend who had had the 
trouble with the custom house officers at Queenstown, 
and with the barber at Cork ; we refer to the gentleman 
of the peculiar moustache, and it was a much meditated 
upon question whether to run the risk of having our eyes 
put out in initiating him or not, but we accepted the 
danger, and he — well he went with our two last friends 
and bought himself a new moustache. 

Our good friend, Fred Beilstein, was commanded to 
take off his coat in the presence of the Grand Mogul. 
No, he wouldn't do it ; the result was, he was but as an 



150 Crusade 'io Europe 



infant in there, strong and all as he is; and we'll guarantee 
Mrs. B. has every reason to be thankful, for if her 
husband will not carry up the coal, cut the kindling 
wood and start the fire on cold mornings — we simply 
hint — several members of the order live in the city in 
which her husband resides, and can most effectually put 
him through again if necessary and in the shortest kind 
of metre. 

Seeing that we have so frequently committed our- 
selves in exposing the forms and ceremonies of initiation, 
we cannot see that much more harm can befall us by 
giving the " passwords." They were " Sit down ! " given 
in a loud tone of voice, and in a manner only members 
could recognize, and the answer to that was, " Come 
down and we'll make it pleasant for you." Yes, pleasant. 
Exceedingly so. Thus the day passed, and it was a 
terrible one, equaled only by one other to which we are 
to come, and no one could adequately describe the 
doings of that day. 

At 5:30 P. M. we arrived in the famous Irish capital, 
and were driven to Morrison's Hotel, where we had 
supper, then the " Quartette " made for a shaving saloon. 
We struck one, and even in so large a place as Dublin it 
was not much better than our experience in Cork. We 
got scraped, returned to the hotel and retired early. In 
the morning some ill-disposed wretches stuffed the toes 
of the " Majah's " and Colonel's shoes with wads of 
newspapers, and only the ever-ready corkscrew of the 
Colonel relieved the necessity of their staying indoors 
that day, or buying a new pair of " brogans." 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 



After breakfast the " Quartette " procured a jaunbing- 
ear and were soon down to work at sight-seeing in the 
Irish capital. We had a hard day's work of it, for Dub- 
lin being a very old city, full of interesting objects and 
points of interest for strangers, and our visit to this- 
ancient city being confined to one da}', everj^ moment of 
our limited time was fully occupied, and to advantage. 

Dublin is situated on the river Liffey, which, running- 
from, east to Avest, divides the city into nearly two equal 
parts, and upon a noble ba}' bearing tlie same name as 
the city. 

This famous old Irish city contains about 300,000 
inhabitants, represented in religion by about these 
figures : Catholics, 240,000 ; Episcopalians, 40,000 \ 
Presbyterians, 5,000, and of various other denominations,. 
5,000. It contains many fine buildings and is the seat 
of the famed Trinity College, and has beautiful parks^ 
botanical gardens, museums, a picture gallery, and thea- 
tres. We visited first the Bank of Ireland, which build- 
ing was formerly used by the Irish House of Lords, 
which was begun in the seventeenth century and cost 
£4,000. Originally intended for a hospital it became 
successively the seat of justice and a mansion. The 
present building, however, was commenced in 1'I29 and 
completed in 1*187, costing altogether £95,000. The com- 
pany of the Bank of Ireland purchased it in 1802, for 
the sum of £40,000 and an annual rental of £240. There 
is nothing particularly striking about the building itself, 
it being like all others over there, evidently erected to 



■152 Crusade to Europe 



stay. It is somewhat semi-circular in shape, with a beau- 
tiful colonnade of Ionic columns facing College Green, 
and a portico in the centre, in the tympanum of which 
is placed the Royal Arras, appropriatelj^ surmounted by 
emblematical figures of Hibernia, Commerce and 
Fidelit}'. The entrance to the former House of Lords 
was by a portico on the eastern side, the columns 
presenting the anomaly of the Corinthian order. The 
figures here are Fortitude, Liberty and Justice. The 
House of Lords to which visitors are admitted remains 
unaltered, save that the site of the throne is occupied 
by a statue of King George III. — America's sincere and 
great friend. (?) The chairs as used b}"- the lords, are 
still in their places, the long ta,ble in the centre aud the 
old tapestry hangs upon the walls. This has on the left 
a representation of King William crossing the Bo_yne, 
with poor Schomberg expiring almost under his horse's 
feet ; and on the right the siege of Derry. Both these 
pieces of fine needle work, which eclipse all efforts of 
our American ladies with their fancy work, are in most 
excellent state of preservation. 

Tlie mantle-piece in this room is very deserving of 
notice, being formed of dark Kilkenny marble, beau- 
tifully- sculptured. We were kindlj^ shown, by an 
attendant clad in livery that for gorgeousness would 
make a United States Major General's handsome uni- 
form actuall}^ appear shabby, the interesting operation 
of printing bank notes. 

Directly opposite the Bank stands Trinity College, 



OF Allegheny Commandery. . 153 

a handsome Coriuthian structure. It was founded under 
authorit}^ of Pope John XXII, closed in the time of 
Henry VIII, and re-opened in the reign of his daughter, 
Queen Elizabeth, who incorporated it in 1592, as the 
College of the Holy and Undivided Ti'inity. 

James I. and Charles II. befriended the College, 
for it had fallen to a very low ebb after tlie civil 
wars of the protectorate, endowing it with laiids in 
Ulster and other parts. Private individuals also made 
liberal bequests, among others those of Erasmus Smith 
are deservedly esteemed, seeing that no less than five 
professorships have been endowed by him alone. 

For a thorough good education, practical in its 
results, it exceeds, perhaps, Yale, Oxford or Cam- 
bridge, although not bearing the same name for enter- 
ing young men into society as either of the last named, 
which should be the best recommendation it could 
have. It is built of Portland stone, and measures 300 
feet in length, the color of the stone is black, and 
though plain, is very beautiful in appearance. At the 
entrance are very handsome statues of Burke, Folej^ 
and Groldsmith, cast in bronze. 

1'he Museum of the College, though small, contains 
a very fine collection of birds, the specimens being 
in the best of condition, and in fact all but complete. 
Among the antiquities are the old charter-horn of 
King O'Kavanagh, and an ancient Irish harp, said 
to have belonged to Brien Boroimhe. The examination 
hall is hung with portraits of illustrious characters, 



154 Crusade to Europe 



some of them originally students of the College, such 
as Dean Swift, Bishop Berkely, Archbishop King, Lord 
O'Neil, and others. In this hall is Hewitson's noble 
monument to the memory of the Provost Baldwin, a 
liberal benefactor to the College, who died in 1158. 
This monument, which is placed on the west side of the 
room, is composed of black and white marble, with 
the addition of Egyptian porphyry. It is emblem- 
matical, and represents the Provost' in a reclining 
position, with an angel at his feet holding a palm 
branch, while the genius of the university bends over 
him. Then there is the dining room, containing por- 
traits of Grattan, Lord Avonmore, Lord Chief Justice 
Downs, Frederick, Prince of Wales, the father of 
George III., and others. A handsome granite bell 
tow^er, ornamented by four statues t3qDifying Divinity, 
Medicine, Law and Science, was erected at the sole 
cost of the late Primate Beresford. 

The Library is perhaps the most interesting por- 
tion of the College, is 210 feet in length. It is 
entitled by law to a copy of every work published in 
Great Britain, and contains at present about 250,000 
volumes. There is one single collection in one portion 
which belonged to one person, Baron Fagel,and contains 
about 22,000 volumes, most of which are very rare, 
there being one copy of the Gospels, a Latin copy, 
known as the Book of Kells, and attributed to Saint 
Col umbo, who lived in the sixth centur3^ 

In College Green is an equestrian statue, in lead. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. . 155 

of William III., erected in ITOl. The figures are 
bronzed and gilt, presenting rather an imposing ap- 
pearance. 

Dublin, like every other town, has a castle, but not 
so imposing a one by any means as many others, as it 
was not intended in its day for defense against invaders 
from foreign countries, but simply for the protection 
of its peaceful citizens against the attacks of unruly 
neighbors. 

The Royal Chapel is worth a visit, it being one of 
the handsomest wood-carved churches in the kingdom, 
the gallery around the pulpit being surrounded by the 
elegantly carved coats-oi-arms of all the Lieutenant- 
Governors of Ireland, from 1113 to 18t4; and it is 
now the place of worship of the present Lieutenant- 
Governor, his family and household. A new handsome 
pulpit, the gift of the late Lord Carlisle, has lately 
been erected at the northeast side, and is entered from 
one of the pilasters, no stair-case being visible from 
the Chapel. Over the altar window, which is of painted 
glass representing the Passion, are figures of Faith, 
Hope and Charity. The Chapel was opened in 1814. 

St. Patrick's Hall, or the Grand Ball Room, is a 
spacious apartment, appropriately ornamented ; the 
empannelled ceiling bears in its centre a large allegor- 
ical painting of George III., supported by Justice and 
Liberty. In it are also chairs for the Queen and the 
Prince and Princess of Wales, which tliej' all sat in 
when here in 1861. Of course, we all " obsquatulated'' 



156 ' Crusade to Europe 



ourselves into each of the three chairs. Then the 
Royal Palace is to be seen, where Queen Yictoria also 
sat in 1861, and, of course, we " sitted " therein too. 

An Act of Parliament was passed August 10, 1854, 
to provide for the estahlishment of a " National Gallery 
of Paintings, Sculpture and the Fine Arts," for the 
care of a public library, and the erection of a public 
museum, and the building was begun in 1859, and 
opened in 1864, and cost £29,000. We next visited 
the Cathedral of St. Patrick. Tliis venerable saint 
erected a place of worship near the well in which he 
baptized his converts. The present building was begun 
by Archbishop Comjai, in 1190, though the original 
building was founded in 890. In 1362, the Cathedral 
was accidentally destroyed by fire, but was re-built and 
decorated in 1370, by Archbishop Minot. The building 
is cruciform, consisting of nave, transepts, choir and 
lad}' chapel. Many monuments decorate the interior ; 
in the chapel is a tablet to the memory of the Duke 
of Schomberg, with an inscription by Dean Swift, at 
one time Dean of the Cathedral. Then there is a mon- 
ument to the Earl of Cork, consisting of black marble, 
decorated with wood carving, gilding and painting, 
and represents the Earl and his lady in recumbent 
positions, surrounded by their children, sixteen in num- 
ber. In close proximity are two marble slabs, which 
mark the resting place of Dean Swift, and Mrs. Hester 
Johnston, the " Stella " of his poetry-. The Cathedral 
has been entirely restored since 1860, at the sole cost 



OF Allegheny Commander y. . 157 

of the late Sir B. L. Guinness, tlie celebrated brewer, 
who expended upwards of £140,000 upon it. 

The General Post Office is a building of considerable 
beauty, surmounted by figures of Hibernia, Mercury 
and Fidelity. Nelson's Monument, a tall, fluted column 
121 feet high, exclusive of the statue, stands beside the 
post office, and cost £6,856, raised by- subscription. 

The Four Courts we visited with Judge Moreland, 
but no courts were in session save the Court of Chan- 
cery, and we were deprived of the pleasure of hearing 
a good Irish speech from one or more of their learned 
barristers. 

The Four Courts is termed that, from the courts of 
the Queen's Bench, Chancery, Exchequer, and Common 
Pleas, being situated Avithin one building. The present 
structure was commenced on the site of a decayed 
Dominican monastery, in 17*76. and it was finished in 
1800, and cost £200,000. (It will be observed they 
know how to spend money in Ireland quite as well as in 
Pittsburgh, Allegheny, &c.) A handsome Corinthian 
portico occupies the centre and over it rises a finely 
proportioned pediment, bearing on its upper angle a 
colossal statue of Moses ; the other angles bear like 
statues of Mercy and Justice; and on the corners ai'e 
statues of Wisdom and Authorit3^ The great hall is 
circular, and sixty-four feet in diameter ; and serves as a 
common hall, with exits to the different special courts. 
It is illuminated by jets of gas issuing from a torch 
borne in the hands of a colossal statue of Truth. 



158 Crusade to Europe 



Another statue, that of Sir M, O'Loghlen, by McDowell, 
is worthy of notice. 

We then visited Christ's Church Cathedral, some- 
times styled the " Church of the Holy Trinity." This 
building was commenced in 1038, and has quite an inter- 
esting history in connection with its age. It was made 
the repository for various relics, and among others the 
shrine of St. Cubic, stolen by the people of Dublin from 
the Welsh. It was in this Cathedral that the church 
liturgy was first read in Ireland in the English tongue. 
In 1553, Queen Mary ordered mass performed in the 
Cathedral, which was done for six years, when the 
reformed style of worship was restored. This place of 
worship is a great attraction to those fond of display of 
a cathedral service, which is performed every Sunday at 
eleven o'clock by a full choir. Henry Roe, distiller, 
expended £200,000 in the restoration of the building to 
its present beaut3^ 

From the centre of Carlisle Bridge, so called in honor 
of Lord Carlisle, who was viceroy at the time when the 
bridge was commenced in It 82; is obtained one of the 
most interesting views within the city. 

In front of City Hall is Hogan's statue of O'Connell ; 
the Hall contains a celebrated statue of Grattan, with 
the appropriate inscription — 

FILIO 

OPTIMO CARISSIMO 

HENRICO GRATTAN 

PATRIA 

NON INGRATA 

1829. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 159 

In Aungier street, we find at Iso. 12, a queer looking old 
house, the birth-place of Moore. In this house the Bard 
of Erin was born on May 28th, 1180. 

Surrounding Stephen's Green are the finest houses in 
the city. Fronting upon it are the Royal College of 
Surgeons, and the Ro^^al College of Science, the Catholic 
Universit}^, the Shelbourne Hotel, and St. Vincent's 
Hospital. In the centre of the Green is a statue of 
George II. 

We then drive to Phoenix Park, the Hyde Park of 
Dublin and the Central Park of New York. It covers 
an area of 1150 statute acres, and is well planted with 
timber. Deer are plentiful, and as in other extensive 
grounds where they are frequently caressed by visitors, 
are very tame and docile. The park is beautifully laid 
out in walks and drives, and handsome flower beds. 
The first object noticeable is the obelisk — the Wellington 
Testimonial — erected in 1817, b}' his fellow townsmen of 
Dublin, to testify their great esteem for him as a military 
commander. It cost £20,000. 

The Carlisle memorial statue which is placed in the 
" People's Pai'k" is a successful work of art by Fole3^ 
It commemorates the Lord Lieutenancy of the late Lord 
Carlisle, who for six 3'ears acted in that capacit}^ To 
the right, near the entrance of the park, is the military 
hospital, with a fine granite front, ornamented with a 
clock tower and cupola, also the constabulary barrack, 
where each member of the corps spends a portion of his 
time in training in tlie use of arms and other military 



i6o Crusade to Eurohe 



exercises, subsequent to enlistment, and tlie zoological 
garden, and the summer residence of the Lord Lieutenant, 
and we are through with the park. 

Returning to the city we proceed to the exhibition 
palace, a very elegant building, composed of iron and 
glass, with a large concert hall to accommodate 3,000 
persons and one to accommodate 1,500 persons, a lecture 
room to hold 500 persons, a practice room for a large 
orchestra, and a dining room one hundred and seven feet 
in length and thirty feet wide, and there are also exten- 
sive picture galleries, constructed on the most improved 
principles. The hall, which has its floor laid with 
encaustic tiles, forms a permanent sculpture court. On 
entering, the cascade at the end of the pleasure garden 
is seen in the distance from the hall, which witli its Caen 
stone columns with carved capitals, and those of the pic- 
ture gallei'y, form a very effective design. 

In the centre of the building is an elegant fountain 
with groups of figures representing Leinster, Munster, 
Ulster and Connaught. At the southern end is a pic- 
turesque grotto fountain, surmounted by a figure of Erin, 
and most natural in its construction, beautifully covered, 
with plants of various descriptions. 

During our visit to Dublin, the annual rose show was 
in exhibition at the palace, and such a display of those 
beautiful flowers we have never seen ; every possible 
variety and family, and had we not seen the size of 
some and been told of them, we could not possibly have 
been led to believe it ; oh ! how rich and beautiful they 



OF Allegheny Commandery. , i6i 



were ; and such a collection of pansies ; while the frag- 
rance filled the air so sweetly, we should have loved to 
have remained forever in that approach to the dwellings 
of the fairies. 

But we cannot stop to describe minutely all the 
buildings of prominence with which Dublin abounds, for 
our time is limited and we must hurry on. There is the 
Custom House, in the centre of the front of which is a 
fine allegorical composition, representing Britannia and 
Hibernia in a marine shell, a group of merchantmen ap_ 
proaching, and Neptune driving away famine and despair. 
An attic story rises behind the pediment and on this are 
placed right above the doric columns of the portico, 
colossal statues of navigation, wealth, commerce and in- 
dustry. On the north side it is decorated with well 
designed figures representative of Europe, Asia, America 
and Africa. Then there is the Mechanics Institution and 
the Royal Hibernian Academy, erected in 1824, for the 
promotion of the fine arts. 

In Britain street is the gloomy building named New- 
gate, the scene of poor Lord Fitzgerald's death in 1798r 
where in the same year the barristers, Henry and John 
Sheares, with John McCann, Secretar}^ to the Leinster 
Committee of United Irishmen, were all executed for 
high treason. We then come to King's Inns, a beauti- 
ful and imposing building. The Library is a new build- 
ing erected in 1827, and cost £20,000. But we must 
hastily pass over Stephen's Hospital, the Royal Hospital, 
the Corn Exchange, Linen Hall, Conciliation Hall, the 

K 



1 62 Crusade to Europe 



scene of the great O'Connell triumphs ; St. Mary's 
Church, St. Michael's Church, St. Andrew's Church, one 
of the oldest chapels in Dublin ; St. jSiicholas' Church, 
and many other interesting points. And feeling that we 
had done a hard day's work, we returned to our hotel 
about 6 P. M., for dinner, and to prepare for the recep- 
tion to be tendered us on that evening by Lodge No. 33 
of Ireland, and presided over by the Grand Officers of 
the Provincial Grand Lodge of Ireland. 

At 8 o'clock a committee called and escorted us in a 
body to the Masonic Temple, where the Grand Officers 
of the Grand Lodge of Ireland were in special session to 
receive us. Here we saw the Masonic work of Great 
Britain exemplified, and about 10 o'clock we were con- 
ducted through the building, which was illuminated 
throughout for our benefit, and they have a very hand- 
some building indeed. A strange but beautiful feature 
in their commandery room is the reflection upon the 
windows (stained glass,) which has the appearance of 
the lights being on the opposite or outside of the 
windows. The Prince of Wales, his brother the Duke of 
Connaught, and several other dukes and earls, have their 
own chairs here, with their coats-of-arms engraved there- 
on. We were then conducted to the large and spacious 
banquet hall, where an elegant repast was spread, 
consisting of meats, vegetables, etc., in many courses, as » 
well as all the delicacies of the season in fruits, not only 
of their own, but also of our own and other countries, 
common with us, but rare there. We spent with our 



OF Allegheny Commandery. . 163 

brethren of Dublin an evening that shall never be forgot- 
ten ; the social and fraternal kindness shown us by each 
and every individual was truly great and beyond any 
anticipation. Speeches and songs were indulged in, and 
loud were the shouts of applause and cheers that rang 
through that hall upon Deputy Grand Master Shekleton 
concluding his address of welcome, which was cheerfully 
responded to by our Em. Commander, Lee S. Smith. 
But the palm of the evening, notwithstanding the fact 
that most of the presiding officers there were Dublin's 
pick of barristers, was our little Captain-General's reply 
to the toasts of " Our American brethren " and the 
" President of the United States," when our modest and 
unassuming friend, Sir William C. Moreland, arose, and 
in his slow, quiet manner commenced his remarks, every 
word and sentence measured, weighed and counted. He 
spoke for three-quarters of an hour, and seemed in such 
excellent trim for it, the words seemingly rolling from 
him as pouring water from a bucket. His language, elo- 
quence and oratory, of which he is the most gifted person 
in our knowledge, were simply grand, and with what 
wonderful beauty his periods were rounded, equaled 
only on one occasion, viz : on his address at Library 
Hall, New Year's Eve, 1816, when his vivid and 
eloquent description of Samson being brought forth 
from his dreary prison, to bring, in a few moments, 
death to so many of his enemies, none will ever 
forget who heard him. It took some time to settle 
down after the cheers and applause of the Major's 
address, and no more speechifying for that evening. 



Crusade to Europe 



Several songs were given by one or two of their 
members, and by Mr. Slack and one or two others 
of our party ; by the way, one by Col. McConihe, 
who has a very sweet tenor voice — no, we were mis- 
taken, it wasn't the Colonel either. The meeting was 
closed by prayer by Sir Knight Dr. Robinson, of 
Dublin, chaplain of the body we visited. The doctor 
is one of the finest scholars and linguists in the woi'ld, 
being a good grammatical teacher of thirteen languages. 
Thus we were received in Dublin, and to one and all of 
our Dublin friends we can truthfully say, for all our 
party, it was an evening spent that will ever be remem- 
bered as one of the brightest of our Crusade. 

We said the Colonel didn't sing there that evening; 
no, that's -so, he didn't. We remember now, the "Quar- 
tette " was broken on that evening ; Smith, Moreland 
and " Carlisle " attended the banquet, a,nd we appointed 
the Colonel a committee of one from the " Quartette " 
to prepare an " itinerary^'''' at which he was an admira- 
ble adept. We just left it all to the Colonel, and he 
did his work nobly, having it ahead as far as London 
when we were in Dublin ; but on our coming back 
to the hotel after the reception, we were surprised 
not to see the Colonel busily engaged at his allotted duty, 
he had concluded to go the theatre. The Colonel was 
a wonderfull}^ self-denial man. 

Morrison's Hotel, at which we stopped, we are sorry 
to say, was not quite "A 1," and up to the mark, meals 
being very poor, attendance worse, and house accommo- 



OF Allegheny Commandery. ' 165 

dation not much better. We are perfectly willing, how- 
ever, to make all due allowances for the latter, as the 
house was undergoing improvements ; but we must repeat 
that the bill of fare, and particularly the attendance, 
was very poor. It was, however, the only place at which 
we stopped on our whole tour that was not strictlj^ first- 
class, and up to the letter of the contract. We will 
never forget poor Baker at this hotel, the morning we 
left, and didn't get his breakfast — the look of disgust on 
Baker's face, to any incoming travelers, would have 
killed an}^ hotel dead. 

The next portion of our letter brings us to one 
of the most pleasant portions of our tour anj^where, 
viz : a day with our brethren of Enniskillen ; and we 
are almost afraid to tell how those, noble, big-hearted, 
grand Irishmen — we cannot use better words than call 
them genuine Irishmen — received and treated us, for 
fear of a whole batch of American Masonic bodies 
packing up and going over there and taking those 
good people completely by storm ; but even with that 
risk, we cannot refrain from relating one of the most 
glorious days of the Pilgrimage, so that our good 
friends of Enniskillen must not hold us accountable 
if we are the cause of a wholesale imposition upon 
their kindness and good nature. 



1 66 Crusade to Europe 



^ette'dr Mo. 5. 

Dublin to Enniskillen, Londonderry, Giants' Cause- 
■way and Belfast. — Riding on an Irish Locomotive. — 
A Grand Day Spent -with a Glorious People. — A 
Gala Day -with True Friends and the Ladies of 
Enniskillen. — Incidents by the "Way. 

^^^jr%N Thursday morning, July 17th, at 9 A. M., we 
%CW took train for Londonderr}^, as prescribed upon 
our schedule, but tlirough the kuidness of our 
agent, Mr. E. M. Jenkins, subsequent to the arrangement 
of the tour, and being earnestl}^ solicited to spend a 
short time at Enniskillen, and from the pressing manner 
of the invitation we were induced to break our route, to 
accept the invitation so warmly and cordially tendered, 
our warm friends of that old city contracting to make 
up all lost time, and place us again on schedule time 
table, and had we not done so, had we missed that day, 
we should never have forgiven ourselves, and knowing 
what we do now, we should rather have omitted half a 
dozen other places and- sights, than the pleasure of one 
shake of the hand with those good people. We, never 
having been there, presumed it would be rather an in- 
formal affair in that little inland town; but on our arrival 
there at 1 P. M., the hearty social welcome tendered to 



OF Allegheny Commander y. • 167 

each and every one of our party, made us feel so much 
at home, that we have many times regretted our visit 
was not lengthened there to as many days or weeks, as 
we were there hours. On our way to Enniskillen, pass- 
ing through a beautiful country, we were kindly per- 
mitted to ride upon the engine drawing our train, and 
thei*e to see how the engineer handles the " throttle" on 
one of those " blarsted British engines," and it may not 
prove uninteresting to know how they railroad in that 
country. 

The road on which we are traveling is single track, 
the engine is not so fine looking as are our American 
locomotives, not so handsomely finished, nor so symmet- 
rical looking in its entirety ; the engineer has no " cab," 
and consequently is continually exposed to the inclemen- 
cies of the weather, and while on duty is not permitted 
to sit down under any circumstances. They have, how- 
ever, a method for running trains on single line tracks, 
that is assuredly a preventative to railroad collisions, in- 
stead of b}^ telegraphic and written orders as we do; it is 
done in this wise : To use an illustration : — Say for in- 
stance we use our Union Depot in Pittsburgh as a start- 
ing pointj^iid the city of Philadelphia the next nearest 
stopping station, just before a train would leave the 
Union Depot, the train dispatcher hands the engineer of 
the train a wooden block, say six or eight inches long, 
on which would be a brass plate engraved " Pittsburgh 
to Philadelphia ;" this he places in a socket for the pur- 
pose in his cab, or where the -cab should be, then he 



1 68 Crusade to Europe 



starts with his train, liaving the right of way on that 
stretch to Philadelphia, he then hands the block to the 
depot master or train dispatcher at Philadelphia, and is 
again given one stamped say, " Philadelphia to New 
York" and so on according to distance or schedule time 
consumed in running his distance. 

Now there being but one of these blocks for use be- 
tween any of these points named, the engineer, and he 
onl}'^, holding the same has the right of way between the 
two points for which he carries the block ; so it will be 
perceived the chances of collision or colliding are an im- 
possibility, for on a train reaching Philadelphia coming 
west the engineer could not, and dare not enter the next 
block until the train bound east on that block reaches 
Philadelphia, and they exchange their " wooden orders" 
at that point. Such a system is much slower, of course, 
than ours, but it is entirely and absolutely safe and 
secure against accidents, such as telescoping, &c. 

As stated, at 1 P. M. we arrived ^at Enniskillen, which 
is the chief town of the county Fermanagh and contains 
about six thousand inhabitants. It is built on an island 
in the river connecting the Upper and Lower Lough 
Erne. The principal manufacture is cutlerjr ; a consider- 
able quantity of straw-plait is made in the neighborhood, 
and the butter market is one of the best in the kingdom. 
The town is quite an important military station, contain- 
ing large barracks, and two forts to command the pass 
across the river. But we prefer to speak more of the 
people of Enniskillen, their generosity and goodness, 



OF Allegheny Commandeky. 



than of the town itself, foi" though on every hand while 
on our tour kindness was only known to us from the 
people we had the pleasure of meeting and visiting, yet 
going tliere, to every one of them being entire strangers, 
and tliey to us tlie same, the magnanimous reception 
accorded us on that day will ever remain one of the 
brightest and greenest spots in our memory of our Euro- 
pean Crusade. 

Through the kindness of railway officials our effects 
were permitted to remain in our cars, and during our 
stop in Enniskillen were sent by special train to the 
lower end of the Lough to await our coming by steamer. 

Arriving at Enniskillen, as stated, we were impressed 
with the idea that " Barnum'' was exhibiting in the 
neighborhood of the depot, for we are prone to believe 
not one single person of the six thousand inhabitants 
was missing, from the crowd that greeted us on our 
arrival there. 

We were received by Dr. 0. Ternan, Past Pro- 
vincial Senior Grand Warden ; Pro. W, Jones, W. M., 
of 891 of Ireland, and Dep. Provincial Grand Master 
Col. J. G. Irvine, D. L., High Sheriff of County Fer- 
managli, and after a hearty handshaking and welcome 
by these brethren, we were conducted down to the Royal 
Victoria Hotel. The streets were crowded with the good 
people of Emiiskillen, they coming up indiscriminately to 
our side, engaging us in conversation, and exchanging 
many pleasant words with us ; wliile it was a most amus- 
ing sight to see the " wee Irishmen " and " wee Irish 



lyo Crusade to Eurui'e 



lasses," to the number of four or five gross, perched on 
the fences like chickens at roost, getting a good square 
look at the " Yankees," with loud cheers of pleasure from 
their good hearty lungs. Reaching the hotel, we were 
immediately taken into the dining-hall, where, if such a 
thing were possible, a banquet exceeding even that of 
Dublin was prepared and in waiting for us, the table 
being profusely covered with beautiful baskets, pillars 
and columns of exquisite cut flowers, the air filled with 
their sweet perfume, while on every napkin was pin and 
button-hole bouquets, all prepared by the young ladies 
of the town. Even in that little place the table was 
laden with all the delicacies of the season, and with the 
notorious appetites each had, and was obtaining, we can 
vouch for the fact that Allegheny Commandery did not 
have a black mark on that occasion, for any remissness, 
in duty. Each Sir Knight stood by his post nobly, de- 
termined to die ere having the stigma of traitor or traitor 
attached to his name, and for " A 1 " staying qualities, 
commend us to our worthy friends the Doctor, Major and 
the Colonel on such occasions. 

We spoke of the young ladies of Enniskillen a moment 
ago — ah ! there's the point ; such a collection of beauty, 
rare opportunities are ever proffered for such a sight, 
and we venture the very broad assertion, that the daugh- 
ters, the young ladies of Enniskillen, are not excelled, 
if equaled, in their briglit, rosy-red cheeks, their every 
evidence of robnst health, laughing, sparkling eyes, and 
teeth of pearl ; and there is where we married men who 



OF Allegheny Commandery. ■ 171 



had left our wives at home, unwilUng sacrifices to mos- 
quitoes and " sich," in vulgar pai'lance., had the inside 
track on our venerable prelate, Professor Slack, and our 
good friend Schroeder, who, by the way, was on his 
bridal tour, and it was just about at this point that that 
fact leaked out, though it was fearful to hear the Doctor, 
vowing and declaring to some fair young lady of Ennis- 
killen that such a thing as being married had never 
been thought of by him ; and the Major, smiling sweetly, 
captivating his fair hearer with some beautifully-worded 
sentences, declaring it had ever been his desire to meet 
some fair young lad}^ of the Emerald Isle who could love 
him for himself, and curl his beautiful locks preparatory 
to wending his way to the four courts of Grant, Fifth 
avenue, Ross and Diamond streets ; wliile it was even 
worse to hear tlie Colonel avowing himself to be a wid- 
ower living on a full pay pension of the retired list of 
Uncle Samuel's brave men; and Professor S., telling all 
around that his wife, who accompanied him, was " Car- 
lisle's " mother, and she his own sister ; and Schroeder — 
well, we won't say anything about him, we'll let him off 
easy ; and Dr. H., too, for we occasionally require the 
latter gentleman to come and visit us ; but the Recorder 
of the Commandery, feeling it to be his duty, gave each 
young lady a roster of the Commandery, with a check 
mark opposite the name of each, which fully explained 
the bachelor or beiiedictine state of all. 

After our banquet at the hotel, from which floated 
the beautiful, grand old flag, the " Stars and Stripes," 



172 Crusade to Europe 

alongside the British Union Jack, tlie lines were formed 
and we proceeded to the Militia Barrack Quay, on 
Lough Erne, but our proceeding tliere may be better 
described than we could do it ourselves, by giving 
an extract from the Fervianagh Mail^ the live paper 
of Enniskillen. It sa3^s : 

"About two o'clock the party proceeded to the 
steamer " Ross Clare," which laj^ off the Militia Barrack 
Quay, where the following awaited the excursionists: 
Col. Irwin, D. L., High Sheriff of Tyrone, Deput}^ 
Grand Master of T'yrone and Fermanagh ; Bro. Ternan, 
Past Prov. Senior Grand Warden, and Mrs. and the 
Misses Ternan, (3) ; Brother Price, Prov. G. S. B.; 
Mrs. Innes, Dunbar, and her sister ; Miss Patterson, 
Clenross ; Miss Molyneux; Brother W. C. Trimble, P. 
M. 891; Miss Trimble; Brother Sinclair Trimble, 891; 
Brother C. J. Jones, 891 ; Br©ther William Jones, W. 
M., 891 ; Brother Edward Athill, P. M., 891 ; Miss 
Athill ; Brother W. H. Morrison ; Miss Morrison ; 
Brother J. McCausland, the Lusties ; Brother S. Arm- 
strong, W. M., 473 ; Mrs. Armstrong ; Bro. Gunning ; 
Bi'other B. Gamble ; Brother R.. C. Donnell, Newton- 
stewart ; Mrs. Scott, O'Magh, and her sister ; Brother 
Dr. Todd ; Brother Captain Irvine ; Bro. R. Fawcett, 
Derripin ; Brother Dr. Fawcett; Brother G. Duggan ; 
Mrs. O'Leary : Miss James ; Brother G. Elliott ; Miss 
Elliott ; Brother J. Elliott and Mrs. Elliott ; Brother 
G. Bradshaw ; Brother G. Pratt ; Brother W. Teele ; 
Brother Ryan, Mrs. Ryan, Miss Ryan, &c., &c." 



OF Allegheny Commandery. . 173 



We would say here, by way of parenthesis, to the 
Mail, who modestly' refrains to tell all the story, that 
we were immediately taken round and introduced, and 
soon were made to feel, from their general warm- 
heartedness and sincere kindness, perfectly at home, 
and were soon well acquainted — no half-way meeting 
and greeting, but real, true whole-souled welcome. 

To resume, the Mail says : "About half-past two, 
the steamer was under weigh, that fact being signified 
by the discharge of two guns from her stern. On 
past Portora and Derr^^gore, the old castle and dev- 
enish hoary with age, and rich In the memories of 
the past and present, past Rossfad and Ross Clare, 
Avhere the hotel looks down on one of the fairy scenes 
of Ireland — looks down on a hundred islands clothed 
in the ripe foliage of summer, rising gracefully as 
swans from the water — looks down on projecting head- 
land and receding bay, far stretching hills and moun- 
tains that distend themselves to the horizon till sky 
and mountain merge as one in a dim azure blue. 
The various objects of attention en route were pointed 
out, and as well as the intervals of refreshment and con- 
versation would allow, the legendary stories in con- 
nection were told. From Killalea's noble tower a 
flag betokened a hearty greeting from the owner, 
who so graciously made it convenient to be present 
with us, when passing the Lusties, seven small 
cannon thundered out with a salute, which was answered 
by lusty cheers from the voyageurs on board ; and thus 



174 Crusade to Europe 



with a bright sky overhead, and below the blue lake, and 
away in the distance the green fields and the blue hills, 
did the few hours pass — alas ! too quickly — while Amer- 
icans and Irishmen exchanged ideas and related adven- 
tures, and perhaps indulged in a little sentiment, for 
there were many fair ladies on board. Dr. Robert Arm- 
strong, of Belleek factor}^, iDresented each of his Ameri- 
can brethren with one of his Masonic plates, on which 
various symbols of the craft are described in order and 
in artistic style, as a souvenir of our visit, the whole 
illustrating the lectures of the three degrees as is shown 
by an accompanying circular written by Mr. Armstrong, 
and which alone would indicate that he is what is popu- 
larl}^ known as a " bright Mason." 

As the boat appoached the wooded shores of Castle 
Caldwell Point, the Eminent Commander, Sir Lee S. 
Smith, called our party together and said they had just 
passed through scenes of singular beauty, and been the 
recipients of great kindness and cordiality, and that the 
beauty of Lough Erne and the kindness of Enniskillen 
friends could not be excelled. Ireland was 

" The gem of the ocean," 

and Enniskillen the gem of the tour. 

Therefore he called them to order for the purpose of 
giving them an opportunit}^ of presenting their thanks 
to the Enniskillen brethren as a testimonial of how the}^ 
appreciated what had been done for them — (applause) 
and to Brother Ternan. — (Cheers.) 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 



175 



Sir William C. Morelaiid, Captain-General, moved 
that a committee of three be appointed to draw up suita- 
ble resolutions expressive of the feelings of the party. 
The motion was warmly adopted. The Commander then 
proposed three rousing cheers, American cheers, for the 
brethren who had done them such honor that day. The 
cheers, and rousing ones at that, were immediately given, 
and followed by three " sky-rockets " a peculiar American 
style of showing approval, in which the " hiss " — 
" boom " and " ah " are made to resemble the noise of 
the pyrotechnic article from which it takes its name. 

Brother Ternan was then called on, and in reply to 
loud cries of " speech," then said that Irish Freemasons 
were always delighted to meet their American brethren. 
It had afforded the Ermiskilleners the greatest pride and 
pleasure to bring so distinguished a company down the 
lake, and he hoped they had enjoyed themselves. Their 
" best " in Enniskillen was small, but they had done their 
best to give their visitors a cordial Irish welcome, and 
had they had more time, pei'haps more would have been 
done. But there was a lesson here for outsiders. Years 
had proved that brotherhood was not merely in name ; 
and he was satisfied that if he went to America he would 
be received in the same spirit. (Just come out and try. 
Brother Ternan. In the motto of our noble Order, the 
Knights of Submission, "We'll make it pleasant for 
you.") Brother Ternan continued to say, that it was 
his pride to be not only an Irish Mason, but an American 
Mason by adoption, for they had adopted him into two ot 



176 Crusade to Europe 



their encampments ; and if ever he crossed the Atlantic 
he would find himself as a brother amongst brethren. 
The Enniskillen brethren had entered into this matter 
heartily, and none more so than Brother Armstrongs of 
Belleek, whom he was glad to see they were about to 
thank for his plate. Brother Ternan concluded by 
giving a hearty welcome from the brethren of Fermanagh 
and Tyrone, and wishing the American visitors a safe 
and pleasant journey. (Cheers.) 

Brother R. W. Armstrong having been called upon 
amidst loud cheering, arose, and having a satchel in his 
hand, and said that Brother Ternan's exhaustive speech 
had left him nothing to say. But he was there as a bag 
man (laughter,) and though he was bankrupt in words, 
he was solvent in gratitude. It had been his honor to be 
a member of this distinguished Order in Fermanagh for 
twenty-five years, and he could state without fear of 
contradiction, that no man would be as good and not 
being a Freemason, as he would be if he were a Free- 
mason. (Cheers.) From his knowledge of the world as 
a Christian and as a Freemason, he held that religion 
was a chain that binds man to Grod, and Freemasonry 
the silver cord that binds man to his fellow man. 

Sir Knight, Major W. C. Moreland, was then called 
on to " speech," and in reply said that if he remained 
long in Ireland he would be an Irishman. We had had 
so many acts of kindness crowded upon them that one 
place seemed to vie with another in showering its favors 
upon them ; but he thought the handsomest Irish Masons 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 177 



were to be foniicl amongst the Enniskillen party. (A 
voice : What about the ladies ? The Major replied he 
would come to that.) The Bmiiskilleu Masons were all 
handsome men, and their remarkably intelligent appear- 
ance was only equaled by the modesty with which they 
had shown their good nature and hospitality. But there 
was a star that outshone them all. , Not only had these 
Enniskillen brethren brought their hospitality with 
them, but they had also hrought their wives and daugh- 
ters, their sisters and sweethearts, who were the crowning 
glory of the Masonic fraternity. There was a young 
lady in the party he had the good fortune to meet (you 
see we told you so earlier in this letter, he was hap[)y,) 
who had the good taste to say she would not marry a 
man who was not a Freemason. (Must have gotten down" 
to ''business" right quick; don't you think so, reader?) 
He would never forget that sentiment so long as he 
remembered the emerald green of old Ireland itself. 
And as long as they had the attachment of their wives 
and daughters for their brotherhood, all that could be 
said against Freemasonry would not prevail ; no, it 
would remain as long as the glorious sun kissed their 
glorious hills and fertile valleys. The feeling of the 
ladies will make you better and truer men, and more 
constant lovers. Brother Moreland then proceeded in a 
flowery strain of oratory suitable to the " silver-tongued 
orator of Allegheny," to speak of the beauty of Ireland., 
and concluded with thanks to his host. 



178 Crusade to Europe 



Brother Slack, who had been round the excursion in 
1811, and was warmly recognized b}^ Dr. Ternan, Price, 
and others, then sang in truly good style, and with well 
trained and cultivated voice the Masonic song, " We 
meet upon the level and part on the square." 

All this time we must not forget the scenery of the 
lake on which we are sailing. Lower Lough Erne is 
styled the Windermere of Ireland, although wanting the 
varied picturesqueness of Killavney, it is undoubtedly a 
charming lake, and abounds with interest to the artist, 
the antiquary and the naturalist. It is studded with 
little islets, which dip their luxuriant foliage into the 
water, adding the beauties of a sylvan stream to the 
placid sternness of a majestic lake. 

To quote again from the Fermanagh Mail and 
reporter ; " As we approached the landing, having 
sailed the entire length of the Lake, sOme twenty miles, 
two guns were fired, and the party disembarked at Castle- 
Caldwell, walking through the demesne to the railwa}^ 
station. Here Brother Calhoun, of Enniskillen, sang a 
few verses of a " Warrior Bold," and " Carlisle" of 
Alleghen}' Commandery, whom it appears they always 
hold back to the last, made a beautiful flowery speech, 
which brought forth tears from host and visitors. When 
we heard those remarks, delivered in his own inimitable 
style, it was then we wished the party w^ere only arriving 
instead of leaving." (The reader is asked to please par- 
don this little piece of Washington or Cocoanut or 
Lemon thrown in by ourselves, for the Mail did n't say 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 179 

anything of the kind.) " Here we took the special train 
of first-class carriages, which was courteousl}' sent by 
Mr. Henry Plews, in order that the American party 
might make up anj^ lost time, and the excu.rsionists took 
their seats, and amidst hearty farewells and waving of 
handkerchiefs, tiie train started for the junctio'n, the 
writer of this article having consented to a cordial invi- 
tation to accompany the party to Derry. 

The day spent at Enniskillen, so bright in its memory 
of things pleasant, will ever be to ns an oasis in the 
desert to the wearj^ and thirsty traveler — one full of 
delightful remembrances, happy thoughts and pleasant 
meetings. The warm shake of oar right hand will ever 
feel the tingle of fraternal greeting and brotherlj^ love 
as given us in the hearty grasp by our Enniskillen 
friends, and that day the happiest spent hy this Com- 
mandery on her second crusade. 

The Fermanagh Repoiier thus speaks of the ride to 
Derry. " What followed in one of the compartments of 
the down train it is outside my duty to chronicle. 
The inventive American genius had invented a special 
degree for the occasion, and in one of the compartments 
of our carriage sat the head of the Order of Submission, 
the Grrand Mogul. The reader may smile, but perhaps 
his face would have turned ashy pale if he had been 
summoned to the august presence. Some gentlemen 
held back, but the order could not be gainsayed. I was 
summoned, like the rest, but pleaded that a paper collar 
and paper cuffs were not fitting attire in which to enter 



I So Crusade to Europe 



his highness' presence, and the Grand Mogul's Emissary 
did not take time to examine into the truthfuhiess of my 
statement, but subsequently informed me that the Gr. M. 
had taken the facts into consideration, seeing that I was 
away from home and the washerwoman, and in the com- 
the company of ladies, and that he would postpone the 
conferring of the 100th degree upon me until I had fur- 
nished m}'^ wardrobe in Derry with such apparel as 
would bear tlie strain. " We will make it pleasant for 
you,'' said the valiant, submissive Knights near me ; but 
I escaped the pleasure, and thus my hair remained un- 
ruffled and my collar whole. 

Let it not be imagined for one moment the gentlemen 
had all the fun to themselves, for in the next compart- 
ment, we heard the cries of ladies as if in distress, and 
as looking out at tlie window, I espied two novices as if 
endeavoring to escape from some tormentor within. 
The}^ were undergoing initiation in some other degree 
confined to the gentler sex." 

'Twas here the Knights revolted against their head, 
for we all made one sudden break, and laying Grand 
Mogul Smith on the broad of his back, using his six-feet 
eleven for a seat or foot-stool, made Col. McConihe 
Regent ; but soon tiring of his outrageous sway of the 
sceptre and his villainous decisions, we deposed him as 
quickly and suddenly as we did Dr. Smith, and the Hon. 
Judge Moreland was unanimously — not elected, but 
" boosted" into his place. It was a fearful sight to see 
the Major sitting on top of a pile of bags, coats, hats, 



OF Allegheny Commanderv. 



newspapers, 'sandwiches, canes, dusters, &c., for a 
throne — collar "busted," necktie flapping in the wind, 
and face red with laughter. The Major may be very good 
at running a law office, or conducting a fine case in our 
Common Pleas or Criminal Courts, may cover himself 
all over with glory in his addresses to jury and judges, but 
he is a most complete failure in running a Knights of 
Submission shop. He occupied the chair for about ten 
seconds by the watch, and that was the winding up of 
his bobbin — he soon occupied the horizontal position as 
did our first-self elected G. M., when " Carlisle'' accepted 
the crown and sceptre and ruled with legal sway — for 
about tv/o minutes. 

A committee received our party at Londonderry on 
arrival there, but owing to our remaining so long at En- 
niskillen, we were compelled to forego the pleasure of a 
banquet and reception which our brethren of London- 
derry had prepared for us. It was ten o'clock at night 
when we reached Derrj'. 

The Reporter and Mail again says : " Breakfast at 
eight ; was the order that night ; it might not have been 
given but for sake of formality. At ten minutes past 
one the last geutlemau left the coffee-room, and at a 
quarter past four they were down stairs again. ' The}^ 
hardly ever sleep,' was observed to me concerning some 
gentlemen of the party. One thing was clear. They 
had come to Ireland for sight-seeing and determined to 
make the most of the time." 



1 82 Crusade to Europe 



In the morning the time-honored walls that witnessed 
the defeat of the Jacobites and the heroism of its brave 
defenders were traversed ; the Cathedral, with its bomb 
of 1690, its colors taken from the French, and its organ 
from the Spanish Armada, was visited ; also the Walker 
colnmn, the great enduring monument of a great leader. 

From the tower of the Cathedral could be traced the 
winding banks of the Foyle, and the spot observed 
where the boom was placed across the river, and which 
gave to the shock of the " Mountjoy," and the Heights 
of Clooney, where the army of King James lay en- 
camped ; and we saw " Roaring Meg," that often hurled 
defiance at the foe, and other guns of similar date. 

. Londonderry is situated on the magnificent river 
Foyle, just before it flows into the Lough of the same 
name, and which more than half surrounds the hill on 
which the city stands. 

An abbey for regular canons of the Augustine order 
was founded in Londonderry, in 546, by St. Columb- 
kille, which will give some idea as to the youthful age of 
the good old city of Derry. The town was fortified by 
walls, which are still preserved as a promenade, and 
there were six gates. 

The four original gates were called the Bishop's 
Gate, the Ship Quay Gate, the New Gate, and the Ferry 
Port Gate. Between 1805 and 1808 the three fii'st were 
built. The Bishop's Gate and Ship Quaj^'s Gate are 
are alone embellished. The former is a triumphal arch. 



(JF Allegheny Commandery. 183 

and was erected to the memory of William III, in 789, 
by the corporation, with the concurrence of the Irisli 
Society, at the centenary of the opening of the Grates. 

From the tower of the Cathedral, a plain gothic 
building, erected in 1633, may be had a magnificent view 
of the neighborhood which it commands, but the most 
interesting object in the town is the monument raised in 
1828, to the memory of the Rev. George Walker, which 
consists of a handsome doric column surmounted by a 
statue. 

From Gordon's History of Ireland, we find the follow- 
ing account of the siege of Derry, which may here prove 
an interesting item to those who have not read it, and 
will serve to freshen the memories of those who have. 
" A letter was dropped at Cumber, in the County Down, 
where the Earl of Mount Alexander resided, dated 
December 8, 1688, informing that nobleman that on 
Sunday, December 9th, of that year, the Irish through- 
out the whole island, in pursuance of an oath which they 
had taken, were to rise and massacre the Protestants, 
men, women and children ; and warning him to take 
particular care of himself, as a captain's commission 
would be the reward of the man who would murder him. 
The Protestants were terrified ; several of them assem- 
bled in groups about the streets. The apprentice boys, 
with a mob of the lower orders muttered something 
about closing the gates. They got some private 
encouragement to do so at first, but that was soon 
retracted and the minds of all the men fluctuated in a 



184 CrUSADK to EUROl'K 



miserable doubt of the most prudent course to take. 
Two companies of the Irish appeared on the opposite side 
of the stream and were ferried over to make proposals for 
entering the town, wliich was nearly betra3^ed into their 
hands by the treachery of the deputy maj'^or, who was 
inclined to favor James. The soldiers getting impatient 
for the return of their officers, crossed tlie river and 
were within three hundred j'-ards of the Ferry Gate. The 
young men of the city observing this, about eight or 
nine of them, whose names deserve to be preserved in 
letters of gold, viz : Henry Campsie, William Crook- 
shanks, Robert Sherrard, Alexander Irwin, James Stew- 
ard, Robert Morrison, Alexander Connigliam, Samuel 
Hunt, with James Spike, John Connigham, William 
Cams, Samuel Harvey, and some others who soon joined 
them, ran to the main guard, seized the keys after a 
slight opposition, came to the Perry Gate, drew up the 
bridge and locked the gate. Lord Antrim's soldiers had 
advanced within sixty yards of it. Tlie siege lasted one 
hundred and five da3^s, during which time the citizens 
were reduced to the direst extremities. Reduced to the 
^xtremit}' of distress, and endeavoring to support the 
remains of life bv such miserable food as the flesh of 
dogs and vermin, even tallow and hides, nor able to find 
more than two day's provision of such substance, the 
garrison was still assured b}'' the harangues of Walker, 
that God would relieve them ; and men reduced almost 
to shadows made desperate sallies, but v;^ere unable to 
pursue their advantage. The besiegers hnd thrown a 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 1S5 



boom across the river to prevent navigation, and -Kirk, 
the Orange admiral, had already been deterred by it 
from attempting the relief of the town. At length two 
provision ships and a frigate drew near to the city and 
one ship dashed with giant strength against the barrier 
and broke it in two, but, from the violence of the shock, 
rebounded and ran upon the river's bank. The satisfac- 
tion of the enemy was displayed by an instantaneous burst 
of tumultuous joy. They ran with disorder to the shore, 
prepared to board her, when the vessel firing a broadside 
was extricated by the shock, and floated out nobly into 
the deep again. It was calculated that twent3r-three 
hundred persons died of famine or b^' violence during 
the siege." 

About a mile from the cit}^ is the Magee Protestant 
College, a very handsome building which cost £20,000, 
left by Mrs. Magee, of Dublin, for the purpose of train- 
ing young men for the Presbyterian ministry in Ireland. 

Time was fleeting and at 10 A. M. we were read}^ for 
the road again. The railway company kindly placed at 
our disposal the large saloon carriage of the Lord- 
Lieutenant, with its glass sides and two mirrors. The 
ride along the coast was charming. On the one side lay 
well tilled fields and proud mountains, on the other the 
blue sea, wdiich burst on the shore in foaming waves. 
Ooleraine was reached, and to prevent the ordinary delay 
of three-?3[uarters of an hour, an engine was attached to 
our carriages and took us on " special " to Portrush, 
wlierc we put up at the fine hotel, the Antrim Arms, with 
our rooms fronting on the broad blue Atlantic. 



i86 Crusade to Europe 



Portrusli has a charming situation. " The Skerries " 
line of roclvs, at one time joined to tlie mainland, form a 
breakwater to ward off the force of the Atlantic waves 
that tumble on the shelving rock or shell-strewn strand. 
From the green in front of the hotel the line of coast is 
discernible as far as the Giant's Causeway', eight miles 
off, and coasting craft and huge Transatlantic steamers 
are ever to be seen gliding along the deep. Having 
dispatched lunch in American double-quick time, some 
vans and cars seated the party, and the procession was 
formed for the Giant's Causeway. 

On, then, along the winding road that takes you 
along the coast. The " Lion's Paw " and the " Giant's 
Head " arrest our attention, and as our driver points out 
the rock fashioned by the water so as to resemble tlie 
human countenance, he rerhinds us of Lot's wife. The 
The Castle of Dunluce, grand in its silent solitariness 
and awe-inspiring, historical memories, invites ns from 
the highway, though a few decline to cross the narrow 
causeway that at one time was a great defense to this 
formidable stronghold. The date and founder are 
nnknown, but we told of the M'Quillans who owned it 
in 1.580, from whom it passed to the M'Donnells of the 
the Isles — the ancestors of the Antrim family — in whose 
possession it still continues. 

We run through the village of Bushmills, arrive at 
the Causeway Hotel, and are forthwith besieged witli 
boatmen desirous of convejdng us by water to the Cause- 
way ; but we defer the use of boats till our return 
journey, and wrongly, as we subsequently ascertain. 



OF Allegheny Commander y. 187 

The guides of the Causeway connect everything 
notable about it witli the Irish giant, Fin McCoul, and it 
is not many years since an enterprising Yankee pretended 
to find to find the body of the giant, and exhibited a 
stone man tliirteen feet long to people credulous enough 
to believe the " find " was genuine. We are pointed out 
" The Little Causeway " and " The Middle Causeway." 
We get to "Lord Antrim's Parlor" where names and 
dates are inscribed, the oldest date being ITIT, and take 
a drink out of the " Giant's Well." Then we are ushered 
to the " Wishing Chair," and each one of the party, 
young and old, quietly sits on the single pillar, so 
depressed below the other as to form a comfortable scat, 
and wish. But the injunction is given that to reveal the 
wish is to vitiate the mystic power Avhich grants it, and 
so we hold our peace on that subject. We linger round 
the Honeycombs, and the Great Causewa}', at times 
quizzing the guide about the meaning of the terrible 
words he has used descriptive of the stones. Pentagon, 
hexagon, octagon, flow freely from his lips, with a display 
of learning wondrous to unlearned ears, and we ask him 
again and again to point out those pillars which are 
" fiveagon " and " eightagon " till he suspects our chaff 
and becomes wary. Very few of the pillars of the 
' Causeway are nearly square ; one pillar is seven-sided. 
There are several octagon, and three stones have been 
discovered with nine sides. It is computed that there 
are about 40,000 pillars comprising the Causeway. 
They sink to an unknown depth, and if a pillar have a 
split, that split runs down as far as has ever been discov- 



i88 Crusade to Europe 



ered. The tall pillars of the " Griant's Loom" are thirt}^- 
three feet high. The " Giant's Organ "'bears a wonder- 
ful resemblance to that instrument. " The Chimney," as 
some stones are so called, deceived some vessels of the 
Spanish Armada into the belief that the}' were part of 
Dunluce Castle, and received a cannonading in conse- 
quence. But the guide tells you one of the vessels was 
wrecked, which gives the name to " Port-na-Spania." 
Boats take our party to Portcoon and Dunkerrj'- caves, 
and we are well rewarded for our venture. 

Having received a tongue thrashing from a female 
for not emplo3dng her boats at the time she chose, and 
because they were hers, with an injunction to the driver 
to mark all those specially out who did not put their 
money in her pocket, he promising faithfully to tell Mr. 
Linden, we started in fear and dread of the consequences 
till the "go " of the horses and bracing breezes revived 
us. We discovered we Avere in a free country, and that 
" women's rights " were not paramount, and that neither 
the lady in question nor that worthy gentleman whose 
name she took in vain had any claim on our bodies or 
purses. We escaped being locked up for the night in a 
police cell, and that night fervently prayed for a quieter 
tongue and a patient husband for that woman. But let 
us not too hastil}^ over the points we are visiting, for 
they are well worthj^ of note. The White Rocks on the 
way to Dunluce, are among the most interesting objects 
on this extraordinary coast. It is said that within a 
distance of two miles and a half there are not fewer 
than twenty-seven caverns, all natural excavations, worn 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 



by the action of the waves on the white limestone of 
which they are composed, into tlie most fantastic shapes. 
Dunluce Gastle, of wliich we have a moment since 
si^oken, has a fame almost as wide as the Giant's Cause- 
way itself. The Castle stands about one hundred feet 
above the sea, on a perpendicular and insulated rock, the 
entire surface of which is so completely occupied by the 
edifice that the external walls are in continuation with 
the perpendicular sides of the rock. The rock, though 
insulated, is not completely water bound, being united to 
the mainland, at the bottom of a deep chasm, by a single 
wall not more than eighteen inches broad. Owing to the 
perpendicular nature of the rock it must have been . 
impossible to take the Castle, or to enter it all, except 
by the bridge across the yawning chasm. In the 
autumn of 1814, a visit was made to the ruins of Dun- 
luce, by Sir Walter Scott, who observed a great resem- 
blance in to Dunottar Castle, in Kincardineshire, a 
detailed description of which is given in the great poet 
and author's diary. 

The Griant's Causeway was first called to public 
attention about 1693, since which time it has been 
visited by thousands upon thousands of tourists, and 
many scientific men. It is a wonderful formation of 
perpendicular stones, fitting so close together as to 
exclude, in some places, even a sheet of paper. Nor 
are the pillars continuous, but composed of several 
pieces fitted together by convex and concave surfaces. 
It is said there is but one triangular pillar throughout 
the whole extent of the three Causeways. These col- 



igo Crusade to Europe 

umns are composed chemically of about one-half flinty 
earth, one-quarter iron, and one-quarter clay and lime. 
Kohl's remarks on the Causeway ai'e worthy of being 
given. He sa3^s : "With all the explanations that can 
be oflered, however, so much is left unexplained that 
they answer very little purpose. On a close investiga- 
tion of these wonderful formations, so many questions 
arise, that one scarcely ventures to utter them. With 
inquiries of this nature, perhaps not the least gain is 
the knowledge of liow much lies beyond the limits of 
our inquiries, and how many things that lie so plainly 
before our eyes which we can see and handle, may yet 
be wrapped in unfathomable mystery. We see in the 
Giant's Causeway the most certain and obvious effects 
produced by the operation of active and powerful 
forces which entirely escape our scrutiny. We walk 
over the heads of some forty thousand columns, (for 
this number has been counted by some curious and 
leisurely persons,) all beautifully cut and polished, 
formed of such neat pieces, so exactly fitted to each 
oilier, and so cleverly supported, that we might fanc}^ 
we had before us the work of ingenious human artifi- 
cials ; and j^et what we behold is the result of the 
immutable laws of nature, acting without any apparent 
object, and by a process which must remain a myster}'^ 
forever to our understanding. Even the simplest in- 
quiries, it is often impossible to answer ; such, for 
instance, as how far these colonnades run out beneath 
the sea, and how far into the land, which throws over 
them a veil as impenetrable as that of ocean." 



OF Allegheny Commanueky. ,191 



Of course there are all kinds of traditions in con- 
nection with the Causeways, one being that " the giant, 
Fin McCoul, was the Champion of Ireland, and felt 
verj^ much aggrieved at the insolent boasting of a cer- 
tain Caledonian giant, who offered to whip every one 
who came before him, and even dared to tell Fin that 
if it were not for tlie wetting of himself, he would 
swim over and give him a good drubbing. Fin at 
last applied to the King, who, perhaps not daring to 
question the doings of such a weighty man, gave him 
leave to construct a causeway right to Scotland, on 
which the Scot walked over and fought the Irishman. 
Fin turned out victor, and with an amount of gen- 
erosit}^ becoming his Hibernian descent, kindly allowed 
his rival to marry and settle in Ireland, which the 
Scot was not loath to do, seeing at that time 'living 
in Scotland at that time was not the best, ;ind every 
body knows that Ireland was always the richest country 
in the world. Since the death of the giants, the Cause- 
ways, being no longer wanted, has sank under tlie sea, 
onl3- leaving a portion of itself visible here, a little at 
the island of RathUn, and the portals at the grand 
gate on Staffa. 

The Pleaskin is the finest of all the Causeway, and of 
this Kohl writes thus : " The natural basaltic rock here 
ies immediately under the surface. About twelve feet 
from the summit the rock begins to assume a collumnar 
tendency, and is formed into ranges of rudely collumnar 
basalt, in a vertical position, exhibiting the appearance 
of a grand galler^^ whose columns measure sixty feet in 



192 Crusade to Europe 



height. This basaltic colonnade rests upon a bed of 
coarse, black, irregular rock, sixty feet thick, abounding 
in air holes. Below this stratum is a second range of 
pillars forty -five feet high, more accurately columnar and 
nearly as accurately formed as the Causeway itself. 
The cliff appears as though it had been painted for effect 
in various shades of green, vermilion rock, red ochre, 
grey lichens, &c., its general form so beautiful, its 
storeyed pillars, tier after tier, so architecturally grace- 
ful, its curious and varied stratifications supporting the 
columnar ranges ; here the dark brown amorphous basalt, 
there the red ochre — and below that again the slender 
but distinct lines of wood coal — all the edges of its diff- 
erent stratifications tastefully varied, by the hand ot 
vegetable nature, with grasses, ferns and rock plants. 
In the various strata of which it is composed, sub- 
limity and beauty have been blended together in the 
most extraordinary manner." 

A few of the names given to some of the rocks, which 
resemble those after which they are called, may serve as 
a means to give the reader an idea of the curious and 
wonderful geological formations abounding in the Cause- 
ways, viz : The Horse Shoe Harbor, the Lion's Head, 
The Tunis, the Giant's Pulpit, the Giant's Granny, the 
Priest, the Stack, the Giant's Chimney, the Giant's Or- 
gan, the Hen and Cliickens, the Nursing Cliild, the King 
and his Nobles, the Highlandman's Bonnet, &c., &c. 

As we stood in the Causeway we saw the magnificent 
Anchor Line Steamer, " Circassia" pass by so gracefully 
and beautifully on her voyage to New York. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. - 193 

A GOOD IDEA. 

As we wandered over the rocks in the Causeway, we 
heard a very good suggestion made by a member of our 
party wlio supplies the first families of Allegheny and 
Pittsburgh with juicy tenderloins, and is thoroughly 
posted on "fine cuts," &c., none other than our jolly 
good friend, Fred Beilstein. 

We noticed Fred gazing abstractedly at the wonder- 
fully formed rocks, saying nothing, but evidently turning 
some mighty question over in his mind. He had not 
made a remark for quite a while, when suddenly turning 
to some of us, he remarked : " Do you know boys, I 
have a mighty good notion to take-over two or three of 
these pillars and have them cut down to proper lengths, 
to place in front of my meat stand, for the accommoda- 
tion of my customers, and would nH that draw ? 

This put us in mind of one on the same gentleman, 
which it may not be out of place to relate here. 

When the party was in the King's Palace, in Amster- 
dam, in which is a magnificent and very large carved 
marble vase, which, perhaps, no money could buy, and 
around this the pilgrims were gathered, and exclama- 
tions of delight and admiration were being poured 
forth most extravagantly, and none were louder in their 
praise of this beautiful piece of art than our good friend 
Fred. Stepping up to Prof. Slack, who was standing- 
near by, he quietly tapped him on the shoulder and said, 
" Is n't that an elegant piece of work, Mr. Slack ?"■ 

M 



194 Crusade to Europe 



" Oh ! my, is n't it grand ?" " Do you know what I was 
thinking, Mr. Slack?" "No, Fred, I do not, what was 
it?" "Well," says Fred, "I was just thinking if I 
only had that vase at mj stall to keep corned beef in, 
would n't it make the other butchers sick ? 

Next morning our saloon-carriage was again in wait- 
ing, and we started for Belfast. The swelling hills and 
fertile valle3-s of Antrim — green with unripe corn and 
rye and barle}^, and yellow with newly-cut hay. — could 
not escape the e^'e of the. traveler, nor the white cottages 
embosomed amid flowers, nor the dark green hedge 
rows, nor the neatly kept railway stations through which 
we passed. 

From Carrickfergus Junction we looked on the blue 
waters of Belfast Lough, dotted with man}'- a sail, 
and the capital of Ulster at the extremit^^ where the 
Lagan joins the salt sea. The terminus is reached, and 
and carriages and cars convey us to the Queen's Hotel. 

Arriving in Belfast we took a Turkish bath-house by 
storm, and, enjojdng the luxurj^ of a bath therein, we 
returned to our hotel for dinner, and at 6:30 we went 
down to the wharf and saw our fraters of Marj^ Com- 
mander}", No. 36, of Philadelphia, who were making 
their ^^ First European Pilgrimage^''^ and were to leave 
at 8 P. M. for Glasgow. We spent an hour pleasantl}' 
with them, and, bidding them good-bj^, we took a stroll 
through the principal streets, and must confess that Bel- 
fast was the first city in Ireland we had visited giving 



OF Allegheny Commander y. 195 

aii}^ appeavance of enterprise, business activit}' and life. 
Tlie shops, as the}^ are pleased to call their stores thei"e, 
had an inviting, business-like appearance, people moving 
more rapidly and actively as though they were doing- 
something to give them the wherewithal that they might 
live, move and haA^e their being. 

As the " Quartette" were moving along the street, 
the noble heart of the Doctor was suddenly enlarged, for 
to our amazement he invited us into a " green-grocer's" 
to " take something" with him, so he invested half a 
crown (Q2^ cents) in five peaches, eating three himself, 
dividing the remaining two among the Colonel, Major 
and '• Carlisle," and those two were bad, of course, for 
they were bought with the money alluded to in our 
letter from Killarney to Dublin, and no good ever came 
from those who do not do right. Moral — " never buy 
peaches in a foreign country with money bagged as that 
was ? " 

As it was Saturdajr evening, and nothing much could 
be done on that evening, the committee appointed on 
Lough Erne, to draft resolutions expressive of the 
appreciation of the kindness of our Enniskillen friends 
and Brother R. W. Armstrong, met and prepared the 
following, which were unanimously^ adopted by the Com- 
mander}^, and handsomely engrossed and forwarded 
respectively to those for whom they were intended : 

^^Whereas, On our pilgrimage to Europe it was our 
extreme good fortune to travel by the way of Enniskillen, 
where we were met and most elegantly and courteously 



196 Crusade to Europe 



received and entertained by the Masons of Bnniskillen 
and the surrounding country. And whereas, this courtesy 
was as spontaneous and magnificent as it was unex- 
pected, and came to us in such a manner as to arouse 
our warmest feelings of gratitude to the brethren who 
originated it and executed it, and is an incident in our 
trip as fragrant and beautiful as the bouquets with which 
they decked us, and will be as lasting in our memory as 
recollection and gratitude exist, and will be treasured as 
an offering to that noble fraternity of which they and we 
form a part, and whose ' universal chain ' binds together 
men of all climes, nation and professions, and as an 
humble recognition of the kindness and hospitality 
thus shown to us, it is resolved — 

" 1st. That we hereby tender to Bro. 0. Ternan and 
the brethren of Bnniskillen our thanks for the marked 
kindness shown by them to us in the royal reception 
extended, and in the most courteous and hospitable 
entertainment provided." 

" 2d. That in the action of our Enniskillen breth- 
ren we recognize that the stranger sinks into the brother, 
that distance strengthens rather than weakens the ' mys- 
tic tie,' that nationalities become a brotherhood, and that 
in the mellowing influence of our order men of all 
sections and places ' meet upon the level,' and become 
one in feeling and sentiment, as they are one in a com- 
mon purpose, understanding, and duty." 



OF Allegheny Commandery. ' 197 

" 3cl. That the bright jewels accompanying the 
brethren, and forming a conspicuous part in the enter- 
tainment, have our warmest thanks for their presence 
and aid ; and that to these ladies we are deeply indebted 
for much of the pleasure and profit derived by us. May 
they ever be recognized and honored by our fraternity, 
as forming the chief corner stone upon which must rest 
all that is noble, pure, and good. May they ever be 
made welcome in our journeys, and honored in all our 
councils. To fchem we extend the right hand of fellow- 
ship, and invoke the benediction of Almighty God upon 
them and theirs." 

" 4tli. That we assure any and all our friends a 
warm and hearty welcome to our homes and hearts, and 
cordially invite them to come with us that we may show 
them how deeply we feel indebted, and with what willing 
hands we will seek to pay this debt. ' The Emerald 
Isle and the gem of the ocean ' will mingle and har- 
monize, and the brethren shall know that the west has 
room for them, and to which they shall be made ' as 
welcome as the flowers of May.' " 

And to Brother R. W. Armstrong the following was 
prepared, engrossed and forwarded : 

"Among the many pleasant incidents occurring to us 
on our pilgrimage none is brighter than the unexpected 
and unselfish action of our friend and brother, Robert 
W. Armstrong, of Belleek, in the County Fermanagh. 



igJi Crusade to Europe 



Visiting bis neigliborhood as strangers, and having no 
claims upon liis time or kindness, we were, nevertheless 
made his debtor to such a degree that we feel that we 
can never fully repay the debt. His finished and exqui- 
site memento, wrought out through patient toil, and 
with marked originality and skill, will be kept and 
treasured by us so long as we keep life, and whenever 
seen and whithersoever we go, it shall remind us that a 
brother's hand made it, and a brother's heart suggested 
it. All that can be said by us is, that he lives in his act 
and has sent his name and fraternal feeling into homes 
and families which, though divided from him by an ocean 
are linked to him by an indissoluble tie, and will receive 
him at their fireside with all the warmth which gratitude 
and love can prompt. And as he travels on through 
life, cheering the hearts of others by his benefactions, 
and lightening the labor and struggle of life by his 
kindness, may his pathway grow brighter and brighter 
until it shall melt away into that supreme light and 
life which is the reward, as it is the home, of the just 
and the good. And may he and his be blessed even 
with the blessing of the promises. May this simple 
tribute of thanks, given from Allegheny Commandery, 
No. 35, of Allegheny City, Pennsjdvania, be accepted 
by him in that spirit which prompts its offering, and 
be one flower in that chaplet which nothing but love 
can weave." 

Retiring early to catch up our lost sleep, the fol- 
lowing day (Sunday) found the " Quartette " all in their 



OF Allegheny Commandery. ' 199 



own room, hard at work writing, for here we had the 
pleasure of receiving our first letters from home, and 
we never saw a man work harder in our lives than the 
Colonel. He first sorted out all our " soiled linen," 
and piled it up in the centre of the room, taking an 
inventory of the same ; then into his trunk he went, 
bringing out a box of elegant note paper — various 
flowers beautifully painted by hand on each sheet — with 
envelopes to match, and seating himself at the table, 
he spent the day with " pen in hand," and as the Col- 
onel hailed -from Salt Lake City, he had quite a novel 
way of doiug his letter writing. He would compose a 
beautifully worded letter addressed to " My Dear Wi- 
nona." When finished, all he had to do was to copy 
the same a, dozen times or so, merely changing the 
address as many times to " My Dear Lurline," " My 
Dearest Adele," " My Sweet Evelina," " My Loving 
Amanda," " My Tender Susan," "My Own Margaret," 
etc. I know at any rate that " Carlisle," as banker, 
had a bill against tlie Colonel, for postage in Belfast, 
about two shillings and sixpence. 

While engaged in writing thusly, rather an amusing- 
thing occurred. We would hear a bell down stairs 
in the office ring, and the attendant call up to the 
servant, "No. 19!" and "One bottle of beer to N'o. 
19 ! " It went on thusly for a couple of hours, about 
every fifteen minutes, " One beer to No. 19 ! " being 
called. At first no attention was paid to the matter, 
but finding it so interrupted the Colonel that he was 



Crusade to Europe 



addressing one of liis telling epistles as " My Dear 
Number Nineteen," we could n't stand having the Col- 
onel interrupted in this manner, and going down to the 
office, we found it was none of our party were in No. 
19, so we begged that the hotel proprietor remove the 
bar up to 19, or have 19 removed down to the bung-hole. 
Now, it appears there was a social party of four on tlie 
floor above room 19, and they had ordered up "four 
beers," and the girl carrjdng it up had occasion to set the 
" four beers " down opposite No. I9's door while she went 
into an adjoining room to attend to some duty there. The 
occupant of 19 evidently scented beer in the air, and 
slipping out gobbled the social party's "four beers." It 
was truly a funny sight to see the girl looking round for 
the four bottles labeled " Bass' Pale Ale," and stepping 
into 19 and looking out into the yard see the four inno- 
cent bottles standing upright on the ground beneath the 
window! In the evening we took a jaunting car for a 
drive, to air the fevered brow of the Colonel, after his 
arduous labors of the day. 

Belfast is a progressive citj', and the onlj' progressive 
city in fact in Ireland, while she is the linen market of 
the world. In the course of fifty years the population 
has increased fivefold. In 1821, the inhabitants numbered 
only 31,000, in 1851 they increased to 100,301, and in 
ISn to 1U,394. . 

The cit}' stands upon the propert}^ of the Marquis of 
Donegal, and it is said that but for long leases granted 
b}^ the former proprietor, the income of that nobleman 



OF ALLEGHENY COMMANDERY. 



from the town alone would amount to £300,000. The 
cit}^ is situated on the river Lagan and on Belfast Lough 
and is distant from Glasgow only one hundred and 
thirty miles, and from Liverpool, one hundred and fifty- 
six. It has one of the best harbors in the United 
Kingdom, though the river Lagan was formerly but a 
creek. It was here the far-famed White Star Steam- 
ships, the largest that cross the Atlantic, were built and 
launched. The estimated shipping tonnage is 1,500,000 
tons, the recent improvements costing £250,000, or a 
million and a quarter in American money. 

The buildings in Belfast are good, and the town in a 
a business manner has the appearance of Manchester or 
Glasgow, and many of the streets are regular and wide, 
particularly around the exterior of the town. It cannot, 
however, claim the same age and antiquity of Dublin, 
being unknown prior to the twelfth century. Edward 
Bruce on his way south on his raid of robbery and 
plunder, completely sacked the city ; and very shortl3^ 
after the death of Bruce, the Earl of Ulster was mui'dered 
by some of his own family, and the Irish once more 
held out against the English aggression, rebuilt the 
Castle of Belfast, and held it for two centuries. 

In 1612, Belfast was presented to Sir A. Chichester, 
the ancestor of the present Marquis of Donegal. 

Perhaps the most remarkable fact in the industrial 
liistor}^ of Belfast, is, that no printing press was ever 
brought into the city before the year 1696, yet Belfast 



Crusade to Europe 



was the town where the first Bible ever printed in Ire- 
land was pnblished in the year 1794, and where the 
oldest Irish periodical, the " Weekly' Magazine," was 
originally published. They now have some eight daily 
and weekly papers. 

The most important features of interest in this 
enterprising city are the Commercial Buildings, built in 
1820, and cost £20,000. The Presbyterian Church in 
Rosemary street, the handsomest structure of that 
denomination in Belfast, and cost £10,000. This leads us 
to the division of religious sects here ; there are twenty- 
eight congregations of Presbyterians, eighteen of Episco- 
palians, five of Catholics, and three of Unitarians. In 
18tl, the Protestant population was 118,868, while the 
Catholics numbered only 55,052, and of the former 60,811 
were Presbyterians. 

Then there is the Provincial Bank, built of white 
Cookstown stone and cost £18,000. The Ulster Bank is 
one of the finest and handsomest buildings in the city ; 
built of polished red sandstone, and which has a capital 
of £1,000,000. 

The new Custom House is the largest building in 
Belfast, constructed of the finest Grlasgow stone and 
aff"ording ample room for the custom house, post office, 
inland revenue office, stamp office, and an office for the 
Board of Local Marine. Then there are the xVorthern 
Bank, the Artillery and Infantry Barracks, Trinity 
Church, Court House, Royal Academical Institution, 
and Government School of Art, St. Malaehy's Roman 



OF Allegheny Commandery. ' 203 



Catholic Chapel, the Music Hall, the Queen's College, 
Presbyterian College, Methodist College, the Hospital 
for the Deaf, Dumb and Blind, and the Museum, all 
buildings and places handsome in their architectural 
design, and worthy of a visit by the tourist. Then we 
come to the life and support of the city of Belfast, 
namely, her linen manufactures. We visited the York 
Street Spinning Company, and that some idea may be 
had as to the enormity of this trade, we will give a fact 
or two in connection with figures, which may appear 
astonishing to purchasers of table linen, towels, napkins, 
etc. For instance, the York Street Spinning Company, 
formerly the firm of Mulhollands, employs nearly three 
thousand hands, and has generally £100,000, or $500,000 
worth of flax in course of manipulation. 

In Ireland we find the first spinning factory was 
established in 1806, and consisted of two hundred and 
twelve spindles, adapted for canvas yarns. The linen 
board, by a bounty of thirty shillings per spindle, 
succeeded in causing the establishment of others, which 
in 1809 contained 6,369 spindles. In 1815 there were in 
Ulster five mills, the largest having 1204, and the 
smallest 300 spindles ; in Leinster two mills, and in 
Munster, seven, only one of which was in operation 
owing to the depression of trade at that period. In 1811 
there were forty-one mills, containing 280,000 spindles, 
and in 1852 the number had increased to seventy-three 
mills, and 389,000 spindles, and two years later there 
were eighty-one mills, and 500,000 spindles in operation. 



204 Crusade to Europe 



representing a capital of some three to four million 
pounds sterling, or fifteen to twenty million dollars ; the 
number of factories now being about one hundred and 
sixty, and giving employment to upwards of sixty thou- 
sand persons. 

The quantity of flax grown in Ireland has been 
generally on the increase. In 1847 there were 58,132 
acres sown, each acre 3delding about five hundred weight 
of scutched fibre, altogether worth about £656,100, while 
in 1870, the estimated value of the crop was nearly two 
million pounds sterling. The product of one acre of 
ground under fiax, requires a day's labor of sixty-four 
females, and fifty-three males, or one hundred seventeen 
persons in all, from the. time it is pulled to the time that 
it goes to the mill. 

The Linen Hall was erected in 1715, at a cost of 
£10,000. The linen trade being almost exclusively con- 
fined to Ulster, it was found inconvenient to have the 
business conducted by agents in Dublin, in consequence 
of which was instituted the Linen Hall. In MacCul- 
lough's Dictionary of Commerce, we find that "in 1698, 
both houses of English Parliament addressed His 
Majesty William III., representing that the progress of 
the woolen manufacture of Ireland was such as to prej- 
udice the trade of this country (England,) and that it 
would be for the public advantage were the former 
discouraged, and the linen manufacture established 
instead ; " and King William adopted one of the most 
illiberal pieces of policy ever practiced b}^ England to 



OF Allegheny Commandery. • 205 

Ireland, when he said, " I shall do all that in me lies to 
discourage the "woolen manufacture in Ireland, and to 
encourage the linen manufacture, and to promote the 
trade of England," and strange to say that was what 
gave the first decided impulse to the linen trade. , 

We also visited the Greenmount Spinning Company, 
but our friend, Mr. Houston, being absent in Paris, we 
were most agreeably entertained by Mr. Montg-omery of 
that company, with whom we dined, and a good prepara- 
tion made for the custom house officers of New York by 
the manner in which the trio of the " Quartette " dived 
into table cloths, napkins, handkerchiefs, etc. 

We were also shown thx'ough Marcus Ward & Go's 
famous printing and lithographing establishment, the 
largest of the kind in the world. 

Returning to hotel after our day's work, we had a 
good dinner, which they know how to set up at the 
" Queen's," and that being finished, the ladies of our 
party presented to Mr and Mrs. Cooper a handsome pair 
of silver napkin rings, and the Commandery passed a 
resolution to Mr. Cooper for his every attention, polite- 
ness and kindness. His prompt attention to all our 
comforts, the care taken for us all, his own genial 
manners and exertions, gave Mr. Cooper a warm place 
in our affections, and to him we owe very much for oiir 
agreeable recollections of Ireland. Not an accident 
occurred under his care, not a piece of baggage went 
missing, not a train was lost, but everything under his 
direction and pleasant way of going about it, moved so 



2o5 Crusade to Europe 



harmoniously and smootlil}^ that everything added to our 
enjoyment, having nothing that couki in any way 
detract or mar our pleasure. In whatever station Mr. 
Cooper may be placed, we wish him unbounded success, 
and we trust to see hira in our country and cit}^, when 
we will endeavor " to do unto him as he did unto us." 

Bidding them " Good bye " at 9 P. M. that Monday 
evening, we stepped aboard the boat and were soon put- 
ting down the Lagan into Belfast Lough on our way to 
Glasgow. 




OF Allegheny Commanderv. 



207 



6ie'ite'i^ Mo. 6. 

Up the River Clyde — In and Around Glasgow. — The 
Grand Reception by St. Mungo Encampment and 
others. — Purchase of a Clothing House. — Trouble 
with Gents' Furnishing Goods. — A day Spent with 
Friends. — Separation of "Carlisle" from the Re- 
mainder of the "Quartette." — Arrival in Edin- 
burgh. — Incidents by the Way. 

^JS" the following morning might have been seen on 
the deck of the " Petrel," the noble and ever faith- 
ful little band, the " Quartette," up and with eager 
eyes, taking in the far famed scenery, of what we are 
pleased to call our old home river — the beautiful Clj^de — 
and singular as it may seem, and perhaps hardl}^ credita- 
ble, it was actually raining — well, not exactly raining, 
but just a good healthy Scotch mist, as manj^ are well 
aware, it seldom rains in Scotland, which recalls to our 
mind a little incident in the Rev. Dr. Plumer's tour in 
Europe a year or so ago. 

He had just landed from the steamer at Greenock, 
and was seated in the railway carriage, and though a day 
in Majr, he with his fi'iends Avere clad in their heav3^ win- 
ter under clothing, heavy sviits, overcoats, and the Doctor 
had even a shawl about him in addition to all these, 
when along came a Scotchman employed about the 



2o8 Crusade to Europe 



depot, in his shirt sleeves, and stopped in front of the 
Doctor's compartment. Presently another canny, warm 
blooded Scot approached and greeting his friend with, 
" Griiid morning, Geordie, hoo' are ye the day, man?" 
to whicli he received the reply, " oh ! I'm fine, Jock, 
thank ye for speirin', but its nnco warm the day, man !" 
It is scarcely necessary to say that this made the Doctor 
shiver harder than ever, and express the wonder what a 
real cold day was like in Scotland. 

We were just approaching " Ailsa Craig," a huge 
rocky island, which rises abruptly from the sea, is 1,103 
feet in height, about two miles in circumference at its 
base, and its nearest distance to land about ten miles. 
There is an old ruin of a tower on its summit, and this 
queer rock is inhabited by millions and millions of birds, 
and is utterly devoid of life of any other kind. 

Passing Rothesay, a beautiful little town in the 
county of Bute, a great resort for invalids and pleasure 
seekers, owing to its mild and genial climate, we enter 
the Clyde — and this is certainly an incomparable sail — 
with features clear and distinct from the beauties of our 
great American river, the Hudson, or the beautiful 
Rhine of Germany. 

Away on our right are the hills of Ayrshire, while on 
our left are the pretty little towns dotting the banks at 
frequent intervals, while Scotland's noble mountains 
form a grand baekgroond to the pretty picture in the 
fore. We pass the delightful villas of Dunoon and 



OF Allegheny Commandery. ■ . 209 



Inellan, and a little further on the river expands at 
Helensburg, making an admirable anchorage for sea ves- 
sels, and here at what is called the " tail of the Bank," are 
loaded all the sea-going vessels, as above this point, 
owing to the most unfortunate narrowing of the river, 
it is impossible to bring down from Glasgow a heavily 
laden sailing or steamship. 

On our right is Gonrock, which is three miles distant 
from Greenock, but may be considered simply a contin- 
uation of the latter place, and presents a splendid ap- 
pearance from the passing steamer, the town being made 
up of fine stone residences and handsome mansions. 
Between Gonrock and Greenock stands Fort Matilda Bat- 
tery. 

Shortly we call at Greenock, at which point we enter 
the narrow stream, which water-course, troublesome as it 
is, prevents Glasgow from being the greatest city in the 
world, had it the harbor and access to a harbor as have 
Liverpool and New York. 

The situation of Greenock is a beautiful one, and 
most convenient for commercial interests, the principal 
trade being sugar refining and ship building. Close 
upon the fine quay stands the custom house, a very com- 
modious building. In the burying ground of the old 
West Kirk of Greenock, Burns' Highland Mary is in- 
terred. Steaming away from this busy town we pass 
Port Glasgow and the ship building yards, but we were 
disappointed at not seeing all the stocks full of the 
newly laid keels and skeletons of vessels, and at not 

N 



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hearing the same pounding noises and clitter-clattering 
of hammers as they rounded the heads of rivets and 
bolts which were being driven tlirough the plates and 
stancheons of iron, as we saw and heard but a few summers 
before. Here we met the good old steamship " Cali- 
fornia" coming down in charge of two tugs on her way 
out to sea, and we sighed a deep long sigh for the days 
gone by as we looked on the noble boat gracefully turn- 
ing the windings of the stream, for man}^ a good day 
and hour we had spent in her commodious rooms and on 
her spacious decks. 

We soon come to Dumbarton rock on which stands 
Dumbarton Castle, two objects as inseparable with 
Scottish history as would be Scotland itself. This 
curious rock, or rather high bluff, rising precipitouslj^ 
from level ground as does " Ailsa Craig" from the sea, 
is a mile in circumference, and rises to a height of two 
hundred and forty feet terminating in two peaks, the 
highest of wliich is called " Wallace's seat," and one 
part of the Castle bears the name of '' Wallace's tower," 
for it was here the Scottish hero was once confined. 
The ascent to the Castle is by a narrow steep stair, built 
in a natural fissure of the rock. In the Castle is the 
armory, in which are exhibited a poor collection of 
weapons, said to have been found on the battle field of 
Bannockburn, but tlie Secretary of War of the King- 
dom has ordered that the two-handed sword shown 
here as " Wallace's Sword," shall be no longer exhibited 
as such, as it has been ascertained that it is of the period 
of Edward lY., and consequently could never have be- 
longed to Wallace. 



OF Allegheny Commanuery. 



In the time of the wars, which abounded in Scotland 
plentifully in Queen Mary's time, this Castle was taken 
by an ingenious strategem by Captain Crawford of 
Jordan hill, as is given in the history of Scotland by 
George Buchanan. "Taking advantage of a misty and 
moonless night to bring to the foot of the Castle rock 
the scaling ladders which he had provided, he chose 
for his terrible experiment the place where the rock was 
highest, and where, of course, less pains were taken to 
a regular guard. This choice was fortunate, for the first 
ladder broke with the weight of the men who mounted 
it, and the noise of the fall must have betrayed them had 
there been any sentinel around or within hearing. 
Crawford, assisted by a soldier who had deserted from 
the Castle, and was acting as his guide, renewed the 
attempt in persoj], and having scrambled up to a project- 
ing ledge of rock, where there was some footing, con- 
tinued to make fast the ladder by tying it to the roots 
of a tree which grew about midwa}^ up the rock. Here 
they found a small flat surface, sufficient, however, to 
afford footing for the whole party, which was, of course, 
very few in number. In scaling the second precipice, 
another accident took place ; one of the party subject 
to epileptic fits, was seized with one of these attacks, 
brought on perhaps by terror. * * * His illness 
made it impossible for him either to ascend or descend. 
To have slain the man would have been a cruel expedi- 
ent, besides that the fall of his body from the ladder 
might have alarmed the garrison. Crawford caused him, 
therefore, to be tied to the ladder, and thus mounted 



Crusade to Europe 



with ease over the body of the epileptic person. When 
the party gained tlie summit they slew the sentinel ere 
he had time to give the alarm, and easily surprised the 
slumbering garrison who had trusted too much to the 
vigilance of the sentinel to keep good watch/' There is 
still in the archives of the Duke of Montrose, a juvenile 
letter of James VI. written in his ninth year, addressed 
to Captain Crawford, who performed this service. 

The town of Dumbarton lies directly at the base of 
Dumbarton Rock, and is now a very important seat of 
industry, containing some 11,500 inhabitants, has large 
shipbuilding works and employing thousands of men in 
this enterprise of fitting-up and building sea craft, in 
which the Clyde is celebrated, as in every water on earth 
almost floats the handiwork of ship-builders of the 
Clyde. A little further on we come to Dungias Point, 
and here has been erected an appropriate monument to 
Henry Bell, who first introduced steam navigation on 
the Clyde. We are now in the midst of busy shipping 
interests, huge sailing vessels, immense steamers are 
loading and unloading valuable cargoes consigned to and 
from all quarters of the globe ; the river has nai-rowed 
down almost to a good sized American creek, until the 
numerous water craft, we would almost think, would be 
entangled in an inextricable confusion. We meet the fine 
river steamers loaded down with passengers on their 
way to the coast, to spend tlie day, the week or the 
summer; all around are signs of life and prosperity, 
while the noise of the hammers of hundreds of men beat 



OF Allegheny Commandeky. 



and pound the driving rivet ; and liere we sight the bus}^ 
city of Glasgow, her tall stacks pouring forth their black 
smoke, making us feel we were rather approaching home 
than otherwise, so far as soot, dirt and smoke are con- 
cerned at least. 

We arrive at the pier about 7 A. M. in Glasgow, 
where we are met by our new conductor, and driven at 
once to the new and elegant Cockburn Hotel, feeling 
quite ready so far as appetites wei'e concerned to most 
effectually " clean out the hotel " in less time than it 
would take to say it, and as we passed through "Argyll," 
" Buchanan," " Queen," " Sanchiehall street," etc., those 
names appeared to us as familiar as the chimneys of our 
mills, or our Fifth avenue, or Federal street were in 
good old grimy, smoky Pittsburgh, and more inviting- 
Allegheny. Here, too, we are made more at home, for 
we meet dear, good friends, some from across the 
Atlantic, also strangers in a foreign land, and some in 
their own homes. And here also the " Quartette " are 
made acquainted with their first " grief'' ; the mournful, 
sorrowful parting of the " Quartette," for here the 
" Quartette " were to be separated for a little time, and 
we can never extinguish from memory — though we crj^ 
with Lady Ifacbeth, " Out dark, blank spot ! " — the 
swollen, grief-lit eyes of the Doctor, the " Majah " and 
the Colonel as they shook hands with poor lonely " Car- 
lisle,'' when they parted from him and left him weeping 
over their sad departure ; and to settle a little bill from 
a proprietress of a laundr}^ which the trio had forgotten 
(intentionalh^) to liquidate. 



214 Crusade to Europe 



At the Cockbiirn, was a committee from St. Miingo 
Encampment of Knights Templar, of Glasgow, in wait- 
ing to receive us, and informed us they would at 8 P. M. 
escort the Commandery to attend the banquet to be 
tendered by St. Mungo Encampment, and the other 
Masonic bodies of Glasgow, in the Queen's Rooms on 
that evening. 

And here upon the door step of the hotel we were 
greeted by the cheerful smile of our very handsome, 
jovial and genial friend, W. Stilwell, Esq., of Philadel- 
phia, Pa., who had been making a four months' tour of 
Continental countries and the British Kingdom, thereby 
adding vastly to his already large and accumulated stock 
of knowledge, who said "Hello! there, what are you 
doing here ?" We immediately gave him the oath of 
allegiance, made him a Knight of Submission by borrow- 
ing a five dollar bill — or, rather, a pound note each from 
him — and giving hira our individual checks on the 
Allegheny Trust Company; the Major's, however, being, 
1 believe, a lien on some property in the East End, 
which he wanted to donate to the city of Pittsburgh if 
that corporation would relieve him from street improve- 
ment assessments. 

After a good heart}^ breakfast, consisting of " pur- 
ritch '' followed by other good substantials, we repaired 
to our rooms, and, being refreshed by a good " wash up," 
we were prepared to " do " Glasgow. 

From the date of our sailing from New York we had 
heard continually what a stock of clothing was to be laid 



OF Allegheny Commandery. ■ 215 



in on our arrival in Glasgow, so the " Quartette '' then 
started on their day's sight-seeing, first striking a 
merchant tailoring establishment where " Carlisle " was 
well acquainted, and he impressed upon the remaining 
trio of the " Quartette " the cheapness of wearing apparel 
in the British domain. The consequence was, they 
rushed down to the City of Griasgow Bank, and while 
speaking of this unfortunate bank, it might not be 
improper to state here an incident that goes far towards 
accounting for the sudden going down of this famous 
banking institution, which had always been considered 
as solid as the British throne itself, and we state it rriore 
for the benefit of the unfortunate shareholders of that 
bank, many of whom are now ruined, widows and 
orphans supposing themselves sufficiently well oflT to 
carry them nicelj^ through this world, and who are now 
in a condition of penury and poverty, that while the 
Major was in the Bank of the City of Glasgow he me- 
andered into a little room off" to one side and had little 
" confab " with the general cashier, and on coming out 
his person seemed much stouter than usual. Of course 
we do not, under any circumstances, mean to insinuate 
that, for the financial crash that was soon after to fall 
upon that institution a little " Yankee " advice and 
counsel from an attorney to that general cashier had 
anything whatever to do witli the Major's sudden devel- 
opment ; we simply state the case, and would add that, at 
any rate, it is a very reckless way to carry money so 
that corners of five-pound notes may be seen sticking 
out of pants' pockets and peeping out from coat tails, 



2i6 Crusade to Europe 

etc. They then rushed back to the tailoring establish- 
ment and the result was : the Major, four suits and two 
•overcoats ; the Doctor, three suits and one overcoat — he 
^Iso left his linen duster to be padded for fall wear ; the 
■Colonel, ^ue suits and as many overcoats. A wink to 
proprietors from " Carlisle," and net results to that 
personage in that transaction was " two pound ten ; '' and 
they — the Major, Doctor and Colonel — don't know it 3'et. 

Here also we met our kind friends, John B. Main and 
Alexander Main, of Glasgow, to whom also we are 
deeply indebted for many kindnesses and courtesies 
«hown us during our short visit. 

Through the kindness and courtesy of the Sir 
Knights of St. Mungo, eacli of the pilgrims were pre- 
sented with a complete guide book to the city of 
■Glasgow, each book having inscribed thereon the name 
■of each individual Sir Knight of the Commandery, and 
•" with fraternal greetings from St. Mungo Encampment 
of Knights Templar, of Glasgow," a work we proved of 
invaluable service to us while there. 

^We took carriage and proceeded to visit the places of 
interest in this fine old city, and perhaps no citj' in the 
world furnislies so much of interest to the tourist as 
does Glasgow. Scarcely can you turn from one street 
into anotlier bvat some object of ancient and historical 
interest is arrived at, and too short time we must say, 
was allowed to take in all the sights with which this city 
abounds. Glasgow has a population of about six hun- 
hundred thousand, and is the third cit}'^ in point of 
wealth in the United Kingdom. 



OF Ali.egheny Commandf.ry. • 217 



In 1801 the entire population of Glasgow was only 
about 15,000, which shows the remarkable growth up to 
present date, of almost 100 per cent. It has always 
been the veriest stronghold of Presbyterianism, and 
therefore been constantly engaged in all the religious 
struggles which have in their time racked good " Auld 
Scotia'' from one extremity to the other. It will appear 
a singular statement, but none the less a fact, when it is 
known that only one hundred years ago the entire com- 
mercial prosperity, and the entire capital of Glasgow was 
invested in the tobacco trade. The finest mansions and 
buildings in the city to-day are still the property of 
what the civilians are pleased to sarcastically term the 
" Tobacco Lords," in which connection, we might here 
say, that in Britain, the mercantile business is not looked 
upon in the light of Americans, the class of persons en- 
gaged in business, particularly a " Draper," though 
they may be the sovereigns of aristocracy in thought 
and business qualifications, are looked upon as a very 
common sort of people indeed. The late rebellion in 
our own country to a large extent broke up the tobacco 
business of Glasgow, and since that time her coal, iron, 
cotton, ship building and marine interests have been 
making gigantic strides towards eclipsing all other cities 
in the world in vastness of commercial importance, the 
shipbuilding of the Clyde alone, is almost as vast as all 
the other ports of Britain combined. 

Over £5,550,000 sterling or 21,150,000 dollars have 
been expended in widening and deepening the Clyde, the 



2i8 Crusade to Europe 



length of quay -wall being 17,000 feet, and the river in- 
stead of admitting vessels of forty tons burthen, as it 
did not a century ago, now admits the largest class of 
vessels afloat. Few who have not visited Glasgow 
within late years would recognize the place now, with 
street railways, and the vast improvements going on by 
the Caledonian Railwa}^ with a railroad bridge at the 
" Broomielaw," and running up through the centre ot 
the city, magnificent stations and elegant hotels. 

Glasgow Cross is passed, and the scene of the mid- 
night adventure of Francis Osbaldistone and Rob Roy, 
aiid the old Court House, in front of which all criminals 
were executed, a drive through Argyle street, and 
Buchanan street, and we come to the Royal Exchange, a 
handsome building erected, in 1829, costing £50,000. In 
front of this building is a collossal bronze statue of the 
Duke of Wellington, erected by private subscription, 
and costing £10,000. Oh ! for a few Scotchmen, Irish- 
men or Englishmen, just to loan us poor Americans one 
of their thousands of fine statues, to commemorate the 
name of the father of our countr3^ In George's square 
are several fine monuments, the finest being one to Sir 
Walter Scott, there are two bronze statues to Sir John 
Moore and Lord Clyde, two brave generals, and natives 
of Glasgow, also, one in bronze to James Watt, another 
to Sir Robert Peel, and another to Dr. Graham, an 
eminent chemist, also in the square equestrian statues of 
Queen Victoria and the late Prince Consort. Facing the 
square is the Andersonian University, attended b}' 1,700 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 219 

students. The old Glasgow College on High street, is 
now converted into a railway station. We then drive to 
the Cathedral, the largest and best preserved building of 
the kind in Scotland. This fine old structure was 
founded in 1136 hy John Achains, who was appointed by 
David I, to the Bishopric of Glasgow in 1127, and was 
dedicated in 1136, but restored in 1191 by Bishop 
Joceline. 

The Cathedral is in length 319 feet, and sixt^^ three 
feet wide. The interior contains 14'! pillars, and is 
lighted by 159 windows. A splendid tower surmounted 
by a graceful spire rises from its centre 225 feet in 
height. The Choir, which is locally known as the High 
Church, is now used by one of the city churches for their 
place of worship, and behind it are the lady chapel and 
chapter house, in the latter the bishops held their eccle- 
siastical courts. The Dripping Aisle, so called from the 
perpetual dropping of water from the roof, is the lower 
part of the unfinished transept. The Crypt, under the 
Choir, is not surpassed by any similar structure in Great 
Britain. It is 108 feet long, 12 feet wide, supported by 
sixtj^-'five pillars, some of which are 18 feet in circum- 
ference, the height of each being 18 feet long. The 
Iniilding contains many rich and ancient ornamental 
tombs of the worthies of the old city, and of the digni- 
taries of church and state. Mr. Edward Blore, imder 
direction of the government, repaired and renewed certain 
parts of the building which had fallen into decay. During 
the progress of the operations, several fragments of 



Crusa.de to Europe 



mouldings were found which had been used in filling 
up some of the walls, of a much older date than any 
part of the Cathedral, thus proving the existence of a 
previous structure on or near "the same site. These 
mouldings are of beautiful workmanship. In the j^ear 
1856, the citizens of Glasgow projected a movement 
to enhance the beauty ot the Cathedral, by a series 
of stained glass windows. In this they were assisted 
by the government, who placed the east window, the 
finest in the series. The subjects in the windows are 
arranged in chronological order, commencing with the 
expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise, and other 
Old Testament characters ; subjects taken from the 
history of the Jews, the Prophets, and John the Baptist; 
illustrations of the Parables, the Apostles and the 
Evangelists. The Necropolis, adjoining the Cathedral, 
rises steeply 200 to 300 feet in height. The entire 
surface of the rock is divided into walks, and on evevy 
hand are every variety of columns and monumental 
erections, some being very beautiful in design. From 
the side of this resting place of those who sleep therein 
a very fine view of this solid city is to be had, with 
its countless spires and chimney stacks, intersected by 
the ship-laden Clyde. 

A beautiful drive from here is had to and through 
Sanchieliall street, at the western end of which are 
elegant modern terraces and streets which constitute 
the residences of the aristocracy of Grlasgow. Here is 
Kelvin Grove, known as the West End Park, laid 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 



out at an expense of £100,000 to the corporation. 
A very elegant memorial fountain is in this Park, 
erected to the late Lord Provost Stewart, who was 
instrumental in introducing into Glasgow, for its 
use, the clear and delightful water from Loch Katrine. 
Pacing this beautiful park is the unusually handsome 
structure, the University of Glasgow, and from the park 
the view of this building is unusually fine. The floor 
space of this building is 29,200 yards, or about six 
acres, and has a tower 300 feet high. It is the most 
complete and thorough institution of the kind in the 
world, in every respect, the heating and ventilating of 
the building being constructed on a method approved 
by the professors. Por instance, the vitiated air is 
withdrawn from the rooms by the suction power of 
heated flues, and the fresh air is drawn down from 
the middle height of the tower, and propelled over 
the surface of very numerous and extensive hot water 
pipes, by means of a steam engine acting as fanners ; 
about two Tuillion cubic feet of fresh air may be pro- 
pelled per hour through the fanners into the building. 
Then there are the Botanic Gardens, beautifully laid 
out, with a good collection of foreign plants, and the 
Observatorj^, the famous Glasgow Green, and the 
Broomielaw, or harbor of Glasgow, comprising an area 
of seventy-six acres. The City of Glasgow is supplied 
with water brought all the way from Loch Katrine, a 
distance of forty miles, being of the purest quality, 
and the supply is about 28,340,000 gallons, or nearly 
fifty gallons per head. 



Crusade to Europe 



Having- done thus as miicli of the town we could, 
and as it was now almost 5 o'clock, we wended our 
way back to the Cockburn hotel, to make preparations 
for the reception and banquet to be tendered us in 
the evening. 

We must state an incident, however, of those poor 
common plebeians, the Major and the Doctor. Passing 
a trunk store, the necessitj^ of purchasing a. couple of 
" Saratogas " flashed across the minds of the two, and 
they must needs liail the driver to slacken his pace, pull 
into the curb, and permit us to dismount. They were 
" Closing Out Stock at a Great Sacrifice," in the trunk 
shop, and it was a big bonanza to the Doctor and Major. 
They finally struck two that just suited them — one was 
seven guineas, the other " six pounds, fifteen." The}- 
opened the trunk, put down the lid, played with the buc- 
kles on the strap; the Major admired his curly locks in the 
gilt buttons or nail-heads in the trunk, while the Doctor 
examined his " amalgam " and " double uppers," or some 
such thing in his business, in the nail-heads of the other. 
In the meantime the Colonel and " Carlisle " had enjoyed 
several games of croquet on the floor of the store, while 
the other two were trying to calculate and find out what 
the lad}^ who was waiting on them meant by saying she 
would not let them have the two trunks for a " bawbee " 
less, and the Colonel and " Carlisle " were only caused 
to look up at hearing the Doctor commence an outflow of 
refined German, while the Major was muttering something 
about " Scire facias, nolo contendre, nolle pros," etc., 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 



223 



ill reply to the lady saying something about that inno- 
cent little piece of money, the " bawbee." We righted 
them, however, and finally " Carlisle " was urged on to 
"jew " the woman down, and succeeded in spending the 
funds of the two — our dentist and barrister. Returning 
to the hotel, and relishing the good dinner in M^aiting for 
us, we were called upon by our escort, and were driven 
to the Queen's rooms, where was accorded us the largest 
largest reception we had the honor and pleasure to re- 
ceive while on our crusade. It was tendered us by St. 
Mungo Encampment and the Masonic bodies of Glasgow 
in general ; but the former body having charge of the 
atfair, it was a reception in full Templar uniform. Ex- 
Provost Bain, of Glasgow, occupied the chair, and de- 
livered the address of " welcome" in words of which 
only genuine -Scotchmen are capable of giving, and Sir 
Knight Shaw, the Eminent Commander of St. Mungo 
Encampment, also gave us hearty welcome to the bouii. 
ties of St. Mungo in a few kind words, and the following 
poem, written for the occasion of the grand reception 
and banquet : 




224 Crusade to Europe 



To the American Si?' Knights of Allegheny Commandejy, N'o. jj, 
K. T., on their visit to Glasgoio, Scotland, Jttly 2jd, iSfS. 

Ye valiant Sir Knights from far distant slrore, 
As pilgrims you're welcome to Scotia once more ; 
Where some of your forefathers first saw the light, 
Ere they sailed to the west, with the craft to imite 
In that glorious work, the red and the blue, — 
In your land sought a home as citizens true, 
And adopted your laws, and made them your own ; 
They have fought for your cause, adorned your throne. 

Hence naught can estrange, nor the ocean divide 

These true hearts where precepts like ours doth reside ; 

Where charity reigneth and unity c.well. 

No creed in creation can ever excel 

Those tenets so bright, those principles pure — 

Love God and thy fellow man, wealthy or poor. 

Though submerged for a while, that great mystic chain. 

At sight of Old Erin, 'twas soon linked again. 

With that kind of friendship there's none can withstand, 

With pure aspirations, fraternal and grand ; 

A cause that is holy, a cause that's sublime. 

Embracing adherents of every clime. 

Then here's to that hand of great enterprise, 
Where the Star Spangled Banner majesticly flies. 
Where Washington's name is displayed on your chart, 
And the name of a brother dear to the heart. 
Who, if found in distress is welcomed and cheered. 
For feelings of charity there are not seared. 
There none but the honest and just are enrolled. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 225 

Well known to be such ere they enter the fold, 
Not merely in name, but by scrutiny's lance. 
Which raises you far above misguided France, 
Who now are cast out like that fallen host,. 
Whom Milton portrays in his Paradise Lost; 
Rebellious, unfaithful they've heaped on them shame. 
They've purchased dishonor, they've sullied their fame. 

May Omnipotent power upon you attend. 

To guard you wherever your tour doth extend, 

I'hat nothing may happen to cause you regret 

Is the heart wish of all who to-night here have met, 

May that fire of friendship so nobly portrayed 

By our sage from Kentucky in your ijreasts never fade; 

And when to your far distant homes you return. 

In your hearts may true friendship continue to burn. 

Of this reception the North British Mail of Glasgow 
the following clay, says : " One of the most snccessfnl 
and enjoyable meetings ever held in Scotland in connec- 
tion with the ancient order of Freemasonry took place 
last evening in the Queen's Rooms. The occasion was 
the reception of a deputation of American Sir Knii^hts 
and brethren, some of whom were on a second pilgrim- 
age to Europe. In order to make the reception worthy 
of the occasion, all the arrangements which the Provin- 
cial Grand Lodge of Scotland, and St. Mungo Encamp- 
ment of Glasgow could devise were concluded, and those 
who took an active part in the ceremony may be con- 
gratulated on its signal success. For a long series of 
years, ever since Masonry gained a footing in the United 
States, reciprocal feelings and aspirations have been 
breatlied from both sides of the Atlantic for its welfare, 
and none were more willing to extend that feeling than the 

o 



226 Crusade to Europe 



brethren of the United States, whose forefathers, no 
doubt, had first received the precepts of the order in the 
old country. Shortly after eight o'clock the company 
began to arrive at the Queen's Rooms, and there could 
not have been far short of five hundred Masons of all 
grades met to do honor to the distinguished American 
Masons, the most of whom are clothed in their handsome 
regalia as worn in America hy the Knights Templar. 
Tliey were received through an arch of steel formed by 
St. Mungo Encampment, and introduced b^^ their Emi- 
nent Commander, W. F. Shaw, to the Provincial Grand 
Master, Colonel Montgomery J^eilson." 

After the reading of the poem we were soon seated to 
a ro3'al feast, every delicacy of the season being spread 
upon the banquet boards, and fully five hundred Tem- 
plars and Masons sat down at that table, every one of 
those five hundred, in their overflowing goodness of 
Scotch heart, caring kindly for each of us " poor, hun- 
gry, ill-fed" pilgrims in a foreign land. The tables were 
ladened with sweet flowers, and large and beautiful silver 
and crystal epergnes stood upon each table filled with 
the most lovel}^ of cut flowers, the fragrance from and 
the appearance of the whole resembling one vast garden 
of the most beautiful gift of God to man. Those good 
people had an American garden growing somewhere in 
anticipation of our visit, for nothing that is plentiful with 
us was missing in the way of fruits. It may be consid- 
ered a pardonable breach of etiquette on our part if the 
guests speak of the table of the host in tliis instance, for 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 227 

everything savored so of the good things of this life, on 
that evening, that to show our fellow brethren here in this 
country how our fraters of St. Mungo anticipated our 
American likes, we cannot refrain from mentioning a few 
of the delicacies spread before us at that reception. 
Following the more substantials were watermelons, cit- 
rons, grapes, pears, peaches greengages, bananas, pine- 
apples, and so on ; and is it necessary to add to this vul- 
garit}" about eating, to say that every mother's son of 
the pilgrims of Allegheny Commandery did their dut^^ 
nobly on that occasion ? Our Eminent Commander re- 
plied to the address of welcome by detailing the origin 
of their visit to the old country, and referred to the kind 
reception we had received in Ireland, before coming to 
Scotland. " The grand Masonic chain," he said, " which 
had been, so to speak, broken by the Atlantic, had been 
linked again when they met their brethren of Ireland 
and Scotland, and the present was by far the largest and 
grandest link they had ever seen. He and his brethren 
would not easily forget the kind reception they had that 
night received. Their Grand Master had just referred 
to the erection of a temple, but what better temple could 
they have in view, than the one referred to by our Lord 
Jesus Christ, in Avhich brotherl}^ love, charity and all the 
graces had their abode. He concluded by wishing everj' 
pi'osperity to the Freemasons of Scotland." The toast 
was pledged with three ringing American cheers " sent 
home" with an American skyrocket, a genuine " fizzer." 
The " Queen and Craft" were pledged and enthusiastic- 
ally received. 



228 Crusade to Europe 



Brother Cowper, the American Consul at Glasgow^ 
who occupied the vice chair, in welcoming his brethren, 
said the Scotch were hard to become acquainted with, 
but when one knew them thoroughly, they found them 
possessed of the biggest hearts in the world." Brother 
Ex-Provost, Sir James Bain, responded to the toast, the 
'' President of the United States," and cheerfully re- 
ferred to the kindness he had received while acting as 
one of the Judges at the Centennial Exhibition in Phila- 
delphia. Prof. Wm. H. Slack favored the company, in 
answer to calls for him, with one or two of his most 
pleasant songs, and we never recollect hearing Mr. Slack 
in better trim for doing so than on that evening. 

Speech followed speech and song followed song, 
amono; which was a most pleasant feature. In the com- 
pany were a body of Masons, composed entirely of 
Highlanders, all dressed in their handsome kilt costumes 
— and to see a handsome body of handsomely built 
handsome men, commend us to our good Highland 
fraters of St. Mungo — and we were treated to a couple 
of Highland songs in their Gaelic tongue; the airs were 
beautiful, and we are certain the words were also, and 
tliey were sung to the music of the bagpipes — a novelty 
to nearly all of the party. Deafening cheers ran through 
that hall, one thousand feet stamped the pleasure of all, 
and that substantial building was almost fairly made to 
shake as round after round of applause went forth at the 
words of speakers. After considerable speechifying had 
been done, towards the close of the evening, when the 
best of words were becoming a little droll. Major W. C. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 229 

Moreland arose in response to a toast, and commenced his 
remarks in an unusually low tone, and there sat the iex- 
Provost of Glasgow, the Sheriff of Glasgow, the Provin- 
cial Grand Master of Masons of Scotland and his officers, 
and no one was expecting much from the manner in which 
the speaker commenced ; but as he warmed up in his 
eloquence, as he breathed forth his seemingly inspired 
thoughts, as he worked out his wonderfully^ exquisite and 
beautiful periods, with not a grammatical or rhetorical 
error in his remarks, we looked around and saw those five 
hundred heads motionless and still, those thousand eyes 
and hands as immovable as the walls of the building 
surrounding them. Assuredly on that evening he ex- 
celled himself, for, on closing his remarks, had heaven's' 
artillery rolled its loudest battery, it would have been 
but as a whisper in that hall, compared with the terrible 
outburst of actual yells and applause from those present. 
Imagine if you can, dear reader, " Auld Lang Syne" 
sung by such an audience ; it was the only '' Auld Lang 
Syne " we ever heard. No wheedling "Auld Lang Syne," 
but good Scotch " Auld Lang Syne " poured forth in 
the broad accent of that noble people. 

As the " wee sma' hours " were in upon us we parted 
companjr, assuredly with deep regret. The hearty shake 
of the hand to Allegheny by St. Mungo will ever be 
impressed with the most vivid and pleasant of recollec- 
tions ; the St. Mungo can ever rest assured that while 
Allegheny lives she will ever remember the evening spent 
'neath the tents of our warm-hearted, generous and kind 
fraters of Glasgow. 



Crusade to Europe 



'• CARLISLE " SEPARATED FROM THE QUARTETTE. 

Despite the pleasantries of tlie evening alluded to, 
through it all there was evidently in the interesting 
proceedings and general mirth a sigh of sadness coming 
at intervals from the Doctor on whose right sat " Car- 
lisle," while on the left of the presiding officer's chair sat 
the Major and the Colonel, over whose faces rested a 
shade of melancholy ; and we feign would know the 
reason of these sombre appearances. Towards the close 
of the evening these became more apparent, until reach- 
ing our rooms about one o'clock in the morning, the 
stout heart of the Doctor completely gave way, and 
bursting out into tears and howls, as we have known him 
to do over a " deceased purp," he exclaimed, " Oh I 
' Carlisle,' must we go and leave you ? Oh, I am sorely 
' grieved.' " This " fetched down " the house. It was 
too much for the Major and the Colonel, and immediately 
every appearance of a funeral or a " wake " was in that 
room; the tender "boo-hoos" of the Colonel brought 
the hotel proprietor to see what poor soul was in grief ; 
and although our separation was to be but for a day or 
so, yet the trio refused to be comforted or consoled. 
The Colonel perched on the side of the bed, his head 
buried deep in a pillow resting on his knee, wliile on a 
little bare spot on the summit of his cranium were nine 
Scotch flies, drawn up like an American base-ball field ; 
but to these the brave warrior was oblivious. But to 
part we had. and " Carlisle " advised them to take it all 
philosophically and we would soon be re-united once more. 
Accepting which, they finally subdued their " overcome- 



OK Allegheny Commandery. 231 

ness." We then proceeded to lay out our plans ; and 
now we are satisfied the whole " boo-hooing- " plan was a 
complete " set up" job to prey npon the feelings of poor 
" Carlisle," as the sequel will show. 

The Doctor, if anything, the deeper villain of the 
three, commenced by saying, " ' Carlisle,' I had n't time 
to get my ' washing done ' to-day, I'll leave it here, and 
you bi'ing it to me at Edinburgh, and I'll settle with you 
there." It evidently was a preconceived plan, for the 
" Majah " and the Colonelboth had forgotten to attend 
to that duty on that day, and '' Carlisle," innocentl}^ and 
unsuspectingly, from the goodness of his heart, proffered 
his ever-ready services to the distressed, and agreed to 
do so. All three then fell upon the neck of " Carlisle "■ 
and wept severely, the " boo-hoo-ing " was revived more 
than ever, good-bye was repeated over and over again ^ 
and we repaired to our room. The reason of the separa- 
tion was, that having all gone over the ground the party 
were going over, — viz. : to Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine, 
Sterling, etc. — we did not care to repeat it ; and as we 
had many kind friends to see around Glasgow, we 
separated, to overtake the party at Edinburgh. We will 
return to the " wash bill " later on. 

At 5 A. M., the following morning, Mr. W. Stilwell, 
and "Carlisle" were called, had breakfast, and leaving 
our fellow-companions comfortably asleep, we took train 
for Hamilton. Having a " dog-cart " in waiting for us 
b3^ Mr. William Wallace, of that place, we drove away 
up to the Hairshawhead, four miles above Straven, and 



Crusade to Europe 



twelve above Hamilton ; the drive is through a beautiful 
country-, though hillj'-, but the air is so pure and free, 
that 3'ou are at once invigorated and feel good and fresh. 
Arriving at the Hairshawhead, we find our old kind and 
good friend, Mr, James Semple, the owner of the place, 
and with his estimable wife, we all enter the house to 
eujoy a little social and pleasant chat. Perhaps no farm 
in Scotland, vast as it is, comprising some seven hundred 
acres, bears a better name for care and production than 
the " Auld Hairshawhead," while at every fair is carried 
away the first prize for stock by "Auld Hairshae." As 
we could remain but a short time, we enjo3'ed a hearty 
dinner, appetite for which had been given us by an earlj' 
start and a long drive. We " buckled the beast," and 
returned to Hamilton, spending half an hour and enjoy 
ing the hospitality of our friend, Mr. Colin Spalding, 
whose name is well known there as being the prince of 
hotel keepers in his commodious and very comfortable 
Commercial Hotel, under whose roof man}^ a pleasant 
■evening has been spent by the writer. 

Having done ourselves the pleasure of calling on the 
Misses Sommerville, of Hamilton, we took tea in the 
pleasant little cottage of Mrs. James Main, whose 
husband (now deceased) bore for many long j'-ears the 
honor of Baillie of Hamilton. 

By the way, here, allow us to suggest to intending 
tourists to Scotland — by no means allow the points of 
interest and beauties of Hamilton and Lanarkshire and 
vicinit}^ to be missed in j^our sight-seeing. Hamilton 
itself is a beautiful little town, and is noted for its fruit 



OF Allegheny Ccimmandery. 



and flower gardens; In the old town is a spot called 
" Queenzie Neuk," where Queen Mary rested on her 
journey to Langside, and many other places of interest 
in Scottish history. Here also is Hamilton Palace, the 
seat of the Duke of Hamilton ; it is a magnificent build- 
ing and is shown only to well introduced visitors. The 
pillars of the portico, twelve in number, are twenty-five 
feet high and fully ten feet in span, and are each formed 
of a solid block of stone, quarried at Dalserf and 
requiring thirty horses to draw each stone to its position. 
Its interior is richly and fitly furnished and contains 
a number of costly works of art and virtu. The picture 
g-allery is one of the finest in Scotland, and contains 
many famous pictures, such as the " Entombment of 
Christ," by Ponssin ; " The Ascension," b}^ Giorgione ; 
*'The Madonna of Corregio;'' "A Stag Hunt," by 
Snyders ; Ruben's celebrated painting of " Daniel in the 
Lion's Den," etc., etc., and there is some £15,000 worth 
of rare prints. The plate, including a gold set, is 
valued at £50,000. Then within the grounds is the 
magnificent Mausoleum, and within short drives of the 
Palace are Cadzow Castle, Bothwell Castle, a handsome 
old ruin, Bothwell Bridge, the field of Dru_mclog, and 
many such places identified with the Scottish wars and 
history, over all of which we cannot in this work justly 
go. Let us not, however, forget to mention the beautiful 
Palls of Clyde, a short distance above the town of 
Lanark, and tourists will be depi'ived of a rich treat in 
not paying these pretty little Falls a visit, for these and 
a,ll around this delightful section will find it more than 



234 Crusade to Euroi'e 

nsaally attractive to readers, lovers and admirers of tliat 
grand and noble old people, the Scotch. They are a 
grand people in the truest sense of the word — no partic- 
ular hurry and bustle, it is true; but straightforward, 
honest and canny — you can depend on them every time. 

A noticeable feature between this people and those of 
the pretty Emerald Isle we have just left — and we mean 
no disrespect in saying so (for it would be hard to find a 
better people than the Irish) — and that is this : An 
Irishman will tell you the longest Indian and snake 
yarns for the honest, serious, pure God's truth ; but a 
Scotchman will tell you the same yarns, but will add,. 
" that it is ^aid to be true," or " aaid to have occurred." 
While speaking of the Scotchman, we lately heard a 
prettj^ good story of a Highlandman and an English 
thorough Cockney in a row boat, away through the 
Highlands somewhere ; and although it has no reference 
to the subject in hand, the story is good enough to be 
told anywhere and under any circumstances : 

It appears the Highlandman was rowing a part\^ 
across one of the lakes, and in tlie party was a thorough 
Cockney, who thought it would be good fun to stand up 
and rock the boat. The Highlander said to Mr. English- 
man, " Tu had better sit doon or tu will fall oot." But 
the rocking continued until, sure enough, Mr. Englishman 
did " fall oot," and being unable to swim, the Highlander 
reached for him, grabbing him by the top of the head,, 
pulling away the wig of the Cockney. He reached for 
him as he was disai)pearing for the second time, catching 



OK Allegheny Commandery. 235 

him by the breast, this time pulling away his paper 
"dickey," which so surprised the " Heelaudman '' that 
he threw the imitation shirt and scalp into the bottom of 
the boat and exclaimed, "My Grod, the man's made o' 
remnants ! " 

We were very sorry our time was so short here, for 
this seemed to us to be our real home, and we should 
have loved to have remained longer, so taking train we 
returned to Glasgow, only ten miles distant from Hamil- 
ton, and returning to the hotel somewhat tired, we sat 
down to enjoy a cigar, when in came a party of about 
one hundred, which proved to be the Young Men's 
Christian Association from America, among whom was 
our fellow-townsman, Mr. Robert Orr, who was looking 
well. Of course the hotel that evening was of a 
thoroughly religious character, and it was a gratification 
indeed, to see so many young men engaged in this good 
work, all on their way to Geneva, we believe, to exchange 
congratulations with their brethren of the Old World 
over their reformation of the wicked and worldl}^ Next 
day we enjoyed in visiting friends in Glasgow, and we 
were very sorry at being compelled to leave without 
shaking hands with our friend, Mr. Hume. Through 
the kindness of Mr. John B. Main, we were shown 
through the enormous business house of Messrs. Arthur 
& Compan}^, engaged in the general dry goods line. At 
4 P. M. we bade good-bye to our friend, Mr. Stiiwell — 
he to sail that evening on S. S. " Anchoria," of Anchor 
Line, for home, and I to rejoin the party at Eldinburgh. 



236 Crusade to Europe 



Calling at tlie office of the hotel for the aforesaid 
" washing bill," which being presented, each separate 
item was carefully scrutinized — the Colonel's, one pound 
fifteen ; the Major's, one pound fourteen and two pence 
ha'penny : and the Doctor's, one pound nine and a penny 
three farthings ; which " bills of particulars" led us 
fully to believe no " cleansing" had been done for either 
of those three renowned personages for the past seven- 
teen years, as was the self-confessed case of our Teutonic 
friend engaged in the jewelry business. " Carlisle'' de- 
murred at the payment of these gross amounts, and see- 
ing no way to compromise on their confounded " soiled 
linen," he determined to leave their collars and socks and 
" sich" for the benefit of the poor ; we wanted to com- 
promise by having the hotel people keep the " furnishing 
goods" aforesaid if I would pay for the white ties these 
plebeians had "embezzled" from "Carlisle's" satchels ; but, 
evidently anticipating something of this kind, they at- 
tached " Carlisle's " baggage, and as the hour for leaving 
had come, we were compelled to pay up, and take their 
abominable luggage along. 

Let us say here, that nowhere on our trip did we en- 
joy ourselves more, have a better place to stop at, and 
more kind attention, than from Mr. and Mrs. Philp, 
the proprietors of the New Cockburn Hotel, of Glasgow 
— the latter being a native of Louisiana, and her genia^ 
husband we have frequentl}^ met in our own city of Alle- 
gheny. The hotel is newly built, newly furnished, and 
is a model in every respect. 



OF ALLEGftENY COMMANDERY. 237 

Seated in the cars were soon sonnd asleep, and 
awakened only as we were entering the renowned old 
city and capital of Edinburgh, Scotland, and, on look- 
ing out of the windows of the cars, we saw Clinton and 
Fnllerton and Moreland and Baxter linked arm-in-arm 
sti'olling toward the hotel. We soon rejoined them. 




2^8 Crusade to Eorope 



^^ 

Edinburgh. — Presentation of Bills to the Trio of the 
" Quartette." — Reception and Banquet by the Pro- 
vincial Grand Lodge. — Melrose and Abbottsford. — 
Recherche Banquet at Leeds. — To London, and the 
Doctor and " Carlisle," now t"wro poor and weary 
pilgrims, traveling alone. — Incidents by the "Way. 

As it was ahnost evening when we arrived in this 
good old capital city of Scotland, and the Commandery 
had arrived there during the night before, they had had 
the opportunity of seeing all the objects of local and 
historical points of interest which Edinburgh presents, 
the writer having more than once visited its attractive 
features, we did not care to again go over oft trodden 
ground, so we need not, therefore, enter into anj^ detail 
of its palaces, castles, monuments, etc., further than a- 
casual glance of a few of the many points which would 
interest the sight-seer for weeks, in following the won- 
derful histor^r of Scotland, especially this ancient city 
of that good old countr3', whose wars and fame rank 
with those of the Romans, and have formed some re- 
markable historical annals in the history of the world. 



OF Allegheny Commanderv. • 239 

The site of Bdinburgli is generalh' admitted to be 
one of the most striking of any of the European capi- 
itals, and a more charming prospect than its liills present 
cannot be conceived, and David Macbeth beautifully and 
compreliensively describes its view and situation in the 
following words : 

" Traced like a map the landscape lies, 
In cultured beauty stretching wide ; 
There Pentland's green acclivities ; 
There Ocean with its azure tide ; 
There Arthur's seat; and gleaming through 
Thy southern wing, Dunedin blue ! 
While in the Orient, Lammer's daughters, 
A distant giant range are seen, 
North Berwick law, with cone of green, 
And Bass amid the waters." 

In- Princes street, a beautiful avenue, built only upon 
one side, with pleasure gardens upon the other side, 
stands the elegant monument to Sir Walter Scott, a 
magnificent piece of work costing £16,000. The Ro3^al 
Institution, the National Gallery of Painting, the High 
School, the Philosophical Institution, etc., in the new 
town, are all worthy a visit, and much time can pleas- 
antly and profitably be spent yisiting them. 

In close alliance to history, however, is the old town 
of Edinburgh, and while the new is beautifully laid out, 
terraced, and massively built with elegant modern build- 
ings, with magnificent streets and drives, we will with 
the reader take a little walk through the old town, and 
take a hasty glimpse into a few of its famed courts 
and noolcs; as every inch of this ground covers pages 



240 Crusade to Europe 



in history we cannot dwell long with any, nor speak of 
but a limited number. First, we come to the Uastle, which 
stands upon a precipitous rock three hundred and eighty- 
three feet above the level of the sea, and commands a 
splendid view of the city and the surrounding country. 
Before gunpowder was invented, it was considei'ed 
entirely impregnable, but with Gatling and Krupp guns 
of to-day, we fear sad havoc would be made of the 
walls and the valuable inner apartments. This old 
Castle is associated with many wonderful events, as 
doubtless all are familiar with its history, the attack 
upon it, in 1313, by Randolph, Earl of Moray, the 
defense of it, in Queen Mary's behalf by Sir William 
Kircaldy, and in 1650 its surrender to Oliver Cromwell. 
In the Crown Room are deposited the regalia, the 
insignia of Scottish royalty, consisting of the crown, 
sceptre, sword of state, and Lord Treasurer's rod of 
office. Adjoining the Crown Room is Queen Mary's 
Room, where Queen Mary gave birth to James YI, in 
whom the crowns of England and Scotland were united, 
On the wall is the following inscription, surmounted 
by the Scottish arms : 

" Lord Jesu Chryst, that crounit was with thornse, 
Preserve the birth, quhais Badgie heir is borne, 
And send Hir sonne successione, to reigne still, 
Lang in this realm, if that it be thy will. 
Als grant, O Lord, quhat ever of Hir proceed. 
Be to thy honer, and Praise, sobied. 
19th, IVNII, 1566. 
Upon the highest point of rock is Saint Margaret's 
Chapel, the oldest in Scotland, as Queen Margaret 
died in 1093, and close b}^ this is famous old " Mons 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 241 

Meg," a gigantic piece of artillery, cast in Belginm, 
in 1476, and having a history dating with the James's 
of Scotland. It is at the bore twenty inches in 
diameter, was used at the siege of Dumbarton in 1489, 
and Worham in the reign of James lY, in 149 Y ; was 
burst in 1683, in firing a salute of honor, removed to tlie 
tower of London in 1684, and on the petition of Sir 
Walter Scott, was restored to the Castle by the Duke of 
Wellington in 1829. 

Going down the High street, built up on either side 
are houses with ten, eleven and twelve stories to each, and 
it is no little source of amusement to see " washings" 
hanging out from the topmost stories from oue side of 
the street to the other, with a pair of hose looking 
like a dot in the heavens, and articles of unmentionable 
nature resembling but the very small end of an Ameri- 
can boy's kite-tail on one of our fire alarm telegraph 
wires. 

Every building and dilapidated house and court 
upon this street has a history, and was the residence of 
some of the royalty, living in those disturbing days, and 
whose lives and characters go to make up that history. 
Upon the site of the Free Church Assembly Hall stood 
the house of Mary of Guise, Queen of James Y, and 
mother of Queen Mary. Then there is a small remnant 
of the famous West Bow, which was ascended by Anne 
of Denmark, James I, Charles I, Oliver Cromwell, 
Charles II, James YII, and was the route by which the 
Marquis of Montrose and the Earl of Argyle were con- 

p 



242 Crusade to Europe 



vej'ecl in the hangman's cart to their place of execution 
in the Grassmarliet, and tlirougli this West Bow the 
murderers of Captain Porteus hurled their victim, which 
incident forms one of the most striking incidents in Sir 
Walter Scott's Midlothian. Then we come to St. Giles 
Church, a very ancient building, and belongs architect- 
ui'ally to various times. It was in the choir of this 
church, in 163*1, that Jenn}^ Geddes, a very devout lad}' 
indeed, threw her cutty stool at the Dean of Edinburgh, 
on his attempiing to read the new Episcopal service 
book. 

In Parliament Square also is the Parliament House, 
the ancient meeting place of the Scottish Parliament, 
but which has been appropriated since the Union for the 
use of the Supreme Courts, in connection with which is 
the Advocates' Librar}^, containing the most valuable col- 
lection of books in Scotland, nurabering upwards of 
200,000 volumes, including very rare and curious works 
in Scottish poetry. 

John Knox's house, provided for him in 1559, when 
he was elected minister of Edinburgh, is also in High 
street, where the great reformer resided from 1560 to 
15t2, and passing on down by many objects of interest, 
we come to Holy rood Palace. No building has ever, 
before its foundation or since, passed through such 
scenes of ambition, strife and bloodshed as has done the 
original church of the Holy Rood. Founded and richly 
endowed by King David I, as a church, it passes through 
years of worship within its walls, is burned, rebuilt, be- 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 243 

comes the seat and home of royaltj^ and the scene and 
seat of conspiracy, bloodshed, murder, crime, arson, &c., 
with such rapidity as to malve its history a startling- 
panorama. 

Here resided the Duke of York, afterwards James 
II, of England, the adventurous Charles Edward Stuart, 
and the exiled Comte d'Artois, afterwards Charles X, 
of France ; and George IV, on his visit to Edinburgh in 
1822, held levees in the Palace, and it is still used by the 
present Queen Yictoria as her residence on her visits to 
and from the Highlands of Scotland. 

The most interesting portion of the Palace of course 
is Queen Mary's apartments ; we enter Queen Mary's 
bedroom containing an ancient bed and some furniture. 
On one side of the room is the door of the secret pass- 
age by which the conspirators entered, and adjoining is 
the cabinet where they found their victim, Rizzio. It is 
said he was dragged from this to the door of the 
Audience Chamber, where he was finally despatched, and 
the exact spot where the body lay is identified by a stain 
of blood, still visible. Darnley, who headed the con- 
spirators, entered first, and casting " his arm fondly 
round the Queen's waist, seated himself beside her at a 
table. Lord Ruthven followed in complete armor, looking 
pale and ghastly, as one scarcely recovered from long 
sickness. Others crowded in after them, till the closet 
was filled with armed men. While the Queen demanded 
the purpose of their coming, Rizzio, who saw that his life 
was aimed at, got behind her and clasped the folds of her 



244 Crusade to Europe 



gown, that the respect due to her person might protect 
him. The assassins threw down the table, and seized 
upon the unfortunate object of their vengeance, while 
Darnle}^ himself took hold of the Queen, and forced 
Rizzio and her asunder. It was their intention, doubt- 
less, to have dragged Kizzio out of Mary's presence, and 
to have killed him elsewhere, but their fierce impatience 
hurried them into instant murder. They dragged him 
through the bed-room and ante-room and despatched 
him at the head of the staircase with no less than fifty- 
six wounds. Then there is the Abbey of Holyrood and 
Queen Mary's bath, &c. Arthur's seat is a beautiful 
drive, it being entirel}^ surrounded by a magnificent 
roadway called the " Queen's Drive." We hastily 
glance at the XJniversit}^, Greyfriars' Church and Church- 
yard, Heriot's Hospital, the Dean Bridge, the Fettes 
College and a drive through the beautiful streets in the 
new town of Edinburgh, and j'ou have been with us on one 
of the most delightful drives and walks possible in any 
country. With a closely read history of Scotland, 3'ou 
have here in Edinburgh much food for memory and 
thought, and we need speak no fai'ther than we have 
already hastily done, as but few can exist, who are not 
as entirely familiar with its sights and historical objects 
as though they had gone over the ground in person, if 
they have have never done so in fact. 

Upon entering the hotel, the " quartette" were soon 
reimited, tears of joy flowed free as a never- failing 
mountain stream, and mirth, merriment and rejoicing 



OF ALLEGHENY CoMMAMJKRY. 245, 

were the order of the hour over the wandering '■ Car- 
lisle's" return. Just think of it, " Carlisle" had been 
absent from them for over two days, or as you like it, 
they had been absent from " Carlisle" for over two 
days. 

" ! my, how glad we are to see you once more, my 
dear ' Carlisle ' ! '' " How, oh ! how we have missed you, 
' Carlisle ' ! " and such expressions gushed forth from 
the mouths and hearts of these scheming plebeians ; 
and while this "taffy'' business was going on, "Car- 
lisle" inwardl}^ chuckled over tlie " Sweet Williams" in 
his pocket, which would soon bring forth such " bless- 
ings " as the Irish women of Queenstown pour out upon 
you when j^ou refuse to bu}^ an}'^ of their sweet little 
shamrock or gooseberries, etc. Tapping the Doctor on 
the watch-chain, for we couldn't reach up to his shoul- 
der, we called him over to one side, and, in a low tone, 
said : " One pound, nine and a penny three farthings ? '' 
"Wliat for? " jrelled the Doctor, his joyous expression 
of face over " Carlisle's '' return, changing to one of 
savage madness. ''Washing!'' whispered "Carlisle." 
"Washing ? " yelled the now almost maniac, and said he 
never would pay it. "All right, Doctor, if it suits you, 
we can stand it," we replied. Tearing to further dis- 
turb the guests of the hotel, we called the Major and our 
gallant Colonel out, and wandering away up to old 
" Mons Meg '' (the aforementioned small sized cannon 
in the Castle,) we got the commander to load old 
" Mons '' up, and to fire her off when the " Majah " and 



246 Crusade to Europe 



the Colonel were about to reply. Putting a cart-load of 
powder into old " Mons," we seated ourselves on that 
high eminence on which the Castle is situated, covering 
that magnificent view, and calling their attention, we 
whispered to the Major, " One pound fourteen and two- 
pence ha'penny ; " and to the Colonel, " One pound, 
fifteen ; '' when up jumped the two with a ferocious, 

demoniacal yell. '' Ah ! " but we could n't hear the 

remainder of the sentence, as our scheme with old "Mons 
Meg" worked like a charm; for at that moment she belched 
forth her fire and smoke, drowning at least a little of the 
soft intonations of the gentlemen's voices. " Never pay it 
— never would ! " echoed from them. We chuckled still 
further when we thought of about a hundred pounds' 
worth of new clothing in our trunk as "collateral" for 
their battle-worn linen, without buttons even ; and we 
thought the " collateral " good, too, remembering that 
one coat of the Doctor's would make us a suit for sum- 
mer and an overcoat for winter. Hinting the same, and 
stating we would immediately foreclose on the security, 
the gentlemen " came down " handsomely, paid their just 
bills, and, sotto voce, " Carlisle " was in another " pound, 
seven and six." 

At eight o'clock on this evening, we were waited upon 
by an escort, or rather a committee, from the Grand Lodge 
of Masons of Edinburgh, Scotland, and taken to Free- 
masons' Hall, where another reception was tendered us ; 
and coming as it did .entirely spontaneously, and without 
any previous notice, was one of the most enjoyable affairs 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 247 



of the kind occurring on our tour. We were shown the 
beauties of the Grand Lodge room, the beauty and skill 
of the portraitures on the walls and ceiling, after which 
an exchange of congratulations with our newly-made 
friends, for we soon all knew each other as well as 
though we had been acquainted for years. We were 
conducted into the Board Room, and there sat down to a 
magnificent banquet table, covered with the good things 
of this life. Toasts, speeches, song and pleasant conver- 
sation soon passed the hours away. Of this reception and 
banquet the Edinburgh Gourant with others speak thus : 
"Another Masonic meeting similar to the one held on 
Tuesday evening, (alluding to one tendered upon invi- 
tation to Mary Commandery, No. 36, of Philadelphia,) 
took place in Freemasons' Hall last night for the pur- 
pose of welcoming a ' Masonic Pilgrimage' from America. 
Brother William Mann, Past Senior Grrand Warden, 
occupied the throne on the occasion ; Brother Dr. J. Car- 
michael, R. W. M. of St. Andrew's, No. 48, acting as 
Senior Grand Warden ; and Brother W. Greig, Grand 
Master of St. Stephen's, No. 145, acting as Junior 
Grand Warden ; and these were supported by repre- 
sentatives of Grand Lodge and Masters of Lodges in the 
metropolitan province, who received the pilgrims as 
Master Masons. Amongst the members of Grand Lodge 
present were — Brothers D. Murray Lyon, Grand Secre- 
tary ; David Kinnear, Grand Cashier ; R. S. Brown, 
representative of the Grand Lodge of Kentucl^y ; Dr. 
Loth, representative of the Grand Orient of France ; Dr. 
Walter S. Carmichael, Dr. Dickson, Lindsay Mackersey, 



248 Crusade to Europe 



Schopp, and Kay, &c. The visitors were members 
of the Allegheny Commander}^, No. 35, of Knights 
Templar, of Pennsylvania, at present on a pilgrimage 
from America to Ireland, Scotland, England, Holland, 
Belgium, the Rhine, Switzerland, Italy, and the Paris 
Exposition, About thirty of them attended the meet- 
ing. On the arrival of the memberSj Grand Lodge was 
opened in the first degree, and the visitors were received 
with the customary honors, when a few words of hearty 
welcome were addressed to them from the throne. Tlie 
Grand Master extended to each a fraternal greeting on 
the part of the brethren present, and the Eminent Com- 
mander Brother Smith suitably acknowledged the wel- 
come, expressed the gratitude of his brethren for the 
manner in which they had been received, and the hope 
that in America they would soon have an opportunity of 
receiving visitors from the Grand Lodge of Scotland. 
Brother Hay then in a few sentences referred to the 
presence of Brother Dr. Morris, whose name as an 
author in Masonic literature was so well known to ever^^ 
reading Mason, and craved leave specially to thank the 
learned brother for his visit. This was carried with 
acclamation, and Brother Ha}^ tastefully discharged the 
duty thus placed upon him. Dr. Morris, in the course of 
his repl^'^, directed the attention of the visitors to the 
hall of Grand Lodge. Its beauty, and the skill 
displayed in the portraiture on its walls, would not, he/ 
assured them, be excelled in an}' Masonic temple the;; 
might visit, though some would be seen more costly and\ 
more elaborate : and he congratulated Grand Lodge on 



OF Allkghkny Commandery. 249 

tlici possession of such a gem. Grand Lodge was then 
closed, and the brethren thereafter adjourned to the 
board-room, where they sat down to a banquet. After 
some time liad been spent in friendl}^ conversation, a 
number of toasts were given from tlie cliair, comprising 
" The Queen," " The President of tlie United States," 
and then the toast of the evening — " Tlie Yisiting 
Brethren." In speaking to the latter the acting Grand 
Master expressed the pleasure which it afforded the 
brethren to see the visitors in Scotland, and the hope 
that their " pilgrimage " would tend to many private 
fraternal friendships, and to the benefit of the craft 
throughout the universe. Brother Smith made a 
very happy i"eph^, enumerating the many invitations 
they had received since the idea of their trip across the 
Great Pond first oozed out, and the kindly, enthnsiastic 
manner in which those already implemented had' been 
fnlfilled. He trusted that these meetings would be like 
ripples on the water, which would ever increase, and 
would still be growing after their return to America. In 
concluding, lie proposed " The Grand Lodge of Scot- 
land," and that toast was drank with all honors, 
including what the Americans styled a " skj^-rocket." 
Brother Hay acknowledged the toast, and expressed the 
pride with which they found at Grand Lodge representa- 
tives from the most of the Grand Lodges of all America, 
He trusted that their brethren would appreciate the 
welcome now given them by Scottish Masons, would 
appreciate Scottish hospitality, and also Scottish whiskey, 
although there did not happen to be any of it on the table. 



250 Crusade to Europe 



(Applause and laughter.) Brother Dr. Morris proposed 
" The music and poetry of Freemasonry,'' and in the 
course of his speech remarked that nothing had ever 
surprised him more when he began to study the subject 
than to find that while they had in their order such men 
as Scott, Ferguson, James Hogg, and Tom -Moore, and 
many other writers, none of them, with the exception of 
Burns, had ever vrritten a single line of Masonic verse. 
How Scotland's great poet and novelist. Sir Walter 
Scott, could have written so much poetry as he did, and 
never have found anything in the symbols and ceremo- 
nies of Masonry to write about was marvelous to him — 
(Hear, hear) — and he thought sometimes that these 
portions of his works must have been suppressed. In 
conclusion, Dr. Morris recited some verses ,of his own, 
which were afterwards excellently sung by Brother Slack, 
and were much admired. Brother Mackersey next pro- 
posed " The Grand Lodges of America." He remarked 
that there was one in every State, and that all of them 
were in a most flourishing condition, and were conducted 
in a most creditable manner. He expressed towards 
them the best wishes of the brethren in Scotland, and 
the hope that mutual good feeling would long continue, 
and would be cemented by many such meetings as the 
present. Brother Major Moreland replied in an eloquent 
address, in the* course of which he said he had no doubt 
that when they went back to America they would give to 
each country visited by them that niche in their 
memory and that part in their hearts which such acts of 
hospitality as they were now receiving so richly and 



OF Allegheny Commanuery. 251 

warmly warranted them in assigning. Brother R. S. 
Brown then gave " The Masonic Literature of America," 
in replying for which Dr. Morris referred to the position 
in Masonic literature taken by Brother D. Murray Lyon, 
and congratulated the Grand Lodge in having appointed 
him as Grrand Secretary at a time when that office was 
so anxiously looked to in America as in other parts. 
Brother Smith then proposed " The Chairman ; " the 
" Health of the Croupiers " was given from the chair ; 
and afterwards, at the close of " Auld Lang Syne," the 
company separated. Several songs were given in the 
course of the evening in excellent style, particularly by 
the American brethren, and altogether the meeting was 
voted a most successful gathering. The general 
arrangements by Brother D. Murray Lyon for the two 
receptions that have taken place this week, and the 
purveying by Brother Theim, were admirable. 

But before passing over this happy evening, happily 
spent, among happy friends and brethren, we must insert 
a remark made by a venerable and worthy brother of the 
Grand Lodge, holding a high position therein, in the 
course of his speech when he alluded to the Grand 
Lodge having tendered Mary Commander}^, No. 36, of 
Philadelphia, a reception an evening or so previous, he 
said " he thought that Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, 
had rather the nicer body of men." Oh ! now we have 
gone and done it sure. We did not intend to insert that, 
actually, but now that it is done, there is no use crying- 
over spilled milk at all. We have always had since 



252 Crusade to Europe 



childhood' the strongest kind of an inclination to make 
some person or persons angry, and we did not know a 
better place to commence than on the good nature of 
Mary Commandery. Of her members we can truthfully 
say, they are as fine a body of men as ever stepped from 
the Templar Asylum, and we know Mary, ISTo. 36, loves 
Allegheny No. 35 from the bottom of her large heart ; 
but oh, what a pity No. 35 ever made two European 
Crusades, and has been made the recipients of so much 
distinction and so many favors in Europe. Just think — 
Allegheny Commandery ahead all the time. But we 
pray thee, Mary, darling, don't be angry with us, dear ; 
it was n't Allegheny Commandery's fault made that 
brother say that. " Carlisle " was along ; that did the 
business. The worthy brother could n't help it. Don't 
take it too hard, Mary. Allegheny No. 35 can't help 
having these good things said of her. 

Next morning at 6:20 we were on our way to Melrose 
and Abbottsford — the ride thither being of a most pleas- 
ing character. On emerging from the tunnel after 
leaving the station at- Edinburgh, a view is obtained on 
the right, of Arthur's Seat, Holyrood Palace, and ruins 
of St. Anthony's Chapel. Passing Portobello and the 
grounds of Dalhousie Castle, we obtain a beautiful pros- 
pect of the Pentland Hills. All along the route we pass 
places, points and spots of historic interest, as we believe 
every inch of Scottish soil is historic at any rate. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 253 

Arriving at Melrose, our two railway carriages are 
uncoupled and switched to a side track to await our 
return from a visit to Melrose, the Abbey and Abbotts- 
ford. 

Melrose is a neat little city of some fifteen hundred 
inhabitants. In the centre of the market place is a 
stone cross bearing date of 1642, and opposite the 
King's Arms Hotel is a gabled house, of date 1635, 
where General Leslie slept on the night before the battle 
of Philliphaugh. 

The Abbey is about five minutes walk from the 
station. It was founded by David I., in 1136, but not 
completed until 1146, and we may be permitted to say 
here, for a founder of churches and monasteries, &c., 
David I. bears away the palm, as nearly all claim to have 
been founded by that religiously inclined individual. It 
was destroj^ed by the English in 1322, and four years 
later was rebuilt from a fund of £2,000, equal to 
£50,000 of the money of the present day, by King 
Robert Bruce. It is a beautiful "ruin, its style of 
magnificence entitling it to be classed among the most 
perfect work of the best age of ecclesiastical archi- 
tecture. 

In 1385 it was partially burnt by Richard II.; in 
1545 it was despoiled by Evers and Latoun ; and again 
in the same year by the Earl of Hetford. Oliver Crom- 
well amused himself a little while also by bombarding it 
from Gratton side, on the other side of the river. 



254 Crusade 'jo Europe 



The estates of the Abbey were granted by Queen 
Mary in 1566, to James Hepburn, Earl of Bothwell, by 
whose forfeiture, in 156t, they reverted again to the 
crown, and the usufruct, with the title of commendator, 
was conferred the following year upon James Douglass, 
second son to Sir William Douglass of Lochleven. Sir 
Walter Scott retains some of the lines of a popular 
satire on the monks of Melrose Abbey, which probably 
explains the reason of their mode of life being ob- 
noxious to the Reformers : 

" The monks of Mekose made fat kail 
On Fridays when they fasted ; 
And neither wanted beef nor ale, 
As long as their neighbor's lasted." 

The Duke of Buccleuch is its present custodian, and 
to him the public is indebted for its careful preservation. 
The church is in the usual form of a Latin cross, with a 
square tower in the centre eighty-four feet in heiglit. 
The entire length of the building is 258 feet, and the 
breadth of its transepts 131 feefc. 

The parts in best preservation are the choir, tran- 
sept, part of the nave and nearly the whole of the 
southern aisle. The nave is bordered by two aisles, and 
intersected by what was formerly an organ loft. In the 
right or south aisle are eight small chapels, lighted by 
richly traceried windows and supported by double flying 
buttresses. In one of the niches of these buttresses 
there is a mutilated figure of the Virgin Mary and child, 
and in another, to the e^st, a statue of St. Andrew, the 
patron saint of Scotland. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 255 

The nortli transept, beautifuil^^ lighted by a circular 
or oriel window, repreKsenting t.he crown of thorns is one 
of its beauties. The window is one of rare beauty in 
the specimen of that style of ancient art, and the late 
Sir Walter Scott alludes to it in his Lay of the Last 
Minstrel, thus beautifully^ : 

" Thou wouldst have thought some fairy hand 
Twixt poplars straight the osier wand 
In many a freakish knot had twined ; 
Then framed a spell when the work was done, 
And changed the willow wreath to stone." 

The heart of the Bruce was deposited in this place 
after the aitempt of the good Sir James of Douglass 
to carry it to the Holy Land, although the King's body 
had been interred at Dunfermline. 

Among the many curious epitaphs in the graveyard 
is the following : 

The earth goeth The earth builds 
on the earth on the earth 

Glistring like gold. Castles and touers; 

The earth goes The earth says 
to the earth to the earth 

Sooner than it wold. All shall be ours. 

Leaving this handsome old ruin, v/e found carriages 
in waiting for us, and were at once driven to Abbotts- 
ford, the abode of the wonderful poet and novelist. Sir 
Walter Scott, which is beautifull}^ situated, overlooking 
the fine sweep of the river, and all through the thick 
woods surrounding Abbottsford are winding walks 
planned and laid out by Sir Walter Scott himself. 



256 Crusade, to Euroi'E 



It is a beautifully made up building — Abbottsford — as 
almost eveiy building celebrated in ancient liistoiy have 
contributed something to its erection ; pieces from Holy- 
rood, Dunfermline, Linlithgow, and the churches of Mel- 
rose and Roslin have furnished their share. In the armory 
are collections of warlike instruments, old trophies, 
curiosities, &c., among which may be mentioned Rob 
Ro3^'s gun, Montrose's sword, the gift of Charles I., 
Grahame of Claverhouse's pistol ; pistols found in 
Napoleon's carriage after Waterloo ; Hofer's blunder- 
buss, James the Sixth's hunting flask, Roman spear 
head, thumbkins and other instruments of torture. 
Then there is the Library, the Study witli his old chair 
in which we all sat, the dining hall, &c., all full of inter- 
esting objects. The present proprietor of Abbottsford 
is J. R, Hope Scott, Esq. 

Our time being up, we hurried back to the station, 
only to find an accident had occurred somewhere along 
the railroad, and our train was some two hours late. 
Becoming hungry, we wandered back into the town, and 
James Milliken, Clinton, Fullerton, Moreland, Smith, 
the Colonel, and " Carlisle" cleared out the two bakeries 
of the village in little less than no time. Poor Mrs. 
Mifflin, delicate as she was, had gotten about halfa- 
crown's worth " cookies," and was sitting all by her 
little lone self, getting away with them. Poor Mrs. M.! 
how our hearts went out to her in her being so delicate I 
We spoke of the same in a former letter. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 257 

Finally, the train came along, the Knights of Sub- 
mission business was reopened more vigorously than 
ever before ; Mrs. Slack, our mother, sat up two nights 
endeavoring to rebuild the Doctor's duster, and at 6 P. 
M. we arrived in Leeds, in " Merrie Old England," two 
hours and a half late, in which we were sadly disap- 
pointed, as Leeds Priory had called a special conclave 
at a special hour, that we might be received in open 
Priory, as will be seen by the following orders issued by 
the officers of Leeds Priory: 

FIDELITY PRECEPTORY 



Royal and United Religious and Military Orders of the 
Temple and Malta. 

Sir Knight S. E. SEANOR, E. P. 

Dear Sir Knight : 

An emergency meeting will be held on Friday, the 26th 
inst., at 5:30 P. M., at the Fidelity Rooms, Carlton Hill, Leeds, at 
which the members of Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, Knights 
Templar, of Pennsylvania, America, will be present. 

A banquet will be given by the Preceptory to the American 
visitors at the Great Northern Hotel, Leeds, at eight o'clock, to which 
you are invited to be present, and may introduce a lady. Tickets for 
which may be obtained of myself, 29 Bond Street, not later .than 
Thursday, the 25th inst. 

I am, dear Sir Knight, 

Fraternally yours, 

J. J. BOSWELL, 18O, 

Regis t7'ar. 

Q 



258 ■ Crusadte to Europe 



As stated, owing to our arriving late, we could not 
visit their Priory, much as we desired to do so ; so barber 
shops were hunted down, barbers made wealthy, and at 
8 P. M. we were escorted to the Grreat Northern Hotel, 
where we received another reception, the most recherche 
affair we had the pleasure of attending. 

Every arrangement was so complete, a drawing-room 
had been set apart for a cloak-room, and the spaciou s 
dining-hall, with its rows of tables covered with beau- 
tiful white linen and decorated in the highest style, and 
being so profusely and richl}^ laden with the luxuries 
spread upon them, it was a most beautiful sight. It 
was a full dress reception, the gentlemanly Knights of 
Leeds Priory being accompanied, and the occasion 
graced, by the wives, daughters, and most beautiful 
ladies of Leeds. A very handsomely gotten up menu was 
prepai'ed , and the following toasts printed upon the other 
side was in each plate : 

BANQUET, JULY 26th, 1878. 
I. Her Gracious Majesty, the Queen. 
II. The President of the United States. 

III. The Grand Patron of English and the Most Eminent 

Commander of American Knights Templar. 

IV. To All Eminent Knights Templar and Freemasons of 

Every Grade. 
V. Our American Visitors. 
VI. The Ladies. 

During the banquet these toasts were severally 
announced from the chair "by Eminent Sir Samuel E. 
Seanor, the E. P. of Fidelity Preceptory, and responded 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 259 



to by the various persons amioiinced to respond to each. 
Kind words of welcome and congratulation came from 
the speakers. The order of toasts being " Her Most 
Gracious Majesty the Queen," " The President of the 
United States," " The Grand Patron of English and the 
Most Eminent Commander of American Knights Tem- 
plar," " To all Eminent Knights Templar and Free- 
masons of every grade," " Our American Visitors," and 
" The Ladies," the latter being responded to by our 
Captain-General, Sir William C. Moreland. From his 
wonderful vocabulary of language, and in his beautiful 
oratory, was paid a lovely tribute to women in general — 
the ladies of Leeds — those present in particular. How 
kind those good fraters of Leeds were, none but those 
who participated in their hospitality on that occasion 
can know ; and though years may roll round, and should 
many such occasions be enjoyed, never will the memory 
of that pleasant and happy evening be forgotten. Of 
one thing we are positive, that never shall we forget the 
hospitality, the hearty welcome, the knightly and 
friendly greeting of Sir Samuel Seanor and his good 
wife, and the kind and beautiful face of his charming- 
daughter, our vis-a-vis on that evening, and our newly 
made but warm friend, J. Smiley Coey, Esq.; and 
as, since our pleasant visit to Leeds, venerable father 
Time has wrought happy changes in that assembly, 
so that our charming lady friend, the daughter of 
Eminent Sir Seanor is now the loving wife of our friend 
Mr. Coey, may we be permitted to wish in these lines, 
their lives to be long spared to each other, to go 



26o Crusade to Europe 



through this world with the ver}'- smallest portion of 
life's sorrows allotted to mankind as their share, and 
ever may their love be pvire as the mountain air, clear 
and sparkling as the dewdrop, touched by the kisses of 
the glad morning sunbeam upon the leaf, and as refresh- 
ing as the cold mountain stream trickling from its 
hidden fountain in the rocks, is our earnest prayer and 
hearty wish. 

At 11 P. M. we returned to our hotel, bade our 
friends good-bye, and the "Quartette" were soon comfort- 
ably ensconced in a decent car, known to us as a " Pull- 
man Drawing-Room Sleeping Car," and, oh ! how we 
enjoyed meeting a good old friend — a genuine, real Pull- 
man Sleeper. Our berths being made up, we were soon 
fast in the " arms of Morpheus," to awaken at 7 A . M. in 
the Midland Grand Depot and Hotel in the great city of 
London, where we arrived at the appointed hour. On 
that day our company was to be in part broken — the 
" Quartette" was then and there to be finally split and 
separated. Before leaving England for the Continent, 
we can see — on looking back over our trip through Ire- 
land, Scotland and England — in our receptions at these 
various places a cool, calm and premeditated determina- 
tion on the part of our f raters of the Old World to 
massacre us in and under the guise of kindness. It was 
nothing but " come and eat," " come and eat," from the 
time we landed till the time we left ; a pure case of 
attempt at murder by gorging, either for vengeance on 
the party of 18tl for having such men as Judge Heath, 



OF Allegheny Commander y. 261 

Judge Sholes, Senator Rambo, &c., along, who had 
eaten them nearly out of house and home on that 
crusade, or to deter other bodies from maldng a similar 
pilgrimage in another year ; and that our readers may 
judge of the way we were feasted, a few comparisons in 
weights will sufficiently prove. The Doctor at New 
York, one hundred and ten pounds, at London, two hun- 
dred and ten ; the Major, at New York, one hundred 
and thirteen and a quarter pounds, at London, one 
hundred and ninety- six pounds fourteen ounces; ihe 
Colonel, at Utah, ninety-six pounds ten ounces, at Lon- 
don, two hundred and twenty-six pounds, seven and a 
half ounces ; Jacob Laucks, Esq., at New York, one 
hundred and fourteen pounds, at London, forty-seven 
pounds. (We can only account for loss in the latter 
case from his excessive noise and boisterousness.) 
" Carlisle," at New York, one hundred and forty-four 
pounds, at London, one hundred and fifty. (It will be 
observed in this case that six pounds in addition to 
" Carlisle's" weight would be a bona fide increase, and 
no gorging there.) These will do as instances, and we 
dread giving additional ones. The day we arrived in 
London we spent in sight-seeing, and as the Doctor and 
" Carlisle" were pressed for time, we could not take all 
of the tour as laid down for the party for the Continent, 
so we booked as fellow-travelers from London alone, 
and as we came back to London before sailing for home, 
we will see what is to be seen there. At 8 P. M. we 
bade good-bye to all in our party, not without regret, 
for we had many of us met as strangers but were part- 



262 Crusade to Europe 



ing now as friends. We could not prevent the ladies of 

the party falling upon our necks and . "Well, it's 

all right, we won't tell the rest. Mrs. M., of Philadel- 
phia, did n't fall on us, however, for this trip would have 
been an unwritten history, so far as " Carlisle" or the 
Doctor were concerned, forever. Our recollections of 
all are most pleasant. True, every one has their little 
peculiarities — who hasn't? we have, we know — but 
these can be all overlooked ; and we say again, that 
there never could have been thirty-eight persons more 
congenial and gentlemanly towards each other than were 
those of the Pilgrimage Party of Allegheny Com- 
mandery during 18T8. To each one belongs more or 
less of the many pleasant days we all enjoyed together ^ 
and to each one we are indebted for his or her share of 
the pleasure during the crusade. On this point we will 
have something more to say a few pages further on in 
this work. 

As stated, at 8 P. M. the Doctor and " Carlisle" took 
train — two fellow-travelers alone now — for j^ewhaven, 
Dieppe and Paris, and a royal good trip we did have. 




OF Allegheny Commandery. 263 



A Saturday Night's Ride to Paris. — The T-wo Pilgrims 
in Paris. — Meeting of Friends in Cologne. — Acci- 
dent on the Rhine.— Bingen. — Mayence. — Heidle- 
berg. — Bale. — Lake Lucerne. — Brunig Pass and 
Brienz Valley. — Interlaken. — Berne. — Martigny to 
Ohamouny, over the Tete-Noire. — Geneva. — To 
London. — Incidents by the Way. 

ll^E were now " two poor and weary pilgrims '^ 
traveling alone, all by their own little and 
big selves and going into a country and 
countries, where the inhabitants "thereof could speak 
their language in a much more proper and refined man- 
ner than could either of the aforesaid pilgrims, for 
neither of them could speak or understand one word of 
the French language. 

Owing to the hour, darkness soon interrupted our 
seeing the country through which we were passing, so 
conversation was our pleasant pastime, and reflection of 
the many new friends and acquaintances made during 
the past three weeks, and the incidents transpiring, as 
related iu our past letters. 



264 Crusade to Europe 



In our compartment were two ver^^ pleasant and 
entertaining English gentlemen, who gave us much valu- 
able information. With us also was a gentleman clad in 
navy-blue uniform, with gilt buttons, wearing a gondola 
hat, around which was a band lettered in gold, " Tourist 
Agent." We found him to be a conductor for that firm 
taking over a regular Saturday evening excursion to 
Paris, consisting of about four hundred persons. From 
him also we derived much important information, par- 
ticularly the Doctor, he being compelled to carry out the 
" Colonel's '' part of the programme — arranging and 
keeping the " itmerary " so faithfully executed by our 
friend of Appomattox fame. 

Just prior to our arrival at Newhaven, Mr. Con- 
ductor Tourist gave us the valuable hint that, owing to 
the heavy train, some difficulty might ensue on our ar- 
rival at Newhaven in securing a berth on the Channel 
steamers ; but as he knew all the ropes, b}'' following 
him we might obtain an advantage over the rest ; and 
one thing we might say here : an Englishman is away 
behind on taking up hints and dodging into places satis- 
factory to his own comfort. 

It may be mean, and an evidence of a small spirit, 
but it is infinitely more pleasure to lay on the broad of 
your back in a berth, and hear two or thi-ee dozen men 
who have been " left " swear for an hour or so, and then 
have to lay out on the open deck, than it is to do the 
swearing and lay on the deck yourself. Oh ! how much 
sweeter is the sleep, how much softer the bed, how re- 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 265 



freshing the repose, with two or three growling around 
for some place to lay their wearj?- heads, and yourself 
ensconced snugly in the "last berth to be had." How 
much more pleasure is it, though, to have this satisfaction 
when a full-blooded Londoner has been "squeezed out,'' 
you know; "it's perfectly scandalous, you know;'' 
" ought to be reported to the Times, you know." We 
never have before nor since felt in any way under such 
deep and lasting obligations to anyone, as we have 
done towards that " Tourist Conductor." He was 
taking a regular Saturday night excursion to Paris, 
to spend the Sunday in that " City of all the World," 
and in his party alone were three hundred persons, 
and we presume there were as many as three times 
that number on the train not in the excursionist 
group, and but for our singular good luck, we should 
have had a very slim chance of sleeping comfortably 
on a bed for that night. 

The people swarmed into the boats as flies would 
to New Orleans molasses spread on the Colonel's head, 
and found the Doctor occupying two berths, and the 
rest all gone, then did n't the Yankees catch some dash 
blessings; but when our master-stroke had been learned, 
a fearful outburst of applause went up from those two 
boats. It got noised abroad, and rumor was current 
that Disraeli and Bismarck and Gortschakoff and Schou- 
valofT and Wm. M. Evarts, were aboard ; and unaware 
of the distinction we were thus receiving. We went look- 
ing for some of these celebrated personages, when we 



266 Crusade to Europe 



found the whole crowd following us, and of course, 
clapped our hands on our pocket-book and watch at 
once. The President of the railway and one or two 
owners of the boats were on board, and requested an 
interview, which we condescendingly granted, an offer 
of a few hundred thousand a year was offered, but 
we begged leave to remind them that an editor's chair 
was vacant, thousands and thousands of constituents 
in subscribers were awaiting our return, and the enor- 
mously lucrative position of editor was not to be 
bribed or incautiously led away by the offer of a few 
paltry hundred thousands offered by some petty English 
lords. We have no recollection of ever having seen 
such a crush and scrambling and jamming as on that 
occasion. It was all " big I and little you," and in 
that particular instance " might was right and did 
prevail." Soon after the boat left the pier, we found 
it very dark, and a heavy fog coming down, which 
made it exceedingly unpleasant, aside from the uncom- 
fortable crowding of the decks, so we retired to our 
berths, and soon were fast asleep, not knowing, how- 
ever, on closing our eyes, at what hour, as we crossed 
that dreaded channel, we would be called upon to- 
go up on deck and take an astronomical view, or 
look upon the brilliant phosphorescence ; but we didn't 
require to, fortunately, and so slept soundly on, dream- 
ing of dear ones at home. About 6 A. M., we awoke 
, I'efreshed, and looked around first for our care — for 
such the Doctor had now become ; for at any of our ban- 
quets where a Commandery member did not eat, the 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 267 

Doctor, as the Eminent Commander, had to do it for 
him, consequently, " Carlisle," from his legitimate in- 
crease in weight, had to manage now for the Doctor. 
Well, we looked around and could n't see the Doctor; 
we arose and made for the deck, and after threading 
our way among .people spread out as though to dry, 
and tin pans and pails, and tubs, and so on, we came 
across our old friend, actually sitting on a camp-stool. 
There he sat, poor fellow, pale and emaciated, and an 
explanation is hardly necessary, we think ; he had been 
up during the night, taking an astronomical observa- 
tion, gazed upon the phosphorescence, and what else 
no man save himself knows. 

Soon we were landed at Dieppe, and they run 
their trains on the " accommodation " plan from Dieppe 
to Paris. We were informed a train would leave at 
1:45 ; so, after partaking of our first French break- 
fast, and paying the woman two sous for the privilege 
of washing our hands, we adjourned, to find written 
on the blackboard, " Train will leave at 11:45." Rather 
annoyed at this delay, we took a stroll the little and 
uncleanly town of Dieppe, on that beautiful Sunday 
morning. 

All our conversations were conducted somewhat on 
the pantomime order, as our foreign and French brethren 
carried on a marvelous conversation with their hands, 
feet, shoulders and heads, while we as intelligently kept 
up any interesting conversation in which we were 
engaged by saying continuously and simply, " Oui," 
" Oui," " Oui," and yawning rather broadly ; only this 
and nothing more. 



Crusade to Europe 



The stores were all open. In front of the " green- 
grocer's " stood the baskets of cabbage, lettuce, spinach, 
&c., while the enterprising dry-goods merchant "flung 
to the breeze '' his display of calicoes, flannels, pant 
stuffs, &c., across the hooks in front of his door as 
busily as we good people of Allegheny would do on our 
Saturday or Monday ; while, passing the shops, were the 
more religious, prayer-books in hand, wending their 
peaceful way to their places of worship, returning from 
which they would stop in and make their purchase of a 
" couple of yards of five-cent calico " or a spool of " 0. 
N". T." cotton, as do our good folkS during the week. 
At 11:45, however, we took train for Paris, and enjoyed 
a delightful ride through that beautiful country, not- 
withstanding the intense heat of the day. 

Reaching the " City of the World " about 3:30, on 
alighting from the cars we were immediately taken by 
the hand by our old friend and Sir Knight of Allegheny 
Comniandery, William A. May, Esq., who conducted us 
to a carriage in waiting for us, and thence to our hotel, 
where two choice rooms had been secured for us. A 
wash, and we were off to one of the many handsome 
stores open, to purchase a chapeau ; our genial old 
friend, Amsden, having run short a hat, had captured 
ours into his trunk, either for his own wear or for the 
benefit of a son he had left at home. Investing a 
Napoleon, we were soon taking a stroll along those mag- 
nificent boulevards ; but owing to the lateness of the 
hour in arriving, we returned for dinner, preparatory to 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 269 

seeing this wonderful city by gaslight on a very lovely 
Sabbath evening. Taking a cab, we drive to the Palais 
Royal, the former residence of Napoleon I., thence to 
the Tuileries, the Louvre, the Tuileries Gardens, and 
then out the Champs Ely sees — truly a wonderful sight, 
thousands of cabs upon this beautiful drive, with their 
little lamps burning on either side — and on looking up 
towards the Arc de Triomphe it resembles one vast 
torchlight procession, while on either side the grand 
cafes, with their millions of variegated lights, and beau- 
tiful strains coming Irom elegant bands of music, gives 
all the appearance of fairy-land. If we did not attempt 
a description of places of interest visited heretofore, 
certainly we cannot have space in this work to enter into 
one of all grandeur^ elegance and magnificence of this 
most beautiful city of cities, further than a hasty and 
casual glance. As we looked upon all the art — the out- 
come of millions upon millions expended to make Paris 
the most attractive city of the world — we could scarcely 
realize that our most earnest anticipations had been 
fully realized as we drove through its broad, spacious 
and magnificent boulevards. Months would be requisite 
to see and know Paris with all its beauties and attrac- 
tions, and we regret exceedingly to confess our time lim- 
ited us to but about one week ; but to show during that 
period our time was profitably spent, we hastily review 
some of the points of interest coming under our 
observation. 



270 Crusade to Europe 



First, securing a fincre at tlie rate of two francs or 
forty cents an hour, we drive over some of tlie " Great 
Boulevards," wliich were formed, as many of our readers 
may Ivnow, by filling up the moats around the fortifica- 
tions of Paris in 1610, during the reign of Louis XI Y., 
and on the removal of these fortifications, were laid 
these magnificent wide streets or boulevards. We stop 
at the Place de la Bastille^ where stood a castle and 
stronghold erected by Kings Charles Y. and YI., and 
through the Boulevard des Italiens to the Bourse or 
Exchange, a very handsome building surrounded by a 
series of sixty-four Corinthian columns, and being an 
imitation of the Temple of Yespasian, in the forum at 
Rome. 

At the corners stand four allegorical statues — Com- 
merce, Commercial Equity, Industry and Agriculture. 
The hall of the Bourse is opened at twelve o'clock, and is 
soon crowded with eager men seeking to make a stroke 
of money, while in front of the building are numberless 
carriages awaiting the return of their owners, and from 
the hour of opening until three o'clock, the hour of 
closing, it is a scene of wild excitement which would 
make our lively Oil Exchange of Oil City a place of 
Quaker meeting in comparison. The building cost 
8,149,000 francs. 

Then we go to the Opera House, the most magnifi- 
cent edifice of the kind in the world, erected at an 
estimated cost of 6,000,000 francs, but when finished 
cost just four times that amount. It covers nearly three 



OF Al.l.KGHKNY COMMANDER V. 27 I 

acres of ground, was designed by Grarnier, from com- 
petitive plans from the most eminent arcliitects of 
Prance. Tlie government contributes 800,000 francs 
per annum towards its support. Nothing can equal, 
certainly' not surpass its elegance, grandeur and mag- 
nificence, being built from green and red granite from 
Sweden and Scotland, yellow and white marbles from 
Italy, red porphyry from Finland, •' brocatello" from 
Spain, and other marbles from various parts of France. 
The finest works of art adorn it in statuary, paint- 
ings, &c., on every hand, such as statues of music, 
Ij'ric poetry, idyllic poetry, declamation, song, lyric 
drama, dance, with medallion busts of Bach, Pergolese, 
Haydn, Cimarosa, Mozart, Beethoven, Spontini, Auber^ 
Rossini, Meyerbeer, and Halevy. The steps are of 
white marble and the hand-rail formed of Algerian 
Onyx. The magnificent and curiously shaped chandelier 
contains three hundred and forty burners, and as seen 
from below presents the appearance of a crown of 
pearls. The stage is one hundred and ninety-six feet in 
height, one hundred and seventy-eight feet in width, 
and seventy-four feet in depth. At the back of the 
stage is the Ball Room, the end of which is formed 
by a mirror twenty-three feet in width and thirty-three 
feet in height, the largest ever made. 

In the Grand Foyer ^ in large medallions above the 
door are groups of children carrying musical instruments, 
which are intended as emblems of the music of different 
nations. The cymbals refer to the Persians, the lyre 



272 Crusade to Europe 

and double flute to the Greeks, the horn, shell and tuba 
to the Romans, the organ to the Germans, the castanets 
and guitar to the Spaniards, the drum and cornet to the 
French, the harp to the English, the tambourine and 
mandoline to the Italians, the psaltery, sistrum and 
tintinnabulum to the Egyptians, and the triangle and 
darabuka to the barbarian races. Every nook and 
corner has its statue or emblem, representing some 
person or object alluding to or contributing to the cause 
of the erection of this truly magnificent structure. The 
building is fire-proof, iron used entirely in place of any 
timber, but it narrowly escaped desti'uction in 1811, 
when it was used by the communists as a magazine for 
gunpowder and other munitions of war. 

The Column Vendome is an imitation of Trajan's col- 
umn at Rome, one hundred and fortj'-two feet in height, 
and thirteen feet in diameter. The total weight of bronze 
employed in its construction is 1,800,000 pounds, sup- 
plied by twelve hundred cannons taken during a cam- 
paign of three months. It was erected by order of 
Napoleon I., in 1806, to commemorate his victories over 
the Russians and Austrians in 1805. The statue of Na- 
poleon, which occupied the summit, was melted down by 
the Royalists in 1814, and the metal employed in casting 
the equestrian statue of Henri IV., on the Pont Neuf. 
Subsequently, in 1831, Louis Phillippe caused a new 
statue to be cast of the metal of guns captured at 
Algiers and to be placed on the summit. This was 
again removed in 1863, and replaced by a statue of the 



)F Al.I.KGHKNY CoMMANDERY. 273 



emperor in Roman costume, executed by Dumont. May 
16tli, 1811, the Commune pulled down the column, to 
the outer gallery of which the tri-colored flag of France 
was attached, in order to mark its downfall and the 
triumph of the insurrectionary red colors. Nothing 
was left standing but the pedestal, a master-piece of 
composition, twent3^-one feet in height, and twenty in 
breadth. But the fragments of the column were 
fortunately saved, and employed in the reconstruction 
of the magnificent monument. 

The Madeleine or Church of St. Mary Magdalene is 
our next object, and here we saw the congregation at 
communion, and without any disrespect intended to any 
one, we saw the pastor of the flock literally carry out 
the spii'itual command, " Drink ye all of it," as he filled 
the goblet to participate in the Holy Communion, and he 
did drink all of it, if the bottom side of the goblet 
turned up while to his lips is any indication. 

This splendid edifice was commenced in the reign of 
Louis XV. The Revolution fourid the building incom- 
pleted, and the works were suspended. It was restored 
to the uses of religion during the Restoration, and was 
completed in 1842. The carvings over the entrance in 
front are from the chisel of Lemaire, and represent the 
Last Judgment. The exterior of the edifice, with its 
fifty -two columns and its square form, rather resembles 
a Greek temple than a Catholic church. The niches in 
the walls contain statues of saints especially revered in 
France, all by modern sculptors. The church is 



274 Crusade to Europe 



approached by a flight of twenty-eight steps, occupying 
the entire breadtli of the edifice. Tlie bronze doors are 
adorned with illustrations of the ten commandments, 
designed by Triqueti, and deserve especial notice. The 
interior is gorgeously gilded and ornamented with paint- 
ings by the most celebrated contemporary artists. Notice 
should be taken of the grand altar, the two handsome 
vases for holy water, the fonts, and the groups by Rude 
and Pradier. The light is unfortunately insufficient to 
display these fine groups to advantage. When the 
principal door and gate are closed, access may be 
obtained by the entrances on the eastern and western 
sides of the church. 

In May, IStl, the insurgents had constructed one of 
their most formidable barricades across the Rue Royale, 
opposite to, and within a short distance of the Madeleine. 
The appalling scene enacted here on May 22d and 23d, 
baffles description. The houses in the Rue Royale which 
escaped destruction by fire were literall}'' riddled with 
shells and bullets, but the church, owing to its massive 
construction, suffered comparatively little. This fearful 
battle ended in the Versailles army driving the Com- 
munists, after much loss on both sides, from their barri- 
cade. Three hundred of the insurgents, closely pursued 
by their enemies, sought refuge in the sacred edifice; 
the troops soon forced an entrance, and suipfered not one 
of their victims to escape alive. 



OF Allegheny Commandkry. 275 



The Palais Royal^ was erected in 1629 by Cardinal 
Richelieu, and originally was named by that personage 
the Palais Cardinal. It was occupied after his death 
by Anne of Austria, the widow of Louis XIII., with her 
two sons, Louis XIV. and Philip of Orleans. The 
garden is in the centre of the building, and is in a 
parallelogram form ; a fountain stands in the middle, 
and there is a double row of trees round it. The cov- 
ered promenade is very convenient during rainy weather, 
being in the shape of an arcade, all arched and covered 
over. A military band usually plays between five and 
six o'clock on fine evenings, in the middle of the garden. 
On May 22d, 1871, the Communists set the Palais 
Royal on fire, and the entire south wing, including most 
of the apartments in the Gour d^ffonneur, with the ex- 
ception of the south-western corner, became a prey to 
the flames, and was almost entirely destroyed. Had the 
galleries, with their attractive shops, been destroyed, 
the loss would have been incalculable. 

The Palace has since been restored, the apartments 
being used now by the Conseil d'Elat, and are not 
shown to the public. 

Now we come to Paris' pride and most important 
public building, the Louvre, and said to derive its name 
from an ancient hunting chateau called the Louverie. 

The Palace was originally destined for the reception 
of foreign, monarchs during their sojourn in the French 
capital. In 1528, Francis I. pulled down the old building 



276 Crusade to Europe 



in order to replace it by a new edifice, which was 
finished in the reign of his son Henry II., the sculptures 
which adorned it being the work of the celebrated Jean 
Goujon. 

The older part of the Louvre has been the scene of 
many historical events. On August 19th, 15'72, the mar- 
riage of the Princess Margaret of Valois with Henri 
IV., was solemnized here, most of the Huguenots being 
present on that occasion. Five days later, on the 
twenty-fourth of August, the signal was given for the 
massacre of the Huguenots. 

A part of the modern structure was erected by the 
order of Louis XIV.; and it was during the life of this 
monarch that the superb eastern facade facing the 
church of St. Germain I'Auxerrois was executed after 
the designs of Claude Perrault. This masterpiece of 
architecture yields in nothing to the most beautiful 
productions of antique art. 

The building was neglected after the death of Louis 
XIV. In 1805, Napoleon I. caused the whole of the 
Louvre buildings to be thoroughly restored, with a con- 
necting gallery between the Tuileries and the Louvre. 

That side of the Louvre whicli faces the river is 
decorated with some most admirable carvings, and the 
pavilions of Rohan and Lesdiguieres are marvellous 
instances of the power of the sculptor's chisel, while the 
innumerable monumental statues which decorate the 
building on every side are truly worth}^ of the place they 
occupy. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 277 



On the night of the 23d of May, 18T1, the insurgents 
of the Commune entered the Louvre and set fire to the 
premises. Although the most precious chefs d^oeuvre 
had been sent to Brest for safety before the siege of 
1810, a valuable collection, comprising upwards of 90,000 
volumes and a number of rare and interesting MSS. 
were entirely destroyed by the flames. It would take 
volume after volume to enumerate and describe the 
contents of the Louvre, which contains collections from 
the brushes and chisels of renowned artists dating back 
to the sixteenth century, and a person could linger and 
loiter about the spacious passages and galleries of the 
Louvre for weeks and never tire of its wonderful arts 
and beauties. 

The Tuileries on the opposite side of the vast 
square between the Louvre and the Tuileries dates from 
the reign of Henri IL in 1589. 

JSTo edifice in Paris is so rich in historical associa- 
tions as the Tuileries, and none, with the single 
exception of the Hotel de Ville, has ever been overtaken 
by so terrible a fate. On August 10th, 1192, after a 
fierce contest, the palace was taken by ' storm by an 
infuriated populace, and its defenders, consisting of a 
number of French nobles, one thousand Swiss guards 
and twenty-six officers, one hundred domestics of the 
palace, and two hundred national guards, mercilessly 
butchered. On July 29th, 1830, the Tuileries was again 
captured, and the furniture plundered or destroyed. 
But Louis Phillippe reinstated it in great splendor, and 



278 Crusade to Europe 

was in it when the Revolution of 1848 took place. 
Although there were abundance of troops to defend the 
palace, he preferred leaving it, and made his escape 
through the gardens. The capture of the palace was 
succeeded by the most frightful scenes of devastation. 
The royal carriages and furniture were burned in the 
courtyard, and the throne was carried to the Place de la 
Bastille and burnt also. 

On May 20th, 1871, the Communists, aware of their 
desperate position and impending destruction, deter- 
mined at one of their secret meetings to wreak their 
revenge on the ill-fated city by setting all the principal 
public buildings on fire. The prelude to the appalling^ 
scene which ensued consisted in placing combustibles 
soaked with petroleum, and barrels of gunpowder in the 
buildings doomed to destruction. The Tuileries was one 
of the first edifices subjected to this fearfully compre- 
hensive and diabolical scheme. It was set on fire in a 
number of different places on the 22d May, the day 
after the Yersailles troops had obtained an entrance into- 
the city, but before they had gained possession of the 
palace. The confiagration soon assumed the most terri- 
ble dimensions, and all attempts to extinguish it were 
entirely fruitless. The whole of the western side of the 
palace facing the Jardin des Tuileries, and the pavilion 
on the north side next to the Rue de Rivoli,. were 
reduced to a gigantic heap of sm,ou.ldering ruins, after- 
burnino; three davs and nights. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 279 

In the square stands the Arc De Triomphe du Car- 
oussel, erected by order of ISTapoleon I. to commemorate 
his victories qf 1805 and 1806. It is fortj^-eight feet in 
height, sixty-three and a half in width, and twenty-one 
feet in thickness, flanked by Corinthian columns of red 
marble and with bases and capitals in bronze. On the 
marble entablature above tlie columns, in front and at 
the back, are placed marble statues representing the 
soldiers of the Empire, in the uniforms of their different 
corps; and on the four faces are marble reliefs, repre- 
senting battles, &c., of the Imperial period. The arch 
was originally surmounted by the four bronze horses 
from the Basilica of St. Mark, at Venice ; these, how- 
ever, were restored to Venice in 1814, and have been 
replaced by a female figure in a chariot, designed to 
represent the Restoration. 

The Place de la Concorde is the most beautiful place 
in the city, if not in the world. On the spot now 
occupied by the Obelisk, the guillotine was erected tor 
the execution of Louis XVI. on January 21st, lt93. 
After a brief removal to the Place du Carrousel, the 
guillotine was again raised here, and more than 2,800 
individuals were sacrificed to the bloodthirsty savages of 
nQS. Among those who terminated their career upon 
this awful spot were Charlotte Gorday, the courageous 
patriot ; Brissot, chief of the Girondins ; Marie Antoi- 
nette, the beautiful queen ; Philippe Egalite, Duke 
d'Orleans ; Madame Roland, whose dying words were: 
" Oh, Liberty ! what crimes are committed in th}^ name!" 
Hebert ; Danton ; Camille Desmonlins ; Chaumette ; 
Madame Elisabeth, sister of Louis XVI. ; Robespierre ; 
St. Just; and hundreds of the French nobilit}-. 



28o Crusade to Europe 



The Obelisk now in the Place de la Concorde orna- 
mented the palace of the kings of Eg^^pt, at Thebes, 
about 1,500 years before the Christian era, and was a 
gift of Mehemet Ali, Pacha of Egypt, to the French gov- 
ernment, at the same time that he gave a similar one to 
the English (the Cleopatra Needle.) The expenses en- 
tailed by the transport to Paris and elevation of the 
obelisk in its present position amounted to two millions 
of francs, and as the obelisk is 500,000 lbs. in w^eight, 
the stone of which it consists has cost four francs per 
pound ! The pedestal on which it stands is a single 
block of grey granite from the quarries of Laber, in Brit- 
tany, weighing 240,000 lbs. Upon the northern side of 
this pedestal is represented the apparatus emploj'ed in 
the removal and embarkation of the beautiful Egyptian 
relic, and on the southern side that used in raising it iu 
position. The obelisk itself is a magnificent monolith, a 
monument of solid, reddish granite, and is inscribed with 
three rows of deep, sharply cut, and well-preserved hier- 
oglyphics on each side. On either side of this prodigi- 
ous stone is a fountain executed in the best taste. 

The eight statues placed round the Place de la Con- 
corde represent the eight principal towns of France — 
Lyons, Marseilles, Bordeaux, Nantes, Rouen, Brest, Lille 
and Strasburg, the latter now, however, belonging to 
their beloved neighbors the Germans. 

The Champs Elyseea is a magnificent avenue, one of 
the most fashionable promenades of Paris, and flanked 
by the most handsome buildings, and presents a most 



OF Allegheny Commandeky. 281 

striking- and animated appearance say from three to six 
o'clock, when elegant equipages and noble horses, with 
their elegantly attired and fashionable occupants and 
riders are on their way to and from the Bois de Bologne. 

On this avenue are the Palais de VElysee which has 
been the residence of Madame de Pompadour, a 
government printing office, ball rooms, gaming tables, 
■occupied b}^ Murat, Napoleon 1., Louis Bonaparte, Em- 
peror Alexander I., of Russia, and so on, and was the 
residence of President McMahon ; also the Palais de 
P Industrie, and proceeding out to the end of the Champs 
Elysees, we come to the Arc de Triomphe de I'Etoile, 
the most imposing structure of the kind in existence. 
It stands on a slight eminence and is visible from almost 
any part of the city. From this magnificent and tri- 
umphal arch diverge twelve different avenues, in star 
shape. It is a handsome arch, costing ten millions of 
francs, is one hundred and sixty feet in height, one hun- 
dred and forty-six in width and seventy-two feet in 
depth, and was one of four triumphal arches Napoleon I. 
determined to erect in commemoration of his victories, 
but he accomplished but two. We would fail to even 
attempt a description of its wonderful traceries, the hand 
of the chisel in its carvings of those unusually handsome 
representations of important points in the first Napo- 
leon's career. 

The famous Bois de Bologne, formerly a forest 
abounding in game, the resort of duelists, persons 
inclined to suicide, garroters and midnight marauders, 
is now a beautiful park containing twenty-two hundred 
and flftv acres. 



282 Crusade to Europe 



The Hotel de Ville, or town hall of Paris, is in utter 
ruin, having been burned to the ground by the blood- 
thirsty Communists on May 24th, 18tl, including a 
librar}^ of over 100,000 volumes, and an incalculable loss 
in the destruction of a great many very important public 
documents. We are informed that the ball and reception 
rooms on the first floor of this once interesting building 
were so gorgeously and magnificently fitted up as to 
eclipse entirel}'^ the imperial palaces. 

We visit famous Notre Davie Gothedral, where a very 
plain and fluent English speaker gives us briskly and 
fully this old church's history. It was founded in 1163- 
and consecrated in 1182. It is one hundred and thirty- 
nine 3^ards long and fift3--two and a half j^ards broad. 
The organ in the church was built in 1T50 and enlarged 
in 1868, and has fifty -two hundred and forty-six pipes and 
eighty-six stops. The choir stalls and the reliefs in 
wood represent scenes from the history of Christ and the 
Virgin, and are marvels of wood carving. Here are 
shown mementos ot former archbishops of Paris with 
monuments to their memories ; among others the good 
archbishop Darbo}', who, it will be remembered, in 1871,. 
was confined in the Prison de la Roquette, and being 
entirely innocent and unofiending, with five others were 
taken to a place in front of the infirmary of the prison,, 
and after being subjected to gross insults from the Na- ' 
tional guards were cruelly and brutally murdered b}- the 
red-handed assassins in possession of the city at the time.- 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 283 

Then the Morgue, where are exposed from five to 
six hundred persons annually, who have either been 
drowned, or drowned themselves, and when found, are 
taken to this place, laid upon marble slabs, and their 
clothing hung above them, and their bodies kept cool 
by a constant flow of water. 

The Palais du Luxembourg was founded in 1612, 
and continued to be a royal residence down to the time 
of the Revolution. Tlie Pantheon resembles a heathen 
temple much more than a chui'ch, its form being a 
Greek cross, surmounted by a dome two hundred and 
seventy-two feet high. The Hotel des Blonnaies, or the 
Parisian Mint, is another exceedingly fine building ; on 
the ground floor are five entrance arcades, above which, 
on the first and second floors, is a handsome colonnade 
of six Ionic columns. Above the cornice are placed 
statues of Peace, Plenty, Commerce, Power, Wisdom 
and Law. The numerous glass cases in the principal 
saloon contains an interesting collection of French coins, 
arranged chronologically from the earliest times down 
to the present day, and a collection of foreign coins, 
including a Chinese coin of the year ITOO, B. C. The 
machines turn out seventy pieces of money per minute, 
while the whole of them in operation at once are capable 
of yielding two millions of francs per day. 

As we entered the Hotel des Invalides we could 
hardly lead ourselves to believe that all our anticipations 
had actually been realized ; we had read over and over 
again the life and history of the great Napoleon, the 



284 Crusade to Europe 



little Corporal, and we had sighed often and often that 
we might look upon the tomb which contains the mortal 
dust of the greatest warrior the world has ever seen. 
This building was founded in 1610, by Louis- XIV., and 
was completed in IGTS. Soldiers disabled by wounds, 
and those who have served over thirty years are ad- 
mitted to the Invalides. The Musee d'Artillerie in the 
the building contains over four thousand specimens of 
weapons of all kinds. The magnificent tomb of Na- 
poleon I. is situated beneath the dome in an open 
circular crypt, and on the mosaic pavement, which 
represents a wreath of laurels, rises the splendid sar- 
cophagus, thirteen feet long, six and a half wide and 
fourteen and a half in height, and consists of a single 
huge block of red sandstone, weighing upwards of sixty- 
seven tons, brought from Finland, and cost one hundred 
and forty thousand francs. And so we might go on, 
never tiring of the beauties of magnificent, worldly 
Paris, with its Palais Pompeien, Jardin d'Acclimata- 
tion, Russian Church, Tour St. Jacques, Churches of 
Ste Gervais and St. Eustache, Bibliotheque Nationale, 
Conservatoire des Arts, Palais de Justice, Saint Cha- 
pelle, Musee de Luxembourg, Musee de Cluny, Jardin 
des Plantes, St. Sulpice, Palais des Beaux Arts, its 
cemeteries, its parks, its fountains, its broad and 
smooth avenues, but we could not do it the justice it 
deserves ; we can only say, that we employed every 
moment of our time to the very best advantage possible, 
spending, in addition to the places previously mentioned, 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 



two days in the Paris Exposition, wliich in fine fabrics 
and fine arts excelled our own '76 Centennial, in our 
opinion, but in all the other departments we exceeded 
the French display. 

Taking a train we run out to Versailles, the seat of 
government of France, fourteen miles from the city of 
Paris, and its site is certainly anything but favorable. 
The Palace and Park cost the treasury of Louis XIV. 
the enormous sum of one thousand million francs. It is 
stated no fewer than thirty-six thousand men and six 
thousand horses were employed at one time in forming 
the terraces of the gardens and improving the parks. 

During tlie time of the unfortunate Louis XVL, the 
Palace of Versailles was sacked by a Parisian mob,^ 
largely made up of women, and ever since that time it 
has been uninhabited. From the 1 9th of September, 1870,, 
to March 6th, 1871, the palace was the headquarters of 
the King of Prussia, and a great portion of the edifice 
was used as a military hospital, the pictures having 
been carefully covered to protect them from injury. A 
most impressive ceremony in the history of Versailles 
took place there on January 18th, 1871, when the Prus- 
sian monarch, with the unanimous consent of the Ger- 
man States was saluted as the Emperor of United Ger- 
many. 

The Palace is a very plain looking building, dating^ 
from the time of Louis XIII. On the first floor are 
the apartments of Louis XIV. The Gallerie de Louis 



286 Crusade to KuRorE 



XIV. is a magnificent hall eighty yards in length and 
forty-one feet in height, and commands a beautiful view 
of the gardens. In this room King William was pro- 
claimed Emperor of Germany. In this are some most 
superb paintings by some of the most renowned artists. 

The gardens of Versailles are the finest perhaps the 
world has ever seen, and are nearly in the same condi- 
tion as when originallj'^ laid out by Le Notre, the most 
famous landscape gardener of his day. They are 
adorned with numerous statues and vases, and orna- 
Tnental sheets of water. The playing of the famous 
fountains in these gardens, which we had the pleasure 
to see, always attracts large crowds of spectators, which 
may be seen only on the first Sunday of each month 
from May to October, and costs eight to ten thousand 
francs to exhibit on every occasion, or about two thous- 
and dollars every time tlie}^ play, and this sight alone is 
almost worth the trouble and expense of crossing the 
Atlantic to witness. 

Having completed our sight-seeing in Paris, we can 
not but admire the late Emperor ISTapoleon III., who 
did so much, expended so much, and manifested such 
an interest in constantly adding to the beauties of this 
metropolis ; whatever may have been his faults, they 
should be covered up and hidden from sight, only 
thinking of the good he has done, in aiding by every 
means within his power, to please the eye of the beau- 
tiful ; and seeing all this vast wealth expended in 
magnificent buildings, in fine works of art, in elegant 



OF Allegheny Commanuery. ■ 287 



boulevards and avenues, bow an^^ mob, no matter bow 
low tbeir birtb, tbeir origin, tbeir surroundings, even 
tbougli tbe}^ be tliorougbly tutored in tbe scliool of 
crime, could become so debased in every tbing buman, 
as to commit tbe bloody work, cruel butcbery, and bigb- 
banded villainies as perpetrated by tbe Communists in 
1871, is only sometbiug at wbicb we can marvel. 

Witli deep and mucb regret we returned to our botel, 
packed our traps, paid our bills, bade our friend William 
A. May, Esq., good-bye ; and, we may sa}-, to tbat gentle- 
man we are mucb indebted for courtesies and kindness 
wbile in Paris, he liaving been tbere for almost a year in 
tbe interest ot tbe Westingbouse Air Brake Company, of 
Pittsburgh, and perfectly familiar with the cit}', what 
would necessarily have been a visit of some annoyance, 
owing to our lack of knowledge of tbe French vernacu- 
lar, was made through that gentleman one of pleasure 
and of interest. 

After a pleasant ride, on a beautiful da}', of eleven 
hours, the Doctor, and " Carlisle " were to be found in 
the city of Cologne, in good old Faderland, and in our 
rooms facing the beautiful Kliine. 

Here we bad the pleasure of meeting dear friends, Mr. 
William Semple, of Allegheny City, who was on his 
semi-annual trip to Europe, seeking a few weeks' recrea- 
tion and recuperation, and accompanied by John B. 
Main, Esq., of Glasgow, Scotland, who was hale, hearty, 
and stout, and very anxiously looking for a " rest," 



288 Crusade to Europe 



otherwise, as customary with nearly all in Britain, 
accustomed to short distance traveling, and not exactly 
up to the "pick-up-your-satcheland-run " business, Mr. 
Main was slightly fatigued, and we are prone to think 
would quite as soon have remained a day or so " resting" 
at Cologne. 

Cologne is the largest town in the Rhenish Province 
of Prussia, is one of the most important commercial 
towns in Germany, has about 136,000 inhabitants, includ- 
ing a garrison of seven thousand men. Its age anti-dates 
Roman times, for it is known that in the year A. D. 50, 
Agrippina, daughter of Germanicus and mother of Nero, 
founded a colony of Roman veterans on the site of 
Cologne, and was known as Colonia Agrippinensis. 

The Cathedral in Cologne is probably the most 
magnificent Gothic edifice in the world, it was com- 
menced in 1244, and they are still completing it, and is 
expected to be finished in about two years from this 
date. It covers 66,800 square feet of room, is sur- 
mounted by a spire now three hundred feet in height, to 
which is to be added yet two hundred and thirty-two 
feet, making it five hundred and thirty-two feet in all, 
and eighteen feet higher than the highest pyramid of 
Egypt ; its roof has some five thousand spires or 
pinnacles, the nave is one hundred and sixty feet from 
floor to ceiling, and this vast church will seat comforta- 
bly 42,500 persons. It contains the remains of many 
illustrious dead, and also very fine tombs, some of 
which were damaged by the French soldiers in 1803-t. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 289 

The largest of the bells in the tower is called the 
Kaiser glocke, which was cast in 1814 with the metal of 
French guns, and weighs twenty-five tons. Fine stained- 
glass windows adorn this magnificent building, some of 
which represent John the Baptist, Nativity, Lord's 
Supper, Death of Christ, Descent of the Holy Ghost, 
Stoning of St. 'Stephen, and one commemorating the 
elevation of Archbishop Geissel, of Cologne, to the rank 
of Cardinal. The walls behind the choir stalls are 
covered with tapestry worked by the ladies of Cologne, 
illustrative of the Nicene creed and the seven sacra- 
«nents. There are several other very fine churches in 
Cologne, but of course the Cathedral is the one of main 
interest. 

It is a singular sight early in the morning to see the 
strong, hearty, red-faced, jolly Grerman women come 
marching along — dear knows how far they have walked — 
carrying heavy baskets of marketing upon their heads, 
and as they walk rapidly on, knitting a stocking at the 
same time, their cheeks red, and bearing a glow such 
as is seldom seen in America. 

At 8:45 A. M. on a bright sunny morning we, mean- 
ing Mr. William Semple, John B. Main, the Doctor and 
" Carlisle," stepped aboard the fine steamer " Kaiser and 
Koenig Wilhelm," on the famed river Rhine, and soon 
were on our way up this beautiful stream, the pride — and 
well may it be — of the grand and good old German 
nation. A fine list of passengers were aboard, the day 
was all that could be desired, and we anticipated a day 
of rich treat and rare pleasure. 



290 Crusade to Europe 



Soon after leaving Cologne, we come in sight, on our 
left, of the Chateau Bensberg, a Prussian militarj'^ school, 
at the foot of which building stands a monument to the 
memory of two thousand Austrian soldiers who fell at 
Jemappes in 1*194, and erected by the Emperor of Aus- 
tria in 1854. On the right a little fvirther up is the sup- 
pressed Benedictine Abbey of Siegburg. Passing on up 
we came to Bonn^ frequently mentioned by Tacitus, and 
was one of the first Roman fortresses on the Rhine, and 
was probably founded by Drusus ; and at Bonn we see 
some of the most handsome residences to be seen on the 
Rhine, and passing this city we come to the most 
picturesque and famous scenery on the river. We pass 
the islands of Nonnenwerth and Grafenwerth^ on the 
former of which stands an extensive nunnery, yery 
ancient, being mentioned in a document of the twelfth 
century. The nunnery was suppressed in 1802 but was 
re-opened in 1845 as a girls' school under the auspices of 
Franciscan nuns. 

Bolandseck is the next point passed, and is one of the 
most beautiful spots on the river, surrounded hy numer- 
ous villas and pleasant gardens, chiefly belonging to 
wealthy merchants from the Lower Rhine. Here, on a 
Basaltic rock, stood Roland's Castle ; in connection with 
this is told this tradition : " The bi-ave Knight Roland, 
scouring the Rhine in search of adventure, found himself 
the guest of Count Herbert, lord of the Seven Mount- 
ains, at his castle of Drachenburg. According to 
custom the daughter of the host, the peerless Hilda- 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 291 

gimde, welcomed him with the offering of bread, wine 
and fish. Her beauty riveted the gaze of the young- 
knight, and Hildesunde and Roland were soon affianced 
lovers, but their happiness was brief. Roland was sum- 
moned by Charlemagne to the crusade. Time sped on 
and anxiously did Hildegunde await his return. But 
sad rumors came. The brave Roland was said to have 
fallen by the hands of the infidels, and the world no 
longer possessing any charm for the inconsolable Hilde- 
gunde, she took refuge in the ' kloster ' in the adjacent 
island of ISTonnenwerth. The rumors, however, of the 
death of her betrothed were unfounded. Although des- 
perately wounded he recovered, and hastened to the halls 
of Drachenburg to claim his bride ; but instead of being- 
welcomed back by her fond smile, he found that she 
was forever lost to him. In despair he built the castle, 
of which one crumbling arch remains, and there lived in 
solitude, catching -an occasional glimpse of a fair form 
passing to and fro to her devotions in the little chapel of 
the ' kloster.' At length he missed her, and soon the 
tolling of the bell and a mournful procession conveyed 
to him the heart-rending intelligence that his beloved 
Hildegunde was now indeed removed forever. From 
that moment Roland never spoke again ; for a short 
time he dragged on his weary existence, but his heart 
was broken, and one morning he was found rigid and 
lifeless, his glassy eye still turned towards the convent 
chapel." 

At every turn in the river the scenery was becoming- 
more and more interesting, new features and attractions 



292 Crusade to Europe 

were continually presenting themselves, and we were 
thoroughly intent on all the beauties now surrounding 
us and coming to view; we were now approaching 
Godesburg, situated at a point where the river expands, 
and which place is a favorite summer resort, where 
wealthy merchants of Cologne, Elberfield, and Crefeld 
have erected a number of handsome villas, surrounded by 
pleasant gardens; upon the deck of the fine steamer, friend 
sat chatting with friend ; children played lively around 
the spacious deck of the handsome steamer ; Mr. William 
Semple and John Main were away forward at; the bow 
of the boat, the Doctor was down looking over the 
railing at the beautiful working engine, and " Carlisle" 
was sitting near the stern of the boat taking notes 
and writing home. Everybod}^ was joyous, joking and 
laughing — everything around us enchanting, and, owing 
to the very swift current at this point, the engines of 
the steamer were working hard and raising steam fast — 
when suddenly, boom ! ! a loud report, followed by 
another, and steam shot away up into the air, the en- 
gineers driven out with cuts and bruises! The laugh- 
ing changed to crying, the rosiest cheeks were blanched, 
and faces were pale ; friends running to and fro seeking 
friends ; a mother screaming for her child she had 
placed to sleep in the cabin below, and no means of 
reaching it, owing to the escaping steam. " What is the 
matter ?" came from the lips of one and all. The steam 
rushed and roared, and the engineers could not get at 
the throttle-valve to shut off steam, and there we were. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 293 

in the middle of the Rhine, a strong current against us, 
a very heavy head of steam on, and it still raising 
rapidly, so much so that the magnificent boat shivered 
all over as does a person chilled, we looking every 
moment to see her blown into atoms ; but at last, by 
being wrapped in wet blankets and cloths, the engineers 
were enabled to rush in, and, shutting off steam, it was 
found she had broken her connecting rod and blown out 
a cylinder head, and when her engines were stopped, the 
broken piece of the connecting rod was revolving on her 
shaft at frightful speed. ^W this occurred in less time 
than it takes to write it, and a feeling of relief was only 
obtained when the four of us got off in a little boat, 
walked inland to the railway, and took train at once 
from the station at Godesburg for Bingen. It was quite 
an excitement, and all things considered, was a narrow 
and lucky enough escape. We cannot pass over the 
remaining portion of our tour without attempting a 
description of the wonderful beauties as nature has laid 
them down and painted them in her mountains, valleys, 
lakes and rivers, and we would not exchange the rapid 
tour of these beauties for all former visits to Britain put 
together, exclusive of this one, of course, spent among 
our many Masonic friends. 

From Godesburg to Maj^ence, of course, owing to 
the more rapid traveling by railroad than on the boat, 
and being on one side of the bank all the way up, and 
on the edge of hills, our anticipations of viewing the 
scenery of the Rhine, were from this accident to the 



294 Crusade to Europe 



' Kaiser Wilhelm' unrealized, further than the very pro- 
voking and unsatisfactory view of one side. 

Leaving Godesburg, we approach tlie Rhine's most 
interesting scenery, which attracts at once the artist's 
and tourist's eye ; on our right hand, towering away far 
above us are high hills, bare at places — but let us look 
to the left. Down through the ravine flows the swift 
running Rhine, in its beautiful bed, its banks on either 
side so rich and green ; on the far side is a lovely pic- 
turesque country, suddenly coming up against as it 
were a high mountain, and lill that the eye can take in, 
down their broad sides, are the grape vines, for which 
the Rhine country is so famous, every inch of ground 
being utilized for that cultivation, even to banking up 
the earth with walls, so as to maintain maybe a little 
patch of ground ten or twelve feet in area ; then will 
appear another mountain whose face-side slopes so 
gracefully, and from its base to its summit will be row 
upon row of terraces bearing the purple bunches of 
autumn's fruit ; occasionally the grand scenery will melt 
away and give place to some of the most lovely pic- 
turesque scenery man's eye could wish to behold ; the 
sun's rays pouring down so warmly upon the hills and 
valleys makes the looker-on an admirer of the German 
nation, makes him love those good old honest people 
more and more ; and, we say how can they help loving 
their beautiful river, guarding it jealously, and warm 
with enthusiasm sing their " Wacht am Rhine.'' No 
wonder when they heard or saw their Rhine and its 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 295 

beautiful banks about to be invaded by their grasping 
neiglibors, that the whole noble German Empire, with 
its sterling people, handsome, manly men, particularly 
their soldiers, rise en masse, and by their masterly 
education, their unapproachable discipline, filled with 
patriotism and love for what is and should be their 
pride, drove back, repulsed, and broke down a mighty 
and prosperous nation whom others had long feared. 

The scenery here is perfectly grand ; we pass on our 
right the summer residence of the Empress of Germany, 
which from our train we could barely catch a glimpse, 
and then we come to " Bingen, fair Bingen on the 
Rhine." 

Bingen is a little Hessian town of some 6,500 
inhabitants, was known to the Romans, who erected a 
castle here. During the thirty years war it was repeatedly 
captured, and totally destroyed in 1689 by the French. 
The town carries on considerable trade in wine and a 
busy river and railway traffic. 

From Bingen we proceed to Mayence, and here the 
Doctor cruelly concluded to leave " Carlisle," and at this 
point we parted company for a little while, for having 
spent all of his own money, and having begged, borrowed 
and — from us all we could advance him, he said he 
thought he would like to meet the party once more, and 
would therefore go and meet them at Brussels. We, 
poor, innocent mortal, took it all in good faith, appre- 
ciated his motives of going to shake hands with our 
companions once more, and considered it all as coming 



296 Crusade to Europe 



from the goodness of the Doctor's heart, that he would 
sacrifice the beauties of Switzerland just to greet our 
fellow travelers once more ; we wished him God speed, 
to meet him a week or so later in London. But the 
deep scheming of this gentleman was onlj?^ brought to 
light since our appointment as " Notarj^ Public" by 
Prof. Slack, Hon. J. Pred. Beilstein, the juicy beef- 
slaj^er ; James Milliken, Esq.; James Raffertj^, Esq.; 
Judge Major, Hon. W. C. Moreland, coming to our 
office to have some lengthy accounts probated against 
this dealer in " amalgam and sich," as well as letters 
from poor Mrs. Mifflin, Mrs. Frohock, Rev. 0. H. 
Brusie, Dr. Isaac Landis, Solomon McConihe, D. D., 
and many others, offering me half the claim if we could 
collect part of the sovereigns, centimes and pfennings 
he had fleeced them of in Brussels. Some offered to 
take " Dental chairs," " forceps," " double uppers," 
" half soles," or anything else, to square up accounts. 
Mayence, or Mainz, is a . strongly fortified town of 
57,000 inhabitants, with a garrison of 8,000 soldiers, 
and is historically one of the most interesting towns 
of the Rhenish provinces. In the year 14, B. C, 
Augustus sent his son-in-law Drusus to the Rhine, 
as commander-in-chief, and b}^ him was Mayence 
founded. It has a Cathedral, commenced in 9Y8, but 
was burned down in 1009. It was restored, but again 
destroyed by fire in 1081, IIST and 1191, after each of 
which occasions it was re-erected on a grander scale 
than before. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 297 



From Mayence we proceed to Heidletaerg, and 'tis 
here the beauties of an Ahnighty Creator begins to 
show His Omnipotent grandeur in nature's architec- 
ture and paintings. We approach Heidleberg on level 
ground, and taking a carriage, drive up to the top 
of the mountain, at the base and lower side of which 
is situated this beautiful town, and arrive at the Koe- 
nig's stool, through and over one of the most en- 
chanting drives, shaded over by beautiful trees, their 
branches interwoven and connected, forming a won- 
derfully fine arch of living green, and making it so 
cool, pleasant and enjoyable ; the drive winding up 
the mountain side in serpentine manner, while occa- 
sionally an opening in the trees permits us to have, 
as we might sa}^, only a tantalizing and torm en ting- 
glance at the panorama in the valley below. 

But at last we reach the summit, and oh ! what a 
sight awaits our coming. Standing in an open space, we 
look down the mighty mountain side, bearing all the 
shades of green, contrasting and harmonizing together 
as nature onlj' can arrange her bouquets, and away down 
at the base so quietly and beautifully lay the white 
houses which make the pretty village of Heidleberg, 
through which we can see its charming walks and 
trysting places, for lovers, for families, or for, any one 
who desires to sit in reverie, and take in, in an unbreak- 
ing clasp, the beauties he has seen. Raising our eyes, 
what a lovely valley we see as far as sight almost can 
carry, divided and subdivided by the various kinds of 



298 Crusade 'jo Europe 



grain in their various shades of ripening, and down 
through its centre flows the little Neckar, winding its 
narrow, serpentine path to the mother of German rivers,, 
and we are enchanted with the scene. 'Now let us move 
down the mountain side a little and we come to Heidleberg 
Castle, and having seen this castle let us see no more 
ruins bearing so formidable a name. What a grand old 
ruin, the largest and finest in all ^urope, its symmetry 
and proportions, and the beauty of its workmanship, still 
plainly visible, having stood the storms and wars of 
ages, the elegant carvings still the admiration of all and 
defying the crumbling effects of time and season ; and 
then its position, commanding a view of the entire 
valley "we have just seen, and situated directly above and 
over the town. As we sat or leaned over the balustrade 
on that beautiful summer evening and heard the music 
from a fine band at one of the hotels, wafted through 
those trees and up that valley, it had all the appearance 
of fairy-land. In the cellar of the castle is a vat or tun,, 
which held 360,000 bottles of wine, from which the 
king's jester, a dwarf, drank fifteen bottles per day. It 
wasn't a very good day for drinking, either! Where,, 
oh! where was local option in those days? EchO' 
answers — where ? 

Few towns if any can vie with Heidleberg in the 
beauties of its environs and historical interest. It con- 
tains about 22,000 inhabitants. The University is 
among the oldest in Germany, was founded in 1386, by 
Elector Rupert I., and is attended by about seven. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 299 

hundred students. The library contains upwards of 
three hundred thousand volumes, seventy thousand 
pamplxlets, eighteen hundred MSS., and fifteen hundred 
diplomas. 

Taking a " schlaf-waggon " we continue our tour, 
arriving the following morning at an early hour in the 
pretty little enterprising city of Bale^ the principal city 
of half-canton of Baleville, having a population of some 
foi'ty-five thousand inhabitants — all enterprising — mak- 
ing the town of B5,le a place of commercial interest of 
no small note, and may be marked down with a history 
dating from the ancients, as we find Bdle first named as 
Basilea, in the year 3*14, and founded by the Romans, 
who had the cheerful habit of founding cities and towns 
for about the first five hundred years after the Christian 
era, when they were pleased to pay their poor and 
unofiending neighbors all over Europe, some and fre- 
quent calls to borrow a piece of territory to add to 
their empire just for amusement's sake. 

We did not tarry long at Bale but went direct to 
Lucerne, a very pretty little town on the lake of the 
same name. The well preserved walls and watch towers 
about and in Lucerne, which were erected in 1385, give 
the town an imposing appearance, while its amphitheat- 
rical situation on the lake, invests it with a peculiar 
charm. 

We take boat on the lake for Alpnacht, and the 
scenery around this beautiful sheet of water is not 
surpassed, if equaled, in the whole of Europe. Before 



300 Crusade to Europe 



us as we leave the pier is tlie grand old Rigi, stern old 
Pilatus, the fine old peaks called the Biirgensfcoek, the 
Buochser Horn, and the Stauser Horn ; on our left the 
Sehreckliorner, Monch, Eiger" and Jungfrau with its 
barren peak capped with snow in the month of August ; 
and there, nestling among those magnificent mountains, 
their heads hoary with age, lies the pretty little town 
of Lucerne, with its towers and battlements. Yery 
unfortunately, from lack of time, we were denied the 
pleasure of ascending the Rigi, much as we were led 
into temptation to do so. As we approach the Rigi and 
its sister mountains we are at once struck with their 
majesty and grandeur, our strongest portions of admira- 
tion are called upon, and here, amid those majestic 
mountains, in whose bosom we might say lays calmlj^ 
and peacefully this little sheet of water called Lake 
Lucerne, in trust as we might say of their guardians, the 
mountains — and how well we see do those guardians 
keep their vigilant watch, they shelter the little lake, so 
that no evil may come in, as a wolf to the fold, to 
disturb the calm repose in which it sleeps, not a ripple 
on its surface — and there, in front of us, behind us and 
around us, rising up high into the pure mountain air, 
are those mountains of nature, while occasional!}^ on 
their sides, far up, may be seen a little, rich green place 
cultivated by the sturdy mountaineers, and the lake 
kisses their sides so softly and beautifully ! 

We arrive at Alpnacht, whei'e we take diligence 
through the Brunig Pass, and, as we near it, our vocabu- 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 301 

laiy of adjectives falls far shoi't to qualify and words to 
describe the beauty here. We pass up and around the 
mountain side, and between laro-e mountains whose 
heads are seemingly blushing to appear from beneath 
the white and fleecy clouds which hover around and rest 
upon the tree tops, just like pretty white wool — so much 
so, that we had the feeling that we should love to have 
gone up thither and brought down a big armful. But 
let us look back — a new panorama has been placed 
there ; we again see the pretty little lake and the well 
cultivated valley ; but the climax of all this is to be 
reached as we near the summit. We ascend slowly as it 
is very steep ; we are going through a narrow pass, on 
the summit of those mountains, one on either side, like 
horns, until at last we are on level ground, through 
which we run, until, turning suddenly to the right, and 
there — oh ! there, what a sight ! — nature has given her 
kaleidoscope another turn, and though we think she has 
been kindly showing us Irer best architectural piles in 
her mountains, and her best paintings in her valleys and 
plains, we find she has only been leading us on, tantaliz- 
ing our appetites for more of her beauties, leading us 
farther into her meshes, just as mau}^ are led into vice — 
for, having seen one picture we want to go on and see 
more. Here she has placed her finest picture. On our 
right hand, and on our way down, is the steep mountain 
side, round which the road, smooth as a table, gracefully 
winds; just over the precipices on our left, and away in 
front, from directly under our position, lays the unspeak- 



Crusade to Europe 



able charming Brienz Valley, as level as can be, and so 
cultivated and mapped out as to resemble a vast checker- 
board of squares, composed of such greens as may be 
seen onl}'' in Switzerland ; and then, directly down its 
centre, runs the little river Aar, entering' into the small 
but picturesque Brienz Lake in the distance. Down the 
steep side of the mountain on which we are is one side 
of the background, of thickly wooded pines, and then, 
over on our left, are two sturdy mountains looming 
haughtily into the air. From a side base, in cone shape, 
and just in between the tops of these two cones, stands a 
barren, rugged, bald-faced mountain, with a head gear of 
the purest white snow, made brilliant like diamonds by 
the sun's rays, and what a grand and lovely background 
all this makes to the modest yet beautiful valley at these 
haughty mountains' feet ; yet they all seem to me like a 
happy family. The mountain, with its hoary, white 
head covered with its perpetual wig of snow, keeps its 
place, and does not seem jealous of its sister moun- 
tains, who, with their luxuriant foliage, do not seem 
to envy their taller sister, which bears her peculiar 
mark of admiration, that of snow in summer, but 
all seeiji to clasp hands round their little 2^^ot€ge — 
the valley — as much as to say, in the strong voice of 
nature, "Our little daughter is beautiful, her pretty 
face we will guard and shelter from winter's cold 
blast, she shall be " nice and warm, and from 
our tops we will let our little streams of clear, cold, 
sparkling water pour down our sides, and give her 



OF Allegheny Commanuery. 



refreshing food and drink, so tliat slie shall be beau- 
tiful always, and we will reflect credit upon her by 
appearing- here as a background for her," and the 
beautiful valley would seem to say in response: "My 
big sisters are so kind, I will try and be more 
beautiful than ever, and try to reflect beaut3^ back 
upon my more striking sisters, who have grown so 
tall, 3'-et would lack their grandeur were I to fade 
and die away." Then, as we pass on down high, 
rugged rocks, perpendicular, and, at times, hanging 
over us, until, as we near the base, and are about 
to enter the plain, we find we are in an immense 
Colosseum — a great, vast, close amphitheatre of hills 
— the niches in whose sides form a gallery, that man, 
in all his power and strength of mind, can never 
hope to accomplish in imitating. How very small 
are we poor traveling, toiling, or indolent ants in 
comparison with the other works of nature ! True, 
the human being has an immortal soul that poor, 
dumb nature has not ; but, oh ! how she, in her 
beauty and wonders, speaks to us in words far more 
powerful and expressive than any in the vocabulary 
of any human tongue. 

When we take the little boat at Brienz, on the 
little Brienz Lake, which is much smaller, but no less 
beautiful than Lake Lucerne, we find ourselves land- 
locked, we can scarcely trace the road through which 
we came, and this is wholly the feature with Swiss 
scener}^ ; it is a picture that is ever and constantly 



304 



Crusade to Europe 



changing at every step we advance — a peak pops out its 
bare or beautifully covered head, if only for a peep, 
or a valley shows its pretty face in some kindly opening- 
nook in the mountain, or some grand old barren rock 
struts forward boldly and commands attention at once. 

As we leave Brienz on the little steamer, across the 
lake stands a very high mountain, entirely covered 
with pine trees, and about half way up in a little 
crevice in the mountain stands the Giessbach hotel, an 
elegant building, in just such a situation as the shrewd 
old ancients selected for their castles. The situation 
is delightful, commanding a fine view of all the sur- 
rounding country ; a little above it are the Giessbach 
"Waterfall and Cascade, which are known as the illum- 
inated falls. 

The Lake of Brienz is seven and a half miles long 
and two miles in width, surrounded entirely and com- 
pletely by lofty wooded mountains and rocks. We stop 
at Bonigen, and are conveyed by railway about a 
quarter of an hour's ride to Tnterlaken, which is a 
delightful ride ; seated in comfortable seats on the 
tops of the cars, an ample opportunity is afforded to 
take in tlie surrounding scenery. 

Proceeding to the Royal Victoria Hotel, at Inter- 
laken, one of the "finest hotels visited on our tour, 
after dinner — and a rare one too — we had the pleasure 
of seeing some very elegant costumes at a full dress 
hop that was given in the parlors of the hotel on that 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 305 

same evening. Inteiiaken lies between tlie Lalces of 
Tliun and Brienz, and in tlie centre of tlie town is 
a handsome avenue of walnut trees, and from its 
centre a fine view is obtained of the snow-capped 
Jungfrau. 

The town is a great resort for summer visitors from 
almost all quarters, and is noted for its even and mild 
temperature. From Interlaken we travel to Thun and 
Berne, starting on the steamer on Lake of Thun, which 
is ten and a half miles long and two in width, with 
picturesque villas and gardens at first on either bank, 
and then becoming high and precipitous. 

From Thun on a lovely Sabbath morning we travel 
to and arrive at Berne, a very pretty little Swiss town, 
crossing the Nydeckhrucke^ a handsome railroad bridge of 
three arches, completed in 1844, at the end of which is 
the Bear's Den ; here the bear, which is the heraldic 
emblem of Berne is maintained, according to im- 
memorial custom at the expense of the municipality, 
and no persons are permitted to make old Bruin any 
ofierings except bread and fruit. An English officer 
in 1861 fell into the home and arms of Bruin, and 
was torn in pieces, after a desperate struggle. 

Berne is a place of much interest, containing about 
40,000 inhabitants. It is built on a peninsula of 
sandstone rock, and the fine stone houses are mostly 
all built over arcades, the pavements nearly all being 
under cover. As Brooklyn is the city ot churches, 

T 



3o6 Crusade to Europe 



SO Berne might properly be called the city of foun- 
tains, most of which are adorned with statues in which 
the bear is always a prominent and recurring object. 
While passing round the city we saw the most singular 
and ingenious mechanical figures in the Clock Tower. 
At three minutes of any hour a cock flaps its wings 
and crows ; near it, in a circle, like a circus ring, 
comes out a number of animals and grotesque figures, 
which run around five or six times ; while this is 
going on a devil sits up on a stool, each hand on 
a bell-rope, and rings two bells, kicks up his feet, 
and laughs; then, as the hour is reached, a large iron 
figure of a man raises his arms and strikes the hour 
on the large bell with a hammer ; at the same time 
a man with a long white beard, representing Old 
Age, turns over a sand-glass, slowly nodding his 
head, and a bear his. 

A fine building is the Cathedral, which was com- 
menced in 1421, and completed fifty-two years later. It 
has some particularly fine decorations, the sculptures 
representing the Last Judgment, the Prophets, the 
Apostles and the Wise and Foolish Virgins. Among 
other prominent buildings are the Museum, the Uni- 
versity, the Corn ^all, the Federal Council, &c. 

From Berne we take train to Lausanne, but do not 
stop here longer than to change cars ; and securing a 
seat on the right side, we continue our journeying, 
skirting for a number of miles the beautiful Lake of 
Geneva, which is a singular and very deep blue color, 
and on its banks grow the sweet and wild chestnut, the 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 307 

walnut, the magnolia, the cedar of Lebanon and the 
omnipresent grapevine. There is a very singular 
feature in connection with the Lake of Geneva ; at 
particular spots the water rises several feet without any 
apparent cause or previous commotion, remains so for 
about half an hour, and then subsides to its original 
level. This is a singular phenomenon, and occurs 
mostly in spring and autumn, and at night. The cur- 
rents caused by the rising of subterranean springs are 
frequently so strong that no oarsman can make headway 
against them. We next come to the Castle of Chillon, 
where Bonivard was confined in 1530, by the Duke of 
Savoy. From near this point we enter the picturesque 
valley of the Rhone, which is only three miles wide, and 
hemmed in on either side by very high mountains, while 
down the valley flows the Rhone river, a dark grey 
colored water, and shortly after we arrive at Martigny 
and proceed to the Hotel Clerc, where we remain for the 
night, preparatory to crossing over the Tete-Noire to 
Chamouny. Hardly any feature of Martigny is worth 
mentioning, save the very prevalent and repulsive 
form of cretinism, of which almost every inhabitant is 
afflicted, and are the most disgusting looking people as 
a rule to be seen anywhere, with large heads, squat and 
bloated figures, bleared and hollow eyes, flat noses, 
limbs short and misshapen, knees thick, feet flat and an 
immense gathering at the throat, and generally have the 
sexual instincts developed in the most brutal form. It is 
a rare exception to find one not afflicted with goitre or 
incipient cretinism in male and female, young or old. 



Crusade to Europe 



Retiring early, we were up with the sun, and on 
our way over the Tete-Noire, which we proceed to as- 
cend through vine^'-ards and orchards, and meadows, 
where may be seen men cutting liaj- and grain, and 
women, girls and boys raking and binding, and on the 
mountain side we have a most magnificent and extensive 
view of the valley of the Rhone, and continuing our 
ascent, a good healthy one at that, we arrive at the sum- 
mit, and have one of the grandest views we have yet 
seen ; on our left having the Col de Bahiie, behind us 
the snow capped Buet, and on the right the Aiguilles 
Rouges, with Mont Blanc, the Gemmi, the Jungfrau, 
the Finster-Aarhorn, Grimseli and Furca, all in view in 
the distance and all beautifully topped with snow. 
From here we descend the steep side of the mountain, 
through the famous forest of Trient, and over a rough 
and rugged road cut out from the solid rock to Chate- 
lard, and through the grandest of scenery, wild and 
romantic in appearance ; and after dinner and changing 
horses we continue our ride to Chamouny, where we 
arrive late in the afternoon, and from our room windows 
in the Angletevie we look up to old Mont Blanc, with its 
wonderful glaciers, the Glacier du Tour^ d'Argentieve, 
Mer De Glace, and des Bossons. 

Any attempt at description of this grand and gor- 
geous scenery would be simply a failure upon our part, 
and words inadequate to its beauty, as one can scarcely 
conceive of this grand old mountain rising to the height 
of 15, "7 3 2 feet, covered with its aforementioned glaciers 



uF Allegheny Commandkry. 309 

and beautiful white snow, while down in the pretty 
valley of Chamouuy but a short distance from the 
lower portion of the glaciers, may be seen the Swiss 
reaping their golden grain. With a contrast so great, 
summer wedded to winter, heat to frost, harvest to 
harvest's death, the scenery can better be imagined than 
described. 

At 7 A. M. we take the express coach, an eight-horse 
immense vehicle, and journey through picturesque and 
beautiful valleys, the views upon the road constantly 
changing ; one high old mountain on either side playing 
" peep " round the corner of another, so that one could 
almost continue traveling over Switzerland and never 
weary in all the beauties which are constantly presented, 
and passing lovely grounds and handsome suburbs, we 
enter the beautiful city of Geneva. 

Geneva is one of the prettiest situated and prettiest 
looking cities of Europe, containing about 48,000 in- 
habitant^, about one-half of whom are Catholics. The 
river Rhone emerges from the lake and shoots swiftlj^ 
through the town. The old city which lies on the left 
bank of the Rhone, is narrow and hilly and rather 
unsightly, but upon the removal of the fortifications, 
which were converted into promenades and quays, it has 
been made a verj^ handsome elegantly built city. 

From the grand quay which fronts on the lake, a 
splendid view is to be had of the Mont Blanc range of 
mountains, and on a summer evening the appearance is 
certainly the most handsome conceivable. 



3IO Crusade to Europe 



It was in this town that John Calvin, the founder of 
Presbyterianism, while advocating the principles and 
doctrines with which he was imbued, and liberty of con- 
science and religious thought, performed the charitable, 
Christianlike and humane act of banishing one of his 
friends for differing with him on a little point of 
predestination, banished him, and carried out the more 
interesting and cheerful act of burning at the stake 
another poor fellow who differed with him on the 
doctrine of the Trinity, who on account of Calvin's 
charitable teachings, had fled to the city of Geneva 
where he expected he would receive encouragement and 
shelter from those whom he was led to believe would 
give such, only to meet his horrible fate of slowly 
roasting to death tied to a stake. 

The Cathedral is a fine building dedicated to St. 
Peter, and is supposed to occup}^ the site of an ancient 
temple of Apollo. The public library contains about 
sixty thousand volumes. The University, founded in 
1368, was reorganized by Calvin and Beza; in it are 
taught belles-lettres, philosophy, science, divinity, and 
law, the new building costing one-and-a-quarter million 
francs. 

Over three thousand persons are employed in Geneva, 
in the manufacture of watches, jewehy and musical 
boxes, and some conception of the chronometers, &c., 
turned out in this city may be had when we give the 
figures of over one hundred thousand watches being- 
made annually, using seventy-five thousand ounces of 



OF Allegheny CoMMANDERY. 311 

gold, five thousand marks of silver, and over two hundred 
thousand dollars worth of precious stones, and in 
addition to 'these are manufactured velvets, silks, leather, 
cutlery, firearms, mathematical, astronomical, and surgi- 
cal instruments. 

The history of Geneva can almost be dated back to 
122, B. C. and was burned during the reign of Helioga- 
balus, and rebuilt by Aurelian. John Knox was made a 
citizen of Geneva in 1558. In 1*782, about one thousand 
of the citizens of Geneva applied for permission to 
settle in Ireland, and the Irish Parliament voted £50,000 
to defray their expenses and granted them settlements of 
land near Waterford, but this never succeeded. It will 
also be remembered that the court of arbitration 
appointed by the United States, Great Britain, Italy, 
Switzerland, and Brazil, met in this city to settle the 
Alabama question, arising between the United States 
and Great Britain. In 18^3, the Duke of Brunswick, 
who died in that year, left his entire fortune of one 
hundred million francs to the city, which makes us think 
what a feast it would be for Pittsburgh, had she about 
half a dozen dukes as her residents, who would take it 
cheerfully into their heads to die and leave a few 
millions for the city's benefit. She needs it badly. 

From Geneva we take train for Pai'is, a long and 
tedious ride of about seventeen hours, and we encount- 
ered rather an amusing incident on our journey thither. 
Mr. John Main and " Carlisle " were comfortably spread 
out the entire length of the three seats of the compart- 



312 Crusade to Europe 



ment, locked tightly in the arms of Morpheus, the hour 
was about two o'clock in the morning, and dark as the 
darkness of Eg;ypt. To our train was attached a very 
elegantly fitted-up directors' car, in which was a party 
of handsomely dressed English ladies and stylishly made- 
up gentlemen. " Carlisle " was av/akened from his 
sound and peaceful slumbers by feeling some person or 
persons pulling vigorously at his clothing, and a full 
round voice of pure broad English, saying, " Get up? 
young man ; wake up, 3'oung man, li'and don't keep the 
ladies standing, joii know." We did as directed and 
awakened to find us in a perfect bedlam of chatter and 
noise. There was an elderly gentleman with evidently a 
liver that was in very bad condition, judging from his 
countenance ; an elderly lady, his wife, with the similar 
necessary portion of her living apparatus in about the 
same condition ; a younger gentlemen and lady. These 
we recognize as the party occupying the special car, the 
journals and wheel works of which had become red-hot 
from fast running, and had to be cut off at a side station 
and its occupants transferred to our carriage and com- 
partment, into which they were placed, each carrying 
band-boxes, hat-boxes, valises, satchels, coats, wraps, 
&c., while the elderly lady carried in her hands an 
article of ladies' wearing apparel usually purchased by 
number, and they jabbered away in about this style: 
Old gent — "Wli}', my deah, you'll catch your death of 
cold, yoii av'n't even got your sta^-s on, my deah ! '' Old 
lady— " Perfectly scandalous this, taken from one's bed 
at two o'clock in the morning in a pei'fect state of 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 313 

prespiration ; terrible, indeed, h'and then tlirust into a 
compartment with perfect strangers, h'and they occupy- 
ing the entire seats ! " while the younger lady relieved 
herself about thusly : " Perfect shame, this, ought to be 
Avritten to Times, you know ; no place in Britain would 
we be treated like this ; perfectly scandalous to be 
taken from one's couch in their sleeping garments,'' &c. 
All this given in true English accent, it was, we thought 
the funniest thing we had ever seen, and should have 
been seen to have been full}^ enjoyed. Of course the 
remarks of the 0. L. were a little rough on Mr. Main 
and " Carlisle," still we are always ready to forgive the 
ignorant for they never know any better. 

Arriving in Paris, we spend two or three days, and 
then, via Calais and Dover, we proceed to London, 
where we arrive about 7 A. M. 



i^L, 



314 Crusade to Europe 



^eftt^P' Mo. 8. 

London and its Sig-lits. — The Unfortunate Loss of a 
■Watch.— Pilgrims Turn Their Weary Feet Home- 
■wards. — "Carlisle" and the Doctor Badly Used 
Up on the Home-ward Voyag'e. — Particularly 
"Carlisle." — Arrival Home. — Incidents by the 
"Way. 

On our arrival at the station at London, we here 
hastily bade good-bye to Mr. Wm. Semple, who drove to 
Pancross Station, to take train at once for other cities in 
England, Scotland and Ireland for business purposes, 
and Mr. Main and " Carlisle" wended their way to the 
Midland Grand Hotel, where we found our old friend, 
the Doctor, domiciled in his room and fast asleep, he 
having as stated, "raised" sufficient on his tour, solitary 
and alone, having spent a few days with our partj^ in 
Brussells, and found his way back through Holland and 
Belgium, to London. We soon had him awake, and 
inquiries made relative to our baggage and some pur- 
chases we had made on the continent and sent per Ex- 
press to London from Cologne, paying ten francs for the 
same in order to secure promptness and security in 
delivery. The Doctor cheerfully informed us our bag- 
gage had not yet arrived, and we spent one entire day in 
a '' hansom '' and in the neighborhood of three or 
four thousand pounds in fees in looking it up, finally 
succeeding in finding it about six o'clock in the evening. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 315 

They conduct their Express companies on the 
most scientific mule plan of anything we have ever seen! 
If we wished to send a package, say to Sewickley, 
about thirteen miles from the city of Alleghen}^, on the 
European plan, it would be forwarded in the lightning- 
time of about four days from the office in Allegheny to 
tliat of Sewickley, while, allowing all due time for de- 
lays in carrying packages to express office, by ordering 
some goods by telegraph from New York a person 
might reasonably expect that the order given in the 
spring the goods would come to hand by the fall at an}^ 
rate, so expeditious and systematic are they in the good 
" Old Countrie." 

Starting out to see London is like going to visit a 
•country of itself; however, securing a " hansom" we 
go over the main part of the ground. London, in the 
twelfth centur}^ had about 50,000 inhabitants, in the 
seventeenth, about 200,000; in I8OI, about 1,000,000; 
in 1821, about 1,350,000; in 1841, about 2,000,000; in 
1861, almost 3,000,000, and in 1871, about 4,000,000; 
almost as many as the entire State of Penns^dvania, 
most of whom also were born in England. The city of 
London has about Y,400 streets, which, if laid end to 
end would form a line 2,600 miles long, or to give an 
idea of distance, would stretch almost across the Ameri- 
can continent. It is lighted by 1,000,000 gas lamps, 
and consumes 28,000,000 cubic feet of gas daily. The 
annual value of house propert}^ is about £24,000,000 
pounds sterling. A singular fact is that there are more 
■Scotchmen in London than are i" Edinburgh, more 



3i6 . Crusade to Europe 



Irish than in Dublin, more Jews than in Palestine, and 
more Roman Catholics than in Rome! It is estimated 
that there are annually consumed about 2,000,000 quar- 
ters of wheat, 400,000 oxen, 1,500,000 sheep, 130,000 
calves, 250,000 swine, 8,000,000 head of poultry and 
game, 400,000,000 pounds of fish, 500,000,000 oysters, 
1,250,000 lobsters, and 3,000,000 salmon, and wash 
all this down with 1.80,000,000 quarts of porter and ale, 
.8,000,000 quarts of spirits, and 31,000,000 quarts of 
wine. For a city of big figures, by all means commend 
us to London. 

The most frequented part of London is London 
Bridge, nine hundred feet long, over which passes daily 
about twenty-five thousand vehicles and countless pedes- 
trians. 

On the highest ground in the city stands St. Paul's 
Cathedral, on whose site it has been maintained stood a 
temple of Diana, in Pagan times. The present church,, 
of which Sir Christopher Wren was the architect, was 
opened for divine service in 169T, though not completed 
until 1710. The greater part of the cost of construction 
was defrayed by a tax on coal, and the building was 
commenced and completed under the supervision of one 
architect, one master mason and one bishop. It is the 
third largest church in Christendom ; its nave being five 
hundred feet in length, and one hundred and eighteen 
feet in width, and from the pavement to the top of the 
cross it is four hundred and four feet. In the church 
are fine monuments to Nelson, John Howard, Dr. John- 



OF Ali.kgheny Commandery. 317 

son, Sir Charles Napier, and Wellington. In a chamber 
behind the sarcophagus of Nelson is the hearse used at 
the Duke of Wellington's funeral with all its trappings. 
Westminster Abbey is a fine building dating from 
the seventh century, in which all the British Sovereigns 
from Edward the Confessor to Queen Victoria have 
been crowned, and in which many of them are buried. 
Almost all the space is taken up within the Abbey by 
monuments and tablets, some of them very handsome, 
t)thers horrible executions and designs. A peculiar 
inscription is upon the monument of John Gay, the poet, 
which was composed by himself for his own tablet: 

" Life is a jest : and all things show it : 
I thought so once, but now I know it." 

Surrounding the eastern end are nine chapels ; the centre 
of the chapel of Edward the Confessor was richl}^ 
inlaid with mosaic work. The monuments of Queen 
Elizabeth and Mar}^ Stuart are in the north and south 
aisles ; near the former is the monument to Edward V., 
and his brother Duke of York, the sons of Edward IV., 
who were murdered in the tower, when children, by kind- 
hearted Richard III. In the Poefs Corner beside the 
other illustrious dead are buried Macauley, Dickens, 
Bulwer, and Livingstone. 

The Parliament Houses occupy the site of the old 
palace which was destroyed b_y fire in 1834. They 
■cover an area of eight acres, have eleven hundred com- 
partments and one hundred staircases, with two miles of 
corridors. The House of Lords is one of the most 



3i8 Crusade to Europe 



gorgeous legislative halls in the world. It contains the 
throne for the Queen, a seat for H. R. H., the Prince of 
Wales, and the woolsack for the Lord Chancellor, The 
Houses were erected from a plan by Sir Charles Barry^ 
out of ninety-seven others in competition. 

Facing the throne is the reporters' and strangers' 
gallery. In the windows, which are filled with stained 
glass and lighted at night from the outside | are twelve 
figures, and at either end of the room statues of the 
barons who compelled King John to sign Magna Charta. 
The entrance for the Queen is at the Victoria Tower, at 
which she enters when convening or proroguing Parlia- 
ment, and ever since the gunpowder plot of 1605, the 
cellars underneath the house are always thoroughly 
examined two hours before the Sovereign's arrival. 

The Peers' Lobby contains some very elegant brass 
candelabra, and each peer has in this lobby his own hat 
peg provided with his name. The House of Commons- 
is not so lavishly and elaborately' fitted up as is the 
House of Lords, but in a more business-like appearance. 
In the central hall are marble statues of Hampden, 
Selden, Sir Robert Walpole, Lord Cliatham, the Irish 
orator Grrattan, Lord Clarendon, Lord Falkland, Lord 
Somers, Lord Mansfield, Fox and Burke. 

Westminster Hall is full of historical recollections; 
being used at one time by the English Parliament, where 
coronation festivals were held by a number of monarchs, 
where Charles I. was condemned to death, and where 
Cromwell, clothed in royal purple lined with ermine, 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 319, 

was saluted and hailed as Lord Protector, while within 
a very few years afterwards his body was rudely dragged 
from its grave in Westminster Abbey, his head taken off 
and exposed between those of Bradshaw and Ireton, on 
the pinnacles of this same Westminster Hall, where he 
was greeted with the "All hail, Lord Protector ! " and it 
remained tliere for over thirty years, a high wind at last 
carrying it to the ground. Here also were condemned 
to death Sir William Wallace, Sir John Oldcastle, Sir 
Thomas More, the Earl of Essex, Guy Fawkes, and the 
Earl of Stafford. 

The Tower of London is the next object of visita- 
tion, having a bright, cheerful record for murders done 
up in the most approved manner by royalty, is now a 
government fortress, and kept in repair as such. It is 
a very ancient institution, and can be traced back to the 
time of Julius C?esar. It contains a renowned and 
wonderful collection of firearms, as also the Regalia 
Room for the Queen's jewels. In this tower Richard 
II., abdicated in favor of Henry of Bolingbroke, and 
the heads taken from Sir Thomas More, Queen Anne 
Boleyn, Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, Margaret 
Pole, Countess of Salisbury, Queen Catherine Howard, 
Lord Admiral Seymour, Lord Somerset, the protector ; 
John Dudley, Lady Jane Grey and her husband, Robert 
Devereux, Earl of Essex, James Fitzroy, and Sir 
Thomas Overbury was poisoned therein, while a very 
large list of celebrated personages might be named as 
having been confined there for the purpose of dying a 
slow and miserable death,, or taken out to make a bon- 



320 Crusade to Europe 

fire so that some good and noble saints might piously 
part their coat tails and warm themselves, while others 
were cruelly tortured or poisoned. 

In the Tower also are the Queen's jewels, as stated, 
where may be seen Queen Victoria's crown, made in 
1838, and containing 2,183 diamonds, and the famous 
Koh-i-noor, one of the largest diamonds known, weigh- 
ing one hundred and sixtj^-two karats. 

The General Post Office is a fine building, in the 
Ionic .style ; but let us look at a few figures, just for 
curiosity's sake, taken from late statistics of the Post 
Office business of Great Britain. In 1876, 298,000,000 
book packets and newspapers, 93,000,000 postal cards 
and 1,019,000,000 letters passed througli the mails, 
while in 1814, there were issued 15,100,562 post office 
orders, covering a sum of £26,296,441, and in 1816, 
the number of orders issued was 11,822,921, covering 
£21,516,196, and the Post Office Savings Bank had on 
deposit in 1815, £26,000,000, with the profits of the 
Post Office Department amounting to £1,894,141. 

The Telegraph office is directly opposite the Post 
Office, and showing the advantage of the government 
■controlling the telegraph lines; a dispatch of twenty 
words can be sent to any part of the Kingdom for one 
shilling, or twenty-five cents. The Instrument Gallery 
• contains five hundred instruments, while in the basement 
is a fifty-horse power engine for forwarding messages to 
other city offices by means of pnuematic tubes ; in 1816 
the number of telegrams forwarded was 21,000,000. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 321 



An interesting place is the Royal Mint ; from 1865 
to 1875 there were coined in the Mint, 44,179,233 sover- 
eigns, 15,724,945 half-sovereigns, 14,198,254 florins, 43,- 
275,160 shillings. 

Guild Hall is a large building, which is now used for 
municipal meetings. On November ninth, the Lord 
Mayor elect proceeds in state to Westminster Hall, 
where he is sworn in, and in the evening gives a 
sumptuous banquet in Guild Hall, which is attended by 
the ministers of government and other public dignitaries. 

At the further end of Cheapside, one of the busiest 
streets in London, and containing handsome stores, is 
the Mansion House, the official residence of the Lord 
Mayor during his year of office, and from the Mansion 
House to Blackfriars Bridge, is Queen Victoria street, 
one of the great improvements of London, and construct- 
ed at vast expense. 

The Bank of England comes next, covering four 
acres of ground; founded in 1691, by William Patei'son, 
a Scotchman, and is the only bank in London having the 
power to issue paper money, fifteen thousand new bank- 
notes being turned out daily. Its vaults usually con- 
tains from fifteen to twenty million pounds sterling, 
employs about nine hundred pei'sons, and the bank 
receives £200,000 per annum for managing the national 
debt which amounts to in the neighborhood of 
£775,348,686, and it is estimated it would take £40,000 
per annum to cover the forgeries practiced upon — princi- 
pall}^ by shrewd Yankees — careful as the bank officials are. 

u 



322 Crusade to Europe 



London Bridge was of course visited, if for no otlier 
reason tlian to see how far violators of their oaths as 
Knights of Submission might have to fall. It was design- 
ed by a Scotchman, the lamp-posts of which are cast of 
metal of French cannon, captured in the peninsular war. 
Close by is the monument erected in commemoration of 
the great fire, which destroyed four hundred and sixty 
streets and over thirteen thousand houses and churches. 

Then we take a walk through Billingsgate, the great 
fish market of London, where refined and choice lan- 
guage are a main feature, so much so that it is as 
renowned for that as for its fish. 

While walking along Victoria Embankment, a new 
and beautiful drive and promenade, constructed at a cost 
of over £2,000,000, we saw them putting in place the 
Egyptian obelisk from Alexandria, otherwise Cleopatra's 
Needle. This famous obelisk was presented to the 
English Government by Mohammed Ali, and taken to 
England by the private munificence of Dr. Erasmus 
Wilson. It measures about seventy feet in height, and 
is eight feet at the base, and weighs about two hundred 
and twenty tons. 

A very interesting visit may be made to the office of 
the Times, spoken of by our lady friends en route to 
Paris ; about twelve thousand copies can be struck off in 
one hour ; the continuous rolls of paper with which the 
machine feeds itself are each four miles in length, and of 
these about thirty are used daily. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 323 

Trafalgar Square is a beautiful place, dedicated to 
Admiral Nelson, with a handsome granite column rising 
from its centre, crowned with a statue of the hero of the 
naval battle of Trafalgar. On one side is a scene from 
the battle of Aboukir, with JSTelson wounded in the head, 
declining to be assisted out of turn by the surgeon who 
is dressing the wounds of a common sailor, and b^low 
the death scene of Nelson ; on another side is Nelson's 
last command, " England expects every man will do his 
duty." 

The Albert Memorial is a magnificent monument to 
the memory of the late Prince Consort, erected by the 
English nation, costing £120,000, half of which was 
defrayed by voluntary contributions. On a spacious 
platform, to which granite steps ascend, on each side 
rises a basement, adorned with reliefs of marble, repre- 
senting artists of every period. On one side are poets 
and musicians ; on another, painters ; on another, archi- 
tects, and on the remaining one, sculptors. Four 
projecting pedestals at the angles support marble groups, 
representing Agriculture, Manufacture, Commerce and 
Engineering. At the corner of the steps leading up to 
the basement are four pedestals bearing magnificent 
allegorical representations, sculptured in marble, repre- 
senting the four quarters of the globe — Europe, Asia, 
Africa and AixK|rica. 

We cannot possibly go over all the ground, the 
Royal Exchange, Corn Exchange, Coal Exchange, 
Blackfriars Bridge, the Temple, National Grallery, Ken- 



324 Crusade to Europe 



sington Museum, Buckingham Palace, Hyde . Park, 
Regent's Park, Zoological Gardens, British Museum, as 
the two latter alone would fill one or more such A^olumes 
as this, not to speak of the thousand other places of 
interest in London, not even mentioned in this volume. 

A few brief facts in connection with London and we 
are done with that city. There are 6ver fifteen hundred 
places of worship within the metropolitan limits ; about 
four hundred Wesleyan and other Methodist places of 
worship ; the Baptists have about three hundred, the 
Congregationalists about half as many as the latter • the 
Roman Catholics have about one hundred, the English 
and other Presbyterians about twenty-five, Unitarians 
about twelve, the Jews have twenty synagogues, with 
the number constantly increasing, and numerous other 
miscellaneous places, chapels, &c. 

The Temple Church near Temple Bar, consists of the 
Round Church and the choir, and was formerly used as 
a place of worship by the Knights Templar, and no more 
interesting work can be read than' that of Mr, William 
Longman, who gives a detailed history of all the 
religious work of London, in his " History of the Three 
Cathedrals," dedicated to St. Paul of London. The 
total number of charitable institutions in London is over 
one thousand, and their united computed income about 
twenty-five millions of dollars per annum, j 

While in London an unfortunate thing occurred to 
one of our party, poor fellow, now deceased, and we tell 
it as a warning to all visitors to " Merrie England " to 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 325 

be on the look-out for gentlemen with " freight bills " 
and "old acquaintances," &c. It seems our old friend, 
Dr. Wm. M. Herron, was sitting in front of the hotel in 
London, enjoying one of Elton's fragrant William's ^ 
Havana cigars at a dollar a piece, in company with our 
rather elderly friend from the adjacent government of 
New Jersey, who carried a very elegant and valuable 
chronometer, chain and Maltese cross. Dr. Herron had 
occasion to go into the hotel for a moment, and on 
coming out found the old gentleman had also vacated 
his seat. After a while he turned up, large drops of 
perspiration standing on his forehead, and thereby hangs 
a tale. It appears a prepossessing-looking and elegant- 
talking gentleman approached our friend, engaged him 
in conversation somewhat thusly : " Pleasant evening," 
etc. " Why, jj-ou're a Knight Templar, aren't you ? 
Happy meeting ; belong to that fraternity myself," said 
Mr. Smart Alex, examining at the same time the honor- . ^ 
able gentleman's cross and chain. ■ Mr. S. took out his 
time-piece at the same time, and smiled that hearty 
smile peculiarly his own. Mr. Smart Man examined the 
$450 watch, &c., and loosened it from its guard, remark- 
ing that "he had a verj^ ancient and valuable Masonic 
ring in his room, which he would just go and bring for 
the Judge's examination,'' taking, however, the time- 
piece with him, the unsuspecting Mr. S., no doubt, feeling a 
elated over his newly-made friend from his own country. 
Were it not for the fact that we had seen Mr. S. in 
America, since his return from the " Crusade," and that 



326 ~ Crusade to Europe 

he has since made his long last pilgrimage, we would be 
prone to believe our friend was still patiently waiting 
the return of the fine-looking gentleman who was a 
Knight Templar; and here we would take occasion to 
plainly say to all readers, beware of all men who by 
means of any emblems of any order, no matter what it 
is, would desire to display them for business purposes, 
they are neither Odd-Fellows, Masons, Knights of 
Pythias, or anything else, and may properly be con- 
demned and looked down upon as being neither consis- 
tent members of the order they claim to belong to, nor 
are they in common terms, honorable men. A man wIiq 
will display an emblem of any order for a purpose, other 
than that for which it is intended, can generally be 
marked down either in the books of the craft themselves 
or by outsiders as being N. Gr. or D. 1?., which being- 
^ interpreted meaneth " no good " and " dead beat " in 
vulgar parlance. 

The same will also hold good in cases of men whose 
hands are full of grips, as they choose to call them, as a 
general rule and with very rare exceptions, are impos- 
ters, practical paupers, and below the dignity of either 
members or non-members of any secret organization^ 
and in saying this we mean tliose wlio would make a 
business of it, or who think they can accomplish an end 
by such means, they could not otherwise obtain. 

THE RETURN OP THE WANDERERS. 

We were now prepared to turn our faces homewards, 
towards the setting sun and our own fair land, though 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 327 

inwardly we had some premonition a bad case was ahead < 
for ns, wliieh afterwards turned out to be only too true; 
alas ! how true, for oh ! how " Carlisle " suffered none 
can ever tell, it makes us actually sea-sick to even think 
of it, and notwithstanding frequent crossing of the 
Atlantic, "Carlisle" for about three days was the 
sickest, most disconsolate and let-down mortal that ever 
stepped aboard a steamer, and as we have told the 
doings of some of our part}'' in preceding letters, per- 
haps it would not be the fair, square thing to allow 
" Carlisle " to pass by without giving him a good solid 
dig between the ribs, for he had his enjoyment over the 
poor unfortunates who made the chants and responses, 
and yelled " New York ! " in gurgled tones on board the 
fine British and IS'orth American Royal Mail Steam- 
packet " Russia." But we are very happy to say the 
Doctor was just as bad as " Carlisle ; " but from some 
peculiar faculty he bears, the Doctor is by all odds the 
most unmitigated lively sick man, when he is sea-sick, 
we have ever seen. He may wriggle around on his four- 
feet-six stilts, looking or making for the wheel-house, 
but he'll go thither and take his position at the ensign 
staff in the rear of the wheel-house, the vessel pitching* 
and rolling round, a soda cracker in his hand, and 
expectorate at the " blarsted " country he has just left, 
and smile a broad grin of satisfaction through it all, but 
we know that it came only from sheer inward satisfac- 
tion that " Carlisle " was sticking closely to him, assist- 
ing him nobly to " Hold the Fort.'' 



328 Crusade to Europe 



Accordingly^ at 12 o'clock, midnight, August the 9th, 
we bade farewell to our friend, Mi'. John B. Main, who 
Was to remain in London for a few da^'-s longer, and 
were soon safely quartered in a handsome Pullman 
sleeper on our way to Liverpool, from thence to embark 
for home ; and we can assure our readers, though our 
"Crusade'' had been one of unalloyed pleasure, the 
friends and acquaintances we had found and made while 
" strangers in a foreign land " had been unspeakably 
kind ; the sights we had seen had been interesting, 
instructive and grand ; yet it was with light and joj'ous 
hearts on that night we took the train for Liverpool, 
knowing that, with each revolution of the ponderous 
driving-wheels of the engine drawing our train, we were 
constantly nearing those we loved, who were now anx- 
iously awaiting our return from a foreign shore. Yet, if 
we could only have pla3'ed " Rip Van Winkle " for 
about three or four succeeding daj^s to that night — oh ! 
we would have given, well — we would have given enough 
to have saved John Sherman the trouble of issuing those 
" Baby Bonds," and we would n't have cared one solitary 
cent whether the poor in America had still had their 
" surplus " tied up in a stocking and buried 'neath an 
apple tree in the garden or not, for somehow or other 
" Carlisle " had an intuition he was going to be deathly 
sea-sick going home, and, when seated in the car, we 
ventured to state our inward feeling to the Doctor, who 
sympathized with us to the extent of sajdng, " He 
prayed heaven we would." 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 329 

You see we did n't need to tell this on ourselves at 
all", but as each of the " Crusaders " going over who 
.were sick, awful sick — particularly, the Doctor — when- 
ever they have seen " Carlisle " since coming home, have 
stated they have each a ten-column article ready for 
every paper in the country on" Carlisle's" indisposition, 
did we fail to tell the whole truth and nothing but the 
truth ; and as we are alleged co have tormented the life 
out of all going over, we "' give ourself away," which 
will be considerabl}^ nearer the truth than for a lot of 
infuriated Modocs seeking revenge to do. 

Sleeping soundly until 8 A. M., we were awakened in 
Liverpool, and, strange to saj^ the feeling was stronger 
than ever tliat we were to pay our tribute to Neptune — 
the old Coroner'' s Convention — which name qualifies his 
standing better than any we can at present recall. 

During that Saturda}^ morning we wandered round the 
city, it raining in torrents all the time, seeing all we could 
of the principal seaport of England ; but through it all 
" Carlisle" still brooded over his inevitable fate which 
he felt was sure to come. Everything went wrong that 
morning from the start ; we had a surly waiter bring 
■our breakfast, in our coffee floated a couple of roaches 
taking a warm and early bath ; well of course we had a 
fuss with Mr. Waiter. Liverpool is a city of about 
500,000 inhabitants, and from its busy appearance 
resembles more an American than an English city. St. 
George's Hall is a very handsome Corinthian building, 
with columns forty-five feet high. It is a city abounding 



330 Crusade to Europe 



in scliools of various kinds, and charitable institutions^ 
and having fine public bath-houses, wash-houses and 
drinking fountains. The splendid docks of Liverpool,, 
along the Mersey, including those of Birkenhead, a 
little town opposite Liverpool, cover four hundred and 
four acres, and extend five miles on the Liverpool side 
and two on the Birkenhead side. The amount of capital 
invested in the docks is about $50,000,000, three-fourths 
of which is held in Liverpool proper. Nearly one-half 
of all the exports from England are shipped from the 
port of Liverpool alone. The total number of vessels 
that enter the port a year is about sixteen thousand,. 
and representing a tonnage of about seven million tons 
in round numbers, and equally divided as to sailing 
vessels and steamers. In ISH the registered shipping 
tonnage belonging to the port was 1,866 sailing-vessels 
of 990,86T tons, and 563 steamers of 412,464 tons. The- 
improvement of the approach to the river was to be 
completed in 18Y4, but the landing stage, the most mag- 
nificent structure in the world of the kind, was burned 
July 22, 18U. 

Of course as we wandered round, and having ap- 
petites of which we had no cause for complaint, we 
became hungry, and it is astonishing what fools persons 
can make of themselves preparatory to embarking on an 
ocean voyage, and the Doctor and " Carlisle" were 
booked in the foregoing party. We wandered into a 
restaurant and went vigorously to work on some jam 
tarts, which, of course, are capital for one about to be- 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 331 

sea-sick ; then the Doctor, the deep schemer, under the 
guise of friendship and a lavish freak of generosity, 
hunted up an apple woman, of whom he purchased some 
alleged fruit of the orchard, and gave them unto " Car- 
lisle," and he did eat of them, which was a wonderful 
addition to the good ready we were then getting on for 
a day or so following. We will never he convinced of 
anything else than that we ate about a dozen sixteen- 
ounce cannon balls shipped from the United States for 
the Muscovites to kill a few more Turks with, for these 
good people at that time were enjoying themselves with 
United States guns and ammunition, and plenty of men 
to practice on, and we actually presumed them to be ap- 
ples. 

At 3 P. M. we were on board the little tug and 
steaming out to the " Bothnia," then anchored in the 
stream, and shortly after were on board that steamer, 
and we felt sick then sure. We can say that the " Both- 
nia" is as far ahead of the " Russia" in everytliing 
about her as the " Russia'' is ahead of a decent canal 
boat, for no other line running from New York to Liver- 
pool dare keep such an affair in their trade as the " Rus- 
sia," save the line that owns her. Still, we object also 
somewhat to the " Bothnia ; " while she is a very nne 
boat, staunch and very nicely fitted up, we object to 
going down to sleep in the cellar at nights, and we 
won't take any more "Bothnia" or "Russia"' in ours. 
Those who want safety can take it, and have all they 
want ; but if we have the Atlantic to cross again, we 11 



332 Crusade to Europe 



take a mighty big risk if tliat were so, in a commou 
^ Wliite Star, Inman or Anchor Line boat, thougli the 
latter-named companies are not companies of long name 
and many initials. Of Captain McMickan, commanding 
the " Bothnia," we will say a more efficient and gentle- 
manly officer treads no deck anywhere than he ; he is an 
excellent disciplinarian, and his. officers, every one of 
them, are thorough and efficient in their duties, and 
everything moves like clock-work. 

But, in the language of the famed orator, Mr. 
Hughey Dougherty, "we are wandering from the paths 
of literature," "we are straying from the subject," so 
let us get back for fear we still neglect to chronicle 
the fact of " Carlisle's " bed-riddenness. 

About 4 P. M., we heaved anchor, (we heaved, we 
are sure, half-a-dozen far larger ones than the one 
which held our ship,) and soon were steaming away 
towards Queenstown, and half an hour later the 
" Wyoming," of the Gruion Line, pulled up stakes and 
followed suit. 

It was a lovely moonlight night, the water smooth 
as glass, not a " ripple on the wave ;" but from all the 
calmness of the surroundings, we could not drive away 
this continual inward remembrance that our doom was 
approaching. The vessel was crowded. Old folks tod- 
dled up and down discussing this subject and that, 
gentlemen with their wives linked arm in arm looked 
lovingly upon each other, the Doctor and " Carlisle " trod 
manfully from stem to stern, and from rear to front; 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 



333 



and between seeing those married couples, as we said, 
looking lovingly upon eacli other, and this confounded 
inward feeling saying to us, " Carlisle,' you're a 
gon'ner," to repeat the oratorical Dougherty, " It was 
healthy." We imagined we were sick then ; however, 
at abont 10 P. M., we found our way to our room, 
and save for the then continual beating of the engine, 
we wonld n't have known we were moving, and so had 
a good night's rest. The following day, (Sunday) we 
were anchored in Cork Harbor, to await the arrival of 
the mail at 4 o'clock, and as we had four hours there, 
the look of dry land and the spacious " Queen's Hotel " 
was too much for us, we said to our friend, " Doctor, 
I'm going to be sick ; I know it — I feel it in my bones 
plainly. Just let us go once more on to drj^ land 
and get a good square meal at the ' Queen's ' before 
we sail." We struck the right chord that time. The 
fact was, the Doctor felt he was going to be ill also, 
but wouldn't acknowledge it. We went ashore on the 
tug and made for the " Queen's." It was Sunday, and 
the strict observance of that day there forbade their 
setting out a decent meal, so all we could get was cold 
meats, some Irish fruit (potatoes,) and lots of grass 
and hay — otherwise salad. Returning to the steamer, 
we again heaved anchor, and were about starting "out 
on the ocean waA^e." The " Wyoming " came up to the 
mouth of the harbor and lay-to there — we don't know 
what for, only from pure " cussedness," as we will 
shortly show. 



334 



Crusade to Europe 



Being out of the harbor an hour or so, then — Jeru- 
salem ! there came up a blow, and the bow of the vessel 
began to bow most gracefull}^ to the United States 
ahead, while her stern began to resemble a donkey 
Avlien some one is getting too familiar with his tail ; 
and thus it went for an hour or more, when we noticed 
the " Wyoming " bearing down on us rapidly, every 
dip of her bow lifting tons of water up and around 
her, and scattering it in spray, and soon she passed 
us, just as though we had been at anchor. 

'Twas about this time — the clouds becoming thicker 
and blacker, the sea becoming rougher — huge waves 
came rolling and breaking against the strong sides of 
the steamer, giving her the " Boston dip " badly, while 
the waves she scooped up at her bow came rolling over 
her spacious deck, and then " Carlisle " had a dreadful 
feeling that his pockets had been picked. His hands 
moved in the vicinity of his watch-chain; it was not 
gone ; the buttons, too, were all on his vest and coat, 
but there was an awful feeling of fullness in that 
section. We observed, also, that our good friend, the 
Doctor, had a bad attack of imitation about that time 
too ; he was evidently very nervous about whether his 
clothes fitted him correctly, or that he had taken an 
overdose of our friend Stackhouse's garden vegetables, 
the cucumbers, and they had not agreed with him. 
Consolingly we looked at each other, sympathetic 
glances were frequently exchanged ; we inwardly took 
back all we had said to and about any of our fellow 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 335 

■" Crusaders " going- over ; we secretly turned our eyes 

heavenward and said, " Never — well, ha very seldom 

we mean, will we ever again poke fun at any " Cru- 
sader," or any other person, if only forgiven for the 
past, and let off from this approaching 'onpleasantness." 
In our deck-chairs, huddled all up, sat we two poor 
wear}^ pilgrims, feeling as though a Krupp gun had 
poured its contents against the second lower vest button, 
iind had there failed to perform its terrible mission of 
death. On either side of us were fellow-passengers who 
but a short time before were all pleasant smiles and jo}^- 
ful conversation, who had now the appearance of having 
had a severe Caudle lecture — husbands and wives looked 
as if the}' were on the "outs," bachelors and maidens 
as though a telegram had reached them telling them of 
some loved one gone, while occasionally — no, not oc- 
casionall}^, but very frequently — some idiot would rush 
to the side of the vessel to look for the " Wj^oming,'' 
when that boat was long before out of sight, and then 
because they could n't see her, would get mad foolishly, 
and expectorate at the innocent sea. 

It was 5:30, and the preparatory dinner bell rang. 
We remarked to the Doctor ; " say ' Doctor,' what's the 
use of giving way this way ? Let us brace up and 
work this thing off." That remark and resolution was 
fatal. " Carlisle" went down to " prepare" (prepare is 
good,) and no sooner had we reached our room than 
that settled it — we dashed up the stairway like a mad- 
man pursued by a million demons." The vessel was 



336 Crusade to Europe 



pitching and rolling terribly now, and we made for our 
friend the " Doctor," and announced our " preparation' 
to go to the wheelhouse, and asked the " Doctor" if he 
also was prepared? He replied, "Carlisle," I'll never 
leave you ; we've stuck together thus far, I'll stand by 
you now." We never saw a more accommodating, self- 
sacrificing man than the Doctor, never — nothing mean 
about the Doctor, I tell you. 

Linked arm in arm we moved toward the wheelhouse, 
and to the rear of the same, too, rather more rapidly 
than gracefully, each with a handkerchief over his nose 
and mouth, as from our tender natui*es we feared the 
severe sea breeze would give us a severe cold, of course, 
but we arrived there only to find all the available railing- 
space occupied, and a ticket up "Standing Room 
Only." A few miserable people in the way did n't make 
any difference at all ; everybody is aristocratic when sea- 
sick. We transacted such business as called us there, in 
a highly satisfactory manner, as Old Neptune can file 
his affidavit to, upon application to his oflSce in that 
vicinit3\ It is just about at the point where a remarka- 
bly intelligent and all-wise 3'oung man of our party 
said he saw the track of a vessel that had crossed our 
course during the preceding night. We retired to our 
deck-chairs well satisfied with the manner we carried out 
our part of the programme ; we seated ourselves, and 
then the dinner-bell rang. Now, there is nothing on 
earth or ocean will make a man sicker than he ever was 
before than to hear the abominable dinner-bell when he 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 337 



is laboring under a state of " un-com-for-ta-ble-ness," 
and see a lot of healthy-livered gentlemen go down and 
come np, puffed and gorged, and saucily pick their teeth, 
and laugh a hearty guffaw ! 

We saw all this, and again took a promenade to the 
vicinity of the ensign staff, to rehearse our Knights of 
Submission ritual and signs in secrecy ; but most of the 
passengers presumed we belonged to some terrible dark 
lantern society, and had the unmannerly and vulgarly 
presumption to come poking around just when we 
wanted to be alone, and though we gazed out longingly 
at the turbulent waters and quoted poetry, the pass- 
engers on board that vessel insisted on coming where we 
were, and standing round against that railing, and not. 
one of them had their backs to it, and strange too, all 
were weeping — at the eyes, nose and earthly tabernacle 
of the mouth, particularly the lattei". "We felt sorry for 
them all, for the sad and solemn sight was more than we 
could possibl}'' withstand, in fact we were weeping 
harder than any of them ourselves. Oh ! if we had 
onl}^ been just then on the " Kaiser Wilhelm" going up 
the Rhine, or we would willingly undergo an initiatioa 
in the K, of S.; and then we just reckoned that, being 
now about fifty miles out from Ireland, we only had 
about thirty-one hundred and fifty more to go, and that 
thought was a pleasing one. 

Finally we retired to our little cots in the cellar 
attic, and soon were sound asleep, oblivions of all we 
had just passed through. Of course, our readers will 

v 



338 Crusade to Europe 

'iiever infer that we were sea-sick. We fear we inay 
liave given the impression now tliat we have written it, 
"that from the frequenc}^ of onr visits to the British 
ensign, we strayed tliither witli tlie intention of making 
-ourselves and the ship lighter and the ocean fuller ; but 
we beg not to be mistaken or misunderstood, we 
■only went there to compare that liorrible red flag to 
our beautiful starry blue field and its stripes — the 
most beautiful flag of the grandest nation on earth. 

Through the still watches of the night we had 
the cheerful habit of getting down from our shelves 
and gazing intently at the fearfully and wonderfully 
made and soldered tin pails. We could see no 
patentable improvement that could be placed on them, 
and so retired, only to awaken to flnd the vexed 
question still troubling our minds ; and it was cer- 
tainly strange that the same thought came upon us 
both, and singular that we both came down to ex- 
amine the inner side; and from the manner in which 
our minds were troubled on that night, we are still 
satisfied that somewhere or somehow we could have 
made an improvement on them, had we continued to 
devote our time more steadily to the study thereof. 
For three days such were the proceedings ; one day 
we were all sitting up in a little place we had chris- 
tened the "Rookery," looking as though our lower 
jaws had dropped in some unexplainable manner 
when we heard a crack, and over the ship's bow, 
smokestack and all, came about a ton or so of water, 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 339 

and we received a batli which laid the Colonel's on the 
" Russia" completely in the shade. The}^ had on board 
some very fine ginger snaps, and one day we overheard 
tile Doctor say, " Steward, bring me a few ginger 
snaps, will you, please? " He brought him t — w — o, 
(2,) and we heard the Doctor, as he lifted the two 
innocent little snaps, say " Yes, that's the kind ; the 
samples are all right, now bring along your stock." 

But all things have an end ; long and weary seem- 
ingly as was our homeward passage, we had a pleas- 
ant time of it, with pleasant people on board, and 
the first three days of our voyage over, we had the 
remainder truly delightful. 

The " Wyoming" had arrived and preceded us up 
to IsTew York city, and disembarked her passengers 
and baggage some twelve or fourteen hours prior to 
us. Here, through the courtesy and kindness of our 
friend, E. M. Jenkins, Esq., we were met by a young 
man sent by him to help us through the Custom 
House, and without any detention we were passed and 
going it alone to the Pennsylvania Railroad Depot. 
And twenty-four hours after our arrival in New York 
we were with our friends and families in the good old 
city of Allegheny, and the " Second Crusade of Alle- 
gheny Commandery,'' so far as we were concerned, 
was finished. 

We take great pleasure, before closing, in annexing 
hereto a letter received from our Captain-General, who, 
with some ten or more separated from the main body 



340 Crusade to Europe 



of the Commanclery at Geneva, and compassed what 
was known as the " Italian Section," they, under the 
care of a guide proceeding from Geneva and Swiss 
scener}^, going over the Alps into sunny Italy ; and the 
following letter, condensed as it is, gives some slight 
idea of the beauties of that land of the fig and olive. It 
is addressed to two Sir Knights who preceded him home, 
and though perhaps a breach of faith to produce it all, 
yet we believe always in telling the whole story. 




OF Allegheny Commandery. 341 



& 



^eftief^ Mo. 9. 

Extracts from Letter -written by the Captain-General, 
"W. C. Moreland, Esq., "while doing the Italian Sec- 
tion, -with part of the Crusaders. — Description of 
Scenery and Art. 

Florence, Italy, September 2, 18*78. 
My Beloved Goiivpanions : 

(^ AM in the heat, under the sky, and surrounded by 
the fruit of Italy. With all these luxuries I do not 
forget the pilgrims of the west. The Colonel, Ful- 
lerton and Clinton are quietly reposing around me, look- 
ing for all the world like the " Three Graces," while I, 
sober and wakeful, sit down to tell you at least that we 
are not dead. 

The Colonel insists, however, that after a person 
has written up an " Itinerary," to prepare which he must 
work all night, he ought to have some little rest. He 
insists that his is the hardest part of the task, and this 
morning reported that the work had been completed up 
to twelve o'clock last night. He says his hardest work 
was in Venice, arising from the fact that all the streets 
being water he found it somewhat difficult to walk 
around. I can assure you, however, he accomplished 
the duties devolving upon him. He is now engaged in 



342 Crusade 'io Europe 



his leisure hours in studying tlie liistory and biograpliy 
of the streets of this " Queen of the Adriatic." It puz- 
zles him to know whether they belong to the Roman- 
esque, the Byzantum or Rennaissance st3^1e ; or whether 
they are not a style of their own. He insists the town 
has never been laid out " on the square,'' or in any other 
special way. I have implicit faith in the Colonel, and 
know he will yet solve the problem ; meantime he rests 
like a lamb and snores like a virgin. * * * 

I can assure you the compass of sight-seeing, pleasure 
and enjoyment has been completely boxed by us. Sober, 
steady and sedate we have gone about the work and 
mission of the trip, regardless of all side issues and 
those little things which are the annoyance of small 
minds. (He here alludes to the Doctor, undoubtedly.) 
Pensive and particular we wander about, as pure as 
lilies and as meek as bare-footed monks. Disdaining all 
concealment we move to our allotted business with pre- 
cision, regularity and cheerfulness. We are as choice 
and select in our habits and tastes as a band of vestal 
virgins. We run the risk of being called haughty, and 
proud and selfish ; but what of that? Doth not a good 
thing suffer persecution ? And are we not all good and 
correspondingly happy ? Methinks I hear thee smile at 
the base vanity. " Smile on, ye scoffers at the pure and 
the good ! " If you do wonder at crime, think not that 
we are base plebeians and low-born serfs, '^ay ! by my 
foot, rather are we " Cook's men," loyally and lovingij'' 
followino; the noble duke " who leadeth us." Fortune 



op^ Allegheny Commandery. 343 

favors the brave and fortune favors us. We scoff at the 
poor and lowly ones who suffer on in an eight by ten, 
whilst the chosen ones roam the broad world o'er. We 
pity the poor. (We do not know what the writer of this 
letter had against the Doctor, to peg away at him in that 
style.) 

But, my beloved and devoted companions, you will 
wonder what all this has to do with a trip on foreign 
shores, and how you are to extract any benefit from this 
nonsense. More seriouslj^ addressing myself to the 
business on hand, let me say I have sighed for an hour 
in which to write you a note. We have thought of 3'ou, 
and talked about you every day since parting company, 
and at each stopping point I contemplated writing a 
word, but found almost every moment engrossed by 
special business. 

I need hardly say to you that our trip has been as a 
"feast of fat things." I do not think it possible for 
persons to liave more pleasure and profit on a trip -than 
we have had. At each place of moment we. have been 
able to secure a good guide, and as a result have seen 
every point of interest in the places visited. Our jour- 
ney through Italy has been a succession of delights. 
This laud of the fig and olive deserves ail the praise, 
poet and painter have given it. 

The plains of Lombardy and Yenezia are a panorama 
of beaiTty — wide extending, level and fertile— you are 
greeted at every point with rare and rich charms, and 
besides this it teems with a history that seems like a 
romance. Its lakes are charming, picturesque and 



344 Crusade to Europe 



inviting. Como, Lugano and Maggiore are complete. 
The calm, blue waters, the commanding hills, the exqui- 
site foliage, and the beautiful villas and villages, make a 
landscape of rich variety and profusion, and to add to 
the luxury of the physical j^ou have a sunset of gorgeous 
magnificence. The impressions made upon my mind are 
indestructible and wonderfully sweet. Then, too, you 
have the cities, full of life, activity and culture, and with 
tliat wealtii which gives an air of easy independence. 

To crown this, antiquity and the present join in con- 
tributing the wealth and very prodigality of their genius 
to these great cities, to make them the wonder and 
admiration of mankind. Here art, science, literature 
and labor have made their offerings, and found their 
homes. Amidst the decay, the struggles, and the 
vicissitudes of the past much still remains to mark the 
glory and renown of the past. It is impossible to 
contemplate these homes without a veneration which 
amounts to a passion. 

I have ceased to marvel at the people clinging to 
their homes, although the very act means for them toil, 
labor, often penur^^, without the hope of reward or 
independence. There is so much to lure, charm and 
soothe that toil loses its pain and labor its aching. 
Besides all this there is a history complete and wonder- 
ful of this Latin race. The fairest fields have ever and 
anon been plowed up with fierce contention. Grim 
visaged war has been a companion through the centuries. 
Ambition has held high carnival, and the worst passions 
of men have found Italj- a home for freest indulgence 



OF Allegheny Commandery. . 345 

Solferino and Areole are but mile posts indicating 
the march. From the day when Hannibal met and 
defeated Scipio, down to the day of the peace of Yilla- 
franca, Italy has been the home and empire of war. Is 
it not strange that all hope, energy, liberty, literature 
and art had not long since quitted her fields ? And is it 
not a wonder that in the face of this bitter and relent- 
less warring, there should remain a single vestige of her 
past glory and the brilliant achievements of her sons ? 

Yet, so it is. With all this bloody past, Italy is 
still the guardian watcher over the arts of the past, 
and the precious productions of the ages. Music, paint- 
ing and statuary have made their home in this fair land, 
and embellished it with all that taste and culture could 
do. 

I have been absolutely enraptured, as I have been 
privileged to walk through the galleries, and visit the 
homes sanctified b3'^ the cultivated genius of the past. 
Then, too, I have felt an admiration for the " old 
church," such as I never had before, as the absolute 
fact presented itself, that amidst all that decay, de- 
bauchery, licentiousness, and wrongs of her past 
histor}', she alone has been the friend and custodian 
of art. Say what we please, and think as we ma}^, 
3'et the truth is, that but for the taste, fidelity and 
liberality of the Catholic Church, the world would 
not to-day have a trace or vestige of Raphael, Angelo, 
Canova, Titian, Rubens, Tan Dyck or Tinterretto. 



34^ Crusade to Europe 



False to a thousand things, and guilty of unmeas- 
ured wrong and duplicity in the eyes of history, she 
has remained ever true and faithful in keeping and 
perpetuating these great names and still greater works. 
Her domes, her aisles, naves, niches and vaults are 
filled with the master work of these master minds. 
Let us remember, too, that this church not only encour- 
aged and compensated the labor of this divine genius, 
but she afforded the only possible avenue for its de- 
velopment. Great souls will ever treasure and praise 
the faith, zeal, judgment and liberality which resulted 
in perpetuating these triumphs of the human mind, then 
too, the glorious splendor of the churches overwhelms- 
the mind. 

You have seen the Cathedral at Antwerp, and bowed 
your heads over the matchless painting of Rubens, yet 
that Church, with its rich treasures, is but an epitome 
of that which we have seen almost every day. What 
the Alps are to the phj^sical world, these churches are 
in architectural beauty, completeness and finish. 

The Church of St. Marco, in Yenice, is supreme in 
the profusion of its stores, and the completeness of its 
decorations. The entire floor is one continuous mosaic. 
The work and wealth of a century have been contributed 
to adorn and beautify this structure. With her por- 
phyry, and her pillars of pure alabaster, brought from 
the Temple of Solomon, her wooden work and bronze 
stolen from the Church of St. Sophia, in Constanti- 
nople, (the church of Constantine,) her bronze horses- 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 347 

surmovintiwg tlie dome, and her stained-glass windows, 
centuries old, you have a sight and a gem which 
dazzles and bewilders. Then comes Milan, with her 
towering and colossal Cathedral, and Strassburg, and 
Florence, each in its turn contributing to increase your 
amazement and strengthen your admiration. 

Another thing is, they indicate every style of archi- 
tecture known to or devised by man, just as the paint- 
ings which they contain mark the progress or decline of 
art, and faithfully represent the style and characteristics 
of each school. But I might write you for hours in this 
train, and it would only result in increasing your desire 
to see without really interesting you as to what I have 
seen. But what a grand thing it is to be privileged to 
travel a little ; my trip has been water to a parched 
tongue. Doubtless it will increase my interest in study- 
ing and reading, and will largely embellish what I have 

T»£1Q /N Sji ^ ^ 5jC SjS ^ 

In Venice we had the great pleasure of visiting the 
palace of the Doges ; the prison, the senate, the rooms 
of the Council of Three and Ten, and then the " Bridge 
of Sighs." For hours we wandered through this 
strange, terrible building, and recalled the gloomy history 
and the bloody deeds wrapped in the walls of a building 
which had once been the home of men who were " faith- 
ful among the faithless found," 

From this point we started on a general tour, visiting 
the home of Lucretia Borgia, Tasso, Othello, Desde- 
mona, the office and warehouse of Shylock, the tombs 



348 Crusade to Europe 



of Canova and Titian, the palaces of the rich, the furni- 
ture of Marie Antoinette, — stucco work unsurpassed for 
elegance and completeness — the grand Canal, the Rialto, 
and a hundred other points about which I hope we will 
be able to talk when " Johnny comes marching home." 

From Venice we came here, on our way, plowing 
through the Apennines and crossing the water slied of 
the Adriatic and the Tyrrhean seas, and having withal an 
elegant ride. To-morrow we expect to leave for Rome, 
when we anticipate a grand time roaming round the 
" Ancient City," amid its antiquities and arts. "^ * 

I have written you this letter jointly because of want 
of time to write you separately. I hope it may be 
acceptable to you as coming from one who is 
Faithfully yours, 

W. C. MORELAND. 

The Italian Section of the Commandery were some 
four weeks longer out than the others, and sailed from 
Liverpool on September 28th, arriving safe, hearty and 
well in New York on October 6th, thus completing, with 
this party finally home, the entire programme as laid 
down for Allegheny Commandery's Second " Crusade." 




OK Allegheny Commandery. " 349 



(^j^EFORE concluding this work, liumbly as it is 
done, and hastily prepared as it has been, allow 
us to look over hurriedly, our party, our work, 
the success of the " Crusade '' and the admirable arrange- 
ments made for us, and under which we have traveled. 

First, let us remark, that any mention of any of the 
party of "18, made in any of these pages, has been in the 
very best and kindest of spirit and humor as towards 
each individual member of the " Crusading Pilgrims " 
without one single exception, we hold no other thought 
than kindness and good feeling, and if mentioned herein, 
the intention is far from any motive to jeer or wound, 
but as stated in the full intent of kindly feeling. 

Of Eminent Sir Lee S. Smith, the Eminent Com- 
mander of the Commandery during the pilgrimage, 
he is so well known to the citizens of Allegheny County, 
that no word of ours can make him the better 
acquainted with our home readers. We can cheerfully 
and honestly pay to him this tribute, a heart full of 
sympathy, encouragement and good will, a character 
sterling in all of its qualities, a companion in travel, 
social, jovial and genial, without a trait of doing away 
from home that which he would not do while at home, 



350 • Crusade to Europe 



and in liim was the authority of conducting the " Cru- 
sade " justly placed, as its Eminent Commander, fitted 
in every way for the high position he then enjoyed. 

We shall never forget our handsome, stately new- 
made friend Eminent Sir John Amsden, of Versailles, 
Kentucky, the Generalissimo of the " Crusade." A 
friend first, last and all the time ; affable and pleasant, a 
merry twinkle in his eye and always a cheerful good 
word for every person ; and, although old Father Time 
lias slightly powdered his hair with the frosts of sixty 
winters, yet we trust many, many years will our good 
friend be spared to think over the " Crusade '' of "78. 

Our Captain-General, Sir "William C. Moreland, a 
gentleman whose name is as familiar to every one in 
Western Pennsylvania, as is the President of the United 
States, with a reputation wide-spread over the entire 
good old Keystone State, in whose company we were 
closely allied on our tour, is a companion whose gentle- 
manly bearing, kind-heartedness and scholastic require- 
ments shall ever be remembered with the greatest 
pleasure. Nothing was proposed but in what he would 
most heartily concur, and all his actions utterly and to- 
tally debarred from an3'thing appertaining to the selfish. 
With his ever ready flow of unexcelled language and 
oratory, with his beautiful metaphors and full rounded 
periods, carrying the hearts of all his listeners with him, 
did he reflect great credit upon the party, and we are 
sure a never-to-be-forgotten share upon himself. His 
companionship will be remembered always as one of the 
most pleasant features of the pilgrimage. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 351 

Two better, truer Sir Knights or gentlemen never 
entered an Asylum than Sirs William Fullerton and 
Edward F. Clinton, of Black Hawk, Colorado. Meeting 
as entire strangers their many good qualities endeared 
them to all, and we are certain the impression made by 
these two gentlemen will be long, pleasant and bright in 
the memories of those who were their fellow travelers. 

Need we refer to our life-long friend Em. Sir Wm. H. 
Slack, the worthy Prelate of Allegheny Commandery, a 
gentleman we can almost remember from infancy, and 
with years of intimacy and friendship passing over our 
heads, we have never either by thought, word or deed 
known him to be other than a genuine man, the highest 
title possible to be given to the highest work of God's 
creation. Neither by word or action have we ever 
known him say a solitary unkind word concerning auy- 
body, but a good word for every one, behind their back 
as before their face, which in the seeming perversity of 
to-day, is a rare exception. Our years of intimacy and 
friendship were to the writer only more and more 
enhanced b}^ our fellowship on this tour, and our sincere 
trust is that he may long continue to go in and out of 
Alleghen}^ Commandery, as well as in his private walks 
of life, a worthy citizen, an honorable gentleman, cher- 
ished by all that know him. 

We take special pleasure in referring to Sir J. D. 
Landis, of Coatesville, Pa., on his first European trip, 
and as our first acquaintance commenced with this 
" Crusade," with abundant opportunities to prove a man 
as the old saying is, " by living with him for a while," 



352 Crusade to Europe 



we think of him as a sterling young man in every 
particular, every word betokening him a thorough gen- 
tleman and genial friend. 

As happy a recollection ns we have of any in the 
pai'ty is of the person with whom perhaps we never 
would have become acquainted, had it not been for his 
" bath at sea," a person to whom everything the opposite 
of true manhood was an utter stranger, one in whom 
every reliance could be placed, one in whom every 
action was cool and deliberate ; one in whom the 
instinct of a gentleman was plainly written on his 
countenance ; one in whom was straight-forwardness ; 
one in whom was honor, bright, pure and simple ; one 
in whom the many admirable qualities he possessed 
were frequent marks of admiration, and one whose con- 
tinuous affabilitj^, geniality and true friendship will ever 
be remembered as an evening star in the constellation of 
happy events, daily occurring on our " Crusade " — we 
refer to our friend Colonel Samuel McConihe, of the 
United States arni}^, with a record as bright in his 
country's service as his social qualities on such a fur- 
lough as this; and we do not say one word here for the 
mere sake of saying it, but from personal inquiry at the 
proper place, the fountain-head of reliable information, 
and for this reason we take special pleasure in paying 
-this little tribute to one well deserving the name of man, 
soldier, friend. 

We can speak only in the kindest of terms of Sir 
James C. Rafferty, who, poor fellow, suffered fearfully 
on our outward passage, not from sea-sickness so much 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 353 



as from general debility, and when leaving the steamer 
at Ireland, was a perfect skeleton, but thanks to good 
care, kind friends round and about him he was soon 
made hale and hearty, and no better person was enrolled 
on the Roster of the Commandery than the young 
gentleman we haA^e just named. 

Most agreeably surprised were we in our worthy Sir 
Knights J. Fred Beilstein and James Milliken, who 
proved to be the most agreeable of traveling companions, 
ready at all times to lend their aid to anything condu- 
cive to the pleasure of others, and better hearted men 
have 3^et to tread this earth than these two Sir Knights. 

We can speak with pleasure of Sirs George S. Eyster, 
O. H. Brusie, Robert J. Baxter, A. 0. Baker, Jesse L. 
Stackhouse, (now deceased,) Edward L. Schroder and 
George S. Haines ; all agreeable and pleasant, though 
but one was really a member of Allegheny Commander}'-, 
the remainder being from foreign Commanderies, that is, 
foreign to Allegheny County, 

Em. Sir Robert Morris, L. L. D., is well known 
all over the United States as a writer and poet of note,, 
his Masonic lectures and writings being almost in every 
library in this country and British domains. 

We were never more agreeably surprised, nor did we 
have more pleasure, than when our old time friend 
William M. Herron, M. D., was booked with the " Cru- 
saders " for the European pilgrimage, though he made 
up his mind within only twenty- four hours of the 

w 



554 



Crusaue to Europe 



departure of the Commandery from home, which neces- 
sitated considerable lively telegraphing to secure him 
and his two daughters accommodations with the party. 
Our acquaintance with Dr. Herron dates back with that 
of Prof. Slack, to earliest remembrance and infancy, and 
aside from his skillful hand at many times bringing us 
through the days of illness, his own social and sterling 
qualities would endear him to any who may have the 
good fortune to claim his acquaintance. We have ever 
known him as a friend, and going etway from home 
almost a total physical wreck from overwork in the pur- 
suit of his profession, at which he has the honor to stand 
at the head, none hailed with more true and sincere 
delight, that return of good health and ph^'-sical rebuild- 
ing, of which he stood greatly in need, than do we, and 
we are certain in the thought that his trip to Europe 
was simply taking a re-lease for an extension of life. 'No 
better man lives than our good friend Dr. Wm. M. Herron. 

Another member of the medical profession with us 
was Dr. A. Dudley, of Salem, Mass. ; a gentleman though 
we had never had the pleasure of meeting before, was 
one we were pleased to meet then, and we shall always 
remember our vis-a-vis at the table on board ship, who 
stood by the Colonel, the writer and one or two others, 
when all the rest of our comrades had deserted their posts. 

Pleasant corners in memory's room have been made 
for Messrs. William E. Corey, E. W. Parker, Jacob 
Laucks, Frank Heath, and H. C. Levis, of whom we 
have the most pleasant recollections. 



•OF Allegheny Commandery. 355 

We may be considered guilty of most ungallaiit 
acts in going over the names of tlie gentleman portion 
of the roster first, but we alwaj'-s hold our best card 
to the very last in all things, so now let us speak for 
a moment of the female portion of the body, the roses 
and flowers of creation — the ladies of our party, ten 
of whom accompanied the Commandery on her pilgrim- 
age. It would seem almost incredible, but it was none 
the less the truth, that from the time of leaving the 
Union Depot in Pittsburgh, until the time of our separa- 
tion, moving rapidly as we did, up in the morning- 
early, making close connections with trains and steamers, 
not one single moment of detention to one or any 
occurred through or b}' one of the ladies ; never from 
one came a word of complaint as to weariness or being 
tired, but from one and all in the morning came a 
happy smile and a cheerful " Good morning," while at 
night came as cheerfully a pleasant " Good night," 
and to each one individually of the ladies, as well as 
collectively, do we attribute much of the pleasure en- 
joj'Cd by us while in their compan3\ 

If we have spoken in words, sincere as they are, 
praiseworthy' of the gentlemen, we can not sa.y too 
much of the lady portion of our little band. More 
kind persons than our fellow citizens, Mrs, William H. 
Slack and Mrs. E. C. Rafferty, could hardly possibly be 
found, who were ever as ready with needle, thread and 
buttons for us, as though under the protecting wings 
of our own dear mothers, while any little headache or 



356 Crusade to Europe 



other trifling ailment were as carefully asked for as 
though at home, and now we claim we have about 
half a dozen mothers, which is we think highly prefer- 
able to having none. 

As we write these pages, the cheerful smiles of the 
good-natured Mrs. Mifflin and her beautiful and charm- 
ing daughter, Mrs. Frohock, are as distinct in our mind's 
eye as though we were shaking hands with each, and 
saying emphatically, " How do you do ? " " How are 
you to-day ? " 

One of the most indefatigable travelers and tourists 
we have ever had the pleasure of seeing — for we 
delight in seeing a good traveler, particularly a lady — 
was our pleasant and entertaining young lady friend, 
Miss Ella M. Carr, of Jersey City, who evidently left 
home, not for the empty sake of saying on her return, 
'' I have been to Europe," but for a visit of profit, 
pleasure and instruction, Though she knew not, care- 
fully we noticed her mind ran not upon things pi-esent, 
dress and gossip of the day. We cannot recall an 
instance of overhearing the latest sensation in Jersey 
City, the newest romance of some belle or beau, but 
we did observe she had the knack of seeing every- 
thing worth}- of seeing on such a trip, and none 
would return home with more knowledge of historical 
places and things, that will prove interesting to her 
friends, and a pleasure and satisfaction to herself, than 
would Miss Carr. She went to see, not to talk ; was not 
thoroughly posted in everybody's business, but knowing 



OF Allegheny CommXndery. 357 



her own fullj^, she profited every day by laying away 
in the granary of the mind some fresh grain of thought 
that will always prove fresh and useful. Such a person 
it is a pleasure to meet and to see. In like manner 
might we also speak of Miss Susan M, Leverich, whose 
mind was a perfect storehouse of historical knowl- 
edge ; for having never before been to the European 
side of old Atlantic, from her book knowledge of its 
topography, its castles, its origin, its date, she ap- 
peared as familiar with the ground over which we 
had trod as though it were her daily walk in former 
jT^ears. 

Mrs. Schroder, upon her bridal tour is pleasantly 
associated with others, and we shall particularly re- 
member her for one remarkable thing in a lady, a 
precious gift we are prone to call it, that of silence 
on points belonging to herself, and proves silence to 
be golden. This will appear all the more remarka- 
ble that though on her bridal trip, married but a 
day or so prior to leaving New York, so completely 
was the fact ignored by herself and husband, that 
not for several weeks after our leaving home was 
the fact of a bridal pair in our party known, and 
then it became known only through the merest accident. 
This of itself will speak more for the good sense and 
character of the lady than words we might choose 
to state here in reference to her. She and her good 
husband have our best wishes for many years of 
pleasant association, and may the fire built upon, the 



558 Crusa.de to Europe 



altar of connubial bliss, started when Allegheny 
Oommandery made her second European Crusade, ever 
burn brightly in the fireside of happiness and pros- 
perity, the flames constantly fanned by the power of 
Love, with the date of July, 1818, as the time the 
spark commenced to ignite the fire which shall ever 
glow mildly upon the hearth-stone of their wedded 
career. 

Three young ladies in our part}', merry and spark- 
ling, full of the sunshine and beauty of youth, were 
the Misses Mary and Nannie B. Herron, and Miss 
Lillian B. Patterson, each of whom, with their pleasant 
natures and beaming countenances, contributed in a 
large degree to the pleasure of their fellow com- 
panions. As we trod the deck of the steamer, sat 
down with them at the tables of the hotels, as we 
sat with them in the same places of worship, or as 
we gracefully as possible lifted our hats to them 
upon the streets in foreign climes, we were constantl}'- 
reminded of home, and what is true of the others, 
is true also of them ; nothing but a pleasant coun- 
tenance from each greeted all with whom they were 
acquainted. And since we arrived home, one of the 
young ladies has become the loving and estimable young 
wife of a most estimable young man; we consider 
it one of our greatest pleasures in this place, as a 
fellow-traveler and " Crusader," to extend to that 
young lady our sincere and hearty congratulations 
upon her entrance into our ranks, viz: among the 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 359 

married portion of society, and from our heart we 
earnestly wish tliat the very smallest portion of 
earth's sorrows allotted to poor humanity, may be 
the share of she and her husband, that having kissed 
the morning of happiness by the advent from the 
days of maiden, into the more responsible years of 
wifehood, that her happiness shall be bright, pure, 
clear and sparkling as the rivulet, flowing from its 
cool mountain home, and as the dew-drop upon the 
leaf glistening in the glad morning sun, which shall 
never dim nor fade awa}^ is the true and heartfelt 
wish of " Carlisle." Having spoken thus of our 
traveling companions, let us look for a moment at 
the admirable arrangements under which we traveled 
while on our " Crusade." 

TRAVELING ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE PARTY. 

As stated in the very earliest portion of this work, 
our arrangements were made by E. M. Jenkins, Esq., 
a fellow frater of Allegheny Commandery, a gentle- 
man of large experience in traveling matters, who 
through hard efforts built up one of the most gigantic 
tourist agencies ever seen in the United States, whose 
business with one railroad in America amounted to 
hundreds of thousands of dollars per annum, to him 
we are largely indebted for the completeness and 
successful carrying out of the programme laid down 
at the start, now let us see what this embraced and 
what a convenience his system for us was. Stepijing 
into his office we pay our expenses for the tour, 



Crusade to Europe 



whicli covers everything, from the commencement to 
the end of the Crusade. We carry no tickets ; on 
our arrival at Queenstown we were met by Mr. C. 
P. Cooper, who was to be our guide in Ireland ; we 
were spoken to by no j^erson, never handled our 
baggage, paid no attention whatever to it, and it was 
a singular thing to us at first on our arrival at the 
Victoria Hotel, in Cork, to be asked by the Hotel 
manager, " what is your name, sir '( " " Carlisle, 
sir," we replied. "Show Mr. -Carlisle' up to No. 
68, John ! " the clerk would say, and being shown 
thither, there on a little table stood our baggage, 
all ready to be unlocked, and the same proceeding- 
would occur on leaving the Hotel ; simpl}'- turning 
the key in the lock, we would go away, never speak- 
ing of baggage to anyone, and that would be the 
last we would see of it until the next place was 
reached, when would come the same question, " your 
name, sir?" "'Carlisle,' sir!" "Show Mr. 'Carlisle' 
to No. 11, Mike!" and there in No. 11 stood our 
baggage again, the same as ever. We could not un- 
derstand this for quite a little while, but the modus 
operandi is this : the hotel proprietors are all fur- 
nished with printed lists of the party, with the date the 
party will arrive there, whether single or married, and 
each name assigned to a room, so that immediately 
on ' entering a hotel and hearing your name he knows 
precisely where to locate you. Then you have no bills 
to pa^^, you walk into your room, to the table, and 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 361 

out from it, and no one says, "whither goest thou?" 
You have no biclcerings witli hotel proprietors as to 
the size of your bill, and extortionate charges. One 
most fortunate thing, and we think the greatest bless- 
ing in it all, was the fact of having nothing to do 
with porters, particularly in Ireland, and we looked 
on with the most intense satisfaction conceivable, at 
the poor fellows lugging around immense Saratogas 
and two-story mansard roof trunks, knowing we had 
not to give them a solitary cent. 

Speaking of Mr. Cooper, we may say, and in 
which we will be heartily seconded by anyone and 
all of our party, that in every respect he is a thorough 
gentleman ; never out of humor, understanding his 
business thoroughly, no troubles under his supervision 
occurring, nor confusion existing under his care ; at 
least, if any did occur, none save himself ever knew 
of them. He cared for all in general, saw personally 
to every little wish and comfort, and made every, 
if any dissatisfaction occurred, clear and smooth, and 
we pledge him the word of a Knight of Submission, 
that if he will come out and see America, " we will 
make it pleasant for him." It was the handiest pos- 
sible kind of arrangement, to go in and out, pa^'ing 
no bills, simply picking up j^our cane and umbrella, 
putting on j^our duster and leaving the town, only 
to proceed to the next, where it was ditto, ditto. 
No rail road conductor to bother you ; no shouting 
in your eai'S "Tickets! tickets, gentlemen ! " but just 
follow your leader. 



362 Crusade to Europe 



^ 



At every railway station were in Avaiting for us 
waggonettes, or jaunting cars or omnibuses, in which 
we were conveyed to and from the hotels and depots. 
It would be a particularly fine convenience for ladies 
traveling alone, unaccustomed to the usages, language 
and moneys of foreign countries, if only for the one 
thing of avoiding the pestering and abominations of 
the most consummate begging to be seen anywhere 
in the world. If a man lifts his liat, nods, winks at 
you, moves your satchel an inch or so, it is expected 
that from a sixpence to a half-crown will be forth- 
coming at once. But if a person makes the trip two 
or three times, they become thoroughly hardened to 
the pitiful wailings of these scoundrels, for b}^ some 
instinctive means, we think, by the use of some one 
of the five senses, or all combined, they just know 
when to let a man alone, or for how much they 
can bleed him. 

By the arrangements, also, we had ponies in waiting' 
for us, to convey the party through the Grap of Dunloe, 
while the party taking in the Italian section of tlie 
tour, had ponies and donkeys in waiting for them 
wherever necessary. Not one fault could be found 
in any of the arrangements, so completely and ad- 
mirably prepared by our friend, Mr. Jenkins. 

We do not think this work would be complete 
without the including a letter, received by the writer, 
showing how the order of Knights of Submission 
had taken deep root in the mind of, at least, one 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 363 



of our . fellow-countrymen, subsequent to ^ the pitbli- 
cation of its noble principles and precepts. This we 
give verbatim, and the answer given to the same. 
It is dated : 

Break Neck, Buller Co., Pa., February loth, 1879. 
Dee7- Sir: 

i hev red yure letters by Mr. Carlisle, an liked Them very 
Mutch, espesily the last One givin an Account of That one hundreth 
Degree, i hev always wanted To join the masons But hev not done 
so fur 2 Reasons, 

1st. they Charge two Mutch and i Am poor. 

2d. my Folks are All covenanters and u. p.'s, and they are All 
Opposed to cecret OrganisaShuns they Cant get in. 

3d. i hev Always been affraid They wouldn't hev me. Every 
time they hev got an organisashun in Imitation of The masons, I hev 
sad thot i would Try and get In, but hev Always Put it off Till they 
got Started, then they charged 2 Mutch, and Black Baled 2, so i Am 
still out. 

Ever since you Spoke of The new order last month i hev ben 
anxis to join, and Ben wating for The next number of youre Paper 
to see All about it, and After readin' All about it, i think It Is just 
, The thing i want. 

As you dont sa whoo is grand mogul Now, — whether That big 
Night Mr. lee, or who— an As you hev the Biggest milatery Title, i 
write to you fur infurmation; an You will Oblige me 2 Anser The 
following questions : 

1st. Who Is the officers Now, an do You intend to start uther 
Branches of the order. 

2nd. how Mutch do You charge fur i or more ; an would The 
1st wun be the grand Mogul Of the new Branch? 

3rd. how would we hev to do — Come to allegheny to Get the 
degrees, Or would yure grand Mogul come Out hear if We paid him. 

4th. do you hev a Printed Book 2 Tell How 2 initiate Persons 
into The Order, and how Mutch are they ? 



^64 Crusade to Europe 



5th. What hez thot Itinery Of corporal mcConihe's to do with 
the Order — is it Instrucshuns to Persons wantin' 2 Enter The order. 

6th. would you requier All Cash, or Part on Time, if It Is not 
to Mutch trouble i wish you would Rite me All About It, or Hev. mr. 
Carlisle do it. 

we are all well, an hopin' you are enjoyin' the Same Blessin, My 
wife Sez she is anxis for Me to Jine these men so i Can be Buried 

with there onors. 

Yours Ever 

SAMUEL CAROTHERS. 

p. S. — i think Cornel Smith ot 2 Feal Pi-oud at Bein the first 
grand mogul and give it 2 us Free. 

Yours, S. C. 

The above was duly received, and from the orthogra- 
phy contained therein is an evidence of intellectual 
advancement in the superlative degree, still our mission 
as an humble member of an order, recognizing onljr the 
good of humanit}^, made us feel it our duty lay as plainly 
in the direction of placing this man on the right road as 
we would the most aristocratic prince of royalty, so we 
gave him the following full information which was as 
explicit as we could well convey : 

Allegheny City, Pa., February 15th, 1879. 
Samuel Carothers, Esq., 

Break Neck, .Penn'a. 

My Dear Sir and Fellow Mortal : 

In reply to your very interesting 
letter of the loth inst. we take pleasure in saying — 

1st. Sir Lee S. Smith, for the same reason of his first election, 
that of taking the office by force, thereby teaching us the beautiful 
point of Submission, is the present Grand Mogul,- simply because we 
are unable to depose him, and Major William C. Moreland, of Pitts- 
burgh, is the Deputy Vice-Mogul. By our constitution and charter we 
are prohibited from instituting more than two councils in any one 
county. 



OF Allegheny Commandery. 365 

2d. Having no poor people in our order, it being strictly con- 
fined to the wealthy, our charges are " steep," namely, one hundred 
dollars for each degree, and three degrees in the order; that is for 
one person. When giving them to a dozen or more, we give them at 
wholesale prices, — a very liberal reduction of 25, 20, 15, 10, 5, and 
5 and 2^ per cent, extra off for cash. The first man placing in 
"Carlisle's" hands one hundred silver pieces bearing the engraving 
of the. English Buzzard, he shall be the First Grand Mogul. 

3d. You would necessarily be compelled to come down to Alle- 
gheny to receive the degrees at present ; still the three highest officers 
would not object to going up to Break Neck ten times, provided there 
was any amount of "root of all evil" in it. 

4th. In answer to this question we would simply whisper a 
kindly word of advice in your ear; go and have an hour with your 
pastor and spiritual adviser, perhaps he can tell you of the awful 
death which once upon a time befel a man named Morgan, an alleged 
member of those pagans and dark lantern heathen called Masons. 
Oh! no, we have no printed books. We can take our own life, if 
necessary, before our allotted time expires for usefulness on this mun- 
dane sphere, without sending out special invitations for some one to 
come and do it for us. 

5. The " itinerary" of Colonel McConihe is a little degree of 
"of his own ; we know nothing about it, no one can ever enter it with- 
out the Colonel's permission. However, we will give you his address ; 
perhaps you may obtain the desired information by addressing him 
personally : " Colonel S. McConihe, Camp Douglas, Salt Lake City, 
Utah." 

6th. We hardly know whether to treat this question as ignor- 
ance or insult, but through charity will treat it as the former. Our 
terms are positively and strictly cash on the spot. At any time you 
desire the committee will assemble, and will repair to your town of 
cheerful and pleasant name and institute your branch of the order. 

Oh ! my no ! it is no trouble whatever to answer a few such ques- 
tions as these, our time is not valuable at all ; all we have to do is 
' just to sit and answer such questions — only when you have an entire 
catechism to propound please ask us but one or two questions a month 
or so. Yours truly, CARLISLE. 

P. S. — Please disabuse your mind of any such expectation as 
Col. Smith coming up to give the degrees " free." 

Thank you, we are all well. Carlisle. 



366 Crusade to Europe 



We never heard another word from Mr. Carothers on 
this subject, and can onl3^ surmise some of his anti-secret 
friends seized upon him and scared the poor fellow from 
joining our ranks. 

We have as nearly as possible' in this book endeav- 
ored to follow as accurately as possible the doingS; the 
sights and dailj^ incidents of the Commandery as a 
whole, and of its members individuall}^ ; v/e are aware 
much can be found fault with, but it will at least serve 
as a slight momento of that happy pilgrimage, condensed 
as its history is, and if we have spent an hour pleasantlj' 
in your company we are fully satisfied and amply repaid. 

Wishing every member of the Crusading part}^ of 
'78, in business — all prosperity' ; in liealth — all blessings : 
in life — all joy ; in death — a calm and peaceful rest, and 
as the inveterate foe of all mankind, relentless in his 
visitations, old Father Time in his inevitable and unerr- 
ing flight, strikes one Crusader here and another there; 
as he touches one by one with his cold and fatal hand of 
death ; should he by blind and unreasoning chance pass 
us by for a little while longer, there is not one who will 
ever be forgotten by " Carlisle," and with this he bids 
you each and every one " Farewell " and " Farewell." 




^^ ^ Kn llflemoitam: ^- 



^»^ We are called upon to perform the melancholy task 
of chronicling in these pages the death of a worthy Sir 
Knight, who was numbered m ith the jDarty on the Crusade — 

OF EMILIE, BUCKS COUNTY, PA. 

On the Evening of July 1st, 1879, seated round an elegantly 
spread banquet table, celebrating the First Annual Reunion of 
the Crusaders of '78, were a large number of the Pilgrims, merrily 
chatting over the pleasant memories of the tour; at that table 
sat Jesse L. Stackhouse, Esq., who had come all the way to 
Pittsburgh that he might be present with his fellow fraters and 
companions on that occasion. Little did any of us think, as we 
sat and ate, and drank, in the midst of mirth and merriment, 
that even then the dread Angel of Death ■was hovering near. 
Little did we surmise, as we shook hands with Sir Knight 
Stackhouse, that never more would we see him here in the 
Asylum on the earth below. 

Arriving at his home on July 4th, hale and hearty as cus- 
tomary, suddenly and ruthlessly he was stricken down by the 
Dread Destroyer on July loth. Gentle as a child, with a spirit 
as meek. Sir Stackhouse was called from his work here; hav- 
ing fulfilled, indeed, his long and weary pilgrimage on earth, 
he was taken on the last, long pilgrimage of Death ; and we 
lyiow that he has simply gone with those who have gone before, 
and is peacefully at rest in the great Asylum beyond, where 
sooner or later we must all go, our lamented Sir Knight and 
Crusader only preceding to give us all the grand welcome; and 
we trust, though it is so sad to part from dear friends, we may 
only go peacefully to sleep here, to awaken in the world be- 
yond, with the glad greeting from our late worthy Sir Kiiight, 
"Pilgrim, I greet thee I" And we trust that in the great future 
Temple, not one chair will be vacant, not one face be missing; 
that there every Crusader of '78 shall meet and hold a reunion 
that shall never have an end. 

To the friends of Sir Knight Stackhouse, we extend the 
heart and hand of sympathy, in the bereavement with which 
they have been overtaken. 



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